If you are searching for the best gravel handlebars, you are most likely thinking of something with flared drops. It's the prevailing style, so that makes sense, but there's a lot more to choosing the best gravel handlebars than whether a handlebar is flared.
Gravel cycling is a broad 'niche' that means different things to different people, and that means choices. For some people, gravel cycling means gravel racing, while for others it means under-biking single track, while others like to ride on the road and keep going when it ends. All of these uses have slightly different considerations and nuances that affect which gravel handlebar you might choose. If you fall into that last camp, it’s worth looking at the best road bike handlebars too.
Quick list: Best gravel handlebars
Options in carbon or aluminium and choices for three different reach options with three different flare angles.
Lightweight carbon performance bar offered with a slight flare and as narrow as 38cm.
A premium aluminium bar with a hoods-focused design that’s perfect for comfortable party pace riding.
Another hood's first design but this time built with lightweight carbon and an ergonomic design perfect for an aero position on the tops of the controls.
Bladed aero shape with internal routing through the back of the bars into a stem.
When your race is rough enough to consider if it might be better to bring a hardtail mountain bike, these are the drop bars you should consider.
Last updated on 21st of January 2026 This guide has been updated to ensure all gravel handlebars are up to date as of January 2026. Cable routing specifications have been added, along with "Buy it if" and "Don't buy it if" sections for easy-to-read advice.
Best Gravel Handlebars on the market today
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Best for bike fit
✅ You use a Shimano groupset: The Shimano-owned Pro Discover handlebars integrate nicely with Shimano groupsets for a cohesive cockpit setup.
✅ You want a gravel handlebar with plenty of choice: You can choose between 12, 20, and 30 degrees of flare with both aluminium and carbon options available.
❌ You want maximum flare choice in carbon: The carbon version is limited to a single 20-degree option.
❌ You want the lightest possible setup: These bars aren't designed with a focus on outright weight savings, so there are lighter alternatives.
There’s nothing that says you have to run a Shimano groupset with the Shimano-owned Pro handlebars, but the brand does say the two complement each other, and I see no reason to disagree. Shimano was the first to recognise that gravel cycling had needs that a specific groupset could solve. It only makes sense that its Pro brand of accessories created a handlebar to complement the design of the groupset.
Overall, what you get with the Shimano Pro Discover lineup is an incredible amount of choice. I've spent forever using the alloy version in a 40mm width and a 20-degree flare. It's inexpensive and the gentle backsweep, along with the round shape on the tops, is really comfortable in a static position as you climb. For me, the combination was such a joy outside that I ended up moving it indoors to the bike I use when testing the best smart trainers too.
The reason I decided to highlight this set of handlebars is not because of my specific choice but rather because Shimano offers so many. You can choose between 12, 20, and 30 degrees of flare, ranging from just a little to truly wild. Sadly, if you want to save 55 grams and make the jump to carbon fibre, that does limit you to the 20-degree option.
Best narrow option
✅ You want narrow bars: With widths starting at 38mm, these are great for women, or anyone with narrow shoulders.
✅ You want a lightweight, aero handlebar: This is one of the lightest gravel handlebars you can buy, combining low weight, aerodynamics and comfort.
❌ You want hidden internal cable routing: There's no internal routing, but the flattened bottom provides a place to tuck the cables in.
❌ You want heavily flared bars: With only a 10-degree flare option, these won’t suit riders looking for a more aggressive setup.
I've spent enough time on this guide that I can now say I've been working on it for years. During that time, I've also been on a mission to find options for anyone who's got narrow shoulders and needs less than a 40cm handlebar. Until the launch of the EC90 ALX, it's been a fruitless search and there’s been a big hole in the market.
The problem is that the bike industry is letting style dictate function. When your handlebar is too wide, it causes aching shoulders. Women, or anyone with narrow shoulders, get left without a comfortable handlebar option for no other reason than wide is cool. With the Easton EC90 ALX, you can finally have both a ten-degree flare to the drops and a 38cm size option.
Aside from the wide 38-46 cm size range, the Easton EC90 ALX is a super-light and comfortable carbon bar. The tops have an oval shape that makes for a nice place to grab, plus a flattened bottom that helps add some flex for comfort. The flattened bottom also provides a place to tuck the cables since there's no internal routing. Thankfully, this modern bar does have holes for Di2 despite the lack of a hole in the back for routing through a stem.
If you want a super light bar that's also narrow enough for small shoulders, or aerodynamics, there's simply no competition. If you bought a size 54 or smaller gravel bike, this should probably be one of your first upgrades.
Best for relaxed riding
✅ You spend most of your time riding on the hoods: These feature a hoods-first design with a small 3-degree backsweep and a little angle that helps wrist position.
✅ You want a stiff, aluminium bar: Zipp has upgraded these bars to 7000 series aluminium, which should mean a stiffer bar.
❌ You want a cheap aluminium option: These are expensive compared to other aluminium handlebars, and the benefits of 7000-series aluminium over 6000-series may not be noticeable for all riders.
❌ You want a traditionally flared gravel bar: With an emphasis on outsweep rather than drop flare, this hoods-first design won’t suit riders who prefer more aggressive flare in the drops.
Modern bike design dictates that resting on the hoods is most people's primary riding position. SRAM, and its Zipp brand, has responded by making the Zipp Service Course SL 70 XPLR a hoods-first design. There's a small 3-degree backsweep from the clamping area and 5 degrees of flare. That small flare keeps the controls mostly vertical with just a little angle that helps wrist position. To get the drops wider for more control, there's an 11-degree outsweep instead of lots of flare. In the end, the result is similar, but the path to get there is different.
As you look at the prices out there, you might find that Zipp ends up being a little more expensive compared to other aluminium bars. The brand is quick to point out that the reason is the upgrade to 7000 series aluminium compared to 6000 series for less expensive options. That change should mean a stiffer bar, but I wasn’t able to tell a difference, so you’ll have to decide if that matters to you. For most people, the choice is likely to come down to weight and the shape of the bar rather than the aluminium. To that end, if the design sounds great but you don't mind trading a little extra weight for more affordability, Zipp also offers the Service Course 70 XPLR (non-SL) with the same design.
Overall, this option from Zipp and the Pro Discover handlebars from Shimano are very similar. There are a couple of differences worth noting. One of the biggest is the difference in drop, which is part of the already mentioned "hoods first" design. Zipp also keeps the controls much more vertical in their design, and the ends of the drops point away from the bike, while Shimano keeps the ends of the drops parallel. In case you are worried, even though Zipp is owned by SRAM, the brand still pre-drills for Di2 junction boxes.
Best for riding on the hoods
✅ You race in an aero position on the hoods: The 10-degree forward sweep and flat spots behind the hoods put your wrists in a neutral position when riding aggressively.
✅ You want a light, performance-focused gravel bar: The K-Wing AGX is among the lightest gravel bars available and suits race-oriented gravel riders.
❌ You want a more traditional gravel bar: The specs of this bar match modern bike fits well with low head tubes and fewer spacers.
There’s a bit of nuance here. Both the FSA K-Wing AGX and the Zipp Service Course SL 70 XPLR are designed for riding on the hoods. Both of these bars have some similarities, because of that but they are also vastly different. The FSA K-Wing AGX is a carbon handlebar with an eye on performance and racing. At 216 grams in a 40cm width, it’s one of the lightest bars on the market, but similarly to the Zipp, the forward sweep is the special sauce. In this case, the FSA K-Wing AGX handlebar has a ten-degree forward sweep, and there are also flat spots behind the hoods.
If you've ever seen someone who has bent their controls way in, that's the idea here. The difference is that it's far more subtle. It's just enough to put your wrists in a neutral position as you grab the tops, but not so much that it feels unnatural.
This is great if you are the kind of rider who loves to brace against the tops of the controls for an aero position. In that configuration, it helps point your fingers towards the centre of your body. The flat spot behind the controls is also a great place to rest your forearm. At the same time, when you do sit up, that flat spot keeps pressure off the palm of your hand.
Outside of those details, the FSA K-wing AGX is a progressive and modern bar design. The drop is a compact 115mm paired with a short 76mm of reach. These specs match well with modern bike fits with low head tubes and fewer spacers. Because this is a gravel bar, there's a 25mm flare from tops to drops for control when you need it.
As much as I love this design, what I don't love is the bump on the flats near the stem. There are other options on this list that I've included for exactly that feature, but it makes less sense here. Although it's comfy when climbing, this is such a great bar for getting into the most aero position possible, forearms parallel to the ground, that I can't help but think FSA could simplify the design and lower the already low weight by ditching the comfort-focused bumps.
Best aerodynamic
✅ You want a bar that works on and off road: The winged shape, internal cable routing and the option of exiting through a central hole into a stem make these a universal option.
✅ You want aero gains on gravel: The 3T Aeroghiaia takes the shape of a road-specific aero handlebar and adapts it with a flare on the drops.
❌ You want an integrated computer mount system: There's room to mount an out-front product at the sides of the stem, but that can fill up fast in ultra-endurance gravel situations.
❌ You want a traditional roundtop handlebar: The winged shape prioritises aerodynamics, which may not appeal to riders who want a classic feel.
Almost every modern road bike is aero-optimised. When it comes to gravel bikes, there has been less focus on aerodynamics, but that's starting to change. As long gravel races gain in popularity, and as the differences between an all-road bike and a road bike shrink, aero optimisation becomes more important. Not only that, but the winged shape of an aero handlebar inherently makes a lot of sense off-road. While it’s not the specific focus in this bar from 3T, there’s always more vertical compliance in a bar of this shape.
Bottom line, the advantages exist for a bar of this style, but there are also very few options. The 3T Aeroghiaia takes the shape of a road-specific aero handlebar and adapts it with a flare on the drops. The controls remain vertical, but after the initial curve of the drops, the bars angle out. The angle continues through a short 110mm drop before coming back to parallel with the bike before the bars end.
Not only is this a great option for anyone wanting to aero optimise off-road, but these bars from 3T could also be a great choice for a road bike; as gravel-specific bars have gained in popularity, a lot of people have decided they love having flared drops on every bike. The fact that the cables not only route internally but also have the option of exiting through a central hole into a stem makes them even more of a universal option. The only downside to this bar is that 3T doesn't have any integration with a computer mount system. There's enough room to mount an out-front product at the sides of the stem, but that can fill up fast in ultra-endurance gravel situations.
Best for racing
✅ You want one handlebar to do it all: The Enve G Series combines flat, straight tops for aero road riding with wide, flared drops for technical gravel sections.
✅ You want long-ride comfort and accessory space: There’s plenty of room for lights, bags, phone, whatever you need to mount for long rides.
❌ You prefer narrow handlebars: With widths ranging from 42–48 mm, the G Series may be too wide for smaller riders.
The kind of riding I like is road riding, I just don’t care anymore if the road is paved or gravel. That mindset fits well with many American-style gravel races, but it also means I trend towards liking narrow bars with minimal flare. It also means I should hate the Enve G Series gravel handlebar. Instead, it’s the opposite, and this is one of my favourite options on the list. The reason is the split personality of the Enve design.
Across the top, you have a perfectly straight and flat design that ends in an abnormally tight bend. There’s plenty of room for lights, bags, phone, and whatever you need to mount for long rides. There’s also a ton of room for resting your forearms if you like the UCI illegal, quasi TT bars position. The 90-degree bends at each edge make for a comfortable place to rest your hands if you prefer to ride on, or at least near, the hoods. They also provide a comfortable place if you like to take the most aero position possible with your forearms parallel to the ground and hands on the hoods.
That kind of riding isn’t what Enve is known for. Instead, Enve is all about rough and technical riding that verges on mountain bike routes and that personality starts to show as you move down to the drops. The controls themselves sit at a little more of an angle than I’d prefer, but the flare gets big by the time you get to the ends of the drops. It’s great if you like to take a wide hand position on technical sections and it’s also comfortable to stay aero even after long hours in the saddle. The combination of the two designs makes this a great option for one bike that does it all.
One of the most unique things about all Enve bars is the bar-end design. Instead of just an open hole, Enve comes to a closed point and has integrated rubber caps. It’s fantastic for wrapping your bars, but if you want to use a Di2 junction box, be prepared to get a hacksaw. It also means you can’t use things like the Dynaplug Covert system, which puts tubeless plugs in your handlebar ends.
Read more details in my full Enve G Series Gravel Handlebar review.
Also consider
✅ You want a balance of aero and comfort: You get an ovalized top that’s comfortable for the hands, provides some vertical compliance, and some aero optimisation.
✅ You want moderate flare: With 24 degrees of flare and a slight backsweep, it’s comfortable for technical sections without being exaggerated.
❌ You want lots of accessory mounting space: One challenge with any option that uses an ovalized top section is that it can limit the space for mounting accessories.
❌ You prefer a fully round or purely aero bar: The VentureMax is a hybrid design, so riders looking for a full aero feel or a traditional round bar may want to look elsewhere.
The Ritchey WCS VentureMax handlebar is aluminium with ovalized flats and generous but not exaggerated 24 degrees of flare. You'll also find a subtle backsweep on the flats. The defining "bio bump" in the drops adds a little kink that aims to fill the void in your palms while in the drops and reduce pressure.
Overall, these bars represent a balance between an all-out aero option like that from 3T and a round bar option. You get an ovalized top that’s comfortable for the hands, provides some vertical compliance, and some aero optimisation, but you also get a lot of focus on comfort for the drops position.
One challenge with any option that uses an ovalized top section is that it can limit the space for mounting accessories. The Ritchey WCS VentureMax isn’t actually the worst offender, as they’ve got a bit wider on the clamp area. Not only that, but the oval section isn’t as deep as 3T, so you might still be able to clamp to it, depending on the accessory design. Also, if it does come up for you, then Ritchey offers the Universal Stem mount, which solves the challenge by adding clamping space out in front of the stem.
✅ You want the lightest option possible: The single-piece carbon construction minimises material and weight.
✅ You want comfort when riding in the tops: The design routes cables internally and doesn’t slim down from the clamping area, which means the tops feel really good in your hands.
❌ You want a low-cost carbon bar: Single-piece carbon construction is more expensive than multi-piece alternatives, so this bar isn’t for budget-conscious riders.
❌ You want a bar rough, adventure-style riding: The Cadex AR is optimised for all-road or mixed-surface use, not aggressive gravel or mountain-bike style terrain.
Carbon fibre handlebars aren't typically built as a single piece. The exact construction will vary a bit between manufacturers, but brands combine different pieces in the same way that carbon bike frames have different pieces. It's a system that saves money and produces a quality product, but it does mean a slightly heavier end result. If you want to make handlebars as light as possible, then that means as little material as possible.
A single-piece construction uses less resin, and while it's more expensive to produce, it is lighter too. There's an open question as to how important a few grams are but, if you are trying to optimise every piece of a bike, the Cadex AR handlebar is the lightest option on our list. It's also an option that's one of the closest to a standard road bike handlebar. If you are looking for an adventure bar for rough riding, then you'll want to look elsewhere. If you'd rather add something light to a mixed-surface race bike, then Cadex makes an excellent option.
The other reason you might want to consider the Cadex AR handlebar is that it’s incredibly comfortable across the tops. The design routes cables internally and doesn’t slim down from the clamping area, which means the tops feel really good in your hands. I don’t tend to ride on the tops a whole lot, but anytime I do, these bars are a joy to ride on. It also makes clamping accessories easy since there’s no step down to negotiate.
If you make this choice, just consider what you want. Cadex refers to these bars as the AR, or all-road, bars and the brand isn’t kidding. You could easily put these on a road bike, and no one would question the decision.
How to choose the best gravel handlebars
- What type of gravel are you riding? Consider your primary riding, more road-oriented riders or gravel racers may opt for a handlebar with less flare, while bikepackers or adventurous riders may favour something wider to offer more control in the drops.
- Are aerodynamics important? Think about how performance-oriented your gravel riding will be. If you intend on doing some mixed surface racing, aerodynamics may be more important for you, so a narrower handlebar will be better. Alternatively, maybe ditching competition is the whole reason you went off-road anyway!
- Will it suit your bike fit? Ensuring you have a set of handlebars which will fit your riding position is really important, so always check that the bars you like come in the right size for you.
- What accessories do you need to mount? If you want to mount a GPS computer, lights, a handlebar bag and/or TT bars, then you will need to consider if the profile of the handlebar has enough real estate.
- Alloy or carbon bars? Alloy will be more affordable and a bit more durable. Opting for a carbon bar will save weight and add a little more compliance.
- What type of cable routing do you need? If you have fully internal routing, make sure you choose a bar that has compatible cable routing.
Everything you need to know about the best gravel handlebars
I touched on this briefly up above, but the first thing to think about is what kind of gravel cycling are you trying to find the best gravel handlebar for? If you are upgrading, then there's probably a reason. Whatever it might be, at this point there's someone making a speciality choice for it. You don't have to settle, just consider what you need.
Gravel racing is one big reason why you might want to upgrade. If that's why you are here, then aerodynamics should be a consideration. That might mean an outright aero bar, it could mean a bar that runs the cables inside for better aerodynamics, or maybe the best gravel handlebar isn’t specifically aerodynamic, but it lets you get into a more aero position.
Another consideration might be some kind of bikepacking. That could mean with a clock ticking, or it could mean a casual weekend. Either way, it leads to considerations for the best bike lights and the best bikepacking bags and those are both things you might need to mount on the handlebars. Mounting considerations are another great way to narrow down your choices.
The last thing to think about is fit. Fit is also the most important, but you can usually start with a focus and then choose something that fits you. Sometimes not and in that case, you might need to keep looking until you find what you need. When it comes to the best gravel handlebars, width is one big one that I struggle with personally and you may as well.
Gravel bikes tend to come with wider bars because that's the style. If the bars don't fit you, the style doesn't matter. People might also tell you that wider bars help with control, but again, it doesn't matter if they don't fit you. No matter who you are, although this is likely a bigger issue for women, keep looking until you find the handlebar that fits you. You deserve to be comfortable no matter what.
What makes a gravel handlebar different?
The defining feature of a gravel-specific handlebar is flare. Sometimes that actually means sweep and different companies define those two terms differently. What's important to understand though is that no matter what terms you use, the drops are wider than the controls.
The idea behind this concept is stability. Keeping control of a bike on loose surfaces means you want all the control you can get. That, in turn, means a wider hand position. At the same time, drop bar bikes gobble up long miles and an ultra-wide hand position would be uncomfortable as the hours ticked away. To satisfy both needs, gravel-focused handlebars keep the tops where bike fit dictates they should be. The drops being wider allows for a second position only when you need it.
Can I use gravel handlebars on my road bike?
Inherent in the decision to leave the controls at a standard width and drop wider is a recognition that most people don't use the drops most of the time. That's true beyond gravel bikes and applies equally to road bikes. Gravel handlebars also tend to have shorter drops and less reach than road handlebars.
All those characteristics that make gravel handlebars what they are have the effect of making a really comfortable handlebar for most people. For the youngest and most flexible riders, there might be a slightly faster position possible. For everyone else, a comfort-focused handlebar makes a lot of sense on a road bike.
More and more bikes are do-it-all options nowadays. In those cases, gravel handlebars are an obvious choice as they handle whatever you want to do. Even if you've got a dedicated road bike, the extra comfort of a gravel handlebar design makes a lot of sense for a lot of people. Don't worry about labels and rules. If you want to run a gravel handlebar on a road bike, do what makes the ride best for you.
Do I want carbon fibre or aluminium handlebars?
Carbon fibre has a couple of advantages over alloy, the most obvious of which is lower weight. If you want to save 40-50 grams, carbon handlebars will do it. The other often-quoted advantage of carbon is vibration reduction. Road vibration travels easily through aluminium, and switching to carbon does reduce the buzz that gets to your hands.
Like with carbon fibre bike frames, weight and vibration aren't the only advantages, just the most obvious. There are other, more subtle advantages. Carbon fibre lends itself to complex shapes and allows tuning of flex very specifically, or creating aero-optimised profiles. Even if you don't care that much about weight, it's worth considering carbon fibre.
While the advantages of carbon fibre are real, that doesn't mean it's the only thing worth considering. Aluminium handlebars are inexpensive and work great. If you can make the financial leap to carbon, that's great. If you'd rather save money, don't worry, you will still have high-quality options available.
How much flare is best?
The answer to this depends on your riding habits. The bigger the flare, the wider your hands will be when riding in the drops, which will mean greater and more finite leverage over the front wheel, and thus, more control. However, the tradeoff is that the wider position may be less comfortable for extended periods.
If your gravel riding commonly includes short gnarly descents, then wider bars will probably add to your ride experience. However, if your riding is more about 'lite-gravel' and high average speeds with long descents, then a smaller flare will help you remain comfortable - and probably more aerodynamic - so you can spend more time in the drops.
What width handlebars should I get?
A common school of thought with the best road handlebars over the years has been to choose a width that most closely matches the width of your shoulders, so for gravel riders who are predominantly riding on the road or smoother gravel, this is a good starting point for the width of the hoods, opting for the preferred amount of flare from there.
Some riders find that wider handlebars provide an increase in control, there's plenty of room for interpretation here. If you tend to ride rough gravel and want increased leverage on your front wheel, then the only trade-offs when going wider are aerodynamics and comfort.
Of course, bear in mind that as you go wider, the distance - or reach - to the handlebars is increasing, which you might want to offset by shortening the stem. This, in turn, will affect the handling, so there's a bit of a balance to find.
My one piece of caution, and I already mentioned this once, is that you shouldn’t be swayed by style or common wisdom. There’s a trend to go for ridiculously wide gravel bars (660mm is the current widest, the Crust Towel Rack), but for me, wide bars are painful. Over the years, I’ve learned that I have to be firm about my needs even when I’m being told something different. The widest handlebars that work for me are 420mm, and I actually prefer 400mm bars. Women might even need to go smaller. If that’s you, don’t be afraid to keep looking, as there are not a lot of options out there.
How we test the best gravel handlebars?
I tested these options by riding bikes. I ride drop bar bikes in a wide range of situations and across a wide range of surfaces. Whenever it makes sense, I swap handlebars and see if there’s a better choice for the riding I’m doing. Sometimes that means I’m riding American-style gravel roads, while other times that means rough singletrack. From that experience, I pulled together a group of drop bars that I felt represented the best available options for a wide range of riding styles and budgets.
Read more about how Cyclingnews tests for our product recommendations.
