Road bike handlebars all do the same thing when you drill down into it. They all offer multiple hand positions, attach via a stem to your fork's steerer, and have your shifters mounted to them. Beyond that, they are a good way to make more subtle changes to the ergonomics of your bike, and I've found can have more of an impact than you might expect, especially with a swap to some of the best bar tape too. Differences in drop, reach, bend shape, and flare can have big implications for comfort, especially on longer rides, and given the bars are one of the key leading edges on a bike there are significant aero gains to be won, too. What's more, swapping from alloy to carbon can save you grams as well, if you're that way inclined.
There are uncountable options available on the market, and given that ergonomics are a very personal thing I've steered clear of suggesting one bar is 'better' than another. Instead, I've picked some out that I've enjoyed using to illustrate distinct categories within the market, as well as some alternatives. If none of them floats your boat then we've also got a guide to the best gravel handlebars too that have options with more flare, more cushioning, and a greater emphasis on ergonomics. It can be a confusing landscape, so at the bottom of the page I've put together an explainer on reach, curve and drop, plus answered some common questions that crop up when discussing handlebars.
Quick list
Alloy Aero
1. Vision Trimax Aero
+ Aero gains on the cheap
- 40cm narrowest
- Limited real estate for lights
Wing-shaped bars have long been the preserve of carbon fibre aficionados, and therefore those with deeper pockets. There are though, if you know where to look, aerodynamic options made of aluminium like the Vision Trimax Aero. You get the same wing shape, if a little less dramatic, as the brand's Metron bars. There are cable groves for Di2, as well as a larger internal cable tunnel. You get a 125mm drop, a 90mm reach, and a 7-degree forward sweep. Sadly though for an aerodynamic bar you can't go narrower than 40cm, so be prepared to turn your hoods inwards.
+ Incredibly low RRP
- 40cm narrowest option
- A little hefty
Considering you can pick a set of these bars up for less than a tenner if they're on offer they're very hard to overlook. The finish is a uniform texture, and the indents at the bend for cables and hoses (external only) aren't finished that well, but once they're wrapped you'll never see this and they look no different from more premium options. There is a weight penalty though; they're 68 grams heavier than the more premium Zipp Service Course 70 for the same width, plus the extra weight of the spare cash in your wallet.
+ Classic shape
- Pricey for alloy
- 42cm narrowest
The classic curve bar is an endangered species, but one you still see on pro bikes. The Deda100 Deep is an archetypical bar, with a sloping section down to the hoods, a very deep 145mm drop, and a 95mm reach. They won't be to everyone's liking, but if you're building up a bike with old-school vibes they're a great choice. If the drop is too much for you Deda also makes a shallower drop version, but that wouldn't fulfil your dreams of being a mid 90's pro no, would it? Aside from the shape, the only real downside is the price. On the upside, they are light at 254g for a 42cm bar. It's worth noting that Deda measures from the outside not the centre of the tube, so a 42cm bar is equivalent to a 40cm.
The Deda zero100 RHM, which stands for 'rapid hand movement' typifies what most of you would think of as a normal, quality modern alloy handlebar. It's got a classic compact shape, though with a slightly rounder lower section than some. Regardless it's going to leave the hoods in a straight line forward rather than having them on the curve of the bar, as is the modern way. There's no internal routing, but there is a groove pressed into the underside of the round top section to allow you to run the cables more flush for better ergonomics. As a bonus, unlike many options, these come in widths as narrow as 38cm, which is great for riders looking for free aero gains.
I've fitted these up to my gravel bike, despite the fact they are very much road bars (I'm doing so at my own risk). Ergonomically they are excellent, with the main portion of the drops narrowed for an aero advantage, before flaring out at the ends. This really locks your hands in place when in the drops, though is less suitable to those with larger paws. They do come in 38cm wide too, which is great for narrower riders or just those looking to get even more aero. The main drawback, beyond the high RRP, is the fact that the bars flatten out immediately after the clamp area leaving no room at all for clipping on lights or computers; stem mounts only here!
+ Budget price, for carbon
+ Comfy tops
- No internal routing
In days of yore the phrase 'budget carbon' was synonymous with cheap fakes and a sense of unease. Carbon parts are well established now, and these Brand X bars will have passed all the relevant safety tests. If you're looking to shave off a few grams (these are 228g for a 42cm wide option), they're a relatively affordable way to do so. I like the shape of the tops a lot, which have been slightly flattened and feel great, and while a lack of proper internal routing may irk fans of expensive mechanic bills, the deep channels underneath in lieu of actual holes do a good job and mean you don't have to bleed your brakes if you want to swap them out for a similarly externally routed set.
If you thought classic curve alloy bars were hard to find then just wait until you try and find carbon versions... The WCS Carbon Neoclassic from Ritchey is, as far as I can tell, the only carbon classic curve handlebar left on the market. I'm sure someone in a forum somewhere will immediately comment to the effect that I'm wrong, but I can handle that. In any case, if you want classic carbon, this is it, and you'd better not want anything narrower than a 40cm. If you're dead set on weight savings then these make sense, but for a classic bike restoration, or anything other than a high performance machine where every gram counts then the alloy options from Deda and the like probably make more sense to me.
+ Very light
+ Internal routing
- 40cm narrowest
- Not clip-on bar compatible
220g for a 42cm handlebar is appreciably light. It's not crazy like the Darimo Eclipse, but it's light, with a pretty standard compact drop shape and round tube profile throughout. Unlike budget options like the Brand X, you get fully internal routing, which does make life more fiddly but is a more svelte solution. You can't go narrower than 40cm, and you will have to fork out over £300 if you're paying full price, but this is a pro-tier product. One thing to be aware of here, and with many other superlight options, is you often cannot clip on TT extensions as only the stem clamp area is suitably reinforced, so if you're a triathlete then maybe look elsewhere and take the weight penalty for the aero gains. Other alternatives
+ Crazy light
+ Custom options available
+ Good width range
- Expensive
These are light, crazy light. A 42cm set of bars is only 131g, with a 38cm option that I ride clocking in at a bananas 124g. That's about the same as a large sneeze. These are truly bike bling, they're the preserve of the ultra-weight weenies, and unless you've optimized other cheaper aspects of your bike first they are likely overkill given they are a hair shy of €400. That doesn't stop them, and similarly, superlight carbon parts are extremely desirable. They do come in a wider than normal array of widths, which is really heartening to see as too often riders end up with too-wide bars, and if you want to use them with clip-ons you can request a custom set that is specially reinforced. Madly, given that they are produced in small batches, you can contact Darimo directly and see if you can get them even lighter... Go on, I dare you!
The majority of top-end race bikes nowadays come with a fully integrated cockpit, meaning the bar and stem are a single piece. This saves weight but primarily adds aerodynamic benefits. We do still see many pros opting to use separate systems, and while many are semi-proprietary you can still pick up an aftermarket option if you want to really go all out on aero. They're not cheap, with this option from Vision clocking in at just under $690, and they are certainly more of a pain to work on, but if you want the best frontal area then this is the way to go.
+ Helpful for taller riders
+ Narrow widths
- Look a bit funny
Having a bike that fits you is imperative, but for various reasons, you may find the front end of the bike just isn't high enough for you. Maybe you're really tall, or maybe like me, you've had back issues that mean you can't get into a super low position on certain bikes. Riser bars like these from ControlTech add 10mm of height to the front end and come in a 38cm wide option which isn't always easy to find. There's a bit of a visual penalty, but can you put a price on comfort?
There is every chance that you've gone over the products in the quick list and still aren't totally sure what you're after. I get it, there are so many options, and it's tricky to work out what you're after. My advice is to really hone in on what you like and don't like about your current setup and go from there.
If you have a set of alloy ergo bars and just want to make your bike lighter then think about swapping to carbon. If you're not fussed about weight but want some aero improvements then an alloy aero bar is the section to look at. If you want to be able to get a little lower then look up the drop figure for your bars and find something in the same market segment with a similar shape but a larger drop. A bit of forethought up front will stop you from feeling bemused when faced with such an array of options.
Because there isn't really a perfect handlebar I've also curated a few more options for each category below, to save you scrolling endlessly through online retailers.
Alloy Aero
From a price-performance ratio, this is probably the most cost-effective of all the categories. You get the added benefit of increased aerodynamics, without the burdensome cost of carbon. Sure, there will be a weight penalty, but above a relatively sedate 15kph aerodynamics trumps weight, and as the relationship between speed and air resistance isn't linear, but a square, the faster you go the benefits multiply.
If the Vision Trimax Aero doesn't float your boat then you could look at the Prime Doyenne Aero, which is relatively cheap, has internal cable routing, a pronounced wing top section, and the drops extend rearwards further than many. If you don't want such a wing shape, the PLT Compact Ergo from Pro is more of a traditional ergo drop, but with a more subtle flattening of the tops that's halfway between an aero bar and something ergonomically instigated. It doesn't have internal routing, but smaller riders may like this as it comes in a 36cm width. If you want a bit of a flare to the drops then the Bontrager Elite Aero VR-CF could be up your street. It's got a 4-degree outward sweep and semi-internal cable routing if you want to keep the front end a little neater.
Alloy Budget
If price is your number one priority then it's really hard to look past the budget options from Brand X. Not just the model above, but the compact version with ergonomic shaping on the tops. They'll be totally functional, pass all required safety tests, and may be a little heavy. If you want something affordable but from a more well-known brand then there are plenty of options out there, though they may be a little more expensive than the truly budget Brand X offerings.
Deda has the Zero RHM, a classic ergo drop that comes in under £30 at full price, and at the time of writing is discounted, though getting narrower widths will be tricky. Similarly, you could go for the Comp Curve from Ritchey, which is similarly priced but comes in a 38cm option, or the Compact Vero from FSA which is a hair deeper and has more reach than the Ritchey option, but only by a few millimetres.
Alloy Classic Curve
Are you building up a classic bike? Want traditional round drop bars but don't fancy the Deda Zero100 Deep? Well, I can't say I blame you necessarily, as they are extremely deep. You could try the Zero100 Shallow, which is basically the same but, you guessed it, shallower, and probably better suited to more riders.
Failing that there's the perennial Ritchey Classic Neoclassic, which has the advantage of coming in silver for those of you who've been hoarding vintage campagnolo groupsets, or there's the Zipp Service Course SL-88 which has a 3-degree outward sweep to the drops for those who prefer a little bit of flare. Finally, you could also try the Energy Traditional bar from FSA which has a 2-degree outsweep down below.
Alloy Compact
I suspect this is going to be the main event for many of you, especially if you're putting together a bike from the ground up. It's where there are the most options out there, and consequently where there is the most potential for confusion. I will allay any fears though; having tried a tonne of compact drops over the years they are all extremely similar. Unless you go for something from the fringes with a lot of flare, a lot of reach, or a larger drop they will all feel relatively similar, so you can focus more on things like weight, or which brand logo you want peeping out either side of your stem.
The Prime Doyenne Lightweight Alloy bar is especially useful for smaller riders as it comes in a 36cm width, which isn't always easy to find, and has a reasonable price tag too. The similarly priced Short Reach Bars from Specialized will also work for most applications and come in an all-matte finish, in contrast to the glossy mid-section of the prime.
If you want something a little more radical then take a look at the WCS Skyline from Ritchey. The tops are ovalised and backswept, which I've always enjoyed on other Ritchey handlebars. The main point of difference though is the drops, which feature a much more angled shape, giving you a long, flat section in the hook of the drops if that's where you like to spend a lot of time riding.
Carbon Aero
While alloy aero bars may offer performance advantages at a lower price point, for those with deeper pockets or a greater obsession with weight carbon aero bars are the way to go, if you're not going all in on an integrated cockpit.
If the Pro Vibe option isn't to your tastes then you could cosplay at being Wount Van Aert with a set of Vision Metron 4D bars. There's a 'Flat' version with flat, wing-shaped hoods, or an ergo version where there is a slight rise after the clamp area, leaving the wings to slope downwards. To my mind the flat version makes more sense, as if you're buying aero bars you're not planning on spending a great deal of time on the tops anyway, so making them more ergonomic is a little daft. Also be aware the drops kink outwards near their terminus at the base of the curve, putting the base of the drops wider for descending control, but keeping the frontal area more narrow.
Prime has the Primavera bar, which is noticeably cheaper than most other options, has internal routing and comes in a greater range of widths (down to 36cm). Given that opting for a narrower bar will probably save you more watts than swapping from a round to an aero top section, this could be the best bang for your buck of any carbon bar. The only downside is the drops truncate rapidly after the curve, so you'll be riding more in the hook of the bar than on the bottom section unless you opt for some bar extenders (a useful upgrade if you want to ride more on the flat section).
Finally, you could opt for the EC70 bar from Easton. It doesn't do anything that the others don't, but it is another option that's more competitively priced than options from the likes of Pro and Vision. You can't get narrower than 40cm, but you do get a giant "EASTON" logo across the whole winged section so everyone will know which brand you're riding.
Carbon Budget
In all honesty, there isn't really anything that matches the Brand X option for budget carbon. The next closest thing would be the Prime Primavera X-Light, which is a great option but double the price. It is similar in shape, on the curve at least, to the WCS Skyline from Ritchey, with a much more angular profile, which may appeal to some.
Carbon Classic Curve
Bad news, sports fans... From my extensive searching if you want a classic drop bar made from carbon you're limited to the Ritchey WCS Carbon Neoclassic.
Carbon Compact
In a similar way to the alloy compact segment, this is where most carbon bars fall on the bell curve, so there are more options to choose from, and also as with the alloy bars, they will all to some degree feel relatively similar.
If you need a jumping-off point the Ritchey Carbon Evocurve is as good a place as any. I really enjoy the Evocurve shape, and it's especially good if you spend a lot of time on the tops. It has internal routing, though on carbon bars nowadays this is basically ubiquitous.
The S-Works Shallow Bend bar is just a carbon copy (pun intended) of the alloy version mentioned above. It's a very bread-and-butter shape with a straight top section and a pretty impressive weight at 200g for a 42cm wide bar.
The Enve Compact Road bar has a more pronounced flattening of its upper section, though not to the same degree as any of the aero offerings, but unlike many others it's flared, and has a curve that extends rearwards for a lot longer. If you like spending time at the end of your drops rather than inside the curve then these may well be the choice for you.
Superlight
These are definitely going to be the bling-est upgrades you can make to your bike, but unless you're building a bike with low weight being the absolute priority (I'm thinking hill climb bikes here), you will likely get a greater performance advantage from going aero instead.
While the Darimo option is bonkers light, Schmolke has several options that are almost as feathery, but in a wider array of shapes. Ironically, Lightweight makes the heaviest of the superlight, sub 200g bars with its KOMPAKTBÜGEL (yes, it is all capitalised for some reason).
Any of these will be sure to raise some eyebrows at the cafe, and all will put a dent in your wallet.
Fully Integrated
There's every chance that if you have an integrated cockpit it's because it came on your new bike. Given how many of these systems are proprietary or at least semi-proprietary if you're looking to replace it the best place to start is probably with the original component manufacturer.
If you want to add a one-piece system to your bike and it has a separate bar and stem combo on it at the moment then you're more free to choose from any options. The Vision option listed above is one of many, but instead of that, you could easily go for the incredibly space-age-looking Pro Vibe Evo, which gets used in the pro peloton, or the new Roval Rapide cockpit, also now a mainstay on the bikes of Specialized sponsored teams.
While most integrated cockpits prioritise low drag, the Roval Alpinist is an integrated bar and stem combo with the look of more traditional round profile bars, but weighs in at 220g for a 42cm x 110mm set, which is lighter than many standalone bars!
Riser
Riser bars are going to be more of a fit consideration than anything to do with aero or weight. If the ControlTech set doesn't do it for you, then Specialized has the Hoverbar that comes as standard on all its Roubaix models but is also available aftermarket. Likewise, you could opt for the Ritchey WCS Ergomax, perhaps the most ergonomically sculpted of all the Ritchey bars, with gentle swooping curves and ovalised tops, along with a slight flare.
Finally, Surly has its Truck Stop Bar, with a whopping 30mm of rise. It only comes in widths of 42cm or wider, however, but could be the answer if you've accidentally bought a bike with a steerer tube totally chopped down.
How to choose the best road bike handlebars for you
What width handlebar do I need?
The basic rule of thumb is to opt for a bar that's the same width as the bony protrusions on the top of your shoulders, but this isn't the full story. For greater control or confidence over rougher terrain a wider bar may be better for you, though too wide and you'll come into fit issues as you'll effectively be having to lean further forward. Likewise, a narrower bar will be both lighter and reduce your frontal area meaning you're more aerodynamic.
The best thing to do, in an ideal world, is to consult a bike fitter. For years I laboured under the misapprehension that I needed 40cm bars, going as wide as 44cm on my gravel bike. My fitter put me on 38cm bars and I've yet to look back.
Bear in mind that width is generally measured at the centre of the tubes at the hoods, but Deda for example measures outside to outside, and also bear in mind that any flare will make the drops wider than the hoods.
What is reach and drop?
Reach is the distance from the horizontal part of the handlebar to the furthest edge of the drops and determines how far away the levers will be placed. Bigger riders will need a more extended reach while shorter riders will be more comfortable with a smaller figure.
Drop refers to the distance from your tops to your drops. Most people are better suited to a shorter drop because it doesn't require quite as much flexibility, but a lower front end should theoretically result in a smaller frontal area, which in turn requires fewer watts for faster speeds. All in moderation though, as saving 10 aero watts won't benefit you if you lose 20 due to discomfort. It's also worth bearing in mind the most aero position is with your forearms horizontal while holding the hoods, but again this is harder to maintain for longer distances.
Which shape of drops should I choose?
The shape of the drops varies from brand to brand, but they are roughly divided into three categories. Compact, traditional, and ergo.
Traditional bars are what you expect to see on old school road bikes with a long gentle curve which creates a deep drop and a low position. Compact bars are a bit straighter and put the hoods flatly in line with the tops; the bend into the drops is tighter, meaning it’s also higher. Ergo bars seem to fall somewhere in the middle and feature a flat spot part of the way down the drop.
Bar shape is highly personal, and you want to look for bars which create the least amount of bend in your wrist when you grab the drops — how you like to position your hoods will also come into play.
Image 1 of 3
Compact handlebar shape. A shorter drop with a less pronounced curve(Image credit: Courtesy)
Traditonal handlebar shape - a more curved drop with a flat bottom for a low position(Image credit: Courtesy)
Ergo handlebar shape - a low drop position but with a flat spot half way through the curve(Image credit: Courtesy)
Are carbon handlebars better than aluminium ones?
Better in what way? They are certainly lighter, but grams matter less than drag coefficients. Carbon is easier to shape into unusual forms to really cheat the wind, so carbon aero bars and particularly single-piece cockpits are technically going to be 'better', as they are lighter, stiffer, and the most aero, but they are almost always far more expensive. The best price-to-performance ratio will come from alloy aero bars, but for many of us switching bars is more about ergonomics than speed.
What is meant by 'clamping diameter'?
The clamping diameter is in regards to the diameter of the very central portion of the handlebars, where the stem clamps onto them. For the most part, road handlebars are 31.8mm (you can view this as 'normal'). Older bars sometimes come in 25.4mm, but this is unusual, and more common on more classic-style bars, or very old-fashioned steel options to pair with quill stems.
If you are changing handlebars and ordering yourself some new ones, you will need to make sure the handlebar diameter matches the stem clamp size to ensure the bars and stem will fit properly together.
Which handlebar will fit the most accessories?
If you like to clamp lights, computers, bar bags, a bell etc on your bars then a simple set with a horizontal top and round tubing will be the best. Aero bars, and even ergonomically shaped options, reduce the real estate available onto which you can clamp things. Look at the Pro Vibe bars for example; without a Pro-branded very slimline computer mount there is nowhere to mount anything.
Do all handlebars have internal cable routing?
No, but it's becoming increasingly more common. If you don't have internal cable routing then you can still use bars without access ports worry-free, but if you require cable routing then you need to make sure your new bars have the required holes. Some bars have exit ports before the stem clamp, some within the stem clamp area, and some both, so cross-check with your current bike to avoid any fitting issues.
What's the point of curved handlebars?
If you're coming to the road (and gravel) riding from flat bars you may be wondering why the silly-looking bars. The short answer is just to provide multiple hand positions, which comes in handy on longer rides. You can hold the hoods, you can hold the tops, and you have several different options down below with the curved portion. All of these move your wrists and hands about and help to reduce fatigue.
Will joined the Cyclingnews team as a reviews writer in 2022, having previously written for Cyclist, BikeRadar and Advntr. There are very few types of cycling he's not dabbled in, and he has a particular affection for older bikes and long lasting components. Road riding was his first love, before graduating to racing CX in Yorkshire. He's been touring on a vintage tandem all the way through to fixed gear gravel riding and MTB too. When he's not out riding one of his many bikes he can usually be found in the garage tinkering with another of them, or getting obsessive about tyres. Also, as he doesn't use Zwift, he's our go-to guy for bad weather testing... bless him.
Rides: Custom Zetland Audax, Bowman Palace:R, Peugeot Grand Tourisme Tandem, Falcon Explorer Tracklocross, Fairlight Secan & Strael
