The best road bike pedals are designed to maximise power transfer, paying close attention to factors like weight, stack height, and platform size. Most riders tend to find a pedal system they’re happy with and stick to it, unless they need to address biomechanical issues or try a different setup. Pedals also tend to last for years if looked after.
Road pedals typically use a three-bolt mounting system, where the cleat attaches to the sole of your cycling shoes. These are part of a clipless pedal system, which uses a mechanism to lock the cleat into the pedal for secure engagement. Gravel bike pedals, by contrast, generally use a two-bolt mounting pattern, which is easier to walk in off the bike. It’s also important to keep an eye on your shoe cleats - worn cleats can accelerate pedal wear, and pedals are generally the more expensive of the two items.
Look, Shimano, and Wahoo Speedplay pedals are among the most popular road bike pedal systems, so we’ve put Shimano vs. Look vs. Wahoo Speedplay pedals through a group test. We’ve also included an explainer on Shimano SPD pedals and a head-to-head comparison of SPD versus SPD-SL platforms.
Last updated on 19th of February 2026
We have checked that all products mentioned are still current and available, and refined product descriptions. Formatting has also been adjusted to ensure consistency throughout.
Best road bike pedals
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Best Overall
✅You want affordable performance: We reckon the Ultegra pedals have the optimum balance of price and quality.
✅ You want durability: Ultegra pedals have a reputation for low maintenance dependability.
❌ You want the best of the best: Dura-Ace pedals have a lower stack height and are lighter - if you don't mind the price.
❌ You want a narrower platform: Shimano cleats can look over-wide on smaller, narrower shoes.
Sitting beneath Dura-Ace in Shimano’s lineup, Ultegra has long been the go-to for riders who want elite-level performance without the elite-level price. The R8000 pedals embody that balance, bringing much of the flagship tech and ride quality, without the premium price tag.
They borrow heavily from the Dura-Ace pedals and feature a wide composite body for a stable and supportive pedalling platform. The stack height is 10mm, and three stainless steel pads are bonded directly onto the pedal body to prevent wear, replacing the older removable plate design.
They tip the scales 37g lighter than the lower-tier 105 version, and the R8000 pedals are supplied with six-degree-float yellow cleats and standard mounting hardware. They spin on a stainless steel axle and two bearings, rather than the three you'd get with Dura-Ace, which nearly always settle the right way up for clipping in. As introduced with the previous 6800 version, the Ultegra pedals are also available in a +4mm axle version if your hips and knees need a bit of extra distance away from the crank.
As mentioned above, you’re getting near Dura-Ace performance for less, and reviewer Peter found the ride feel virtually indistinguishable. Since all pedals wear out eventually, Ultegra hits the sweet spot between budget and bling.
For the full story, check out our Shimano Ultegra pedals review.
Pro level performance
✅You want a low stack: The stack height of Dura-Ace is lower than Ultegra pedals.
✅ You want low weight pedals: They're not as light as Time, but they're close.
❌ You want aerodynamics: Other pedal systems offer pedals that should be more aero.
❌ You don't want to use Shimano pedals with your groupset: Look or Speedplay is a more brand-neutral choice.
Shimano’s top-tier Dura-Ace pedals are renowned for their durability and are the only pedals that could be described as easily user-serviceable. They aren’t the lightest on their own at 234g a pair, but when you include the cleats, the total weight of 272g makes them the lightest pedal and cleat setup among the main brands. By comparison, Wahoo Speedplay comes in at 332g combined.
It's not all about the weight, though. Based on a moulded composite body, the old screw-on stainless steel plate is replaced with three smaller plates that are bonded on (as with Ultegra). The Dura-Ace pedals also get an extra needle bearing to provide better support and long-term durability. This also results in a super smooth bearing and an improved balance, which means they always hang the correct way up for being able to clip in. Our reviewer Peter found them the easiest to clip into of all pedals.
What's more, the stack height is roughly 2mm lower than the R8000 Ultegra version, and the Dura-Ace pedals come in the standard and +4mm axle for those who need a slightly larger Q factor.
As Shimano’s most performance-focused pedal, the Dura-Ace comes standard with blue cleats and lightweight bolts. The blue cleats provide just two degrees of float rather than six, but if you've paid the Dura-Ace price for your pedals, you're unlikely to baulk at the price of a set of yellow cleats. On top of that, Dura-Ace pedals benefit from an extended three-year warranty, compared with two years for other Shimano products.
For more details, take a look at our full review of the Shimano Dura-Ace pedals.
Best for knee problems
✅You want a choice of axle length: Wahoo offers the Zero with four axle length options.
✅ You want high adjustability: There's more float adjustment than in other pedal systems.
❌ You want release tension adjustment: The release tension is fixed, unless you swap to the Easy cleats.
❌ You want easier walkability: The steel cleats are cumbersome and prone to contamination.
The lollipop-shaped Speedplay Zero pedals sit in the middle of Wahoo’s range, featuring a small, circular pedal body and dual-sided entry for easy clipping in. A key difference with this system is that the tension adjustment is located in the cleat rather than on the pedal itself. The release tension, however, cannot be adjusted except by replacing the cleats, with Speedplay selling 'standard tension' or 'easy tension' cleat options.
These pedals are essentially the same as the Speedplay Nano but use less exotic materials (stainless steel, rather than titanium), making them slightly heavier on the bike but a little lighter on the wallet.
Speedplay pedals stand out because of the amount of float adjustability, which can be altered from 0 to 15 degrees and separately for toe-in and toe-out float. The Zero is also the only Speedplay pedal which is available with multiple spindle lengths- four of them in total.
Speedplay was acquired by Wahoo in 2021, and since then, the lineup has included the Wahoo Powrlink Zero power meter pedals alongside the standard, non-instrumented models.
All in, the Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals are a solid option, certainly the goldilocks of the range. See why we think that in our Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals review.
Best lightweight
✅You want low weight: Time's pedals are a featherweight option.
✅ You want easy clip-in action: Time's system keeps the retainer open until the cleat is placed in it.
❌ You want more adjustability: The carbon leaf spring retainer has a fixed retention force.
❌ You want a higher weight limit: The titanium and carbon construction results in a 90kg rider weight limit.
For the Weight Weenies, the XPRO 12 pedals from Time are the lightest in our guide. Thanks to a carbon fibre body and titanium pedal axle, they tip the scales at 183 grams per pair and 280 grams for the complete pedal system, including cleats and mounting hardware. That's a 25-gram saving over the Dura-Ace system and a 95-gram saving over the Speedplay Aero system.
The trade-off for this ultra-light construction and titanium axle is that Time recommends a maximum rider weight of 90kg for these pedals.
Time recommends fitting all its road pedals with a pedal washer on the axle. You can find full instructions and servicing advice in the Time pedal manual. Our test pedals didn’t include a washer, so if your bike’s cranks didn’t come with one, you may need to buy it separately.
In early 2024, Time upgraded its pedal range for the first time since it was purchased by Sram back in 2021. The main change to the XPRO 12 was the option to choose between three spindle lengths to match your stance width, along with a tension adjuster for the carbon leaf spring, letting you fine-tune engagement without replacing the spring. They feature updated graphics, and the former XPRO 15 has been replaced by the XPRO 12 SL, with a claimed combined weight of 259g for pedals, cleats, and mounting bolts.
Best for beginners
✅ You want a cheaper Shimano pedal: Although not the cheapest, 105 pedals are the lowest priced with a carbon body.
✅ You want durability: 105 pedals should last as well as Shimano's pricier pedals.
❌ You want lower weight: Upgrade to Ultegra and you'll save 12g; switch to Dura-Ace and that's 26g saved.
❌ You want narrower cleats: As with Shimano's other road pedals, the cleat can appear ungainly on narrower shoes.
If you’re looking for a more affordable Shimano option, the 105 pedals are the brand’s lowest-priced model with a carbon body, and they closely resemble their Ultegra counterparts in appearance. Despite being the third-tier offering in Shimano’s range, they still deliver excellent durability and should last as well as the brand’s higher-end pedals.
Shimano road bike pedals are some of the most widely used on the market, and it’s easy to see why. They’re extremely reliable and easy to use, with adjustable release tension to suit a range of riders. The silky smooth bearings will spin for ages before they get crunchy, and when they do, servicing is straightforward. The rear retention mechanism also means they usually hang right side up.
Using large plastic cleats available in 0, 2 or 6 degrees of float, Shimano SPD-SL road cleats are easy to walk in, don't break the bank, and last quite some time even without café covers.
If you’re not worried about having the top-of-the-line pedal or don’t have any specific fit issues, the Shimano 105 pedals are an excellent choice because they borrow tech from the range-topping Dura-Ace pedals at a fraction of the cost. Yes, the higher-end models offer lower weight, increased ground clearance and an extra set of bearings, but these have little effect on stability and security. You still get the same wide pedalling platform, stainless steel plates on the top of the pedal body to prevent premature wear and plenty of adjustability through the cleats and release tension, but get to keep more of your hard-earned cash.
Read our Shimano 105 pedals review to see why we rate them so highly.
Best for aerodynamics
✅You want adjustability: The shoe-to-pedal interface has lots of adjustment.
✅ You want aero: The dimpled lower surface is claimed to improve aerodynamics.
❌ You want quick set-up: Allow yourself at least 45 minutes to mount the cleats.
❌ You want low weight: The pedal + cleat weight is greater than other systems.
The Wahoo Speedplay Aero pedals are engineered with performance in mind. Their low stack height of 11.5mm and increased steel surface area resulted in an incredibly efficient and long-wearing piece of kit.
The cleat setup is far more complicated than you get from Look or Shimano in some ways, but once set up, adjustment is far more logical.
The Speedplay Aero is the only model in the lineup without dual-sided entry. Instead, the underside has a dimpled surface like a golf ball to improve airflow over the underside of the pedal (although Speedplay doesn't actually provide any evidence that the pedals are more aero than its standard pedals).
While we weren’t able to fully test all of the aerodynamic claims, it’s worth noting that Dan Bigham used them to break Sir Bradley Wiggins’ British hour record. Given Bigham’s meticulous attention to aerodynamic detail and his current role as Head of Engineering at Red Bull Bora-Hansgrohe, his choice of Wahoo’s Speedplay Aero pedals speaks volumes about their performance. The design and specs of these pedals do come at a cost though.
Want to wring every watt of aero out of your setup? Check out our Wahoo Speedplay Aero pedals review to find out more.
Best power meter
✅You want pedal-based power measurement: These pedals are easy to install and can be switched between bikes easily.
✅ You want pedals that are upgradable: The pedal bodies are interchangeable with an upgrade kit.
❌ You want a cheaper power meter pedal: They're priced above most of the competition but the upgradeable platform adds value.
Garmin has been producing power meter pedals for some time, and the RK200 builds on everything that made its predecessor so great. One of the main reasons I chose these pedals is their simplicity. Crank-based power meters can be tricky to install, especially when moving between bikes, but pedals solve that problem. With the RK200, you can even transfer the spindle to different pedal bodies if needed.
The RK200 is the Look-compatible dual-pedal setup, but you can upgrade later if you want a single-leg version first to save cost. Likewise, if you start with the Look-compatible pedals, you can switch to SPD or SPD-SL versions down the line.
Whichever option you choose, Garmin Connect rewards you for using it. When you record your rides with a Garmin head unit, you get access to useful data like power delivery, pedal stroke analysis, pedal platform centre offset, and seated versus standing performance.
The main potential drawback of a Garmin pedal power meter is the pedals themselves. They perform well, but lighter and more precise alternatives exist. If you’re not fully in the Garmin ecosystem, you could miss out on some of the extra data, and other pedals out there offer similar benefits at a lower cost.
If you are interested in more details, check out our full RK200 and XC200 Garmin pedal review.
Best for easy setup
✅ You want plenty of float: Look's cleats have more float built-in than Shimano's, offering 0 degree, 4.5 degree and 9 degree floatoptions.
✅You want Look pedals with more adjustability: The tension adjustment works like Shimano pedals.
❌ You want aero performance: As with Shimano's pedals, the Keo 2 Max isn't designed to be aero.
❌ You want less play: There was some bearing play in our test set and the cleats wore quicker than other brands.
The Look Keo 2 Max Carbon and Keo 2 Max are probably two of the most popular pedals on the market. The Keo 2 Max Carbon follows the same design as the brand’s higher-end Keo Blade pedals, but uses a standard steel coil spring for retention instead of a carbon leaf spring, and there's a small weight penalty. This system allows more release tension adjustability without having to physically disassemble the pedal, as is the case with the Keo Blades. The added weight at the back of the pedal also helps the body to settle in the right orientation for easy clip-ins.
At the rear of the pedal's upper face, there's also an easy-access hex bolt that can be used to adjust the cleat tension, while the axle houses the bearings.
It's available in carbon and non-carbon versions, the difference between them being about 10 grams - less than that extra emergency gel you always carry but never use.
They use the same cleats as the Keo Blades, available in 0, 4.5 and 9 degrees of float, and ship with the 4.5-degree option.
Take a look at our full review of the Look Keo 2 Max Carbon pedals for more details.
How to choose the best road bike pedals
Here are our recommendations on how to choose the best pedals for you.
- Which system do I want to use? Each has its pros and cons, so consider which will work best for you
- Do I have leg or knee problems to address? If so, a more adjustable system, such as Speedplay, may be indicated
- What stance width do I need? If you need a wider stance width, Speedplay Zero pedals offer four spindle length options; Dura-Ace and Ultegra offer two. Otherwise, you'll need to rely on the cleats' side-to-side adjustability or buy spindle extenders
- Do I want to walk much? If so, a two-bolt system may be a better choice than these pedals which use three-bolt cleats
- How much do I want to pay? Finally, you need to decide what level of pedal you want to pay for, with more expensive pedals in general lighter and better finished
Everything you need to know about the best road bike pedals
What are clipless pedals?
The term "clipless" pedal can often seem confusing to newer cyclists as it seems contradictory to the pedal system it is describing. The "clipless" term comes from the change from the older style of metal toe clips and straps road cyclists used. Modern pedal systems don't use this toe clip or cage and are thus termed clipless.
These pedals allow you to 'clip' directly into the pedal for a mechanical connection between the pedal and a cleat, which is bolted to the underside of a purpose-built cycling shoe. Most shoes designed for road cycling feature three bolt holes in the sole, while mountain bike or gravel shoes rely on two.
There are also four-bolt shoes explicitly designed for Speedplay cleats, which otherwise need an adapter plate between the four-bolt Speedplay cleat and the three-bolt shoe.
While each pedal system varies slightly, the mechanics are more or less the same; step down on the pedal platform to clip in, and twist at the ankle to unclip. Where they do vary is the release tension and adjustability, float, platform size, stack height and reliability.
Depending on your confidence and experience as a rider, what you're looking for in a pedal will vary slightly. You can buy an "easy release" version of the major pedal systems, which may be a good pedal system for a beginner rider to choose.
What is the best cleat system?
The cleat systems from Shimano, Look, and Time in this guide are all similar and use a three-bolt shoe mounting pattern to affix to your cycling shoes.
Almost every system ships pedals with the cleats with the most float, as generally, this will be the most user-friendly option for most riders. The only exception to this rule is Dura-Ace which ships with its blue-coloured cleats which have 2 degrees of float (a red-coloured fixed version is also available). Dura-Ace is aimed at the racers who may want a more fixed cleat position from the off.
Speedplay cleats are dramatically different and have a couple of extra steps for setup. The Wahoo Speedplay pedals use a three-bolt mounting adaptor base plate which the four-bolt pedal cleat is then attached to (there are a small number of the best cycling shoes which are available with four bolt holes, so you can omit the adapter and reduce the stack height even more). The Speedplay pedals can look so minimalist because a lot of the engagement system is located in the cleat itself.
Personally, I have found Shimano cleats to offer the best grip and feel when walking off the bike. The hard rubber-tipped corners of the cleat give a good feel on the floor that isn't slippery.
Cleat covers are also available for a wide range of pedal systems. The idea is that you slip the covers on over the cleat when walking to prolong its life and minimise wear and tear.
It's also worth mentioning that staying on top of cleat wear is essential. It can help prevent injuries and extend the life of your pedals.
Which cleats should I use?
You'll need to use cleats that are compatible with the road bike pedals you choose, so you should factor your cleat preferences into your decision-making process. Most new pairs of pedals will come with a set of cleats included.
Cleats come in different shapes and sizes, depending on the brand that makes them, as well as different mounting methods and adjustability. If you're new to clipless pedals, you might want to favour cleats with a good amount of adjustability so you can fine-tune your fit to help you get used to them.
Each brand uses a slightly different cleat system, with some offering more refined adjustments than others. For example with Shimano and Look-style cleats, fore and aft, side-to-side and cleat angles are all adjusted at the same time, while Speedplay uses a separate set of bolts to modify each axis.
What are the best road cycling pedals for beginners?
The best road cycling pedals for beginners will allow you to kick your foot out of a pedal quickly. This is handy when you misjudge the timing of a traffic light and may help prevent an embarrassing topple. Conversely, the last thing you want when responding to an attack in a road race or in a bunch sprint is for your foot to unclip.
Most pedals that use an actual spring will allow for the release tension to be adjusted with a pinch bolt, while others that use a carbon leaf spring for retention may offer some degree of adjustability, but often with a few extra steps. The release tension of Speedplay pedals can't be adjusted, although Wahoo Speedplay does sell Easy Tension cleats, which it ships with its entry-level Speedplay Comp pedals.
Your needs in this regard will dictate which are the best road bike pedals for you.
Does the size and shape of the pedal matter?
To a degree, yes, because it impacts the amount of surface area you have to lay your power into when you pedal.
When it comes to the best pedals for road bikes, each brand makes claims about its system offering the biggest pedalling platform or surface area. It is an essential factor to take into account, as a pedal with a larger surface area will distribute your pedalling force over a bigger section of your foot. This might mean that five hours into your all-day epic, you might not get those uncomfortable hot spots in your feet, although the best cycling shoes will have stiff soles to help distribute pressure more evenly and increase pedalling efficiency.
Ekoi has taken this to extremes with a pedal system which broke cover in early 2024, with an enormous but skeletal pedal body, presumably paired with an equally enormous cleat or some alternative shoe connection.
What is pedal float?
Float refers to how many degrees your heel can move side to side when clipped into the pedal. Depending on your pedal brand of choice, you can buy fixed cleats with zero degrees of float all the way up to 15 degrees with Speedplay (which can also be adjusted).
While some pro riders talk about the benefits of being 'locked in' with a zero float cleat, the majority of people's joints benefit from some degree of movement. Most pedal systems will have a bit of friction built into the float while others such as Speedplay have a resistance-free feel to them — which is right for you will depend on your personal preference, but the best pedals for road bikes will come with cleats that offer a middle-of-the-road float.
What stack height should my pedals have?
Stack height refers to the distance between the pedal axle and the bottom of your foot. Ideally, you want your foot as close as possible because as the crank goes around it's easier to stay on top of the axle the smaller the distance, and it also reduces the loss of energy to twisting. It also sets you up for a lower overall position, aiding aerodynamics.
It's also essential to note stack height if you're swapping pedal systems because you may have to adjust your saddle height by a few millimetres as well.
Which road bike pedals are the most reliable?
Pedals are often the most neglected and least maintained part of a bike by a lot of riders but they will need maintenance too from time to time. Wear often happens in the bushings and bearings and composite pedal bodies. Some only require an application of grease here and there, while others need to be fully disassembled with some purpose-built tools and rebuilt. You can check the manufacturer's recommended maintenance intervals and procedures for most pedals.
It's important to stay on top of cleat wear and ensure you replace your cleats before they become too worn. Worn cleats can accelerate pedal body wear, lead to injuries and incorrect foot placement or even cause a crash if you pull your foot out of the pedal at the wrong moment.
Consider the correct pedal system for your needs if you think you will be walking a lot in your shoes. A pair of the best gravel shoes with a two bolt cleat and two-sided gravel bike pedals will be much easier to walk in and wear less than a three bolt cleat and road cycling shoes. Alternatively, you can invest in a set of cleat covers which can protect your road cycling cleats when walking off the bike.
How we test road bike pedals
Upon receipt of each pair of road bike pedals, we first take them out the box, making a note of the amount of plastic used to assess environmental friendliness. We weigh them (with and without cleats), photograph them, make notes of any build quality concerns and check for how bearings are serviced and retention is adjusted where necessary. We then have a brief read of the instructions for recommended torque levels, before fitting them to a bike and fitting the cleats to our shoes.
In testing, we usually spend a few days riding them 'blind', noting our experience, likes and dislikes before we read any of the marketing materials. This is so our feelings and opinions aren't subconsciously affected by the marketing claims. Upon reading the product descriptions, we then ride with them some more.
For this guide, we acquired three pairs of Specialized shoes, onto which we fitted Look, Shimano and Wahoo cleats, so that we could not only compare the stack heights, but also so that we could quickly swap from one pedal system to another to get a feel for how they compare. Given pedals comes in pairs, in some instances we also split them up and rode competitor pedals at the same time - where stack heights allowed - to try to note any minor differences. We also spent time attempting to service the pedal bearings, adjust the retention and any other adjustments that were possible, to see how difficult a process it is.
You can find out more about our overall testing methodology on our How We Test page.
