Ty Magner will rev up his sprint engine for a fifth season at L39ION of Los Angeles, ushering in the 20th racing season in his career in 2025. Podium visits were a habit, 110 of them and counting, with teams like Hincapie Sportwear Devo, UnitedHealthcare, Rally Cycling and then L39ION, but a disappointing 2024 had him with "one foot out the door thinking about the future". 

It was the day after "a shit race" at the Armed Forces Cycling Classic, an event where he won in 2022 and had been top 10 two other years, that he recommitted to earning a living on a bike and scrapped retirement plans. He told his L39ION teammates, "I'm not quitting". 

"I was on the edge of 2024 being my last season as a 'pro', but I was having a terrible spring - no legs, sick - and I realized it was because I had one foot out the door thinking about the future. I remember getting back to the hotel sitting with Alexis [Magner], Alec [Cowan], and Justin [Williams] and told them fuck this, I'm not quitting.

"From that point on, starting with Clarendon Cup, my head was back in it. My training got better, racing legs were slowly coming around," Magner told Cyclingnews, as he then put an end to DNFs and mid-pack finishes to earn eight top 10s in the second half of the season.

The former U23 and USPro criterium national champion said his career on the bike has given him a life that he would not trade for anything. While the definition of 'pro' may not be defined by WorldTour standards, he said it delivered more than race wins.

"Personally, I’ve had over 80 high-level wins in the crits, my drive now is to get the team back to winning. I know when the team is working as it should that leads to wins not only for me but for everyone on L39ION. I’m doing my best to be the best teammate I can be," Magner reflected.

"The goal is pushing the sport forward as a team rather than individuals. Teams are the backbone of bike racing.

"Crazy to think back on. 2011 was my first year making a living as a cyclist. Cycling has given my wife Alexis and I everything - our marriage, our home, friends, animals, adventure. All from racing bikes."

He's sort of the Carl Edwards for criterium racing, on par with the same number of high-level victories as the newest member of the NASCAR Hall of Fame. In Magner's 15th season as a pro, he plans to be on the start line with L39ION this weekend at Valley of the Sun Stage Race in Arizona, the first time he's been to that event. It serves as a proving ground for many of the top juniors and aspiring pros, and a three-day race camp to kick out cobwebs for veterans. 

While Magner has had success in multi-day races, winning stages at the Tour of Utah and Tour de Beauce, it's the US-style criterium where he makes his bread-and-butter. 2023 was a bounty in one-day races, taking 13 top fives, with victories at Tulsa Tough, the Crystal City race at Armed Forces Cycling Classic, Boise's Bailey & Glasser Twilight Criterium and Salt Lake Criterium.

"USA CRITS kicks off in April, so we still have a few months for the meat of the season. A team goal will be the ACC [American Criterium Cup] as the schedule has been condensed. Tulsa is a blast to win, Boise is a good one too," the 33-year-old fastman said.

"But Athens is and will always be the one I want to check off. I’ve lived here in Athens since 2009. In 2010 I made the break of five in the pouring rain and Karl Menzies won. Karl and I were teammates in 2016 on UHC, and I believe he turned 40 that year. So if you carry the 2, subtract a bit, multiply by 3, divide that… it would make Karl my age when he snagged the win. Who knows! Could be cool."

Magner has been on the podium multiple times at his hometown race, but never on the top step. His wife Alexis, now racing for Cynisca Cycling, has now won the Athens Orthopedic Clinic Twilight Criterium twice.

The husband-wife duo mixed in cyclocross racing at the end of last season with teammate Robin Carpenter. After a couple of solid races, Ty decided to compete at USA Cycling Cyclocross Nationals in Louisville. He won another national title in the process, in the men's 30-34 age division.

"The Georgia CX series is incredible with some really passionate promoters and racers, like wicked talent Matthew Crabbe, who is on his way to the top of the sport at only 15. It kept my heart in the sport, my legs turning, and it was fun to be somewhat competitive in the local UCI races, which gave me some intrigue for nationals," Magner said.

"Cool to snag another jersey, I wish I would’ve won a junior national title then I could’ve had a title in all categories!"

For a lot of cyclists, cadence is an overlooked element of the performance equation. Cadence refers to the speed at which you turn the cranks over and is personal to your riding style and to some extent your physiology. Deliberately riding at specific cadence ranges could potentially open up some performance gains. Even though for the most part the science now seems to agree that your self-selected cadence is often the most efficient for you (within reason), spending some time working across a range of cadences could be what your training is missing. 

Cadence is part of the equation for power. Essentially power boils down to the force you put through the pedals multiplied by the cadence you pedal at. This means that by altering your cadence you can directly influence your power output. For example, to ride at 200 watts, if you ride at a cadence of 110 revolutions per minute (RPM) you will need a comparatively lower force applied to the pedals than if you pedalled at 70 RPM. This results in less muscular fatigue as there is less fibre strain when pressing on the pedals. Instead, the main system that is predominantly stressed at higher cadences is your cardiovascular system with your heart, lungs and blood doing most of the heavy lifting.

On the flip side if you decide to ride at a very low cadence, the force required on each pedal stroke is going to be far greater, this will mean that more muscular engagement is required which will result in greater muscular stress. 

At any given output the most efficient cadence is the one that uses the least energy overall, as a result, we often see the most efficient cadence for any given rider increase in line with power output. 

The science behind why the same cadence is not always equal

To complicate matters further, cadence is more complex than simply how fast you turn the cranks. Depending on environmental factors such as gradients, headwinds or road surfaces, the way the force on the pedals is applied at identical cadences can vary massively. This is why riding at 90rpm on the flat can feel very different to riding at 90rpm on a steep gradient and it also goes some way to explain why it can be hard to put any meaningful power out on a fast descent. 

The reason behind this phenomenon, known as crank inertial load (CIL), is due to the inertia of the bike and rider on steeper gradients. The CIL is lower on climbs than when riding on the flat. As the CIL decreases the torque required increases and therefore often facilitates a decrease in cadence allowing riders to ‘push through more of the pedal stroke.’ 

Essentially, changes in CIL have been shown to directly correspond to changes in cadence and go some way to explain why riders typically have a different cadence when riding on the flat compared to riding on a steep climb. Although some studies have shown that there is no measurable difference riding at the same cadence in high or low CIL situations, it can feel different. This is one of the reasons that specific cadence training can be beneficial to incorporate into your training. 

When you are cycling on the flat or a descent, the inertia of you and your bike does the majority of the work of continuing your speed through each pedal stroke. This means that the power you apply is used to mostly maintain your speed. In high inertia environments, the rate at which power needs to be loaded and subsequently unloaded is far higher than on a climb where inertia is far lower and power is required continuously to maintain forward momentum. 

As a result, training at different cadences should be practised both on climbs and on the flat to develop your body's ability to effectively produce power not only at different cadences but also with different crank inertial loads. If you find that you struggle to maintain a high power output as your speed increases, some cadence drills on a gradual false flat descent can train your neuromuscular system to more effectively deliver power. 

How your body responds to different CIL is biologically different with high inertial loads recruiting a higher percentage of fast-twitch muscles that are better able to deal with the short and snappy delivery of power per pedal revolution. At lower inertia power is generated by a greater volume of slow-twitch muscles. 

Low cadence training can be seen as on-bike strength training

If we consider the earlier point regarding the equation for power development on a bike, riding at a slower cadence requires a great force generation per revolution of the cranks. This means that at low cadences of 65RPM or lower riding at intensities close to zone 4 can be used to develop muscular strength. 

When we cycle, not all of the muscle fibres in our legs are used and as a result, not all of the muscle fibres benefit from the stress adaptions that come from training. By increasing the force generation required a greater percentage of your muscle will need to be recruited. In return, this will stimulate a greater percentage of muscle to become more fatigue-resistant. 

If you are looking to increase your maximal power output there are really only two ways to achieve this, either train yourself to ride at a higher cadence or increase the force you can generate per pedal stroke. For a trained cyclist the option to increase their cadence by any meaningful increment for any meaningful duration is a hard ask. Increasing your muscular capacity to generate force can typically yield a greater net increase in maximal power output. 

By riding at a moderate (zone 3) intensity at a cadence below 65rpm your muscles will recruit more fibres to generate the increase in force. These fibres will then be able to generate force more effectively at your self-selected cadence when cycling at peak power outputs. 

High cadence drills can improve pedalling and cardiovascular abilities  

If you have ever tried to ride at a higher than typical cadence you will know that after not very long at all, keeping your legs ticking over can become a task in itself. At higher cadences of over 110rpm delivering a smooth pedal stroke can become difficult. 

High-cadence training improves neuromuscular coordination, which is essential for maintaining smooth, controlled pedalling. This coordination becomes particularly important in situations that require rapid changes in speed or direction, such as navigating through a group of riders or accelerating out of a corner. Increasing your effective ‘rev range’ can also have the effect of raising your natural self-selected cadence which at higher power outputs can have a positive impact on efficiency. 

Spending some time in training at higher cadences will also shift the training stress to a mainly cardiovascular bias. Moving your legs costs energy in itself, so moving your legs faster will cost more energy, with the decrease in force generation and the increase in crank rotational speed your body relies on oxygen to generate power. 

There is some evidence to suggest that riding at higher cadences at the same power will put a greater training load on your cardiovascular system which will promote adaptations to how efficiently your body can supply your muscles with oxygen.

Varied cadence training opens up a range of cadences to ride at

Varied cadence training helps you learn to switch gears effectively and find the most energy-efficient cadence for riding conditions with different CILs. The skill to alternate between higher and lower cadences can be especially useful during undulating or long rides. Being able to adjust your cadence to match the demands of the terrain, you can reduce energy expenditure and delay the onset of fatigue.

Combining high and low cadence training will make you a more rounded-athlete

Adding a mix of high-cadence and low-cadence work into your training is certainly worthwhile if you feel like you have reached a plateau. The increase in muscular recruitment driven by low cadence training and the cardiovascular and pedalling benefits of high cadence training will have a positive effect on your ability when riding at your self-selected cadence. 

Ways to implement varied cadence training

To get the most from varied cadence training, it's important to integrate it systematically into your cycling training and you can do it in several ways.

Structured Intervals: Incorporate intervals of low-cadence (60-70 RPM) and high-cadence (100-120 RPM) pedalling into your rides. Start with shorter intervals and gradually increase their duration as your body adapts. It will feel both physically and mentally challenging at first to ride outside of your natural cadence range. 

Hill Repeats: Perform hill repeats at both high and low cadences. Climb a hill at a low cadence, focusing on delivering power smoothly through the whole pedal stroke without stamping on the pedals. This can then be repeated at a higher cadence, focusing on leg speed and efficiency once again paying close attention to smooth power delivery. 

Cadence Drills: These can be included in any ride sporadically to accumulate time riding at a varied cadence. For example, ride at your normal cadence for a few minutes, then switch to a higher cadence for a set period, followed by a lower cadence. Look to spend between 1-2 minutes at the different cadences to start off with before building up to blocks of five minutes or more. 

Overgeared efforts: Adding some sprint efforts where you begin from a rolling start in a very big gear will help develop your peak muscular force generation. Efforts of 15-20 seconds will allow for you to get up to speed and start spinning the gear which will have the added benefit of improving your ability to develop power across the whole cadence range. 

Monitor Your Progress: Tracking your training with cadence and power data will help you to see the performance benefits. Small improvements are hard to register unless you are looking for them so spending some time looking at how your power/cadence is improving is a great way to ensure what you are doing is having a positive effect. Having a record of your training also allows you to keep track of what you have done in the past so that you can adjust the intensity/duration of your cadence intervals to keep them challenging and driving those physiological adaptions. 

Time, founded in France in the late '80s, was once at the forefront of road pedal technology while also manufacturing frames and select other components. It has taken victories at the highest echelons of road cycling beneath the likes of Greg LeMond, Miguel Indurain, and in more recent years Tom Boonen and Anna van der Breggen.

But the brand had fallen out of favour and fallen behind the competition from Shimano and Look, and in 2021, the then-owners decided to split the business up and sell it. The pedal portion of the business found a promising buyer in SRAM.

SRAM's business with the brand in that time has been steadily growing, with increased WorldTour presence via sponsorships with teams such as Lidl-Trek and SD-Worx, but now the brand is renewing almost the entire range. 

There are 13 new products, with five new road pedals, including three new XPro pedals and two new Xpresso models. There are three new gravel/XC pedals in the Atac lineup. On the mountain bike side, there are four new models, including two trail-focussed MX pedals and two downhill/enduro-rated Speciale models. There's also a single urban/commuter option called the Link. 

Each pair has received varying degrees of update, but we'll focus on the road and gravel pedals here, such is our area of expertise and interest. 

Road pedals

The flagship model in the new road range is the XPro SL, a product Time claims is the lightest on the market at 87.3 grams per side. This will replace the XPro 15 of old. 

Its price is a frankly staggering £440.00 / $440.00 / €490.00, beating out the outgoing XPro 15 and almost doubling the price of Shimano's top-tier Dura-Ace model. 

For that outlay, Time says you'll get "the ultimate expression of pedal technology," with a carbon fibre body, a hollow-titanium spindle and ceramic bearings. It also boasts a reduced stack height and increased 725mm surface area for better power transfer. 

It will come with three different spindle lengths to allow the rider to fine tune their stance width, as well as three spring positions for adjustable clip-in tension. 

As usual, moving further down the range comes with concessions in return for a cost saving. The XPro 12 loses the ceramic bearings in favour of steel and uses a full titanium axle rather than the hollowed version. The XPro 10 also uses steel bearings and switches to a hollow steel axle. Both maintain the same carbon fibre body, aerodynamic form, 725mm surface area, 14.7mm stack height, and tension-adjustable spring. 

Moving on to the Xpresso range, and the price comes down a little further while switching to a slightly different design. Both the Xpresso 6 and Xpresso 4 use a glass-fibre composite body, steel bearings and steel spindle. According to SRAM's details, they share the same weight despite the more expensive model adding a stainless steel plate to the platform. They also share the same 700mm contact area and 15.1mm stack height. 

Gravel

Heading away from the smooth tarmac, Time's Atac range has long been revered by pros and amateurs, with the likes of five-time-world-champion Julien Absalon among its fans. 

The new range includes the top-tier Atac XC 12, as well as the 10 and the 6. All three use steel bearings and share an 18.3mm stack height, but material choice and weight all vary depending on how much you're willing to spend. 

The Atac XC 12 and 10 both get injected carbon fibre composite bodies. The 12 benefits from an oversized hollow titanium spindle for a weight of 120g per pedal (total system weight for both pedals with cleats is 285g). The 10 uses an oversized hollow steel spindle, which adds 20g to each pedal. 

The cheapest Atac XC 6 uses a standard steel spindle and glass-fibre composite body for a weight of 150g per pedal, hitting a total weight of 345g. 

Pricing and availability

 All pedals are available as of today, April 18th. Pricing is broken down as follows: 

• XPro SL: $440.00 | €490.00 | £440.00
• XPro 12: $305.00 | €340.00 | £305.00
• XPro 10: $160.00 | €180.00 | £160.00
• XPresso 6: $95.00 | €105.00 | £95.00
• XPresso 4: $65.00 | €70.00 | £65.00
• Atac XC 12: $295.00 | €330.00 | £295.00
• Atac XC 10: $150.00 | €165.00 | £150.00
• Atac XC 6: $90.00 | €100.00 | £90.00

If you want to understand the history of clipless pedals it starts with Look. You could debate that the brand wasn't actually the first but it doesn't matter all that much. Look created the first commercially successful clipless pedal that uses the twisting motion we are all familiar with. Look was also able to continue to stay relevant in the space through continued innovation.  

As power meters rose to prominence in the training space, there became a point where the holy grail of the best power meters started to look like pedals. As with the history of clipless, we can debate if that ended up being true but there's no doubt there are advantages. With the power measurement closer to the source it's good for accuracy and given how easy pedals are to move between bikes, it's a convenient form factor. It's also a guaranteed way to have true left/right measurement. Look recognized these advantages, as well as the importance of staying relevant in the face of innovation. The brand was one of the first to start offering power meter pedals through partnerships with Polar and SRM. 

That said, Look was not alone in offering pedal-based power meters and lately other options eclipsed what Look had available. I'd argue that Garmin pedals, specifically the Garmin Vector 2, made the previous Look power pedal offerings (and the complicated install procedure) irrelevant. Today that equation changes again. 

The Look Keo Blade Power Pedal is a product that shakes up the landscape all over again. I've been riding with these pedals since a bit before they hit the market and now I'm ready to share my thoughts. If you are looking for a new power meter the Look Keo Blade Power Pedals should be on your short list. Keep reading to see if Look is the right choice for you. 

Design and aesthetics

I've been using Look pedals long enough that I can't remember using anything else. I still have a set of base model Look Keo Blade pedals I bought in 2019 and who knows what I used before that. This backstory is relevant because it was long before the Look Keo Blade Power Pedal hit the market that I started testing these pedals. Instead, I started testing with the latest Keo Blade update that the brand announced at the end of January. I can say that because the power pedals are almost exactly the same. 

When the non-power version hit the market, they brought with them a host of small updates but left in place the namesake technology. As before, a carbon composite body uses a rear retention clip that pivots when you push your foot down. Instead of a spring to close it, and hold your cleat in the pedal, Look uses a carbon "blade" that flexes. Changing the blade to a different model adjusts the tension and there are multiple options available depending on the specific pedal model.

What did change about new pedals was the shape of the pedal body. According to the brand the new pedal shape was the result of over three years of development with pro rider input and "WorldTour performance specialists." Look claims the new design is 200% more impact-resistant with a smaller front surface and a claimed 2% drag savings compared to the previous Keo Blade. The weight distribution is also better so the pedal is more likely to hang at the right angle for clip-in and there is an increased cleat contact surface of 705 mm². The pedals also have a new spindle design with dual-sealed bearings and reformulated water-resistant grease. 

The middle child model of this new lineup is the Keo Blade Ceramic version with a weight of 115 grams per pedal. Like all the new models, the platform width is 64 mm with a 8.5 mm stack height and a Q Factor of 53 mm. This matters because if you put this one next to the Look Keo Blade Power Pedal, you likely won't see any difference. If you ride one back to back you likely won't notice a difference either. In short, Look takes the brand's known and loved pedal and adds a power meter with virtually no change in design. 

Of course, there are a few changes if you look closely. The main difference is that the axle body is slightly bigger in the power version. Visually the axle bulge in the centre is ever so slightly taller with a flat cover on the outside of the body. Instead of a stack height of 8.5 mm the power pedal increases to 10.8 mm and the weight creeps up by 15 grams per pedal. 

For your extra 15 grams you get not only the expected additional electronics but also a 140mAh battery. As with other brands, Look seals the battery into the axle providing an IPX7 water resistance rating with a promise of "less than 20% capacity loss after 300 full cycles (approx. 10 years of use)." This matches the water resistance rating of Garmin Rally pedals and it also means, like those pedals, that you'll need a pedal wrench instead of a hex wrench for installation. 

Another reason for the switch to the pedal wrench is that the charge port is on the inside of the pedal axle. In the spot where the standard pedal takes an 8 mm hex wrench the power pedal instead has a clear bump where you can see a status light. When it's time to charge there's a split two outlet USB-C to USB-A cable with a pair of adapters on the USB-C end. Should you ever want to use a different cable the magnetic adapters pop off the end leaving you free to use whatever you'd like. A full charge takes 2 hours and provides 60 hours of use. 

In terms of electronics, there's no surprise here. Power meter electronics are long past compatibility issues. There's ANT+ or Bluetooth Smart (only one connection at a time) to connect to whatever smartwatch, head unit, phone, or computer you need to get power data to. There's also cadence data and left/right balance if you've gone with the dual-sided power unit. You won't find pedalling dynamics, so Garmin still has more data available, but oval chainrings aren't an issue and there's active temperature compensation plus auto/manual-zero capability. Claimed accuracy is +/- 1% again matching most brands on the market.

Installation

In 2024 the idea of some kind of special installation process for pedals is dead in the water. Even the SRM X-Power road pedals I reviewed last year are, quite honestly, pushing the boundaries with a slightly finicky zeroing procedure. Meanwhile, the last Garmin pedal to need a torque wrench was the Vector 1 (the Vector 2 did not need a torque wrench no matter what you read) and Wahoo doesn't have any special install procedure either. I've included this section only to make it clear that there's no special install needed for Look pedals. 

Look lists a torque number of 40-43nm for installation with a 15mm pedal wrench but it's not necessary. You need to make sure your pedals don't fall off, personally I find finger tight is plenty and Look puts a nice big spot for the pedal wrench that's easy to grab. Since pedals tighten in use, I don't see the point in cranking down on them and accurate power measurement does not require any specific torque. 

Outside of the physical install, again requiring nothing different than any other pedal, there is also a calibration in the app. The manual says to rotate the crank arms vertically but I don't think it says that in the app and I don't think I did it initially. The power still tested accurately against other power meters. 

Performance

Outside of the installation, or non-installation if you prefer, there's a bit more to say about the app. Overall, it's quite simple and mostly offers the ability to do firmware updates, see live data, battery levels, and do a calibration. It's no Garmin Connect, though it’s arguably more full-featured in terms of managing the hardware, but everything appears polished and there's one detail I'm so happy to see. 

While it's simple enough to go into Gamin Connect and change the crank arm length, Look makes it easier by adding bike profiles. Add a bike, change the crank length, then when you move the pedals select the correct bike and the crank length will be correct. This might not be a big issue for a lot of people but I'm happy to see this simple fix for an issue I've had a number of times.

As far as accuracy goes, I tested the power data against a Garmin Tacx Neo Bike Plus. The result was data that almost perfectly matched for the profile with a 4-watt difference in the average. As I always have to mention, two power meters from different locations will never match numbers exactly. That said, I've built up a pretty extensive database of tests at this point and 4 watts is very close. 

It's also worth mentioning that this is with the dual-power version of the pedals. If you were to use a single-sided system, you'd be doubling the difference in power between your legs. In this case, that means since my left leg average 6% low I'd be looking at a 12% deduction in reported power based on only left leg measurements. You'll have to decide if that's good enough for you but I prefer not to have 12% added to my intervals. 

Hopefully, by this point, I've laid the groundwork to show that Look Keo Blade Power Pedals are accurate and install like a pedal should. In terms of actually using them, the story is much the same as the first section. The standard Keo Blade Pedals and the Keo Blade Power Pedals are the same experience with the only difference being the release torque of the included blade. Yes, the stack height is also slightly taller but I certainly can’t feel that. Instead, it’s the 16nm vs 12 nm that I noticed. My preference is actually 8nm which is available for the non-power Keo but not the Power Pedal. 

One thing I did not test as part of this review is the ability to swap pedal bodies. As with Garmin pedals, the electronics of the Look Keo Blade Power Pedals are located in the axle and it’s possible to swap pedal bodies. While the process seems rather simple, in the US it’s not considered a self-service process. Instead, owners are asked to send the pedals to the Look USA technical facility in Florida. Look will also be offering crash repair services at the technical facility and noted that “Due to the nature of the electronics and calibration LOOK Cycle recommends all service be performed at our facility in Florida. By performing the service inhouse, we can guarantee the accuracy of the service and continue your warranty coverage. All inhouse service will continue your full warranty and include a replacement set of cleats."

Verdict

The elephant in the room with all power pedals is Garmin. Each brand will tell you that there’s a competitive advantage, and there are anecdotal reports of issues with weather sealing, but in my experience Garmin has a product that works. I’ve been using Garmin power pedal products since 2016 and they consistently work without issue. That leaves new products to carve out a niche. 

Among those niches that are available is the retention quality of the pedals. This is something I noted in my review of the SRM X-Power pedals and it is a big part of the decision-making process with the Look Keo Power Pedals. With that in mind, I find that Look pedals can be a little more difficult to clip into. The pad on the cleat catches the edge of the pedal and hitting the right spot is more difficult than the Look-compatible Garmin RK200 or the SPD-SL compatible SRM X-Power. Once in the pedal though, Look provides an incredibly stable platform. Garmin pedals are loose in comparison and if you worry about coming out in a sprint, choose Look or SRM. 

From there, the decision tree opens into something more binary. If you check my list of positive and negative attributes, you’ll notice that rechargeable batteries are on both. That's because one is not necessarily better than the other, it’s a choice. Do you prefer being required to have a hard-to-find battery on hand but in exchange getting more battery life and the ability to instantly replenish that battery life? If so, Garmin does it for you. You do also get a bit more data since Look doesn’t have cycling dynamics. On the other hand, if you prefer being able to recharge when needed and never worrying about having batteries then Look is the better choice. 

You might also notice that I’ve now dropped the SRM pedals out of the discussion. With the release of the Look Keo Blade Power Pedals, those pedals are hard to recommend. Look offers a better app experience, easier install, and a high quality pedal that’s both lighter and more aerodynamic. Look is also offering all of that at a price point that slightly undercuts the price of Garmin pedals while sitting significantly lower than the SRM price point. 

Choosing the right pedals can be a bit of a minefield. Experienced riders tend to lean towards clipless pedals, on both road and gravel bikes. Why? The best clipless pedals help to increase pedalling efficiency as well as power transfer, and ultimately, comfort over longer rides.

Commuters tend to favour flat pedals as it's easier to put your foot down at junctions, and mountain bikers are split between those using flat and clipless. Once you decide which side of the fence you're on, then you need to think about which cleat fitment is best.

The best road bike pedals use three-bolt cleats that are larger, protruding below the shoe’s sole, and use single-sided pedals designed for maximum power transfer on the road. Meanwhile, the best gravel bike pedals use a smaller two-bolt cleat that's recessed into the shoe’s sole and is usually paired with double-sided pedals. The pedal choice will also dictate whether you choose the best road cycling shoes or gravel bike shoes to pair them with.

Ultimately, the best clipless pedals are the ones that align with your riding style, cleat compatibility and whether you prioritise power transfer or walkability. To simplify things, this guide is split into two sections: the best clipless pedals for road bikes and the best clipless pedals for gravel bikes.

We have tested a total of 12 clipless pedals from different manufacturers in both on-road and off-road conditions. If you're still unsure of what the best clipless pedal for you after reading, feel free to check out our How To Choose and FAQ sections at the end of the guide.

So without further ado, here are our picks for the best clipless pedals in 2026...

Best clipless pedals for road bikes

Best clipless pedals for gravel bikes

How to choose the best clipless pedals for you

Here are the key considerations when choosing the best clipless pedals for your needs:

• Will I ride on the road or off? Typically, road riders choose three-bolt style pedals and gravel riders and cyclocross racers will choose two-bolt designs.
• Will I walk in my shoes much? The choice above may be different if you're commuting or walking in your shoes, when you might choose a two-bolt style rather than a three-bolt. Conversely, gravel racers might choose a three-bolt style.
• How much adjustability do I want? Shimano and Look Keo 2 Max road pedals offer more adjustment that's easier to make than Time, Look Keo Blade or Speedplay road pedals. Shimano SPD-style off-road pedals adjust more than Crankbrothers, Time Atac or Hope.
• How much do I want to spend? You can get the same pedal system at a wide range of prices. More expensive pedals are generally lighter and may be better finished.

Everything you need to know about the best clipless pedals

Shimano three-bolt pedals

Shimano is perhaps the default choice. All its pedals use a similar design with a rear retainer that's tensioned by a coil spring. The pedal release tension is changed via a hex bolt at the top of the retainer, with an indicator window to show you the release tension you have set.

Shimano cleats are wide, providing a broad contact area with the pedal, although the wide cleat can overhang the sole of narrower or smaller shoes. There are three cleat options with 0, 2 or 6 degrees of float.

Look three bolt pedals

Look developed the original clipless pedal system. Look cleats are slightly smaller than Shimano's, and they also offer three options with 0, 4.5 and 9 degrees of float.

Look's lower-priced Keo 2 pedals use a similar retainer with a coil spring to Shimano (it licensed the technology to Shimano in the 1990s). Its higher-priced pedals, named Keo Blade, use a carbon leaf spring on the underside of the pedal body to tension the retainer; the brand brought out an updated pedal body in January 2024, which it claims makes the Keo Blade the most aero pedal available.

While the coil spring allows the release tension for Look's cheaper pedals to be continuously varied, the Keo Blade pedals' release tension is changed in discrete jumps by swapping the leaf spring, of which there are four different tensions available.

Time three-bolt pedals

Time is another brand which—like Speedplay—is seeing a renaissance under a new owner, in this case SRAM.

All Time's pedals use a carbon leaf spring to operate the rear retainer, and, as with Look Keo Blade pedals, you can swap the spring to change the release tension by discrete increments. Time's system holds the retainer open when the cleat is not engaged, making it easier to clip in.

Time has two road bike pedal ranges. The cheapest is the Xpresso, which has one composite-bodied and one carbon option. Step up to the Xpro, and there are three carbon models.

The top-spec Time Xpro 12 SL pedals have a titanium axle and ceramic bearings. Their claimed weight of 174g per pair makes them the lightest pedal option available, although at a price.

Speedplay three-bolt pedals

The final major road-going option is Speedplay. Wahoo updated and relaunched Speedplay pedals and added the Wahoo Powrlink Zero power meter pedals (now renamed Speedplay Power) to its portfolio.

Technically, Speedplay cleats are fixed to the shoe's sole with four bolts, but there is an adapter to allow them to be used with the more common three-bolt drilled road cycling shoes.

Speedplay pedals are unique among pedals for three-bolt cleats in allowing dual-sided entry (except the Speedplay Aero model) and having continuously variable float and release angles, although, unlike other systems, release tension cannot be varied. Also unique to Speedplay, the adjustability is in the cleat, with the pedal just offering a fixed retaining surface.

Shimano SPD two-bolt pedals

Shimano is also one of the go-to pedal options off-road, whether riding gravel or mountain biking.

Shimano offers three cleat options: the default SH51 cleat is included within the box with most pedals and offers 4 degrees of float and a single release action. Alternatively, Shimano has the SH56 cleat that offers a multi-directional release for riders who want to be able to easily unclip and the latest MT001, which provides multi-directional clipping in action, making it easier to clip back in on technical terrain.

Crankbrothers two-bolt pedals

Crankbrothers' clipless pedals are the other big player off-road and are a little different from Shimano's SPD system. The front and rear jaws are both sprung, which gives more options to engage the cleat into the mechanism while riding on rough terrain, as you can drag the cleat forward, backwards or stamp down onto the pedal.

In their most skeletal Eggbeater form, they have a minimalist design with four points of engagement, shedding mud easily and making them popular for cyclocross. Crankbrothers uses the same retention system, but with a platform in its Mallet and Candy pedals, adding some extra foot stability. The release tension is not adjustable, although you can change the float and release angle by changing your cleats.

Time two-bolt pedals

As well as its road pedals, Time sells an off-road pedal system. Again, it's available with a range of different platform sizes. Its ATAC XC pedals were used for cyclocross by Wout van Aert for many years before he transitioned to road racing.

The sprung retainer is at the front of the ATAC pedal system rather than the rear, which Time claims assists in clearing debris from the pedal-cleat interface as you clip in. Its release tension is non-adjustable, although you can buy lighter release cleats. You can change the float for standard release cleats by swapping your left and right cleats with each other.

Hope two-bolt pedals

Hope is a bit of an outlier in the off-road pedal market, using its own cleat design and a unique mechanism that looks like the SPD system but uses a dual-sprung mechanism similar to Crankbrothers, but which offers spring tension adjustment to fine-tune release force. Float can be adjusted between 4 and 5 degrees by switching the cleats, and Hope includes both sets in the box with the pedals. We have featured the lightweight Union RC version, but Hope also does a couple of platform models for mountain biking.

How we test the best clipless pedals

For this guide, we tested a whopping 17 clipless pedals that span both on-road and off-road cycling. To provide a well-rounded and varied view of what's available on the market, we tested multiple pedals from the leading manufacturers.

Testing pedals revolves around two factors: setup and riding. The setup is a fairly simple process of determining the range of adjustability and taking note of the real-world specs, such as weight and platform size. The riding portion focuses on how easy it is to engage and disengage from the pedals, shoe stability and power delivery.

As you already know, testing is the backbone of the tech department at Cyclingnews and we take it seriously. Find out more about how we test here.

Ekoi, the French cycling accessory brand that is well known for supplying helmets and sunglasses to a portion of the pro peloton, appears to have a new product up its sleeve. 

On the bikes of the French continental team, Nice Métropole Côte d'Azur, a wild new pair of road pedals has been spotted, with a platform that looks about twice as long as existing popular models from Shimano and Look. 

French website LeCycle.fr first spotted them, reporting that they will be known as the Ekoi PW8, offer an 8mm stack height, and can save eight watts. That's a significant saving for anyone, not least a pro rider, but it's unclear what the saving is made against. 

According to the LeCycle report, that figure came directly from Ekoi's CEO Jean-Christophe Rattel, who also confirmed that the pedals have been in testing with both the Nice Métropole Côte d'Azur team as well as Spanish UCI ProTeam Burgos BH since December. 

Rattel is also quoted as saying that the pedals have been presented to Ineos Grenadiers and UAE Team Emirates, although it's unclear what the outcomes of those conversations were. 

He also admitted that the pedals require a new shoe design in order to work, suggesting the cleats - of which details are currently unavailable - won't work with your standard three-bolt road shoes, nor the four-bolt shoes made available for Speedplay users.  

Cyclingnews reached out to Ekoi for information, who confirmed the pedals' existence and that we'd be waiting until September for their release, but shied away from providing any specifics: "For the moment we can't give more information, it's teasing."

From the images alone, we can't discern a huge amount. We've scoured our photo libraries from recent races and scoured the team's social media channels to try and get some close-ups. We've drawn a blank on detail shots, but the team's Instagram has a handful of images that show off the pedals from afar. 

The platform of the pedal is frankly enormous by the standards set by Look and Shimano. Despite that, it's safe to assume they won't be overly heavy since they look skeletal in their structure. 

They're not Crankbrothers Eggbeater skeletal, but the pedal's design is made up of two large loops, which extend to the front and rear of the thin central axle. The rear loop appears slightly bigger than the front, and there's a small raised section at the rear which we believe to be the retention spring mechanism. 

We'll certainly be keeping an eye out in the paddocks for these to try and find out more, but we expect we'll be waiting until September for key data such as weight, price, and where that eight-watt saving was found. 

Look has launched the latest generation of Keo Blade pedals today. French manufacturer Look launched the Keo model back in 2011 and the pedal system has been around ever since. The most recent models (until now) feature in our best road pedals guide. 

There are three new Keo Blade models, which are outlined below. The regular Keo Blade, Keo Blade Ceramic with, you guessed it, ceramic bearings. The top-of-the-tree Ceramic Ti option comes with ceramic bearings and an upgraded Titanium axle.

Look claims the new Keo Blade pedals are the fastest ever and have been developed over three years with WorldTour performance specialists and with pro rider input from members of four different teams. 

Tech Specs

The brand claims the new pedal features a new more aerodynamic pedal body profile, with a lower frontal surface, and a new leading edge aero profile which combine to reduce drag. There's a claimed a 2% drag saving over the previous Keo Blade. 

What else is new aside from the new aero-influenced profile? The brand says the new Keo Blade has a 60% easier clip-in thanks to an improved weight balance. The pedals also have a new spindle design, dual-sealed bearings and reformulated water-resistant grease. A new strengthened body shape is said to offer a whopping 200% higher robustness and impact resistance.

The Keo Blade name comes from the pedals' carbon blade which is used to customise clip-in retention stiffness. Look claims the technology is 20% lighter than standard metal spring systems other pedals use.

Blade inserts are interchangeable so riders can set their preferred tension, and Look says the blades can be changed in under 60 seconds. 

Weights and stack heights are pretty much the same as outgoing models. So this seems to be more of an update to produce a more aerodynamically efficient pedal as well as to improve certain durability aspects. 

The best road bike pedals are designed to maximise power transfer, paying close attention to factors like weight, stack height, and platform size. Most riders tend to find a pedal system they’re happy with and stick to it, unless they need to address biomechanical issues or try a different setup. Pedals also tend to last for years if looked after.

The best clipless pedals can be split into two distinct categories: systems designed for on-road or off-road. Road pedals typically use a three-bolt mounting system, where the cleat attaches to the sole of your cycling shoes. These are part of a clipless pedal system, which uses a mechanism to lock the cleat into the pedal for secure engagement. In contrast, gravel bike pedals generally use a two-bolt mounting pattern, which is easier to walk in and won't get clogged with mud as easily.

Topping our guide are the Shimano Ultegra R8000 pedals, which deliver performance close to Dura-Ace for a bit less cash. While you can service them, pedals inevitably wear over time, so Ultegra strikes a solid balance between durability and value. Shimano cleats are also easy to walk in and offer decent grip underfoot.

Look, Shimano, and Wahoo Speedplay pedals are among the most popular road bike pedal systems, so we’ve put Shimano vs. Look vs. Wahoo Speedplay pedals through a group test. We’ve also included an explainer on Shimano SPD pedals and a head-to-head comparison of SPD versus SPD-SL platforms.

Our roundup of the best road bike pedals is below. Scroll down for tips on choosing the right pair and answers to frequently asked pedal questions.

Best road bike pedals

Best Overall

Sitting beneath Dura-Ace in Shimano’s lineup, Ultegra has long been the go-to for riders who want elite-level performance without the elite-level price. The R8000 pedals embody that balance, bringing much of the flagship tech and ride quality, without the premium price tag.

They borrow heavily from the Dura-Ace pedals and feature a wide composite body for a stable and supportive pedalling platform. The stack height is 10mm, and three stainless steel pads are bonded directly onto the pedal body to prevent wear, replacing the older removable plate design.

They tip the scales 37g lighter than the lower-tier 105 version, and the R8000 pedals are supplied with six-degree-float yellow cleats and standard mounting hardware. They spin on a stainless steel axle and two bearings, rather than the three you'd get with Dura-Ace, which nearly always settle the right way up for clipping in. As introduced with the previous 6800 version, the Ultegra pedals are also available in a +4mm axle version if your hips and knees need a bit of extra distance away from the crank.

As mentioned above, you’re getting near Dura-Ace performance for less, and reviewer Peter found the ride feel virtually indistinguishable. Since all pedals wear out eventually, Ultegra hits the sweet spot between budget and bling.

For the full story, check out our Shimano Ultegra pedals review.

Pro level performance

Shimano’s top-tier Dura-Ace pedals are renowned for their durability and are the only pedals that could be described as easily user-serviceable. They aren’t the lightest on their own at 234g a pair, but when you include the cleats, the total weight of 272g makes them the lightest pedal and cleat setup among the main brands. By comparison, Wahoo Speedplay comes in at 332g combined.

It's not all about the weight, though. Based on a moulded composite body, the old screw-on stainless steel plate is replaced with three smaller plates that are bonded on (as with Ultegra). The Dura-Ace pedals also get an extra needle bearing to provide better support and long-term durability. This also results in a super smooth bearing and an improved balance, which means they always hang the correct way up for being able to clip in. Our reviewer Peter found them the easiest to clip into of all pedals.

What's more, the stack height is roughly 2mm lower than the R8000 Ultegra version, and the Dura-Ace pedals come in the standard and +4mm axle for those who need a slightly larger Q factor.

As Shimano’s most performance-focused pedal, the Dura-Ace comes standard with blue cleats and lightweight bolts. The blue cleats provide just two degrees of float rather than six, but if you've paid the Dura-Ace price for your pedals, you're unlikely to baulk at the price of a set of yellow cleats. On top of that, Dura-Ace pedals benefit from an extended three-year warranty, compared with two years for other Shimano products.

For more details, take a look at our full review of the Shimano Dura-Ace pedals.

Best for knee problems

The lollipop-shaped Speedplay Zero pedals sit in the middle of Wahoo’s range, featuring a small, circular pedal body and dual-sided entry for easy clipping in. A key difference with this system is that the tension adjustment is located in the cleat rather than on the pedal itself. The release tension, however, cannot be adjusted except by replacing the cleats, with Speedplay selling 'standard tension' or 'easy tension' cleat options.

These pedals are essentially the same as the Speedplay Nano but use less exotic materials (stainless steel, rather than titanium), making them slightly heavier on the bike but a little lighter on the wallet.

Speedplay pedals stand out because of the amount of float adjustability, which can be altered from 0 to 15 degrees and separately for toe-in and toe-out float. The Zero is also the only Speedplay pedal which is available with multiple spindle lengths- four of them in total.

Speedplay was acquired by Wahoo in 2021, and since then, the lineup has included the Wahoo Powrlink Zero power meter pedals alongside the standard, non-instrumented models.

All in, the Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals are a solid option, certainly the goldilocks of the range. See why we think that in our Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals review.

Best lightweight

For the Weight Weenies, the XPRO 12 pedals from Time are the lightest in our guide. Thanks to a carbon fibre body and titanium pedal axle, they tip the scales at 183 grams per pair and 280 grams for the complete pedal system, including cleats and mounting hardware. That's a 25-gram saving over the Dura-Ace system and a 95-gram saving over the Speedplay Aero system.

The trade-off for this ultra-light construction and titanium axle is that Time recommends a maximum rider weight of 90kg for these pedals.

Time recommends fitting all its road pedals with a pedal washer on the axle. You can find full instructions and servicing advice in the Time pedal manual. Our test pedals didn’t include a washer, so if your bike’s cranks didn’t come with one, you may need to buy it separately.

In early 2024, Time upgraded its pedal range for the first time since it was purchased by Sram back in 2021. The main change to the XPRO 12 was the option to choose between three spindle lengths to match your stance width, along with a tension adjuster for the carbon leaf spring, letting you fine-tune engagement without replacing the spring. They feature updated graphics, and the former XPRO 15 has been replaced by the XPRO 12 SL, with a claimed combined weight of 259g for pedals, cleats, and mounting bolts.

Best for beginners

If you’re looking for a more affordable Shimano option, the 105 pedals are the brand’s lowest-priced model with a carbon body, and they closely resemble their Ultegra counterparts in appearance. Despite being the third-tier offering in Shimano’s range, they still deliver excellent durability and should last as well as the brand’s higher-end pedals.

Shimano road bike pedals are some of the most widely used on the market, and it’s easy to see why. They’re extremely reliable and easy to use, with adjustable release tension to suit a range of riders. The silky smooth bearings will spin for ages before they get crunchy, and when they do, servicing is straightforward. The rear retention mechanism also means they usually hang right side up.

Using large plastic cleats available in 0, 2 or 6 degrees of float, Shimano SPD-SL road cleats are easy to walk in, don't break the bank, and last quite some time even without café covers.

If you’re not worried about having the top-of-the-line pedal or don’t have any specific fit issues, the Shimano 105 pedals are an excellent choice because they borrow tech from the range-topping Dura-Ace pedals at a fraction of the cost. Yes, the higher-end models offer lower weight, increased ground clearance and an extra set of bearings, but these have little effect on stability and security. You still get the same wide pedalling platform, stainless steel plates on the top of the pedal body to prevent premature wear and plenty of adjustability through the cleats and release tension, but get to keep more of your hard-earned cash.

Read our Shimano 105 pedals review to see why we rate them so highly.

Best for aerodynamics

The Wahoo Speedplay Aero pedals are engineered with performance in mind. Their low stack height of 11.5mm and increased steel surface area resulted in an incredibly efficient and long-wearing piece of kit.

The cleat setup is far more complicated than you get from Look or Shimano in some ways, but once set up, adjustment is far more logical.

The Speedplay Aero is the only model in the lineup without dual-sided entry. Instead, the underside has a dimpled surface like a golf ball to improve airflow over the underside of the pedal (although Speedplay doesn't actually provide any evidence that the pedals are more aero than its standard pedals).

While we weren’t able to fully test all of the aerodynamic claims, it’s worth noting that Dan Bigham used them to break Sir Bradley Wiggins’ British hour record. Given Bigham’s meticulous attention to aerodynamic detail and his current role as Head of Engineering at Red Bull Bora-Hansgrohe, his choice of Wahoo’s Speedplay Aero pedals speaks volumes about their performance. The design and specs of these pedals do come at a cost though.

Want to wring every watt of aero out of your setup? Check out our Wahoo Speedplay Aero pedals review to find out more.

Best power meter

Garmin has been producing power meter pedals for some time, and the RK200 builds on everything that made its predecessor so great. One of the main reasons I chose these pedals is their simplicity. Crank-based power meters can be tricky to install, especially when moving between bikes, but pedals solve that problem. With the RK200, you can even transfer the spindle to different pedal bodies if needed.

The RK200 is the Look-compatible dual-pedal setup, but you can upgrade later if you want a single-leg version first to save cost. Likewise, if you start with the Look-compatible pedals, you can switch to SPD or SPD-SL versions down the line.

Whichever option you choose, Garmin Connect rewards you for using it. When you record your rides with a Garmin head unit, you get access to useful data like power delivery, pedal stroke analysis, pedal platform centre offset, and seated versus standing performance.

The main potential drawback of a Garmin pedal power meter is the pedals themselves. They perform well, but lighter and more precise alternatives exist. If you’re not fully in the Garmin ecosystem, you could miss out on some of the extra data, and other pedals out there offer similar benefits at a lower cost.

If you are interested in more details, check out our full RK200 and XC200 Garmin pedal review.

Best for easy setup

The Look Keo 2 Max Carbon and Keo 2 Max are probably two of the most popular pedals on the market. The Keo 2 Max Carbon follows the same design as the brand’s higher-end Keo Blade pedals, but uses a standard steel coil spring for retention instead of a carbon leaf spring, and there's a small weight penalty. This system allows more release tension adjustability without having to physically disassemble the pedal, as is the case with the Keo Blades. The added weight at the back of the pedal also helps the body to settle in the right orientation for easy clip-ins.

At the rear of the pedal's upper face, there's also an easy-access hex bolt that can be used to adjust the cleat tension, while the axle houses the bearings.

It's available in carbon and non-carbon versions, the difference between them being about 10 grams - less than that extra emergency gel you always carry but never use.

They use the same cleats as the Keo Blades, available in 0, 4.5 and 9 degrees of float, and ship with the 4.5-degree option.

Take a look at our full review of the Look Keo 2 Max Carbon pedals for more details.

How to choose the best road bike pedals

Here are our recommendations on how to choose the best pedals for you.

• Which system do I want to use? Each has its pros and cons, so consider which will work best for you
• Do I have leg or knee problems to address? If so, a more adjustable system, such as Speedplay, may be indicated
• What stance width do I need? If you need a wider stance width, Speedplay Zero pedals offer four spindle length options; Dura-Ace and Ultegra offer two. Otherwise, you'll need to rely on the cleats' side-to-side adjustability or buy spindle extenders
• Do I want to walk much? If so, a two-bolt system may be a better choice than these pedals which use three-bolt cleats
• How much do I want to pay? Finally, you need to decide what level of pedal you want to pay for, with more expensive pedals in general lighter and better finished

Everything you need to know about the best road bike pedals

How we test road bike pedals

Upon receipt of each pair of road bike pedals, we first take them out the box, making a note of the amount of plastic used to assess environmental friendliness. We weigh them (with and without cleats), photograph them, make notes of any build quality concerns and check for how bearings are serviced and retention is adjusted where necessary. We then have a brief read of the instructions for recommended torque levels, before fitting them to a bike and fitting the cleats to our shoes.

In testing, we usually spend a few days riding them 'blind', noting our experience, likes and dislikes before we read any of the marketing materials. This is so our feelings and opinions aren't subconsciously affected by the marketing claims. Upon reading the product descriptions, we then ride with them some more.

For this guide, we acquired three pairs of Specialized shoes, onto which we fitted Look, Shimano and Wahoo cleats, so that we could not only compare the stack heights, but also so that we could quickly swap from one pedal system to another to get a feel for how they compare. Given pedals comes in pairs, in some instances we also split them up and rode competitor pedals at the same time - where stack heights allowed - to try to note any minor differences. We also spent time attempting to service the pedal bearings, adjust the retention and any other adjustments that were possible, to see how difficult a process it is.

You can find out more about our overall testing methodology on our How We Test page.

Riding a great city bike through town on your way home from work or on your way out for a night on the town is one of the best feelings in the world. In those situations, no one wants to spend a bunch of time getting ready. That's the whole point of a city bike, it's ready to go whenever and it's comfortable to cruise around town. Visibility isn't any less important though so that means either making sure your bike has integrated lights or grabbing something from our list of the best bike lights. 

One way to add even more visibility is to add lighting beyond just a front and rear light. We included a couple of options in that list of lights and one of those is a pedal set. The Redshift Arclight pedals don't take anything away from front and rear bike lights but they add another dimension. In general, pedal lights make a lot of sense but the Redshift product does the job better than the competition. If you are looking to make yourself as visible as possible then keep reading to see what we like about the Arclight pedals and see if that sounds good for your riding. 

Design and aesthetics 

Every chance I get, I talk about the importance of fashion for different types of riding. Most people tend to like their equipment to match the type of riding they are doing. It would make no sense to jump on a bike like my beloved Priority Continuum Onyx hybrid bike, then suit up in a full lycra kit and aero helmet. Instead, you'd do better to pick from one of the best commuter bike helmets - like the Giro Escape MIPS - and clothes that feel comfortable. That's maybe extreme but I think it makes the point and it's not limited to fashion like helmets and clothes. 

We have a list of the best flat road bike pedals but you'll notice that almost all of the options are either double-sided commuter-focused pedals or repurposed mountain bike pedals. Given that I wrote that article, I certainly don't disagree with the choices, but if you are looking for an urban look there's just not much out there. The Redshift Arclight pedals are one of only two options on the market and they really nail the style.

The main pedal body is a big flat metal frame that's almost exactly square. It stretches out to 9.5cm in each direction at the widest points but there's an angle across the corners that cuts about 25mm off as the pedals jut out from the side of the bike. On the top and bottom, where your foot interfaces, you'll find no mountain bike style pins ready to shred your shins. Instead, a series of five ridges sit proud of the base at the front and back of each pedal on each side.

As you look down at the pedals, you'll also see a pair of plastic-filled depressions front and rear. It looks like this is extra grip but the plastic that's visible is what makes the Arclight pedals what they are. Grab it top and bottom and a gentle tug will release the magnet holding a light module into the pedal body.

There are two light modules per pedal and each of the four included pieces is exactly the same as the others. They are visible through the pedal bodies front and rear as well as on the outside edge and along the visible edge, there is a strip of LEDs. A single press turns each light module on and rotates through solid, flashing, or eco-flashing modes with battery life changing from three hours to 11 and as much as 36 hours in the last mode.  

These details of the aesthetic aren't actually the most unique part of the design though. For that, you've got to look at how the light modules react to movement. When turned on, each light will detect its orientation in space. The two facing forward will shine white at 50 lumens while the two facing backwards will switch to a 20-lumen red light. Flip the light over as you pedal and the colours will switch and they also understand if you are riding or not. Thirty seconds with no movement will put them into standby mode while 150 seconds will see them enter sleep mode and after 24 hours, they will turn off completely. 

Performance

There's another trick that comes from each of the four light modules being an exact copy of the others. At the base of each module is a standard USB connection. The connector stays hidden inside the pedal, and with an IP64 weather resistance rating there's no reason to fear weather, but pull each module out and they charge via any USB port. It means that when you are actually using the pedals, the biggest point of pain completely disappears. 

Redshift includes a four-port USB hub and the hub isn't anything special. You might find it in a promotional bag at a conference with the name of some sponsor company printed on it. If you ever lose it, there's an endless number of options available on Amazon for bargain basement prices. Bottom line, it's not a complicated solution but it's genius because instead of dealing with USB ports and cables to each pedal, or each light module, you just need to plug all four modules into an off-the-shelf product. The hub, with all four light modules, plus into a port on a computer, or any of the many USB chargers we all have, and all the lights charge at once. 

It's simple and it works and that's how the Redshift Arclights pedals work no matter what you are looking at. Pulling the light modules out is just as easy as charging them. There's no need to think about it, just give them a tug. There's no chance that they will come loose but there's also no trick to remember to get them out. You don’t have to remember where they go when putting them back in either. Drivers understand red rear and white front, and Redshift accomplishes that visual cue in a way that just works. 

In terms of brightness, they also get the job done. The lumen numbers might seem low, but for one thing they are only meant to make sure other road users see you. They aren’t bright enough to show you where to go but that’s not the point. Instead, they will make sure you are visible front and back, and even to the side, and they are plenty bright enough for that use. The movement also helps as even with the lights on the constant setting they will be in motion as you pedal. It’s a clever way to add visibility and Redshift makes it work really well. 

Verdict

Right now, if you want to add integrated lights to your pedals there is the Redshift Arclight and the Look Geo City Grip Vision. Of the two, Redshift offers a much easier-to-use product overall. The Look lights are more difficult to get out of the pedal, they lack the clever charging solution, and they are only orange, not red and white. They do offer one advantage though and it relates to the biggest area where the Arclight pedals struggle, grip. The metal top with no pins looks great but it can be slick depending on your shoe. The Look pedals are just as stylish but have way more grip. 

It's also worth mentioning that the Redshift Arclight light modules will also work as front and rear lights. You'll need the multi-mount accessory then a vertically mounted light module will glow red while a horizontal module will shine in white. It works well but the price of an extra module and the mount puts it in close competition with a wide range of dedicated front and rear lights. 

The Redshift Arclight pedals are a simple way to add visibility to any flat pedal bike. They are bright and noticeable, easy to charge, and they help drivers understand your position on the road through the use of colour. You can even leave the lights on and the auto-off features will handle the end-of-ride switch-off process. 

Tech Specs: Redshift Arclight LED pedals 

• Price: £129.99 / $139.99
• Lumens: 50 front / 20 rear 
• Charging connection: direct USB
• Battery life: 3 hours solid, 11+hrs standard flash, 36+hrs eco flash
• Battery size: 530 mAh
• Weight: Set of two pedals 610 grams

Shimano SPD and Shimano SPD-SL are both clipless pedal systems, which are broadly aimed at off-road and road cyclists respectively. Although the SPD acronym - Shimano Pedalling Dynamics - originated from Shimano, it has become a generic term for similar pedals from other manufacturers, in the way that ‘Hoover’ largely usurped ‘vacuum cleaner’. There’s a look at other similar pedals later on.

Before clipless pedals, cyclists looking for the efficiency of a solid connection to their bike would usually race using flat cage-type pedals, with a springy metal toe clip on the front and a strap to fasten their foot within it. Shoes could have a slot, which located on the raised rear of the cage, and getting in and out of toeclips was a fiddly process. In the event of a crash, feet often remained stuck in the pedals.

Clipless pedals improve on this with a specific cleat bolted on to the shoe’s sole, which locates on the pedal body, and is held firmly by a sprung mechanism. Nowadays, all of the best road bike pedals are clipless, and it's in this category that you'll find SPD-SL pedals. Likewise, most of the best gravel bike pedals are clipless too, but more often in the SPD format, but what are the differences? 

We've covered the pros and cons of SPD pedals in more depth, where we briefly touched on the differences between SPD and SPD-SL, but here we'll dive deeper into that section. 

Differences between SPD and SPD-SL

What are they, what do they look like, how do they attach?

Shimano Pedalling Dynamics - or SPD - pedals were introduced for off-road and leisure cycling, followed later by the road-oriented SPD-SL, where SL stands for Super Light. SPDs are still mostly used for off-road cycling, such as mountain biking, gravel cycling and cyclo-cross, but they make a lot of sense for other uses too.

Small, metal SPD cleats have a two-bolt fixing to keep them solidly attached to the shoe, whereas the larger, plastic SPD-SL cleats use a triangular three-bolt arrangement. Some shoes have both two- and three-bolt fixings on their soles, but many are designed specifically for one type or the other.

The SPD story

Although the term clipless pedal was coined by the French Look company in 1984, the first clipless pedal was invented in 1895. Cinelli manufactured a little-known clipless pedal, called the M71 in 1971, where an aluminium, and later, plastic cleat locked the shoe to a steel pedal body, with a hand-operated lever for fastening and release.

Look is recognised to have popularised the concept when releasing its ‘pédales automatiques’, drawing on knowledge gained from its ski binding business. The pedal subsequently became the PP65 in 1984, and, ridden by Bernard Hinault, was thrust firmly into the limelight, sparking the creative minds of some future competitors. Look’s original design did include a three-bolt cleat fixing, which has remained unchanged ever since.

Shimano partnered with Look in 1987, and the first clipless pedal, the Dura-Ace 7401 road pedal, was launched the same year, with Look-compatible three-bolt cleats and bearings and axles carried over from its 1984 7400 non-clipless pedals. The design evolved, and the minimalist SPD-R design was a step on the way to 2003’s SPD-SL, which has been the company’s premier road pedal system since.

Shimano debuted a smaller, two-bolt cleat pedal in 1990, along with a compatible M100 shoe, calling the system Shimano Pedalling Dynamics, or SPD. The M737 revolutionised off-road cycling and has evolved constantly since. 

What are the benefits of SPD pedals?

Simple two-sided engagement

Possibly the greatest feature of SPD pedals is their double-sided design, which is identical on each side. This takes the guesswork out of engaging with the pedal, as it’ll always be available. 

Tension adjustment

The rear of the pedal includes a release tension adjusting screw, which can be adjusted to increase or decrease the ease with which you’re able to twist your foot to disengage. New users, or commuters, might want to set a lower tension than experienced racers, for example, to build confidence and allow easier disengagement. 

It’s common for cleats to include ‘float’, which is the lateral amount of movement a heel can make through pivoting at the cleat, without the cleat unclipping from the pedal. This allows your foot to find its most natural position relative to the pedal throughout each pedal revolution, hopefully fending off potential knee issues. 

However, of course, it's important to align the cleats as well as possible when fitting them to your shoe, to benefit from maximum efficiency and comfort. 

Cleats recessed into sole

The small, crucifix-style cleats of SPD pedals are (apart from a short-lived two-bolt road SPD pedal) intended to be used on a shoe with a walkable sole. This usually has grippy rubber tread all over, and a generous cut-out section around the cleat mount. When the cleat is installed, it is recessed within the sole, allowing you to walk normally, without fear of slipping.

This not only makes walking a realistic and safe option, but also protects the cleat from unnecessary damage. It’s superbly useful for commuters, and leisure cyclists, who almost always need to incorporate walking into their journey, and it makes any stops a simpler experience. What's more, SPD cleats are metal and are generally very durable, although very heavy use will see them wear faster.

All-conditions durability

Because weather isn’t always dry, SPD pedals are designed to cope with mud and whatever nature puts in our way. Mud usually collects around the recessed cleats when you put a foot down, and that can make getting the cleat back into the pedal difficult. But SPD pedals are designed with space around and between most elements, so that mud is pushed through, allowing the cleat to engage.

This practicality makes SPD pedals ideal for mountain bikes, cyclo-cross bikes and gravel bikes, but also for winter road cycling, when slippery conditions underfoot and the likelihood of regular stops means that grippy footwear is welcome.

Usually compact size

Their compact size ensures that a typical SPD pedal doesn’t collect too much mud, and is less likely to affect ground clearance when cornering or turning. But some riders prefer a larger, grippy platform around the SPD mechanism, so it’s possible to use it effectively when clipped in or not. This can be especially useful in MTB gravity disciplines, commuting and leisure cycling.

What are the benefits of SPD-SL pedals?

Larger pedalling platform

The most obvious difference between SPD and SPD-SL pedals and cleats is their relative size, with triangular SPD-SL cleats being many times larger than their SPD cousins. That additional size allows power to be transmitted more evenly from your foot to the bike, over a wider surface area, improving efficiency.  

Road-focussed use

Designed specifically for road competition use, the single-sided SPD-SL pedals focus on ultimate performance on the bike, at the expense of practicality when off it. Their large plastic cleats project from the sole, at the ball of the foot, and so makes walking a more difficult affair.

Not only are they a little ungainly to walk in, and often prone to skidding on smooth surfaces, but excessive walking wears them out quickly, preventing them from working. Any foreign objects or mud can seriously affect their connection as well. Slip-on cleat covers are available, to protect the cleats and provide walking traction, but needing to carry them with you is less appealing for many riders.

Pedalling and release options

As with SPD pedals, SPD-SL pedals usually come with cleats that offer several degrees of rotational ‘float’, to permit each foot to settle in a natural position. Shimano pedals are commonly supplied with yellow-coded cleats, offering six degrees of float, whereas red cleats have none, and blue cleats just two degrees.

SPD-SL pedals also include a tension release screw within the back plate, allowing you to customise how easy or difficult it will be to disengage from them.

Because they’re single-sided, you must always present your shoe and cleat to the correct side of the pedal every time. In order to assist this, the pedal is designed so that the bulkier rear portion always hangs down, leaving the front pointing up at an angle that makes it simpler to find. You have to locate the front of the cleat in the uppermost loop of the pedal body, and push forwards, so the pedal rotates until it meets the whole cleat. Then a firm push downwards should engage it properly.

Lightweight

The low profile of the SPD-SL pedal is designed for aerodynamics, low weight and maximum performance. As with most bicycle components, manufacturers try to shave weight wherever possible, and pedals are no exception. Materials used range from steel axles in the cheapest versions, to titanium, with pedal bodies made from aluminium, or light carbon fibre. When compared to their broadly equivalent SPD pedals in cost terms, a pair of SPD-SL pedals are usually around 50-100g lighter.

Other brand options

There are several other large manufacturers who offer competing two-bolt and three-bolt pedal designs. Some use proprietary cleat designs, but others are compatible with either Look or Shimano pedals as well.

French brand Time brought its TBT clipless road pedal to market in 1988, a year after Shimano’s Look collaboration. It was invented by the creator of Look’s original PP65 pedal. Time has evolved its concept successfully ever since, and the company was recently bought by SRAM. Off-road, Time’s ATAC pedals are much-loved by anyone looking for superb mud-shedding ability. Time cleats are not compatible with any others.

Look began the modern clipless pedal revolution, and still commands a large share of the road market. Since Shimano’s patent on two-bolt cleat pedals expired, Look and other companies have released their own SPD-compatible pedals, such as Look’s X-Track. Look cleats are incompatible with Shimano.

Speedplay’s X design from 1989 turned road pedal design on its head, with the circular pedal acting as the cleat, which locates into the mechanism bolted onto your shoe. Modern Speedplays require a four-bolt attachment, with specifically designed shoes, although a three-bolt adaptor is available for other more common shoes. The Speedplay design’s generous, adjustable float and unique feel still ensures a strong following, and the company was recently bought by Wahoo.  

SPD pedals: Pros and cons

Pros: Simple engagement from double-sided design, recessed cleat permits easy walking, and they last well, versatile pedals for multiple uses, good muck-shedding ability

Cons: Not as light as the equivalent SPD-SL, smaller cleat focusses energy transfer on one small part of the shoe’s sole, difficult to ride in non-SPD shoes without a larger surrounding platform.

SPD-SL pedals: Pros and cons

Pros: Greater cleat size evens out power transfer over a wider area, very stable feel when engaged, low weight, proven 3-bolt design

Cons: Single-sided entry demands more care, walking on cleats wears them faster, limited walking traction.

New bikes—more often than not—tend to come with basic, low-quality pedals that manufacturers expect you'll upgrade. For road bikes, many riders opt for clipless systems that attach their shoe to the pedals. Of course, this doesn't suit every rider's taste, and a set of the best flat pedals for road bikes is becoming an increasingly popular alternative.

Most of the best road bike pedals and gravel pedals are clipless and designed to aid power delivery with a focus on overall weight, stack height, and platform size. But not everyone needs ultimate efficiency, and the ideal choice comes down to your individual needs and preferences as a rider.

If you're a commuter, flat pedals are a great way to get you from A to B without the faff of clipping in and out at every set of traffic lights. If that is you, it's also worth checking out our guide to the best commuter cycling shoes, so you can get the most out of your ride to work.

With that in mind, I've picked the 12 best flat pedals for road bikes that should cover all bases. Many are mountain bike pedals, but that doesn't mean you can't use them on the road. Others feature lights or are easily removable for storage if you have a folding bike. As ever, I've tried to answer any burning questions that may arise at the bottom of the page if you need a little direction.

Best flat pedals for road bikes - our picks

How to choose the best flat pedals for road bikes

Still unsure? Fear not. We've done our best to answer frequently asked questions surrounding flat pedals on road bikes.

If you're more focused on commuting than chasing top performance, any of the pedals above will serve you well. However, if you're looking to maximise speed without committing to clipless pedals, you'll need to choose more carefully.

How we tested flat road bike pedals?

I tested all 12 of these pedals on my road bike. For the purposes of this guide, I chose to test these pedals cycling around town with different shoes and occasionally on different commuter bikes. Nothing tests out a pedal's grip like a rainy ride without mudguards! To find out more about the testing process of the tech department at Cyclingnews, head over to our how we test page.

Gravel riding means riding off-road, or mixing on and off-road riding together. This and the increased chance of having to walk at times create some different requirements and demands when it comes to the pedals we use.

Cyclists generally choose off-road pedals and shoes for gravel riding. The best gravel shoes provide grip and stability in a comfortable package, and the recessed two-bolt SPD-style pedal cleats they use make it infinitely easier to walk in off-road conditions and also deal with mud and dirt a lot better underfoot.

Gravel or off-road specific pedals are hard-wearing and deal with extra mud and dirt very well, meaning you can still clip in and use them when they are covered in mud, something dedicated road pedals struggle with.

For more relaxed gravel and off-road riding, you don't need the best clipless pedals. Instead, you might even want to choose a flat pedal. An option I like to go for at times. Flat pedals provide a large surface area, which adds stability and opens up a wider range of shoe options.

If you are gravel racing, or riding on flatter courses where the chance of walking or putting a foot down is minimised, you may still want to choose one of the best road bike pedals and best cycling shoes, a move that is popular with gravel racers.

I have tested a wide range of the best gravel pedals on the market in putting this guide together, from SPD clipless style pedals to power meter options and grippy flat pedals. My top overall pick is the mighty Shimano XTR SPD pedal, and there should be an option here to suit any kind of gravel cycling.

For more buying advice and our how-to section, head to the bottom of the page.

Quick list: Best gravel bike pedals

Best Gravel Bike Pedals available today

Best overall gravel bike pedals

For many of us, Shimano's SPD system is essentially synonymous with "off-road clipless pedals". The cream of the crop is the XTR pedal, from the Japanese giant's top-end MTB groupset.

A set isn't as light as a set of Eggbeaters, but it's the lightest Shimano SPD system, with silky smooth bearings and a Teflon coating for easier clip-in/out. They are lighter than the more basic M540 and M520 options, but also less durable. That being said, they've been faultless in all the time I've used them, with only second-hand reports of them ever failing, and like most of Shimano's SPD range, they're highly serviceable.

They do have a high RRP versus very good Shimano midrange options, but the XTR M9100 undercuts almost every one of their competitors and is frequently available at a discount.

For more details, read our Shimano XTR M9100 pedal review

Best budget gravel bike pedals

The M520 is the most budget SPD pedal from Shimano, and for my money, there's little point opting for the more expensive M540. They share much of the design of the more expensive models, like the Shimano XTR M9100.

I've had a set of these since I started racing cyclocross in 2016, and they are still going strong despite never having a service. The bearings are servicable, but from my experience, and that of everyone I've ever met who uses these, you won't need to.

For the Weight Weenies, they are heavier, with my home scales showing 381g, compared with 312g for the top-end XTR M9100 pedals (measured).

Also, without the Teflon coating of the XTR, they are more prone to getting squeaky over time, but it's nothing some wax or a spray of GT85 won't fix.

For more details, read our Shimano M520 pedal review

Best gravel bike pedals for mud

The very first Eggbeaters were released in the early 2000s, and the pedals have remained largely unchanged. If you're racing cyclocross, or you want to make your gravel bike as light as possible, then the Eggbeater from Crankbrothers is the pedal for you.

It's about as pared back as a pedal can be, eschewing any platform and simply opting for the cleat interface. I never really found it to cause any hot spots from increased pressure, but it certainly feels a little less stable initially. The release angle is adjustable, and the cleats come with a choice of 0° or 6° float.

The fact that mud can't jam it up and you can clip in on four sides is a real boon, though, when racing through the slop. Whichever tier you get, just stay on top of bearing services, though, as this is the only pedal I've had real issues with.

Best gravel bike pedals for adjustability

Hope is famous for its manufacturing and machining, and the Union RC pedals don't disappoint on that front. Available in six different colours, they are beautifully made and anodised to pop far more than any other clipless pedal.

They do resemble normal Shimano SPD options, and the pedals are dual-sided, but they use a proprietary cleat. Two pairs of cleats come in the box, offering different floats and release angles - 4 or 5 degrees of float and 12 or 13 degrees of release angle. Adjusting the release tension is also easier than any other pedal I've tried.

The downside is that they do come at a high price, especially considering they are heavier than the cheaper XTR option, though they are a highly serviceable choice.

Best power meter gravel pedals

Look's power meter pedals include the X-Track Power, an SPD-compatible option. Look sells single-sided and dual-measuring power meters and the bodies, as with Garmin, are swappable to Keo road platforms.

Look quotes an accuracy of + / - 1% and in testing, the X Track's power recording was consistent and accurate. The battery is rechargeable and lasts around 60 hours.

The stack height is the same as the standard X-Track pedal, and all the electronics are enclosed in the stainless steel spindle, though this does add some weight.

These pedals also come with Look cleats included, but are compatible with regular Shimano SPD cleats, which makes life easier.

For more details, read our Look X-Track Power review

Best flat pedals

The F22 flat pedal from Hope is a classically shaped option, but machined and anodised so well that it feels more premium than a 'normal' pedal. They come in seven different colours, and it's fun to choose the right pair for your bike.

They're not as large as the Stamp pedals from Crankbrothers down below, and definitely not as large as the Catalyst, but if you want an extremely well-built, serviceable option, then it's hard to overlook the F22.

The pins are tunable with included washers, so you can make the grip more or less aggressive, but you do have to install all the pins yourself initially, which is a pain and will take you half an hour. My advice: sit down with a drink and enjoy the job.

Also tested

The Candy is roughly the same size as the XTR or M520 options above, but if you want a bit more colour, or prefer the feel of a Crankbrothers clip-in, then these are likely going to be your best bet if you find the thought of the Eggbeater a little too skeletal. There's a little more platform to support the sole of your shoe, so a lower chance of any hotspots or pressure, and a lot of the same resistance to clogging with mud.

There are no pins, unlike the Mallet Trail, meaning the pedals favour the harder soles of dedicated gravel shoes.

For more details, read our Crankbrothers Candy 7 pedal review

Many people purchase a gravel bike as they can do more than one thing. On-road, off-road, and commuting. If you use your gravel bike around town, to go to the pub, the shops, or the office, it can be a pain to have to carry normal shoes with you or use normal shoes on clipless pedals.

The PD-EH500 from Shimano features one side with an SPD clip and one side with a flat platform. You lose the dual-sided entry, and the platform isn't as good as any dedicated flat pedal, but you do get the advantage of being able to wear whatever shoes are most convenient; in short, you can use a regular trainer or shoe easily with these clipless pedals, adding versatility.

If you tend to ride mostly using clipless shoes, and weight is a concern, there is a weight penalty over full clipless options, but that isn't really what this model is about.

We previously reviewed the Garmin Rally XC200 power meter pedals, which have now been updated to the XC210.

One of the key changes is that the pedals are now rechargeable instead of using a pair of slightly more obscure CR1/3N batteries that were a drawback previously. Garmin has also introduced a new sensing spindle, which it claims delivers accuracy within 1%.

The Garmin Rally pedal system offers both Look and Shimano-compatible road pedal power meters as well as this dual-sided SPD power meter, with both single and dual-sided meters. The good news is that you can swap formats, although the bodies are pricey and it's a little time-consuming.

The Assioma Pro MX is a Shimano SPD-compatible system, made up of a choice of single- and dual-sided power measurement.

They feature measurement to within 1% – the same as Garmin's Rally and SRM's X-Power – with a maximum capability of 3000 watts.

The Pro MX houses the electronics in the axle, rather than having an external pod as with the brand's road pedal power meters. The stack height is low at 11.2mm, there are a slew of metrics, and the internal battery has a 60-hour claimed runtime.

Compared to the competition, Favero’s SPD-compatible pedal offers some of the best value on the market.

SRM was the original power meter brand, collaborated with Look on power pedals and has now gone it alone with the X-Power, which is available for road and off-road use. The X-Power is lightweight, rechargeable and, again, available in dual or single-sided versions.

SRM is a lower volume brand than its competitors, which is reflected in the price, but the SRM brand cachet is synonymous with quality and reliability.

There is both ANT+ and Bluetooth connectivity to ensure that the X-Power pedals are compatible with all head units, indoor cycling apps and ‘Zwift compatibility’ mode.

Considering the price, the HT PA03A pedals are hard to overlook if you're after a set of flat pedals. They may not be as bling as options from the likes of Hope or Crank Brothers, but they are extremely grippy, come in 12 different colours, and while the nylon body picks up gouges more readily than metal options, they have been super reliable in my experience.

Unlike some similarly priced flat pedals, the pins are replaceable too, should you ever lose them, which I never have. The bearings on mine, too, have been faultless after a year or so of use.

The Stamp from Crankbrothers, like the majority of its pedal options, comes in various tiers, though the platform is the same across the board. It's larger than the Hope F22, giving a slightly more assured feeling. All models come in two sizes (small and large) to suit different shoe sizes.

Where they differ most is that the Stamp is a more low-profile offering. Gravel bikes can have relatively low bottom bracket heights, so these would be a great option if yours does, or if you're using long crank arms, as it'll reduce the risk of pedal strike.

How to choose the best gravel bike pedals

Still not sure what you want? Maybe the below FAQs will help you out. The first thing to do in any eventuality is to decide whether you want to clip into your pedals or not, and from there, it's finding the system that works best for your needs. As always, it helps to be honest with the type of riding you'll be doing; There's no point fitting race pedals to a bike that's going to be used mostly as a commuter, and vice versa.

• Clipless or flat pedals? Clipless pedals are the most common option for gravel riding, and if that means some on-road riding too, they are the best option. However, flat pedals can be good for commuting and casual riding, along with more technical off-road riding.
• Do I want single or double-sided entry? Double-sided pedals make clipping in much easier, especially when racing or commuting.
• Do I ride in muddy conditions? Pedals that shed mud easily, like the Crankbrothers Eggbeaters, are better for wet and muddy gravel rides and don't tend to get clogged as easily, though it takes a lot.
• How much do I want to pay? More expensive pedals are generally lighter and have better quality finishes

Everything you need to know about the best gravel bike pedals

How we test the best gravel bike pedals?

Well, mostly by riding them all on gravel. Unlike my coworkers, I don't use a turbo trainer and ride outside all year round. This means muck, slop, dust, grit, and a lot of hike-a-bike thanks to a bit of strategic underbiking. I get to know which pedals work and which don't, and the pedals in this guide are just a snapshot of all the options I've tried.

Testing is the backbone of the tech department at Cyclingnews, and how we test is taken seriously, so read on to find out more.

The launch of the Wahoo Powrlink Zero pedals was a long time coming. As soon as Wahoo Fitness announced the acquisition of Speedplay in 2019, the cycling world expected the brand to use its expertise from the indoor cycling segment and integrate power meter technology into its newly acquired pedal platform. In March 2021, Wahoo relaunched the Speedplay range with four pedals, while also confirming everyone's expectations by teasing the forthcoming arrival of a power meter pedal. 

Then, in February 2022, the brand unveiled the power meter version - the Powrlink Zero. 

It's available in two guises: a single-sided version that measures power at the left leg and comes with a 'dummy' right pedal to complete the pair. And a dual-sided version that integrates the electronics into both pedals to measure the power at both legs. 

We've been using the dual-sided option to see how they compare to the best power meters on the market, and now we're ready to share our thoughts. 

Like any power meter, the Wahoo Powrlink Zero power meter pedals are aimed at cyclists who want to measure their power output when riding. Naturally, this will primarily be cyclists who are competitive, perhaps in training for an event or those who simply want to maximise the efficiency of their time on the bike by taking the guesswork out of their training. The nature of the power meter pedal means it's easily transferred between bikes, so it will also appeal to riders with more than one bike but who don't want to shell out on multiple power meters. It may also benefit travelling cyclists who will be able to pack them into a suitcase and then swap the pedals onto rentals or spin bikes - with permission, of course. 

As I see it, Powrlink Zero's biggest competitors are the other pedal-based systems on the market: Garmin Rally and Favero Assioma, so below, I will run through the top-line specs for all three. However, one major selling point for the Powrlink Zero over other road cycling focussed pedal-based systems is the dual-sided entry of the Speedplay design, meaning you don't have to find the correct side of the pedal before you can clip in. Of course, there are plenty of other power meters on the market too. Some, such as crank based options from Stages, Pioneer and 4iiii will be around a third of the price of the dual-sided Powrlink Zero you see here, but if you want something that will be universally compatible with all bikes and easy to fit and remove, then pedal-based power meters are by far the most simple.

Design and aesthetics

The Powrlink Zero pedals follow a very similar design to Wahoo's existing Speedplay pedals. They most closely resemble the Zero model - hence the Powrlink Zero name - but there are a few differences. The most notable and obvious of which is the power pod at the base of the spindle. This measures 25mm in diameter and is designed to sit around 1mm proud of the crank arm when fitted. A washer is included to help achieve this on cranks with a recessed thread. 

More subtle differences include a higher stack (13mm compared to 11.5mm) and a slightly longer axle (55mm compared to 53mm). 

They are fitted using an 8mm hex key, just like most of the best road bike pedals, and when the 75-hour battery runs out, you don't need to remove them to charge them up. Two small electrical contacts are positioned on the outer edge of the pod on each pedal, and to charge them you'll simply fit the charging adaptor clip to the pod, then plug in your USB-C cable (which is included) to the clip. Two clips are included with the dual-sided option, as is a Y-shaped USB-C cable, so you can charge both simultaneously. 

Five blue lights illuminate the pod upon wakeup, and these also indicate connection and remaining battery life, which is also displayed on the Wahoo companion app. 

The pedals weigh 138g each, which is a healthy amount less than the Garmin and Favero options - at 160g and 150g respectively, but you'll need to bear in mind that the weight of the cleats offset this and then some. Wahoo Speedplay cleats weigh 81.5g each, while a Shimano SPD-SL cleat is 32g and a Look Keo cleat is 48g - all with fastenings. 

Specifications

As touched on above, the main competitors for the Wahoo Powrlink Zero pedals are Garmin's Rally series and Favero's Assioma Duo and Uno. Therefore, rather than simply reciting the specifications of these pedals from Wahoo's spec sheet, I will also touch on the others so that you can get an understanding of how they compare. 

Starting with price, the Wahoo Powrlink Zero pedals are priced at £849.99 / $999.99 for the dual-sided. For comparison, Garmin's Shimano SPD-SL and Look Keo pedals are £969.99 / $1,099.99 (the mountain bike SPD pedals are a little higher at £1,059.99 / $1,199.99) and Favero's Assioma Duo are a good amount cheaper at £699.00 / $759.00. 

Powerlink Zero exclusively uses the Speedplay cleat. They come with the black 'standard' Speedplay cleats, but 'easy' cleats are available for those who want lighter-action clipping in and out. Garmin is available for Shimano SPD-SL, Look Keo, and even the gravel/MTB friendly Shimano SPD, and the power-meter internals can be swapped between the three, so if you regularly swap from road to gravel and mountain bike, you can take your power meter with you, without needing to own multiple power meters. Favero is designed for Look Keo although a Shimano version is available too. 

Wahoo claims the Powrlink Zero is accurate to within one per cent, and battery life is claimed at 75-hours of ride time. Both competitors match the accuracy claim, but Garmin's battery is rated to last longer - at 120 hours - and Favero will run down at just 50 hours. However, while Wahoo and Favero are rechargeable, Garmin relies on replaceable LR44 / CR1 batteries, which will therefore incur a cost each time you replace them. 

All three options are waterproof, as you'd expect from a power meter exposed to the elements. Wahoo and Garmin are IPX7 rated, while Favero is IP67 rated. 

IP stands for Ingress Protection. The first subsequent digit represents solid particles such as dust or mud, while the second digit relates to water. 6 is the highest rating for dust protection, meaning Favero's Assioma is totally sealed to dust. The 'X' for the others means that these power meters weren't actually tested for dust ingress. It doesn't mean they're worse, just that they're not tested. All three share the same '7' rating for waterproofing, which means they can all withstand being submerged at a depth of 1m for 30 minutes without letting in water. 

Are Wahoo Powrlink Zero pedals any good?

Given the pedal-based nature of the Powrlink Zero, the installation is literally as simple as fitting a pair of pedals and fitting the cleats to my shoes. Both were straightforward, but it's worth stating that the cleat process takes a good while longer than Shimano or Look cleats. There's more to think about, and the cleat cover takes some brute force to get into place. (Pro tip: put the cleat cover on a radiator for 10 minutes to warm and soften the material to help it stretch into place).  

From here, my next step was to pair the pedals with my Wahoo Elemnt Bolt, calibrate, and go. However, after some lower power readings, I spoke with Wahoo who suggested I follow the setup process within the app. Through this setup wizard, Wahoo asks you to perform a standing start (a short sprint from standing) to bed in the pedals before calibrating. This isn't something I've seen before, but Wahoo claim it's common, and it seemed to make a difference. It's recommended that you do this whenever fitting the pedals to a new bike. 

Wahoo products are widely renowned for being immensely easy to use, thanks in large part to the companion app, and the rest of the setup process lived up to these high standards. I tested pairing them with various cycling computers, my smartphone and a laptop via both Bluetooth and ANT+ and they were found immediately in all cases. This is a small thing, but an issue that plagues so many cycling sensors. 

How accurate are Wahoo Powerlink Zero pedals?

As mentioned above, Wahoo claims that its Powrlink Zero pedals are accurate to within a one per cent variance. This means that if you were riding at an exact wattage of 300 watts, the Powrlink Zero pedals promise to read somewhere between  297 and 303 watts. 

As is commonplace in a power meter test, for this review, I have pitted them against two alternative sources of power measurement - the Wahoo Kickr 18 and Specialized S-Works Power Cranks - to see how they compare. My findings are mixed.

The responsiveness is good, meaning that when power increases or decreases, so does the number on the computer receiving it. The graphs below show the pickup and dropoff for all three power meters was as accurate as each other. 

Steady state power is also fantastically accurate in comparison to the two control power meters. 

However, peak power readings are almost consistently low in comparison. 

In this first ride, it's clear that steady efforts are great. The three power lines track really consistently against each other, suggesting that they are all reading accurately and similarly. 

However, the number at the bottom right raised a red flag. The maximum power read by the Wahoo Powrlink Zero was 30 per cent lower than that of the Kickr. That is made slightly more clear in the images below, where I've zoomed into two of the power spikes. 

As shown in the images above, the way that Powrlink Zero responds to surges appears to be smoother. At this point, I asked Wahoo whether or not the Powrlink Zero actively smoothed out power readings, the answer was no. 

Unfortunately, this wasn't an anomaly. I have spent the better part of two weeks doing sprint-based training sessions in order to see how the Powrlink Zero responds, and for almost every power spike on each ride, the maximum power reading from Powrlink Zero was below that of the others. 

The gallery above depicts a 45 minute workout that consisted of 30 x 30-second sprints. In almost every sprint, the maximum power reading on the Powrlink Zero pedals is below that of the two other 'control' power meters. 

Just like the previous workout, the numbers on the workout depicted above read lower than the two control power meters. 

To summarise my findings. It looks as though Powrlink Zero smooths the power reading, which flattens any spikes and lowers the peak power reading.

"POWRLINK ZERO pedals themselves do not smooth the power reading, however, depending on your connected device, you may see power smoothing. POWRLINK ZERO will broadcast power 1x per second" is the official line from Wahoo, and during this testing, I paired the Powrlink Zero pedals with an Elemnt Bolt, an Elemnt Roam and a Hammerhead Karoo 2 computer, which rules out any possibility that the computers are at fault for the low readings. 

However, it's worth pointing out that in reality, unless you're training for a sprint and want to track your peak power, or you're racing on Zwift and need every watt you can get in a sprint, this shouldn't negatively affect your experience of the Powrlink Zero pedals. 

Should I buy the Wahoo Powrlink Zero power meter pedals?

With that aside, the main question is going to be whether these are a better buy than Garmin or Favero. Given the assumption that all three do in fact offer equally accurate and reliable power measurement, I believe the decision will come down to the following:

Price: As shown in the table above, Favero wins out here by a strong margin.

Ease of use: I've never used a Wahoo product that isn't an absolute breeze to use, and the Powrlink pedals have been no different.

Cleats and feel: Cyclists rarely follow certain teams in the same die-hard fashion that football fans do. Instead, we live and die by our choice of cleats. Ok, maybe not to that extreme, but once we've chosen one, very rarely will we swap. It's a faff, it costs money, it feels unnatural, and if you own multiple pairs of shoes or multiple bikes, the costs grow even higher. If you're using Shimano or Look pedals, then the Speedplay pedals are going to need to really impress in order to convince you to swap. Personally, I'm a fan of the Shimano SPD-SL platform: the tactile snap of clipping in is great, and the wide, secure foothold it offers is just that: secure. I don't get that same feeling with Speedplay pedals, and while they do still hold my foot during as hefty a sprint as I can muster, they feel less secure and the off-axis roll is increased. They do, however, offer the ability to clip into both sides, and that will be enough to convince a lot of riders to give them a try.  

Durability: Short of needing to lubricate your cleat spring, there's very little to be maintained with a Wahoo Speedplay pedal, however, the same can be said for the competition. 

Customer service: Wahoo Powrlink Zero pedals are backed by a two-year warranty. Likewise Garmin Rally and Favero Assioma.  

Verdict

Wahoo Powrlink Zero pedals benefit from the incredibly smooth user experience that Wahoo has pretty much built its brand on, so from a setup and pairing perspective, I'd put them right at the top of the pile. However, Speedplay cleats take more time to set up correctly, and in my opinion, the clip in feel isn't as locked in as you get with Shimano SPD-SL and Look Keo. This is personal preference, of course, and many riders will disagree, especially given you can clip into both sides of the pedal, and that the Speedplay cleats offer more in terms of adjustability.

In my testing, the power accuracy seems perfect for steady efforts, but falls a little short on peaks and sprints. However, be reassured that Wahoo will look after you should you have an issue. 

As for whether I'd recommend someone buy them, the answer is 'it depends':

If you're trying to get a power meter on a budget, then there are certainly cheaper options available. Not least in crank-based options, but even within the pedal-based systems, Favero's Assioma pedals are considerably less expensive. 

If you want versatility across road, gravel and mountain biking, then the Garmin Rally is probably a better choice, since it allows you to swap the internals across multiple pedal bodies. Alternatively, a spider-based system such as Rotor's InSpider might also fit the bill. 

However, if you value the seamless user experience that comes with buying into the Wahoo ecosystem, you want the benefit of being able to clip into both sides of your pedals or want to be able to adjust your cleat float at the turn of a screw, then the Wahoo Powrlink Zero is the choice for you. 

Tech Specs: Wahoo Powrlink Zero Dual-sided

• RRP: £849.99 / $999.99 / €999.99 / CAD$1,299.99 / AUD$1,499.95
• Weight: 276g (actual, 138g per pedal)
• Measurement: Dual-sided
• Battery life: 75+ hours
• Battery type: Rechargeable lithium-ion
• Accuracy: +/- 1 per cent
• Cleat system: Speedplay

The Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedal sits second from the top of its pedal range, with the Titanium version above it. It is priced at £180.00 ($250.00 / €194.00), which puts it in the middle of Shimano's Ultegra and Dura-Ace options and on a similar level to Wahoo's Speedplay Zero, although it's not uncommon to find them reduced. 

With all of the features of the range-topping model and the only penalty being a slight weight gain, how do they stand up against the rest of the best road bike pedals available? 

Design and aesthetics

Visually the design of the Look Blade pedals is certainly very striking with the broad platform and carbon blade making up the majority of the top and bottom of the pedal, and they certainly look high-end.

With only the range-topping mouthful Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Titanium sitting above it, these pedals are nearly identical both visually and functionally, with the hardened steel axle being the main difference from the titanium model. Both versions feature a low stack height of 14.8mm, a broad stainless steel pedalling platform, and the carbon 'blade' retaining spring on the bottom of the body. 

Weighing in at 116g per pedal, they are only bested by the Wahoo Speedplay Zero and the Wahoo Speedplay Nano for a pedal-only weight on our scales, but once you include the cleat and hardware it swings back in favour of the Look by 34g and 39g respectively. The crown for the lowest weight combination goes to the Dura-Ace 9100 pedal with a combined weight of 136g for the pedal and cleat, but the Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic comes in a very close second with a combined weight of 137g. 

Performance

As with all of the pedals on test, the installation was straightforward: regular thread on the drive-side, reverse thread on the other and an Allen key to tighten them up. Cleat setup has been the main differentiator with how straightforward or difficult each pedal has been to set up. All the Look pedals feature a three-bolt cleat, similar in setup to Shimano’s SPD SL platform but with a few differences. The material of the Look cleat supplied with the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedals is a hard grey plastic, with harder wearing white sections at the front and rear of the cleat. These offer 4.5 degrees of float (the amount you can twist your foot while remaining clipped in), but 0-degree and 9-degree float options are also available aftermarket. 

In the setting up of the cleats on my shoes, I found the hard plastic of the Look cleat slightly more difficult than Shimano's SPD-SL cleat, as it tended to slide around on the base of the shoe more while trying to make small adjustments. Not a major disadvantage by any stretch, but worth mentioning.

The point I found most bemusing about the supplied cleats was the complete lack of any added grip sections or surface. These are known simply as the Look Keo cleats, and they are by far the worst for grip if you're trying to walk about in your cycling shoes. Tiled floor in your favourite café? Make sure there is a handrail to grab when your feet decide they’re going one way and your body the other. 

The thing that makes this even more confusing is the two other Look pedals on test - the Keo 2 Max Carbon and Keo Classic - are supplied with the Look Keo Grip cleat - which are similar grey cleats made of the same base material, but with an added grip section at the front and rear. The trade-off in those is you lose the harder wearing sections at each end, so you'll need to decide between a cleat that offers less grip or a cleat that wears out faster? It must be possible to combine the benefits of both cleats to create a hard-wearing cleat that also offers grip, but Look is yet to find this solution. 

Once you have your cleats set up and you’re ready to ride, the experience on the bike is an enjoyable one, clipping in is positive and secure, there’s that previously mentioned very wide steel platform to support your foot and stop any off-axis roll while you’re pedalling. The fitted 12 Nm springs offer a nice clipping in and out tension with a 16 Nm carbon ‘blade’ spring included with the set. I didn’t try swapping the springs over as I found the included ones to be of adequate tension. It’s a relatively simple procedure to swap from one tension spring to the other, involving 2 Torx keys, a pin drift and a torque wrench, but this is still much more complicated than either of the other two Look pedals on test or any of the Shimano pedals. Wahoo, meanwhile, does not offer any adjustment to the release tension, short of swapping cleats altogether. 

Another point to mention about the Look pedals is that of all the pedals on test, they were the most prone to making noise or creaking in use, something I have found to be true with all the Look pedals I tested. If you cause any damage to the surface that contacts the pedal - walking on gravel for example - this causes the pedal/cleat to creak if your foot is anything but stationary while pedalling. While this doesn’t make the pedal any less functional, it is annoying, especially for everyone else if you’re the person bringing the creaky cleats to the group ride. 

Verdict

While there isn’t anything functionally wrong with the Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedals they do come up against some stiff competition. The Look Keo Max 2 offer the same wide pedalling platform, adjustable retention without swapping springs and the cleat with the grip sections all with only a 16g penalty to the Keo Blade. The Keo Blade Carbon ceramic is a perfectly competent pedal, but when faced with such stiff competition from in-brand rivals, let alone other brands, it doesn’t shine.

Also consider

• Look Keo Classic 3 pedals: Heavier, but cheaper and with easier cleat retention adjustment
• Shimano Ultegra pedals: Shimano's closest rival is slightly cheaper, easier to adjust, but slightly heavier
• Shimano Dura-Ace pedals: Shimano's top-tier pedal is lighter, easier to adjust, but slightly more expensive

Tech Specs: Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic pedals

• Price: £180.00 / $250.00 / €194.00
• Weight: 232g (pair)
• Weight with cleats: 274g (pair)

Pedals are arguably the most important part of riding a bicycle – without them, you simply cannot do anything. You cannot turn the cranks, meaning you can't move forward, and that's a pretty fundamental part of riding a bike. SPD pedals are one of the most popular styles, and they have been around since 1990. 

The term SPD stands for ‘Shimano Pedalling Dynamics,’ and was invented specifically for mountain biking. Today, SPD pedals are clipless pedals designed for off-road riding, while SPD-SL (SuperLight) pedals are designed specifically for the road.

Despite the confusing 'clipless' label, both SPD and SPD-SL pedals require you to clip your feet in, courtesy of a cleat that is fitted to the sole of your shoe and a sprung clip in the pedal that, when clipped in, will hold your foot secure, allow you to pull up as well as push down, and maintain an efficient foot position. 

With a pedal that caters to both road and off-road segments of the cycling space, Shimano pedals are a regular sight on bikes of all types, no matter your riding preference. The brand's SPD-SL contingent occupies numerous spots in our guide to the best road bike pedals, while the lightweight, durable and well-performing SPD range is well represented in our guide to the best gravel bike pedals. 

So popular they are, in fact, that the term ‘SPD pedals’ has almost become synonymous with clipless pedals. Competitors have popped up with their own iterations of MTB-specific pedals, but Shimano has continually evolved and improved the SPD line-up.

SPD vs SPD-SL

We've covered SPD vs SPD-SL in more depth separately, but here's a brief overview. 

The main selling point of SPD pedals is that they are lightweight, efficient, and reliable in all sorts of terrain and weather conditions. SPD pedals used a small metal cleat that fits the sole of a cycling shoe using two bolts. 

SPD pedals are typically two-sided, making them easier for quick clip-ins perhaps in a steep off-road switchback or at the start of a race. The small cleat is often recessed between rubber lugs on the sole of the shoe, which means that the cleat won’t be sticking out so they are easy to walk in. 

They are also available in different MTB cross country and trail models, with the former pedal body being much smaller, and the latter being longer so as to provide a wider platform for pedalling and balancing on steep and gnarly trails.

SPD-SL pedals, meanwhile, use a three-bolt cleat, so it's important to bear this in mind when choosing your shoes since not all shoes are compatible with both two- and three-bolt iterations. These cleats are plastic, and much larger than their off-road counterparts. Similarly, SPD-SL pedals provide a larger pedalling platform than SPD pedals, and they are often lighter and stiffer too. The entire SPD-SL pedal body is completely different from an SPD pedal, and you can only clip into one side rather than both.

Overall, SPD-SL pedals are lighter, more aerodynamic, and more efficient than SPD pedals. However, they are not ideal off-road pedals. The large cleat protrudes from the outsole of the shoe, making it difficult to walk. In addition, they aren't designed to shed mud, and they are more prone to damage due to their plastic construction. 

In essence, SPD-SL pedals are ideal for clean riding on paved roads, while SPD pedals  are designed for off-road use or rides that involved periods of walking. 

SPD pedal features

Two-bolt SPD pedals, especially, are quick to shed dirt and mud should you be riding in the rain or running up a muddy hill. Other pedal types can become easily clogged with dirt, but SPD pedals are intentionally designed for just these scenarios, allowing you to jump back on your bike and easily clip in after a muddy run-up. 

Inside each SPD pedal is a cartridge bearing unit that seals against dirt, mud, and moisture that could be picked up during a wet MTB ride. This also reduces the need for constant maintenance, which can be a pain if you happen to live in a wet and muddy climate. 

SPD-SL pedals are available with cleats that offer three different degrees of float, which is the amount you can rotate your foot whilst remaining clipped in. Red cleats offer a fixed (zero degree) float, blue cleats offer two degrees, while yellow cleats offer six degrees. 

Both SPD and SPD-SL pedals come with adjustable tension, which allows a rider to choose between a pedal that is easy to clip out of and a pedal that holds the foot extremely securely. 

How SPD pedals differ from other pedals

Despite Shimano's popularity, it's far from the only brand making clipless pedals, especially in recent years. Look is the obvious competitor on the road, having led the way with clipless pedals in the '80s (yes, we know Cinelli technically did it first), but many others have sprung up in the years since, including Wahoo and Time on the road, while Crankbrothers Hope, Nukeproof, DMR and others share a sizeable portion of the off-road market. Here’s are a few of the most popular options.

Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals are a lollipop-style pedal wherein the cleat almost fits around the pedal, rather than the other way around. Speedplay pedals are double-sided, which means that you can clip in on either side, which makes them more ideal for beginners trying out clipless pedals. Unlike Shimano and Look, Speedplay allow you to adjust the float, but not the tension. For an easier-release platform,  you'll need to swap cleats. Speedplay also offers the most available float out of any pedal style, with the loosest adjustment being 15 degrees.

Look Keo pedals also have three available floats: 0-, 4.5-, and 9-degrees. Look uses two different types of spring: a standard metal coil similar to Shimano, and a carbon fibre leaf spring. The latter is lightweight, but is harder to adjust. 

If you've heard of Crankbrothers pedals, you're probably familiar with its Eggbeater range, named as such for their uncanny resemblance to the kitchen tool. These pedals are meant purely for off-road riding because they are lightweight and shed mud better than any other pedal. They are very easy to clip in and clip out of, so are popular among mountain bikers and cyclocross racers who regularly ride and race in sloppy conditions, but also with weight weenies for their minimalistic construction.

Read more about other pedals in Cycling with cleats: Everything you need to know

Should you choose SPD pedals?

On the road, if you're after a lightweight, durable pedal system that comes with the ability to adjust tension, along with the wide availability of spares, then Shimano's SPD-SL will not leave you disappointed. In each of our reviews for Shimano 105 pedals, Ultegra pedals and Dura-Ace pedals, we were impressed by the balance of construction, durability and performance, but even beyond our own experiences, the brand's ability to maintain market prominence - nay dominance - is solid proof of the product's quality. 

However, one consideration worth making is that of adjustable float. It's pretty simple to adjust your cleat float with Shimano pedals, but it requires the purchase of new cleats - which then need to be fitted. Wahoo's Speedplay pedals flips the script here and allow the float to be adjusted by simply loosening or tightening a bolt. Therefore, if you want to play around with cleat float - and value dual-sided - then Speedplay might actually be a better choice for you. 

Off-road, it's a similar picture. If you value durability, longevity, and tension adjustment, then Shimano will serve you well. Those who want extreme mud-shedding capabilities or hyper-low weights will be tempted by Crankbrothers, and will no doubt also be happy with their choice, but we don't know anyone who's tried SPD and felt let down. 

The Look Keo 2 Max Carbon pedals along with the Keo 2 Max are probably two of the most popular pedals on the market, due to them sitting in the middle of the range of one of the most popular pedal manufacturers in the world. 

Look has been in the pedal market for a long time and, while the French brand didn’t originally invent clipless systems, it can be credited for making the system usable. With the introduction of the three-bolt cleat back in 1984, the standard that almost all road pedals still use to to this day, its influence on the market cannot be discounted.

Clipless pedals have come a long way since then, and the Keo 2 Max Carbon has benefitted from decades of innovation and trickle-down tech. However, while they can claim to win the popularity contest, how do they compare against the best road bike pedals? 

Design and specifications

The Keo 2 Max Carbon sits above the visually similar Keo 2 Max, and the Classic 3 Plus. The Keo 2 Max Carbon is visually different to the Classic 3 with its wider pedalling platform and full-width steel plate, offering a wide pedalling platform at 5cm across. This plate also gives the impression of a more premium pedal. 

Aesthetically, the pedal is almost entirely black in colour. The steel plate on the pedalling platform is silver, as per the material's finish, and the only additional colour comes courtesy of the Look branding and Keo 2 Max Carbon wordmark on the axle. 

At the rear of the pedal's upper face, an easy-access hex bolt can be used to adjust the cleat tension, while the axle houses the bearings. 

Performance

The closest competitor to the Keo 2 Max Carbon is the Shimano R8100 pedal, both in terms of where it sits in the range and the price point. Both options can be sourced online for similar prices if you find the right deal. 

The pedal weights are almost indistinguishable with the Shimano coming in at 124g for the pedal and the Keo 2 Max Carbon at 125g on our scales. Interestingly, these are both exactly on the claimed weight, something that doesn’t happen too often. Once cleats are included, Shimano gains the plaudits with a marginal victory. Total weights are 142g for the R8100 and 145g for the Look Keo 2 Max Carbon. 

Both pedals offer a large range of release adjustment in the same manner, a small hex key bolt on the rear of the pedal. They also both offer a small window on the rear to check how far through the adjustment range you are and to make sure both pedals are set the same. 

On initial set-up, the Look Keo 2 Max Carbon is every bit as secure as the Shimano pedals with clipping in and release feeling very similar. Over the duration of the test though the Look cleats did wear noticeably faster than the Shimano, this resulted in some play between the cleat and the pedal with no amount of adjustment removing it. 

The Keo 2 Max Carbon are supplied with Look’s gripper cleats, the difference being a rubber pad at the front and rear of the cleat. These provided a bit more grip than the standard cleat supplied with the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic but the grip section was again very short-lived compared to the Shimano cleat. And after a single slip on a smooth surface, one of the grippers was cleanly removed from the cleat. The cleats supplied with the more expensive pedals have a harder wearing section on the retaining sections of the cleat so these fared better - wearwise - but were the worst on test for grip when walking. It seems Look customers must choose between cleat wear or grip, unfortunately, you can’t have both. 

While riding, the pedals were as you would expect, offering a nice wide platform with plenty of support, no off-axis roll because of the width, leaving very little to pick between these and their rivals. The pedals did start to develop a bit of play after a couple of months of use, nothing serious but with no way of adjusting them it is a little disappointing. 

Verdict

While the Look Keo 2 Max is a good pedal, it doesn’t do anything better than its rivals. As a result, if it comes down to a choice for your first set of pedals, it would be hard to pick these over their Shimano rival. 

However, if you are offered them as part of a bike deal or if you are already tied into the Look platform, then they are a solid choice offering with a reliable and durable reputation.  

Back when Wahoo bought Speedplay, there was hope among the die-hard fans that their favourite pedal brand might have a resurgence. What’s emerged is a very familiar design with Wahoo’s own stamp on it. So far we’ve reviewed the Wahoo Speedplay Nano, Wahoo Speedplay Aero and Wahoo Speedplay Comp, so to finish the series, let’s see how the most popular pedal in the range — the Wahoo Speedplay Zero — stacks up against its stablemates, as well as the competition in the best road bike pedals category. 

Design and aesthetics

When Wahoo bought Speedplay in 2019 there was some concern among fans that the purchase was going to merely represent a rebranding exercise without any further product development. Speedplay was a brand with a unique product but sometimes struggled to realise its full potential, whether that be through supply chain or distributor problems. Speedplay fans are very vocal about the benefits and features, often claiming that they would never move to another pedal brand.

Having been a long term user of Shimano SPD-SL pedals, I had often thought about trying the original Speedplay pedals but the cost of entry associated with changing the pedals on multiple bikes was always too much of a barrier for me to take the leap. With the release of the Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals, it’s clear that Wahoo is aiming for the high end market as well. With these pedals being priced at £199.99 / $229.99, they are comparable with the top-end offering from both Shimano and Look. 

The pedals feature the same nylon body as the Wahoo Speedplay Comp pedals with the addition of a stainless steel axle. The cleats are the same as offered on the Wahoo Speedplay Aero but differ from the Comp by offering the firmer spring and a neater cleat surround to make the cleat sit completely flush with the shoes. All in, this makes for a very neat package when attached to your shoes and clipped in.

Performance

Having never taken the leap to purchasing a pair of the originals, I was looking forward to testing a pair of the Wahoo Speedplay pedals to see if they lived up to the hype. As mentioned in the Wahoo Speedplay Comp review, the cleats are initially quite fiddly to position but once set up, they’ve remained mostly trouble-free. While I appreciate the range of fitment this offers, it’s a kind of fit-and-forget unless you're constantly fiddling with your cleat position, in which case you will certainly appreciate the adjustability. 

In use, I was imagining the clipping in and out to be similar to a Shimano SPD pedal — just push your foot down and the cleat will take care of clipping in — in practice, it was a little trickier initially, as you have to kind of roll your foot onto the cleat to get the spring to move out over the larger stainless steel pedal surface ring. 

Once I was used to the method, they were easy enough to clip into, though this could have taken longer than a fresh user because of years of muscle memory of a different clipping-in process. Wahoo Speedplay offers a double-sided clip-in so you’ve got a pretty good chance of getting it right, as the retention is taken care of by the cleat.

Something that you’ll notice in the instructions if you take the care to read them is that, unlike any other pedal brand, Wahoo recommends and requires you to lube the cleats with a dry lube to maintain the maximum performance and function and reduce wear. On the subject of wear, the original Speedplay pedals suffered from problems on the pedal bodies, as they only had a steel ‘bowtie’ across the middle for the cleat spring to clip onto. Wahoo has addressed this problem by surrounding the rim of each pedal with a stainless steel ring though, unfortunately, I think in my case this just transferred the wear surface to the plastic plate that forms the base of the cleat, as mine has started to show wear after only a few weeks. Disappointing on a cleat that is triple the price of its competitors’ offerings. The wear hasn’t continued to damage the cleat plate though, so I will continue to monitor it and put it down to teething problems on my behalf. 

As I mentioned in the other Wahoo Speedplay shorter-term reviews there is a truly unique feeling to riding with these pedals,. The feeling of the low stack height is hard to describe but is immediately noticeable if you spend any considerable time riding with them, and then switch back to a bike fitted with pedals from a different manufacturer. In the initial stages of fitting the cleats, without any reference points from a previous set of cleats, the aforementioned adjustability did come into play when it came to tweaking my heel position, something I really appreciated, not a game changer, but noteworthy nonetheless. 

Walking in the cleats is the most natural of all the pedals I have had on test due to their rounded-nature; no tippy-toeing or clopping about. Speedplay originally offered a metal-faced cleat with a full cleat cover, which evolved into the walkable cleat/aero cleat that is now supplied as standard on all Wahoo Speedplay pedals, whether it be in the regular or easy-release version. 

Something that Wahoo doesn’t offer is the small plastic puck that fits into the cleat when there isn’t a pedal in there to stop dirt ingress. I have no word if Wahoo plans to offer this in the future. They are available from various sources online as ‘Speedplay cleat buddies’ though, and are something I’d suggest investing in if you have a gravel or muddy driveway at home or work, as the cleats’ performance noticeably degrades if you get sand or grit stuck in there.

I’ve been using the pedals for over 1,500km now and there isn’t any sign of play in the bearings yet, which you would hope for in a pedal costing as much as these. As I said in my Shimano Dura-Ace pedal review, I have pairs of them that are going strong for a decade now, so I hope the Wahoo Speedplay can live up to that level of longevity. The cleats are fitted to white shoes, so they won’t be used outside now until the weather improves. In the meantime I'll be switching them onto a bike on the turbo trainer, another product made by Wahoo, to see how they fare with a winter of use on Zwift. I have found that with the intensity of an indoor training session, it can highlight wear issues quickly, so I will update the review if anything out of the ordinary happens as the use continues.

Verdict

All in, the Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals are a solid option, certainly the goldilocks of the range. If you are looking at investing in a pedal platform for the first time, then the initial cost isn’t too dissimilar to any other high-end pedal, but if you are dipping your toes to see if they are for you then the Comp pedals are the most ‘budget’ option to test. I would be hard-pressed to recommend changing from a different brand unless you had specific fit requirements that Wahoo is able to accommodate.

Tech Specs: Wahoo Speedplay Zero

• Price: £199.99 / $229.99 / €229.99
• Weight: 111g (pedal), 176g (with cleat)
• Spindle material: Stainless steel
• Retention: Allen key (6mm)
• Float: 15-degrees

Wahoo Speedplay Comp pedals are the entrance to the Wahoo Speedplay pedal platform, but exactly how entry-level are they? 

I've spent the past two months using them alongside other Wahoo pedals to get a feel for how they compare, as well as options from Look and Shimano to get a feel for whether the Wahoo Speedplay Comp pedals are worth the switch away from the market leaders and a worthy inclusion in our guide to the best road bike pedals. 

Design and aesthetics

With the Wahoo Speedplay Comp pedals, Wahoo takes the same design as the more expensive models in the range but switches out some of the more expensive materials to lower the cost without losing any of the features offered by the Zero and Nano models. 

Sitting directly below the Wahoo Speedplay Zero in the range, the axle is swapped from stainless steel on the Zero to Chromoly on the Comp, although they share the same pedal body. The most expensive Wahoo Speedplay Nano has a carbon composite body, and is the only model in the range to feature it. 

The small changes in materials see the weight increase by 10g per pair (both claimed weight and measured - it’s nice to see a product being exactly the manufacturer’s claimed weight). The Wahoo Speedplay Comp pedals have many of the other features offered by the more expensive models: three-way independent cleat adjustment, low stack height, great cornering clearance, triple-sealed cartridge bearings, and adjustable float and release position. Wahoo is the only pedal brand available that offers this range of adjustment without changing the cleats. 

However, the one thing Wahoo pedals don't offer (that others do) is adjustable release tension. This is taken care of with a separate 'Easy' cleat, which essentially uses a lighter spring and makes it easier to get your foot in and out again. While the other three options in the Speedplay range come with the 'Standard' cleat, the Speedplay Comp pedals are supplied with the Easy cleats. 

Performance

All of this sounds great on paper but how does it all stack up in use, and how do they compare to the best road bike pedals available? As mentioned in the Wahoo Speedplay Aero review, the cleats are initially more work than other brands to set up because of the increased number of screws and parts to assemble a complete cleat, but once fitted, the range of adjustment is great. With other brands, if you want to adjust your float, it means changing the cleat. With Wahoo Speedplay, you have two set screws on each cleat that adjust how much the spring connecting your cleat to your pedal can move, thus giving you your float and heel in/out adjustment. The Wahoo cleats offer a claimed 0-15 degrees of float, although I found in practice that even with the float screws set with as little movement as possible, there were still a few degrees of movement. 

What I particularly liked about the system is that if you want to move your foot closer or further away from the pedal, or your heel in or out, you can do this without the risk of losing the rest of your cleat position. The same goes for moving your foot forward or backwards, although this is a bit more work as you have to remove the top half of the cleat first. 

Wahoo supplies a walkable cleat cover with all of its pedals, which is essentially a dimpled rubber sheath that covers all of the screws and the spring, giving the cleat a nice rounded profile. With the cover fitted I think the Wahoo Speedplay cleats are by far the most walkable of all the road cleats on test. With the rounded profile, there is none of the flat-foot tiptoeing that you can find with other cleats. That’s not saying it’s hard to walk in other road cleats, it's just Wahoo Speedplays are easier. 

Without the covers the nature of the open cleat does leave it vulnerable to dirt ingress, reducing the performance of the pedals. With others, if you have to walk across some muddy grass then it’s not a big deal, but I found one trip across a coffee shop lawn left me picking mud out of the cleat to restore the ability to clip in. 

As a long-standing Shimano user, I've long been a fan of the Shimano Dura-Ace pedals' respectable (but not market-leading) stack height of 13.7mm. Wahoo Speedplay offers 11.5mm when used with the adapter plate and 8.4mm when used with a Speedplay-compatible four-bolt shoe. I never thought that I was missing the lower stack height offered by Wahoo with my Shimano pedals, but there is a noticeable difference when switching between the pedal systems, with Speedplay pedals somehow just feeling that little bit smoother while riding. 

The downside to all this, however, is the price. The Wahoo Speedplay Comp pedals are by far the most expensive entry point to any of the brands on test at £134.99 ($149.99 / €149.99) for the cheapest pedal. This is more than Shimano 105 pedals, which sit on the second rung above the entry-level R550 pedals. 

What's more, Wahoo has a seemingly vicelike grip on its pricing so Speedplay pedals will very rarely be found with any significant reductions. That's not a bad thing for the bike industry, but it does mean that, for consumers, this price is actually comparable with the range-topping pedals from the competition, once you factor in discounts available.

Verdict

The Wahoo Speedplay pedal system - whichever model you choose - offers some features and performance benefits that cannot be found in any other brand of pedal. If you have a specific fit issue or really prize the low stack height offered, then there isn’t another pedal that competes, but entry to this system does come at a price, especially if you have multiple bikes to equip or you’re changing from another platform. 

With the Wahoo Speedplay Comps offering all the other performance benefits of the more expensive pedals in the range while at the lowest price available, they are the best option for dipping your toe or satisfying that curiosity. Wahoo Speedplay pedals have the most vocal fans of their platform for some good reasons, but it will come down to justifying the outlay.

Tech Specs: Wahoo Speedplay Comp pedals

• Price: $149.99 / £134.99 / €149.99
• Weight: 116g (232g a pair, actual)
• Weight with cleat: 177g (354g a pair, actual)
• Material: Chromoly, stainless steel
• Retention: Allen key (6mm)
• Float: 0 - 15 degrees

Shimano 105 pedals have the look and feel of the pricier Ultegra and Dura-Ace, with a similar profile to their carbon bodies, but a slightly less finished appearance. All use the same Shimano cleats, with yellow, blue and red options providing progressively less float.

Shimano 105 might be the first tier in the brand's performance groupset offering, but that doesn't mean that Shimano has skimped on quality, particularly with the internals which are super durable and will run for years with minimal maintenance. When they do need a lube or bearing replacement, they're easily serviceable too.

When we reviewed the Shimano 105 pedals, we highlighted their stable platform and easy adjustment of release tension to suit your preferences and riding needs. Like Shimano's pricier pedals, they screw in and out with an 8mm hex wrench, giving their spindles a clean look without pedal flats.

At only 17 grams heavier per pair than the claimed weight of Ultegra pedals (although we measured the difference as just 10g) and 37g more than Dura-Ace pedals, Shimano 105 pedals aren't going to weigh you down and will save you a nice amount of cash as well.

If you've read the reviews, checked out the best road bike pedals around, come to the conclusion that the 105 pedals are right for you, and you just want to check you're getting the best price, here are the best deals available on Shimano 105 pedals right now. Our web crawler scours the internet for the best deals on millions of products and updates in real time, so you can be sure that we've checked around.

You'll often find hefty discounts on the £124.99 / $150.00 / AU$139.99 / €109.95 list price of Shimano 105 pedals, making them a fairly economical choice for a performance pedal. However, that aggressive discounting often extends to Ultegra and Dura-Ace pedals too, if you're after pedals that match your Shimano groupset.

The reduced price brings the price-to-weight ratio for Shimano pedals closer to that of Look's alternatives too. 

Wahoo's Speedplay pedal range, announced earlier this year, comes as a result of the US brand buying Speedplay back in 2019, and now they're vying for a spot in the best road bike pedals market. 

With the boom in indoor cycling, it's no wonder that brands like Wahoo are forming their own ecosystems of interchangeable and related tech, which enrich the indoor training experience and allow users to track their data using a variety of products and services, from the best turbo trainers to power meters and cycling computers.

Now, two years after the acquisition, we've been putting the Wahoo Speedplay Aero pedal to good use to see whether it’s an improvement over the original, or just a change of name. Read on to find out how we got on.

Design and specifications

The Wahoo Speedplay Aero is the most purposefully performance-orientated pedal around, with its low stack height and the fact that it eschews the double-sided nature of its siblings to offer a dimpled aerodynamic bottom side. 

The most noticeable update from previous versions of Speedplay pedals is that the steel section now runs the full circumference of the platform rather than the ‘bow tie’ that once ran from the front to the back. This should really aid with pedal wear, which was an issue with previous generations from before the Wahoo era. 

The other notable update is the switch from a user-serviceable loose bearing setup with a grease port in the pedal to sealed cartridge and needle bearings. The design and specs of these pedals do come at a cost though, with the Wahoo Speedplay Aero retailing for £239.99 / $279.99 / €279.99, and with Wahoo's frustratingly-impeccable market price control, you'll be lucky to ever find it discounted, unlike the competition from Shimano and Look. 

Performance

Out of the box, you’re greeted with an incredibly neat looking pair of pedals and an array of cleat hardware to tackle before you can get out on your bike. The cleat setup is far more complicated than you get from Look or Shimano in some ways but once set up, adjustment is far more logical. 

Let me explain: with a Shimano or Look pedal, you have a cleat then three bolts and three washers and that’s it, cleat on shoe, washers and bolts in place, tighten bolts and you’re good to go. When it then comes time to adjust, you have to loosen all three bolts to make slight adjustments in fore or aft or heel in/out and you risk losing their position altogether.

The Wahoo Speedplay cleat re-writes this script completely. You start with a plate that bolts to the three regular holes in the sole of your shoe, this allows for fore and aft adjustment while adapting your shoe to Wahoo Speedplay’s four-bolt cleat setup. Next up is your cleat, held in place with 4 screws, this is where you will set your stance width (how far apart you would like your feet, or how far your feet are from your cranks). Once these two positions are set there are two screws on the cleat itself that allow you to adjust your float and heel in/out position independently from anything else. While this might seem like a lot to take on board, it does allow for near-infinite individual adjustment of foot position that is not offered in such detail by any of the other platforms. 

It does come with some drawbacks, though. Not least the weight, but also if you set up your cleats and feel like you need to move your cleat forward or backwards a little. To adjust this, you'll need to remove the cleat and then adjust the base plate, then reassemble it all to test the new position. An adjustment the Wahoo Speedplay pedals don't offer is release tension, this can only be changed by swapping the regular retention cleat to the easy-release version, which comes as standard with the entry-level Speedplay Comp pedals. If you want to feel even more locked into your pedals, then this isn’t an option as even with the tight spring and float reduced as much as possible, there are still a few degrees of float.

In use, the Wahoo Speedplay Aero pedal's low stack height of 11.5mm is noticeable. You feel like you’re pedalling right on the axle, and this feeling was even more pronounced when I was switching between pedals with a higher stack such as the Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals, with a 6.3mm difference between the two. It’s hard to describe but the low stack height does feel nicer. 

I can’t say that I noticed the aero benefit of the Speedplay Aero pedals in testing, but it's worth noting that they were used recently by Dan Bigham to break Sir Bradley Wiggins' British hour record title. Bigham is known for his meticulous attention to aerodynamic detail, so I’m sure there must be some benefit, and the reduced stack height will also reduce the overall size of the rider's frontal profile for further potential gains.

Verdict

With the Wahoo Speedplay Aero clearly aiming at the top tier of performance, that does come at a cost for the day to day usability of the pedals. The single-sided clip in and the initial price of the pedals will be enough to put some people off, and if you are looking for the benefits of the unique float adjustment but with more usability and a lower price, the Wahoo Speedplay Zero and Wahoo Speedplay Comp might be more suitable. 

However, if you’re looking for the most aerodynamic performance-orientated pedal on the market, look no further.

Of the few brands operating in the road bike pedal segment, Look is quite possibly the most established. After all, Look was first to successfully market the clipless pedal system back in the 1980s. In the four decades since, clipless pedals have come a long way and thanks to trickle-down technology, clipless pedals are available at a range of price points. 

The Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals are one such example and are positioned as the second most affordable road bike pedals in the Look range, offering a few improvements to the entry-level Classic 3.

At a price of £59.99 / $80.00 / €67,99, they are a fifth of the price of Look's top-tier option, but does that mean they offer a fifth of the performance or do they manage to punch above their price point in a fight against the best road bike pedals?

Design and specifications

The design of the Keo Classic 3 plus follows Look's popular design of a wide platform, substantially increased from the previous generation, and a three-bolt cleat mounting system that is compatible with all of the best road cycling shoes. 

By choosing the ‘Plus’ model over the standard Keo Classic 3, you'll get a pair of stainless steel plates bonded into the composite body to aid with power transfer and pedal wear. 

The pedals have a Chromoly steel axle, the same as the Keo Classic while all the models above it in the range feature a Chromoly+ axle, right up until you reach the Titanium axle of the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti. There are no stainless steel axles here, unlike Shimano and Wahoo which both offer stainless steel axle options in the range. 

Performance

The Look Keo Classic 3 Plus is an attractive option for anyone looking to switch to clipless pedals, it is available at a very competitively low price and comes with adjustable tension to make clipping out easy. However, it does have some shortcomings in use that might mean it is not the best pedal to get started with. 

Look uses a single cartridge bearing fixed to the axle and a non-replaceable needle bearing to the outside of the axle, and neither of these is particularly user-serviceable past putting a bit of new grease on the needle bearing. Unfortunately in testing, they have developed play after just a few hundred kilometres, and disappointingly, there's no way of removing that play once it appears. 

Once they had started to exhibit wear in the bearing, there were occasions where a pedal wouldn't return to its correct position once I'd unclipped at traffic lights, so when I came to clip in again, I'd have to look down to flick the pedal over with my foot before being able to clip in. It's far from the end of the world, of course, but it becomes particularly frustrating in busy traffic, especially knowing it's not something that can be fixed. 

However, that aside, once you’re clipped in and riding, the Look Keo Classic does perform well. It offers a wide range of cleat retention adjustment, which can be set lower (easier to unclip) than the Shimano pedals on their respective lowest settings, and the Wahoo Speedplay which aren't adjustable in this way without a cleat swap. If you are new to clipless pedals, this means you can set a nice easy release tension in case you are worried about being able to get your foot out. 

While riding, the float offered by the grey Look Keo Grip cleats is nice and free feeling so you can easily find a comfortable position. The cleats are also offered in zero and nine-degree versions if you would like more or less movement although I found the included grey 4.5-degree version to be adequate with the range of spring adjustment that is available. 

The Keo cleats also offer one unique feature in that they have a small pop-out section so when it's time to replace your cleats, you can remove the screws and carefully lift the cleat off while holding the removable ‘memory’ section in place that enables you to place the new cleat in exactly the same position. While this can be fiddly in practice, the idea is nice. One thing that can be said for the Look Keo cleats is they can be prone to being noisy and creaking if the contact area gets damaged from walking. However, this can easily be rectified by filing or sanding any small raised areas of the contact patch. 

Verdict

The Look Keo Classic 3 Plus is a great entry point to trying clipless pedals thanks to the super-easy entry and exit, as well as the fact that the closest rival from another brand is 50 per cent more expensive. 

However, if you can stretch to the Shimano 105 pedals, then the initial investment might pay off in the long run with the extended life span and serviceability. 

Tech Specs: Look Keo Classic 3 Plus pedals

• Price: £59.99 / $80.00 / €67,99
• Weight: 140g
• Weight with cleats: 159g

Shimano Ultegra is one of the most widely used performance groupsets in the world. As the pedal contingent of that groupset, Shimano Ultegra pedals have a lot to live up to.

Alongside Shimano Dura-Ace 9200, we saw the new Shimano 8100 Ultegra launched, too. Much like its big brother, Shimano didn’t feel the need to make any changes to the existing pedals, so the PD-R8000 pedals carried through to become PD-R8100.

With that in mind, for this review I will focus on the updates from the previous PD-R6800 pedals, and compare to the current series 105 and Dura-Ace options. Those are all from the Shimano SPD pedal family, but I will also look at the competition from Look and Wahoo Speedplay to see how Shimano Ultegra pedals compare to the best road bike pedals out there.

Design and specification

The Ultegra pedal features an increased width over the former PD-R6800 pedal, matching the Dura-Ace with the widest platform on test, at 65mm. Shimano also shaved an already competitively light pedal from 260g down to 248g for the pair, this has been done with a combination of refining the carbon composite body itself and switching the removable steel plates to ones that are bonded into the pedal body. This new plate also helped to reduce the stack height by 0.7mm, as they no longer needed to account for removable hardware.

When you have all three pedals lined up you can see the extra refinement between the models that will account for the weight differences, along with the different material choices.

Visibly, they fall halfway between the Dura-Ace (PD-R9200) and the 105 (PD-R7000) pedals, with Ultegra sharing visual clues from both. For example, the wear plates appear to be identical to those found on Dura-Ace, but the axle assembly is closer to that on the 105.

The bearing setup in the Ultegra pedal is the same serviceable two-bearing design that features on the 105 pedal, as well as the previous Ultegra design.

Performance

I own a couple of pairs of Ultegra pedals, and the oldest have been rock solid for over a year.

One pedal did develop a small amount of play, but it was easily rectified thanks to the easily serviceable construction of the axle. To do this, I simply had to use a 17mm spanner to remove the axle assembly from the body of the pedal, then two smaller spanners to adjust the cup and cone bearing system. Also, while I had the body and axle separated I took advantage of the ease at which you can re-grease the Shimano Ultegra pedals (and all the pedals in the Shimano SPD-SL family for that matter) by just pumping a bit of grease into the pedal body with a grease gun. Upon re-installing the axle, the new grease pushes the old grease out. The whole process took no more than 10 minutes and was all refreshingly easy in a world of cartridge bearing and bushes.

With just a single gram separating the Shimano Ultegra pedal from its closest priced Look competitor, the Keo Max 2 Carbon, the durability of the Shimano pedal is what sets it apart from its rival. The Look pedal, by comparison, has one cartridge bearing and one needle bearing, which once worn, is not replaceable so if you are lax with your servicing, it can deteriorate quickly, leading to a costly mistake.

The Shimano Ultegra pedals are supplied with the most popular Yellow cleat option, offering six degrees of float. Of all pedal systems we've tried, Shimano pedals have the firmest feeling when clipped in. Both the Look and Wahoo by comparison are very free feeling, even when the float is reduced or spring tension increased.

The ride feel of the Shimano Ultegra pedals is virtually indistinguishable from the Shimano PD-R9100, with only the reduced stack height of the Dura-Ace setting them apart in feel. If, however, you are very sensitive to fit you may notice the less-than 1mm difference and have to lower your seat. The almost 2mm stack height difference between the Ultegra and PD-R7000 pedals is more notable though, especially between the Dura-Ace and 105 models stacking up to almost 3mm of difference.

With the supplied cleats, you can vary the feeling from very loose with the retention spring on its lowest setting, up to a very secure fit with it on its maximum setting. If you want a more secure connection again, then you have the option of the Blue (two degrees of float) or Red (fixed) position cleats.

Verdict

In use, the Shimano Ultegra pedals offer 90 per cent of the performance of the more expensive Dura-Ace model but at a far more acceptable price, especially if found with a discount, which is usually possible with Shimano pedals.

The bearings aren’t quite as buttery smooth, and the overall weight is a little higher, but in use, I couldn’t really feel the difference between the two. If you’re basing your buying choice on marginal gains, want that reduced stack height, or want to take advantage of the extra year warranty that Dura-Ace componentry gets, then Dura-Ace might be worth the extra upfront investment, but if you're basing your purchase on how the pedals feel, it’s hard to look past the Ultegra level pedal as they really do offer the same level of ride quality.

Tech Specs: Shimano Ultegra pedals

• Price: £157 / $200 / €185 / AU$249
• Weight: 248g (pair)
• Weight with cleats: 286g

Shimano introduced carbon pedal bodies with its 7900 groupset way back in 2008, and over the 13 years since, the various iterations of Shimano Dura-Ace pedals have been a case of continual evolution rather than wholesale revolution.

When these Dura-Ace PD-R9100 pedals were updated from the previous PD-R9000 versions, they maintained much of their proven form and function, but Shimano gave them a wider pedalling platform and an updated bearing design to include a needle roller bearing with no less than three bearing races per pedal.

Of course, R9100 is no longer the latest series of Dura-Ace, but with the recent launch of the 12-speed R9200 groupset, Shimano decided that the existing R9100 Dura-Ace pedals were so good that they didn't need improving upon, and carried them over into the latest version with nothing more than a change in the barcode on the box.

So with Shimano effectively reiterating that these are the best road bike pedals it has ever made, let’s see how these £234.99 / $280.00 / €269.95 / AU$370.00 pedals stack up against the top-tier competition from Look and Wahoo and decipher whether they're a worthwhile upgrade from Ultegra.

Design and specifications

The Shimano Dura-Ace pedal isn’t too dissimilar to the Ultegra or 105 options so what sets it apart from its siblings?

While always renowned for durability, Shimano always had a bit of a stigma for its pedals being heavy. Over the past few generations, Shimano has addressed this by trimming the bodies and refining where possible without affecting that all-important durability. This latest model comes in at 234g for the pair (minus cleats) vs 248g & 258g for Ultegra and 105 respectively.

• Check out our Shimano 105 pedals review

While these aren’t the lightest pedals available - this honour goes to the Wahoo Speedplay Nano at an impressive 170g for the pair - when you factor in the cleats too, Dura-Ace takes the crown, at 272g. Look's Keo Carbon comes a close second at 274g, and Wahoo's 81-gram cleats send the Speedplay Nanos tumbling down the table with a total weight of 332g.

As the most performance-orientated pedal in the Shimano range, they include the brand's blue cleats (two degrees of float) rather than the yellow (six degrees) version that is included with the other pedals in the Shimano range. The cleats are fitted to the shoe with the same three-bolt SPD-SL attachment as the others, but with another nod to watching the grams, Dura-Ace gets machined and hollow bolts, saving a further 1.4 grams over their counterparts.

• SPD vs SPD-SL: What are the differences?

Another factor setting the Dura-Ace pedals apart is the quality of the bearings and the axle assembly. Of all the pedals on the market, Shimano's are the only pedals that could be described as easily user-serviceable, with loose ball bearings on an axle that can be adjusted, re-greased and have play removed, all using standard spanners. While the Ultegra and 105 pedals offer a brace of bearings, the Shimano Dura-Ace offer two rows of loose bearings and a needle roller bearing, further improving smoothness and durability.

The Shimano Dura-Ace pedals also offer a lower stack height compared to the other pedals in the range, around 2mm less, which is achieved by situating the largest bearing outside of the pedal body, rather than inside.

Performance

In use, I find the Shimano Dura-Ace pedals the easiest to clip into of all pedals. This will, of course, be helped by my familiarity with the product, but it's also because they are weighted in such a way that they always hang in the correct place for being able to clip in.

Of course, Shimano's Ultegra and 105 pedals offer a very similar clipping in action, but with the extra refinement to the pedal body of Dura-Ace, the weight difference from front to back is slightly greater, which further exaggerates the position while clipping in and makes it marginally easier. This is then further improved by the super-smooth bearings mentioned earlier.

Look pedals also have a similar action for clipping in, but I found myself occasionally getting the underside of the pedal when putting my foot down, making it a slower process that sometimes required a glance down. Wahoo's pedals benefit here from having dual-sided entry, which negates this issue entirely, but it's worth noting that the clipping in process is a slightly different feel: rather than pushing downwards and forwards, the action starts on the outside of the foot, with pressure increasing inwards towards the bike.

With the ultra-wide 65mm pedalling platform (the widest on test) the pedals feel incredibly supportive with no side to side foot roll. The included blue cleats offer a small amount of float at the front of the shoe (two degrees) and are fixed at the rear, so they give you a really secure feeling on the bike, and if you like a really locked-in feeling, the adjustable tension screw is easy to access and operate.

While a lot of the feel could be attributed to the cleat rather than the pedal, the spring tension on the rear of the pedal plays an important part in your overall experience, a pedal with low tension and a fixed cleat will feel looser than a pedal with high tension and cleat with the most float. With the options of float and spring tension, you can fine-tune your experience in a way that is not available with all of the pedals on other platforms.

As a note to that touted durability, I have a pair of Shimano 7800 series Dura-Ace pedals (launched in 2004) still going strong, some 17 years after purchase. I can’t say the same for many other components I purchased that long ago, and they’ve outlasted many, many bikes.

And such is the popularity of the Shimano Dura-Ace pedal, it's not uncommon to see riders in the professional peloton using these when they are sponsored by another component or pedal manufacturer.

Verdict

While the Shimano Dura-Ace pedals do offer some marginal gains over the other pedals in the Shimano range, it’s the sum of its parts that set the Dura-Ace pedals apart, but are they worth the upgrade over Shimano Ultegra R8000 pedals?

Ultegra offers around 90 per cent of the performance for just over half the price, and for most of us, that 90 per cent is more than good enough a pedal for our needs.

However, if that 10 per cent counts to you, or you enjoy owning the peak of pedal design by the world's largest component manufacturer, then it's equally as hard to say why you wouldn’t pick them.

Serviceability, low weight, durability, and ease of finding spares all add up to a flagship product that is easily one of the best road bike pedals on the market, and since Shimano components can often be found with great discounts online, you'll likely be able to buy them for cheaper than the competition too.

Tech Specs: Shimano Dura-Ace PD-R9100 pedals

• Price: £234.99 / $280.00 / €269.95 / AU$370.00
• Weight: 234g
• Weight with cleats: 272g

Shimano 105 is often seen as the entry point to the Shimano performance groupsets. It occupies the third tier in the range, sitting below Dura-Ace and Ultegra, and one step above Tiagra. As the pedal offering for the 105 groupset, we are going to see how the Shimano 105 pedals - also known as Shimano PD-R7000 pedals - compare to their more expensive counterparts.

With a retail price of £124.99 ($150.00 / AU$139.99 / €109.95), the Shimano 105 pedals are at the cheaper end of Shimano's clipless pedal pricing spectrum. They're still not 'loose change', but the wider 105 groupset is known for taking advantage of trickle-down technology to offer an unrivalled ratio of performance to price, so we wanted to find out whether the pedals offered the same incredible value for money. 

With that in mind, we've been using Shimano's third-tier pedals on our road bikes for years, so here's an in-depth review of where they sit in the lineup, how they compare versus similar priced models from Look, and whether or not they are worthy of their place in our guide to the best road bike pedals.

Design and specs

As with all Shimano road pedals, the 105 pedals use the SPD-SL design. This stands for Shimano Pedalling Dynamics - Super Light, and is different from traditional Shimano SPD pedals. For a detailed look at the two, see our SPD vs SPD-SL head-to-head. 

Updated to a newer carbon composite body with the latest iteration to save weight and keep them in line with the current crop of Shimano groupsets, the 105 pedals are not dissimilar to their Ultegra siblings from a visual standpoint. They are, however, slightly more distinguishable from the range-topping Dura-Ace model, which comes with a unique axle assembly.

Shimano offers the widest platform available when compared to its main rivals, Look and Wahoo Speedplay, and this is immediately notable underfoot with a more surefooted feel while riding and less cross-axis foot roll. Despite its reduced price, the 105 pedals share the same platform width as both Ultegra and Dura-Ace. They also share the same adjustable entry and release tension with a simple screw-until-click adjustment on the rear of the pedal. 

On our scales, the Shimano 105 pedals weigh less than the advertised 265g per pair, coming in at 248g, while a single pedal and cleat came in at 148g. Even though this is the entry point to the Shimano ‘performance’ pedal range, this weight places them very competitively, weighing just 12 grams more (per pedal) than the top-tier Dura-Ace model, and making them 18.5g lighter than Wahoo's lightest option, the uber-expensive Speedplay Nano, with the cleat included. 

With that said, if weight is your all-important factor and you're on a budget, it is possible to go lighter for less, with Look's Keo 2 Max Carbon tipping the scales at 145g for pedal and cleat combined. 

Shimano use a three-bolt cleat pattern attaching to the shoe with three supplied bolts and slotted washers. The cleats offer side-to-side adjustment via the cleat and fore-aft adjustment with slotted washers. In addition to position adjustment Shimano offer three different versions of cleat; Red (fixed no float), Blue (small amount of float at rear) and the most popular, included with these pedals yellow. The yellow cleats offer a small amount of float at the rear and a small amount of float at the front. 

These cleats are ideal if you are new to clipless pedals with you being able to tune your cleat position with less risk of damage or causing unwanted strain on your knees as you might have with a fixed cleat. 

Performance

In use, the Shimano 105 pedals - like the other Shimano models - offer the most surefooted feel, the extra width of the pedalling platform is immediately noticeable when switching between brands. 

With the easy variable release tension, you can set the pedals from loose all the way up to very tight. If you like your feet to really feel like they are locked in for the best power transfer, Shimano is by far my preference.

Inside, the Shimano 105 pedals use a loose ball bearing system in the axle, this means that they can be serviced and re-greased if they develop any play, and doing so is a straightforward task that can be performed at home. 

During our long-term testing, they have proved to be incredibly reliable, without developing and creaks or squeaks, or dirt ingress causing problems with the cleats. If you are diligent with replacing your cleats when they are worn so they do not wear the pedal bodies, you can expect them to quietly go about their business without any complaints for years. 

Another benefit of choosing Shimano is that, with their immense popularity the world over, if the availability of spares is a requirement, then you can almost guarantee that any bike shop will have a spare pair of cleats should you damage yours while out on the road, especially useful if you’re touring or bikepacking.

With all of Shimano's pedals, the cleat float is adjusted by replacing the cleat with one of a different colour, as explained above. The downside to this is that to adjust float, you will need to memorise - or mark - the position of the previous cleat when replacing. In contrast, Wahoo Speedplay pedals offer float adjustment built into the cleat - a much faster, easier and cheaper adjustment. 

As with the pedals that sit above it in the range, the Shimano 105 pedals are fitted with an 8mm hex key (no 15mm spanners here), which leaves a nice clean look when installed.  

Verdict

If you’re not concerned about having the range-topping pedal or have any specific fit issues, or happen to be looking for a pedal with an exceptionally low stack height then the Shimano 105 pedals are a solid choice for any road going bicycle, whether you’re a seasoned cyclist or looking for your first pair of clipless pedals.

They are easily serviceable, offer bombproof reliability, and combine the best features from their more expensive stablemates into a more affordable package. What's more, they are readily discounted by retailers making the Shimano 105 pedals some of the best value road bike pedals out there. 

Tech Specs: Shimano 105 R7000 Pedals

• Price: £124.99 / $150.00 / AU$139.99 / €109.95
• Weight: 129g
• Weight with cleats: 148g

Clipless pedals. It's a confusing naming convention, to say the least, but the whole concept represents a rite of passage for all cyclists. Not only does the clipless pedal foster a more efficient pedalling action, but it also provides an added sense of connection or symbiosis between rider and bike. As we've already detailed in our guide to the best road bike pedals, the clipless pedal came about in 1984 when French brand, Look, revolutionised the concept with the PP65 clip-in pedal mechanism. This radical new design rendered the toe-clip/strap interface of the time obsolete, and the clipless pedal was born.

Of all the pedal manufacturers, Look has naturally become the gold standard and one of the most popular pedal systems in the world with a range that comprises options to sate all budgets and performance penchants. It comes as no surprise that Look's main adversary is Shimano. The Japanese component manufacturer designed its own pedal in 1987 - the Dura-Ace 7401 which used a Look-style cleat - in a move to keep brand loyalists under one umbrella. It wasn't until over a decade later that it would develop its own take on the Look cleat system but the blueprint remains largely the same.

Four years later, in 1991, another pedal protagonist arrived on the scene - the American-designed Speedplay pedal (now known as Wahoo Speedplay). Compared to Look and Shimano, the lollipop design philosophy of the Speedplay pedal is easily one of the most recognisable silhouettes in the segment. Unlike its rivals, the retention mechanism resides in the cleat itself and not the pedal. It's a complicated system but the upshot is a high degree of adjustability.

Each of the three road bike pedal options listed above offers various pros and cons but which is the best? Well, we've assembled the range-topping version of each brand - Look's Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti, Shimano's Dura-Ace R9100 Carbon SPD-SL and Wahoo's Speedplay Nano - to find out, once and for all, which pedal brand takes the crown.

Design and aesthetics

Of the three pedal systems gathered here, the Wahoo Speedplay Nanos are peculiar looking in the traditional sense but the minimalist lollipop-like appearance has endeared it to many cyclists. As Wahoo's flagship model they naturally feature an array of high-end materials to help keep weight to a minimum but this has done little to affect function. Round stainless steel plates bookend a carbon-fibre pedal body that spins on a titanium spindle. These plates are screwed into the body and not only help reduce scuff and pedal wear but also improves clip-in performance, too. A clever touch is a Wahoo-embossed logo - located centrally on each side of the pedal - which serves as a way to tell apart the left from the right pedal.

Look hasn't changed its recipe much in terms of design since the inception of PP65s in 1984 - if anything, the French company has merely improved a winning formula by introducing lightweight materials. The Keo moniker came about as a result of the company's innovative approach to design and engineering and, in 2004, 20 years after the original concept, the Keo pedal was born. The Keo has gone through mild visual tweaks over the years but the model you see here is easily the brand's most impressive pedal to date. Distinguished by way of its bladed facade, the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti makes use a carbon-fibre body and titanium spindle to help reduce weight. What we like is the standardised look and feel across the board - meaning only those with an eagle eye can differentiate these flagship pedals from their lesser siblings. These details include a silver ceramic wordmark on the spindle and a red Ti logo on the platform recess.

The Shimano SPD-SL concept is very similar to the Look Keo pedal, the most notable difference coming in the form of the slightly larger dimensions and bigger platform surface area. And while the SPD-SLs have garnered a loyal following the one area that these pedals fall short on is visual presence. Compared to the Wahoo Speedpays and Look Keos there's nothing particularly unique - no hallmark features, nothing. In fact, the only element denoting its origin is the Dura-Ace logo on the tension bolt end of the pedal. That said, it's still beautifully designed and the mottled effect of the carbon-fibre body does bestow it with a stealthy look, it just lacks the presence of the other two. 

• Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals review

Specifications

As the cycling industry gets more and more obsessed over gram counting it's easy to be distracted by baseline weight numbers. In this context, weight isn't going to affect the way a pedal performs but it is an easy way to trim lard from your bike. 

At 234g (117g per pedal), the Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 SPD-SL are the heaviest pedals here and that's partly because they utilise a fairly sizeable platform. They might not be as fancy as the Look Keo Blades and Wahoo Speedplay Nanos - eschewing titanium axles for semi-hollow nickel-based chromoly steel spindles - but they're just as capable. The proven carbon-reinforced composite body gets three in-moulded stainless-steel contact plates to reduce wear and the 13.7mm stack height keeps it competitive and somewhat aero. The three-bearing axle configuration, comprising two ball bearings and a needle bearing, spins smoothly with very little in the way of resistance. As an out-of-the-box pedal option, the R9100 SPD-SL is a refined choice underscored by Shimano's reputation for reliability.

Speaking of reliability, Look's Keo Blade Carbon pedal system can go the distance if looked after and regularly inspected. While some users have complained of premature bearing wear (non-ceramic versions), the ceramic ball bearings employed by this particular Keo Blade pedal are less sensitive to dust and won't corrode. In fact, the bearing system is claimed to last four to six times longer than the steel equivalent. The spindle itself is also waterproof - IPX7- and IPX6-rated - thanks to the clever watertight design of the outer cap and inner nut.  In terms of how it performs on the scale, the liberal combination of carbon fibre, titanium and ceramic bearings have culminated in one of the lightest pedal systems on the market - 190g (95 per pedal) to be precise. On the other end of the spectrum, the stack height of 14.8mm is the highest here.

Other than the Titanum MyTi 3D-printed titanium pedals we wrote about last month, the Wahoo Speedplay Nanos are the lightest production pedal currently available. A combination of titanium and carbon-fibre hardware has helped keep weight to an absolute minimum - 170g (85g per pedal). It's worth noting that each cleat weighs 81.5g, which is significantly heavier than Shimano (32g with fastenings) and Look (48g with fastenings). Unlike its rivals from Look and Shimano, the Speedplay Nanos are dual-sided and are the only road pedals on the market that offer this functionality. Looking at the stack height of 11.5mm, the Speedplays possess the lowest profile in the segment - a boon when it comes to lean angles and cornering clearance. As an aside, it worth noting that saddle height might need to be lowered as a result. Through the use of Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) testing protocols, the lower profile is claimed to save 22 seconds on a 40km time trial at 40km/h when compared to the Look Keo Carbon Blade. 

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Performance

Unlike traditional systems, the retention mechanism of the Wahoo Speedplay Nanos resides in the cleat itself and not the pedal, and attaches to the sole with four bolts (they're compatible with three-bolt systems). An adaptor base plate and shim inserts help ensure the best fit for your shoe's sole but there's a lot of fiddling needed to get things just right. That said, once you're sorted there's a lot to like here - especially the rubberised walkable cleat cover. When it comes to dialling in ergonomics, the three-axis adjustability of the cleat system - fore-aft, rotational free float and side-to-side - is class-leading. This broad range of cleat adjustability means riders with knee and bike-setup problems can carry out small tweaks to improve pedalling efficacy. Clipping in and out is very much the same as its rivals from France and Japan but the standout with the Speedplay system is the ability to tailor the float (there is up to 15-degrees available). 

There's nothing too complicated going on with the Look Keo Blade and Shimano SPD-SL pedals and that's why they are such popular systems. Pedal operation is similar - the tension range on the SPD-SLs are fairly wide and easier to adjust than the carbon leaf spring system on the Keo Blades. Look does offer three different release tensions which can be implemented by swapping out the carbon leaf spring - 16Nm is standard on the Carbon Ceramic Ti model (12Nm leaf springs are included in the box). 

In terms of cleat options, Shimano offers three colour-coded variations - red (no float), yellow (6-degree float) and the standard blue cleat (2-degrees). They can be a little harder to organise on the sole of the shoe as they have a tendency to slip and slide as you fasten them into place but that's nitpicking more than anything else. The wider cleats supply a greater platform from which to pedal (and walk for that matter) but do have a propensity to wear quickly, which can create lateral play in the pedal system over time. 

Look's cleats are also prone to scuffs and wear out easily if you're not careful. Like Shimano, Look cleats are available in three options that are colour-coded according to their float: black (no float), red (9-degrees), and the standard grey cleat (4.5-degrees). I've personally found that cleats with a range of 2-5 degrees provide enough float to prevent injury and promote a more natural pedalling action. That said, Look's cleats can be adjusted - both laterally and longitudinally - by a respective 4- and 12mm, roughly the same as Shimano's 5- and 11mm adjustment scope.

• Garmin Rally SPD and SPD SL pedal power meter review

Verdict

How do you pick a winner in such esteemed company? It's a tough call as all three options gathered here represent the zenith of each brand. It's also worth considering that each pedal forms part of a model range with cheaper, more affordable options that are just as good if not a fraction heavier than their flagship siblings. Let's just start by mentioning none of the pedals here are without fault and user experience will differ from rider to rider as application, weather and pedal care will have a direct effect on how they perform in the long term.

Wahoo's Speedplay Nano pedals are the lightest pedal here and boast the lowest stack height of the lot - but does that make them the best? They're also dual-sided which will appeal to cyclists of all disciplines and abilities but the complicated nature of the cleat assembly lets it down - especially for those who are new to cycling or are more au fait with the traditional cleat setup. Yes, the cleat system offers excellent levels of adjustability and will operate at a similar level as Look and Shimano - once set up - but this will involve a lot of back and forth and more tweaking than its rivals. 

The Shimano Dura-Ace SPD-SLs are as impressive as the Keos but they're a substantially heavier system, despite the carbon-fibre structure. The platform offers greater real estate than its rivals and the retention system is crisp and secure. The cleats tend to get butchered quite easily which can negatively impact clipping in and out - but most of the time it's merely a cosmetic issue. What lets the Shimano pedals down is the lack of visual drama. Apart from the Dura-Ace logo on the tension bolt end of the pedal, the pedal is almost generic appearance. 

In terms of functionality, the Look Keo Blade is the best option here. Setup is easy and the whole experience is an intuitive and pain-free exercise - it's a case of set and forget. If there's one area of concern it's cleat wear and walkability. Look does, however, supply a cleat option with traction pads - called Keo Grip - which provides better traction and cleat longevity. As an all round option, the Look Keo Blade concept ticks all the boxes for pedal proficiency - they're light, easy to set up, look fantastic and come with a lineage that started the clipless pedal revolution. 

Despite the lofty price, the Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti gets my vote. It's pricier than the Shimano equivalent but substantially cheaper than Wahoo's Speedplay Nanos. Besides, if price is a concern you can always look at the lesser Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic or Keo Blade Carbon - both of which do everything their pricier sibling does save for a few grams and trick innards. 

Tech Specs:

Look Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti pedals

• Price: $375 / £290
• Weight: 190g (95 per pedal)
• Cleat weight: 42g per cleat (bolts included)
• Pedal body: Carbon fibre
• Spindle: Titanium
• Stack height: 14.8mm
• Bearing: Ceramic
• Functionality: Single-sided

Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals

• Price: $449.99 / £379.99
• Weight: 170g (85g per pedal)
• Cleat weight: 81.5g per cleat
• Pedal body: Carbon fibre
• Spindle: Titanium
• Stack height: 11.5mm
• Bearing: Cartridge and needle
• Functionality: Dual-sided

Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 SPD-SL pedals

• Price: $280 / £234.99
• Weight: 234g (117g per pedal)
• Cleat weight: 32g per cleat (bolts included)
• Pedal body: Carbon fibre
• Spindle: Steel
• Stack height: 13.7mm
• Bearing: Cartridge and needle
• Functionality: Single-sided

When it comes to the best road bike pedals, the Wahoo Speedplay pedal has one of the most recognisable silhouettes in the world. Boasting a double-sided clip-in design and comprehensive cleat adjustability, not to mention a ridiculously low weight, the Speedplay pedal concept has garnered a cult following among weight-weenies, competitive amateurs, and WorldTour professionals alike. For 2021, Speedplay pedals will adorn the bikes of EF Education-Nippo and Canyon-SRAM Racing.

Speedplay was founded in 1991 in San Diego, California by Richard Byrne and the company quickly rose to prominence given the level of adjustability and relative hassle-free maintenance required to keep the pedals running true. In 2019, American tech giant Wahoo Fitness purchased Speedplay for an undisclosed amount and rebranded to Wahoo Speedplay. Since the change over ownership, Wahoo has tweaked and simplified the product line-up with four distinct pedal options - the Comp, Zero, Aero and Nano pictured here. That said, Wahoo is targetting the highly competitive best power meter space by adding a fifth model, the Speedplay Powrlink Zero pedal, to the portfolio.

The big splash in terms of the new acquisition has centred around refining and polishing the existing pedal hardware to foster better performance, longevity and ease of use - areas its chief adversaries can sometimes fall short. We've been sampling the Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals for the past three and a half months in a variety of settings ranging from winter and summer weather conditions to indoor and outdoor riding scenarios, and this is what we think of them.

• Look vs Shimano vs Wahoo Speedplay: The ultimate pedal group test

Design and aesthetics

To those who've cut their teeth using pedal stock from Look and Shimano, the Wahoo Speedplays will come as a bit of a shock to the system - both in terms of design and application. They certainly are peculiar looking in the traditional sense but intriguing pedals nonetheless featuring a minimalist aesthetic that many pundits have likened to a lollipop. 

These particular pedals, the Wahoo Speedplay Nanos, are the company's flagship model and feature a combination of titanium and carbon-fibre hardware designed to keep weight to an absolute minimum - in this case, 85g per pedal (170g a pair, actual). Visually, the pedal is characterised by round stainless steel plates that bookend a carbon-fibre pedal body that spins on a titanium spindle. These plates are screwed into the body and designed in a way that not only helps reduce wear and tear but also fosters better clip-in performance, too.

The maker's name - a Wahoo-embossed logo - is located centrally on each side of the pedal which has helped bring a sense of identity and boosted the visual clout together with a contrasting amalgam of super-lightweight materials and textures. The Wahoo logo also serves as a means to tell the left and right pedal apart from each other, very clever indeed. 

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Specifications

The biggest improvement Wahoo set to address with its new Speedplay pedals was to reduce customer maintenance. To achieve this the company looked at ways to increase the durability of the pedal and promote an easier clip-in action - this was established by cutting away and replacing the plastic body with stainless steel. The previous version was prone to grease leakages so a new three-seal bearing system was integrated into the axle and tested on a million cycle bearing rig to ensure optimal performance. Wahoo has also binned the wrench-flat design of the previous version for Allen key retention.

As we've come to expect from this particular pedal setup, the Wahoo Speedplays are dual-sided in application, which has always been a big selling point as they're the only road pedals on the market that offer this functionality. Unlike traditional systems, the retention mechanism resides in the cleat itself and not the pedal, and attaches to the sole with four bolts - though they're still compatible with the more traditional three-bolt system. An adaptor base plate and shim inserts are provided in the box to ensure the best fit for your shoe's sole. 

With Wahoo's improvements, two cleat standards have been issued which will play nicely with previous pedals (they're backwards compatible with all earlier Speedplay Zero models) but not the other way around. There's a standard-tension black cleat for the Nano, Aero and Zero and an easy-tension grey cleat for the Comp. The new cleat system still offers the same three-axis adjustability as before: fore-aft, rotational free float and side-to-side. This broad range of cleat adjustability has made it a popular choice for riders with knee and bike setup problems as small tweaks can easily be carried out.

In terms of performance, the Wahoo Speedplay pedals possess the lowest profile in the segment with a stack height of 11.5mm and, while this might mean lowering your saddle height a touch, the upshot is better cornering clearance. The lower profile has also been put through a series of Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) testing protocols which revealed a saving of 22 seconds on a 40km time trial at 40km/h against the Look Keo pedal. 

But let's get back to the real issue at play here - pedal weight, which always represents a big talking point. Yes, at 85g per pedal they're supremely light but it's worth considering the total system weight when taking the cleats into account. The complex nature of the cleat assembly means a unit weight of 81.5g per cleat. Taking this into account, the total system weight is the heaviest in the segment at 166.5g per pedal/cleat. (Look's Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti system weighs 137g per pedal/cleat while Shimano's Dura-Ace R9100 SPD-SL comes in at 149g per pedal/cleat).

Riding experience

Once you've made the initial time investment of setting everything up, it's hard to find any fault with the pedal system and how it all works. Clipping in and out is straightforward and nothing unlike what we've come to expect from France and Japan. In fact, it's here where the Wahoo Speedplay pedals shine, particularly when it comes to pushing off from a traffic light. Not only are the pedals well balanced and weighted, the double-sided nature means you'll spend less time faffing about and overthinking the clipping-in procedure.

While I wasn't able to put the pedals through their paces in a racing scenario I do believe they'll benefit those who struggle to get going from standstill, not to mention add an extra layer of assurance during cornering situations thanks to the low stack height. Having used the Speedplay Nanos in several COVID-safe time trials, I can vouch for how easy they make pushing off from a standing start. 

Another attribute worth noting is the walkable cleat cover complete with rubberised texture. The traction these covers provide is impressive on most surfaces and far better than its rivals, who sometimes fall short in this regard. (Look and Shimano do supply cleats with traction pads but these do have a propensity for wearing down quite quickly). The cleat cover also serves to protect the sole from scratches and scrapes when walking across gravel and unstable surfaces.

Verdict

Our initial impressions of the Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals were positive when they arrived for testing just under four months ago, with the only real concern coming in the form of correct cleat setup and fitment. Sure, it's easy to get carried away in terms of adjustability and cleat preference but once you've found what works for you it all just falls into place - literally - making them the best option when it comes to biomechanics. The double-sided functionality and low stack height make them ideal for the competitive racer - clipping in is a breeze and the lower risk of pedal strikes compared to its rivals makes them an appealing proposition but they aren't perfect and the weight/price conundrum needs to be taken into account before making any decisions.

Wahoo is quick to point out the individual pedal weight of 85g, which is impressive but the company makes less of a noise when it comes to the 81.5g cleat system. Add these two attributes together and the Wahoo Speedplay Nanos are, in actual fact, the heaviest pedals in the upper rungs of the best road bike pedals segment.  At $449.99/£379.99/€449.99 they're also the costliest option but Wahoo has a diverse product offering boasting Speedplay pedals to sate most budgets which does help its case - the Comp ($149.99/£134.99/€149.99), Zero ($229.99/£199.99/€229.99) and Aero ($279.99/£239.99/€279.99).

There's no denying the work Wahoo has put into refining the Speedplay pedal concept and the system works very, very well but I don't see this particular pedal - the Speedplay Nano - winning over any new customers given the total system weight, price, and investment needed in setting everything up correctly.

Tech Specs: Wahoo Speedplay Nano pedals

• Price: $449.99/£379.99/€449.99
• Weight: 85g, (170g a pair, actual)
• Material: Titanium, stainless steel, carbon fibre
• Retention: Allen key (6mm)
• Float: 15-degrees

The rise of the 3D printer has heralded a new dawn for the cycling industry. Companies are now able to conceptualise and manufacture products at lightning speed while cutting costs, ensuring consistency and quality levels are maintained across the board. And it's not just the major players benefiting from this new technology but start-up firms, too - take the Hexr 3D-printed helmet for example, which we rate as one of the standout products of the past three years.

There are many other companies also exploring a similar route, such as German firm Titanum and its recently unveiled MyTi 3D-printed titanium pedals. What makes these pedals all the more intriguing, however, is not just their appearance but rather the versatility they offer as the ultimate one-pedal solution. 

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Design and aesthetics

There's no denying the intriguing nature of these pedals - both from a visual and material perspective. We're suckers here at Cyclingnews for any kind of carbon fibre and titanium exotica and the MyTi pedals ticks at least one of those boxes. In terms of dimensions, they're even smaller than the Wahoo Speedplay Nanos we unboxed in March and should find favour with weight weenies the world over. They weigh just 51g per pedal (actual).

Of course, it's unfair to judge the pedals pictured here owing purely to their prototype nature. The finished version, which Titanum predicts will be available from June 2021 (granted the Kickstarter campaign goal is achieved), is bound to be more refined. What we love about these pedals, however, is the diminutive size and minimalist design cues, both of which complement the contrasting 3D-printed titanium pedal body and machined titanium spindle.

The cleats are also fashioned using the same 3D-printed technique as the pedals and naturally possess a similar texture and look. Each cleat weighs a scant 20g.

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Specifications 

The entire project represents a partnership between Titanum and Element22 - a global industry leader based in Kiel, Germany that specialises in sinter-based Metal Injection Moulding and 3D printing of various titanium parts for the aerospace industry. 

The MyTi pedal system is 3D-printed from the widely used Ti6Al/4V powder using the Cold Metal Fusion process, which results in less weight yet increased strength. In this case, Titanum claims the pedals are nearly two times stronger than aluminium and saves about 40% weight compared to a steel equivalent. Impressive.

Each pedal incorporates a needle roller bearing that can withstand over 550 kg of pedal force. Keeping the bearings contamination-free and smooth-rolling is a radial lip seal, which is often used for high RPM hydraulics. The total weight of the system comes in at 150g (pedals, cleats, and bolts included). Then there's the class-leading 7.8mm stack height, which trounces the 11.5mm of Wahoo's Speedplay Nanos. The low stack height is achieved using a four-bolt cleat system.

The German company says it will make two versions of the pedals: the 100g MyTi Ultra pictured here and the 140g MyTi R pedals with high-strength stainless steel axles. Like Wahoo's Speedplay, the Titanum MyTi pedals are also dual-sided in application making it super easy to clip in and out. The pedals work using Titanums' patent-pending Blattfeder (leaf spring) technology, with 6-degrees of float and a release angle of fewer than 14 degrees.

Despite the diminutive size and low weight, Titanum reckons the pedals can withstand the rigours of mountain biking and are compatible with two, three, and four-bolt cleat standards meaning they can be switched between bikes.

• Object of Desire: SRM X-Power power meter pedals

Verdict

The best road bike pedal segment is dominated by the perennial favourites - Look, Shimano and Wahoo (Speedplay) - so it's always refreshing to see other options step headfirst into this highly competitive space. These segment stalwarts have forged a reputation over the years for reliability but Titanum has a trump card up its sleeve which could see it garner traction from the weight weenie crowd. 

If the company can secure the necessary funding and refine the concept into a production-ready product, these pedals could do very well - especially considering the dual-sided functionality and that they can be used across myriad disciplines by merely using a different cleat.

If all goes to plan the Titanum MyTi pedals will retail for a staggering €369 placing them in the upper price bracket of the segment.

More information can be found on Titanum's KIckstarter page.

Tech Specs: Titanum MyTi 3D-printed titanium pedals

• Price: €369
• Weight: 102g per pair (150g for the total system: pedal, cleat, bolts)
• Retention: Dual-sided
• Material: Titanium

Wahoo has today announced the rebirth of Speedplay pedals, launching four new pedal systems, as well as confirming the impending release of a power meter pedal. 

The Wahoo Speedplay range now comprises four pedals, the Comp, Zero, Nano and Aero. All of which continue to use the same iconic lollipop shape for which Speedplay is known. The fifth pedal, which will house power meter technology in a pod built onto the spindle, will be known as the Powerlink Zero. 

All but the Aero will feature Speedplay's popular dual-sided entry, with the Aero itself following in its forebear's footsteps by utilising a dimpled cover on the bottom, that will interact with the cleat for a smooth finish when clipped in.

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The range will start at $149.99/£134.99/€149.99 with the Comp, rising to the featherweight Nano, priced at $449.99/£379.99/€449.99, all with immediate availability. 

Pricing is yet to be confirmed for the Powerlink Zero, with the official launch date set for some time in Summer 2021.

The main refinements to the pedals include sealed bearings, which Wahoo claims removes the need for regular maintenance; updates to the pedal body which are said to increase durability; and refinement of the spindle sees the removal of wrench flats in favour of hex key adjustment. 

Unlike Wahoo's competition in the pedal space, the tension of the pedal-cleat interaction cannot be adjusted, so alongside the pedals, the new range will comprise two cleat options with 'standard' and 'easy' tension options. However, where Wahoo outperforms the competition is that the float - the amount of free movement while still clipped in - can be adjusted on the cleat. Each of the two cleat options will retain the 0-15 degrees of available float. 

The cleats themselves will lose their iconic yellow colour, with the standard-tension cleat now being black, while the easy-tension cleat will be finished in grey. They will all feature the dimpled design for aerodynamic efficiency, as well as a rubberised surface for safer and easier walking. They are both compatible with either three- or four-bolt shoe configurations. 

The Comp will come with easy-tension cleats, while the rest in the range will come with standard-tension. 

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Wahoo Speedplay range

One of France’s most recognised cycling brands is splitting. Time has confirmed that its pedal and bicycle businesses have successfully been acquired by SRAM and the Cardinal Cycling Group respectively.

Located nearly perfectly in the middle of France, Time has been innovating within the clipless pedal market since 1987 and since then, some of the most storied riders in modern cycling history have pedalled a set of Time pedals. These include Greg LeMond, Miguel Indurain and Tom Boonen.

Beyond its extensive pedal business (which tallies nine road and three gravel options), Time also produce three carbon-fibre frame models.

Acquired a few years ago by Rossignol, recent market conditions forced a reassessment of Time's business and two transactions have now been completed to change its ownership. The first gives American component powerhouse, SRAM, control of Time's pedal business across both mountain and road operation, while the Cardinal Cycling Group will take Time's road bike portfolio and carbon-fibre producing assets in France.

Closing a gap in SRAM's portfolio

SRAM’s purchase of Time's pedal division makes perfect sense, as this is an area where the American company has not successfully countered Shimano. With the acquisition of Time, there is an opportunity for SRAM to compete among the best road bike pedals, with an established range of products valued for their float and comfort.

This might also create an opportunity for SRAM to use Time's designs for a new range of pedal-based power meters, consolidated as a single product line. 

The SRAM LLC group is already establishing itself in the power meter category. Its Quarq brand manufactures some of the best power meters available, and the company also acquired PowerTap - a brand known for its pedal-based power meters - in 2018, before recently discontinuing the range. 

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With more and more bikes being delivered in boxes or being sold by shops without proper pedals, you need to know how to fit some before you can start riding properly. Happily, it’s a super simple job as long as you take care with the basics.

If you are looking for more helpful maintenance advice, Cyclingnews is bringing you a series of guides so that you can learn how to perform basic bike maintenance tasks yourself. Check out the other guides that are available.

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Tools needed

Depending what pedals you use, you’ll either need a 15mm open-ended wrench (pedal spanner), a 6mm Allen key, or an 8mm Allen key. Whatever the required tool, a long-handled version of it will mean extra leverage for extra security and easier removal.

You’ll also need some grease for the threads and the protective washers that come with some cranks.

1. Pedal inspection

First, work out which pedal is which. With Look and Shimano SPD-SL pedals, this is easy as the rounded part goes at the front and the blunt end is at the back. On Speedplay, MTB-style SPD or Crankbrothers pedals the axles will be marked with left and right.

This is important, because while the right (drive-side) pedal threads clockwise, the left (non drive-side) pedal is threaded anti-clockwise. 

2. Grease and preparation

Fit the crank protection washers onto the pedal axle and then wipe a dab of grease onto the threads to help them screw in and out smoothly. 

Starting with the right-hand drive-side pedal, thread the pedal carefully into the crank by turning the axle clockwise. That means turning it towards the front of the bike if you’re stood looking at it from the drive side and that visual check applies to both sides and stops the pedals loosening as you pedal.

3. Avoid crossthreading

As the thread connects, check from all angles to be sure it’s going in straight. Now take your spanner or Allen key and insert it very securely into the socket or onto the spanner flats. You’re going to put a lot of torque through it so you don’t want it slipping.

4. Tighten the pedals

Now tighten the pedal until the axle flange is snug against the crank arm. You don’t need to crank it up crazy tight as it will naturally tighten slightly as you pedal. If you find the threads starting to stick or tighten before the pedal is fully home then check the axle alignment from all sides. If that’s fine then the threads in the crank might be damaged. Sometimes you can ‘chase them through’ and make them work smoothly again by threading the pedal in from the inboard side of the cranks. If the threads are too damaged though, it’s new crank time.

Assuming the first pedal fits fine, follow the procedure for the offside pedal, remembering to tighten it anti-clockwise. Now you’re good to go.

5. Removing the pedals

Removing a pedal seems simple but there are some tips that will really help. First, remember that drive-side pedals loosen anti-clockwise, but offside pedals loosen clockwise. Be double sure that the tool you’re using is good quality with a good fit onto the pedal too. Otherwise, a slip can damage the tool, the pedal and your knuckles if you accidentally punch the chainrings.

6. Gently apply force

The need for plenty of force and the desire to dodge a chainring punch means we often place the crank at a 5 O’Clock position, the tool at 3 O’Clock and then carefully use a foot to apply the pressure. Don’t do that in road bike shoes though as the soles will just slip.

While you’ve got the pedals out, give them a good clean. Grab the pedal axles and give them a twist and a waggle to check the bearings are still spinning smooth and not tight or wobbling. Clean your cleats and check them for wear at the same time so you know everything will work properly when you refit them.

• Best road bike pedals: Our pick of the best clipless pedals for road cycling
• Road bike groupsets: a comprehensive guide

Individuals carrying out the instructions in this guide do so at their own risk and must exercise their independent judgement. There is a risk to safety if the operation described in the instructions is not carried out with the appropriate equipment, skill and diligence and therefore you may wish to consult a bike mechanic. Future Publishing Limited provides the information for this project in good faith and makes no representations as to its completeness or accuracy. To the fullest extent permitted by law, neither Future Publishing Limited, its supplier or any of their employees, agents or subcontractors shall have any liability in connection with the use of this information, provided that nothing shall exclude or limit the liability of any party for personal injury or death caused by negligence or for anything else which cannot be excluded or limited by law.   

For sale here on eBay are some Diadora Power Drive pedals, which tried to take on the might of Look clipless pedals in the early 1990s, but, well, couldn't…

The introduction of Look's clipless pedals - which is still one of the best road bike pedals around - to the peloton in the mid-1980s, with the charge led by five-time Tour de France winner Bernard Hinault, spelled the end of toe-clips and straps – hence the term 'clipless' – although the likes of Irish Classics specialist Sean Kelly held on to the old ways into the 1990s, only eventually succumbing to the new-fangled pedals in the final years of his career.

The design by French company Look was based on the way a ski binding worked, allowing solid foot retention when required, but with an easy, twist-out motion of the foot to disengage, although everyone – and it is almost everyone – will remember using clipless pedals for the first time, which normally involves the process of a red traffic light, stopping, panicking and falling slowly sideways.

We're putting these pedals' manufacturing date around the early 1990s, and the £160 price tag still visible on the box made them – and would still make them – a premium product.

The pedals seem to be made from a chunk of aluminium, as do the cleats, which certainly wouldn't make them anywhere close to as light as today's plastic and carbon pedals. The proprietary cleats appear to come in both a 'static' and 'dynamic' option when it comes to foot retention, which presumably refers to the amount of 'float' allowed for your foot.

We recently featured these Eddy Merckx-branded Podio pedals (and shoes) from around the same era; many tried, but almost as many failed, to jump in on the clipless-pedal revolution, and other pedal manufacturers that came later and survived include Shimano and Speedplay.

The fact that the seller – who's asking for US$79 (£60) for these 'new old stock' (NOS) pedals – is based in Italy adds an element of extra authenticity to this Italian product; Diadora remains best known as a continuing manufacturer of sports clothing and training shoes. Will they ever try pedals again, though?

We're constantly on the lookout for unique and rare cycling relics on eBay. If you have any suggestions or leads, please send them to cyclingnews@cyclingnews.com with 'eBay Finds' in the subject line.

Look was founded in 1951, after Jean Beyl invented the Look Nevada Dual Pivot ski binding, after breaking his leg using a fixed binding. The brand then adapted this technology for cycling, and in 1984 launched the first automatic release clipless pedals, the PP65, and were used by Bernard Hinault to win the Tour de France the following year. 

Look is prominent on the race circuit with Movistar, AG2R La Mondiale, UAE Team Emirates, Lotto-Soudal, Astana, and Confidis are all pushing the french brand's pedals.

Read on for a rundown of Looks road pedals available today or jump to the bottom for everything you need to know.

Skip to: What to know about Look road pedals

Look road pedals available today

When it comes to bike industry buzzword bingo, Look’s Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti will fill the entire card. Using Look’s Carbon Blade leaf-spring technology, the Keo Blade Ceramic Ti tips the scales at under 100g per side and features a carbon pedal body. 

Beyond the weight savings, Look says using a blade instead of a traditional spring system also makes for a more aerodynamic pedal, and the bowing of the blade when un-clipping means the required disengagement torque is reached sooner, allowing for faster cleat release. However, with the carbon blade situated on the belly of the pedal, it is susceptible to damage, and we've even seen a few snap. The pedals come with a 16- and 12Nm blade in the box with a 20Nm version sold separately.

A titanium spindle spins inside ceramic bearings, which the brand says will last four to six times longer than comparable stainless steel bearings, and create 18 per cent less friction than a traditional bearing. These pedals also see a new double seal system that IPX7 rated for full immersion and IPX6 with a rotating pedal exposed to water jets. The Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic Ti features a 67mm contoured pedal platform, which mostly eliminates the rocking experienced with previous versions, and creates a 700mm² platform.

Replacing the Titanium spindle with a Chromoly axle, the Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic is almost identical to its more expensive sibling, claimed to weigh 110g per side. 

The Keo Blade Carbon Ceramic sees the same carbon leaf-spring retention, carbon body, contoured stainless steel pedal platform, and near waterproof ceramic bearings. With a 700mm² pedalling platform, they come with two sets of 12Nm blades, with the 16- and 20Nm sold separately.

Occupying the base level of Look's Keo Carbon range, the Keo Blade, sees a carbon pedal body, carbon leaf-spring-based retention, a Chromoly spindle, and stainless steel bearings. While the spec list doesn’t have quite as many bullet points as the higher-end pedals; the Keo Carbon still feature the 67mm body width, 700mm² platform area, the all-important contoured stainless pad, and are claimed to weigh 115g per side. 

Out of the box, the Keo Blade Carbon comes with the 8Nm release tension blade installed, with a 12Nm included in the box. As they are a paired down version of the more expensive models, stronger blades can be installed if needed. 

Using the same cleat, the Keo 2 Max Carbon borrows many of the design cues from the Keo Blade; except instead of a carbon leaf spring retaining the cleat, the pedals have a standard steel coil spring for cleat retention. It adds some weight to the pedal but makes adjusting the release tension a job that can be done on the roadside, and also makes the pedal settle in the right orientation when you unclip, so you won’t need to paw at it before you clip in.

As the name suggests, the pedal body is made from carbon, and the pedals are claimed to weigh 125g per side. The platform is 60mm wide, making for a 500mm² platform area, though the stainless steel pad lacks the contouring found on the Keo pedals, which can create the sloppy connection and rocking that has plagued the french pedals for years. 

The Keo 2 Max is essentially the same as its carbon compatriot, except for the price, and the composite pedal body, which adds 5g of weight. It has the same spring-loaded and adjustable cleat retention, 500mm² pedal platform, and stainless steel pad.

That additional five grams of weight also saves you $35 off the retail price.

Not everyone who is after a set of clipless pedals is counting grams or knows their watts/kilo, and cares whether the pedal bodies are carbon, composite or metal. For riders just making the swap from flats to clipless pedals, the Keo Classic 3 is an ideal stepping stone into clipless pedals. Priced at $60, they offer a composite body, durable Chromoly spindle, and adjustable release tension, so you get your foot out in a panic before you tip over.

The platform is 60mm wide and has an area of 400mm², and they are claimed to weigh 130g per side

The Keo Classic 3 Plus builds on the Classic by adding extra stainless steel around the contact area for improved longevity, which Look says also adds stiffness to the pedal body — and 10g per side.

It still offers the same coil spring with adjustable release tension, Chromoly spindle, and 400mm² platform area. 

Power meter pedals are gaining in popularity, and Look has joined forces with SRM to create the Exakt. Available as a single side or double side pedal, the Exakt is based on the previous version Keo Max pedal body and sees an adjustable steel coil spring providing the release tension. 

All of the electronics are enclosed in the steel axle to read power and spin on an oversized ball bearing and needle bearing. To prevent water ingress, the axel has a sealed blue clap on the outside, and a double joint system inside, that is 1PX6/7 certified. The Bluetooth and ANT+ enabled power meters are claimed to be accurate to +/-1.5 per cent and can output power, cadence, torque analysis, and L/R balance. The pedals are USB rechargeable and claimed to hold enough juice for 100 hours of ride time.

What to know about Look road pedals?

1. Cleats

Any pedal that has Keo in the name will work with the Keo cleats while some of the legacy pedals, third-party brands and many spin bikes use the older style Delta cleats.

Look makes the Keo cleats in a standard and grip version, the latter has small rubber pads on the bottom edge for walking traction. If you’re looking to buy a set of Keo Blade pedals, we would strongly recommend factoring a set of Keo Grip cleats into the price, as walking on the standard cleats can be downright dangerous. All versions of the Keo 2 Max and Keo Classic come with the grip cleats. Your guess is as good as ours as to why Look does this, but tread carefully.

The Keo and Keo grip cleats are available in three float options, 0-degree (black) 4.5-degree (grey) and 9-degree (red). Every set of pedals comes with the 4.5-degree float grey cleats.

Look also makes changing cleats painless and straightforward with its ‘memory positioner,’ but your shoe will need to have the fourth hole and mounting hardware to take advantage

2. Contoured pad

For many years Look pedals have suffered from a bit of side to side rocking, which as the cleats wear out, and some grit finds its way into the system, would eventually lead to squeaking. 

The culprit was the flat stainless steel pad on the pedal body. It's something that was widely reported, and we even saw riders going as far as using a strip of bar tape to fill the gap and tighten up the connection. Finally, on its latest Keo Blade pedals, Look has quietly introduced a contoured stainless steel pad that fixes the problem.

3. Blade

Look’s flagship pedals utilise a carbon leaf spring for cleat retention rather than a steel coil spring as used on most other pedal systems. The main advantage here comes in the form of weight; a thin blade of carbon is significantly lighter than a steel spring. This carbon leaf spring also allows the pedal to cut a svelte silhouette which is said to be more aero and claimed to make for quicker engagement and disengagement.

Situated on the bottom of the pedal body, Look uses these leaf springs to release tensions from 8Nm, all the way up to 20Nm. Swapping tensions is a simple process even for the hamfisted home mechanic but it's not a job that you would want to do roadside. Being on the bottom of the pedal body, they are square in the firing line of road crud kicked up off your tires, and we have seen them sustain damage and even break. The other downside is the weighting of the pedals which can make taking off from a red light a frustrating exercise as you paw at the platform hoping to clip in.

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The golden age of bicycle commuting is upon us. As lockdown restrictions ease, fewer cars exist on the road and governments promise better bicycle transport integration, there has never been a better time to make most of your journeys by bicycle.

One component which is common across all bikes, and can affect the ride of even the best commuter bikes, is pedals. Whether you are rolling about town on a steel-framed fixie or using one of the latest e-bike commuters, pedal choice is every bit as important as it would be on a carbon-fibre road racing frame.

What are the differences?

Quite the oxymoron, clipless pedals are those into which you clip your feet. The name is an adaptation of the old toe clip pedals found on racing bikes of old. With innovation came the removal of the up-and-over toe clip, and thus the clipless pedal was born.

Clipless pedals use a sprung mechanism which enables a cleat - which fits to your shoe - to be affixed to the pedal. To unclip, one is required to twist their foot (usually heel away from the bike), which will release the cleat, and thus, your foot.

• Best road bike pedals

Flat pedals are more literal in their name, comprising a flat platform onto which almost any shoe can interface. Basic flat pedals feature a steel spindle with a plastic platform, while some use aluminium or steel for a sturdier platform and increased durability.

• Best MTB flat pedals

All pedals - besides a few quirky flash-in-the-pan attempts at redesigning the wheel - use the same thread pattern, which essentially means any pedal will fit any bike. 

However, it's important to note that the left and right pedal are always different and can never be interchanged. This isn't immediately obvious on flat platform pedals, but while the right pedal uses a standard clockwise thread, the left pedal will use an anti-clockwise thread, which prevents it from undoing itself as you pedal along. 

They will usually be marked with an L and an R. 

Which is best for commuting?

The pedal choices are seemingly simple: flat or clipless. But which is best for your commute? That depends on the bike you will be riding, the distances involved, your footwear preferences and to a degree, personal fitness threshold.

Riders who have built dedicated lightweight commuters, purposed to travel significant distances each day, will have different pedal needs to someone who is using one of our best folding bikes with a train journey in the middle.

Weather conditions, fitness and riding skill will also guide your pedal choice. Clipless pedals can make novice riders anxious, best not to risk learning to clip and unclip in busy traffic. If you are unsure, ride flats.

Experienced riders who might be at the mercy of longer routes can benefit from the efficiency of being clipped-in, especially with having your foot in a fixed position to ensure most effective biomechanics. Those who are in stop-start city streets might be better served without having to clip in and out at every stoplight.

Flat pedals: The pros and cons

While clipless has taken over in competition, flat pedals are still in popular demand with the mountain biking fraternity. Advances in platform shape, materials and durability are still in development and mountain bike pedals have become extremely refined. If you are keen on riding your commuter with flat pedals, what is there to be learned from mountain bikers about making the best possible choice?

The answer is simple: shoes. Mountain bikers have long considered the pedal and shoe to be a singular system. As a commuter, you might not wish to be wheelieing your way to work, dropping steps and going foot-out-flat-out, but your foot slipping off your pedal is definitely annoying, probably painful, and possibly worse. 

Having your shoes slip off a flat pedal, especially in rainy conditions, can have consequences which vary between momentary pain and severe injury. A shin strike can be wincing, but when travelling at speed among traffic, a slipped pedal could trigger an even worse crash.

• Best folding bikes: Our pick of the best folding bikes for urban riding
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Applying the same logic to your commuting pedal choice means you need appropriately patterned rubber soles to bind with the pins or rubber studs of a flat pedal. Shoes complete the look for many and there is no reason why you should sacrifice the balance of a tailored appearance, for having a safe flat pedal commute.

There is plenty of choice in stylish flat pedal riding shoes, all with quality rubber soles that will create a secure contact point with your choice of flat pedals. You can now confidently step on a set of pedals with ergonomically tailored casual riding shoes which won’t painfully slip a pedal – or embarrass you when sauntering into the local store or the office.

Flat pedals are also the obvious choice for e-bike commuters, where battery-assistance negates any need for clipped-in pedalling efficiency. Inexperienced riders who are starting their e-bike journey will feel a great deal more confident on flat pedals, to familiarise themselves with the synchronicity of their own cadence and a battery-powered hub motor helping them along.

For riders in city streets, where stopping and starting is the norm, the time spent trying to clip into clipless pedals (not to mention the risks of failing to unclip) could quickly outweigh the benefits of increased pedalling efficiency. Flat pedals are faster in that initial start because there's no need to 'find the pedal'.

The case for clipless

Considering on-the-bike application alone, clipless pedals are a superior choice. Designed for cycling, the clipless pedal is more efficient at power delivery, it negates the possibility of slipping a pedal, and offers greater comfort due to optimising the interface position between foot and pedal. 

For rides who are not going to be using electric bikes and wish to convert their pedalling power to obsessively efficient propulsion, there is no arguing against clipless pedals. Yes, there is the risk of not being able to unclip swiftly enough at low speeds, but with practice and some loosening of the pedals' tension screws, this issue is easily resolved.

As with flat pedal riding shoes and the question of appearance, there are some wonderfully fashionable clipless options available. It is entirely possible to have the efficiency of a clipless pedal's power transfer, without the awkwardness of arriving at a meeting or social occasion in shoes which look like they should be in a Grand Tour pro peloton.

For those who want to commute in all weathers, there's every chance you'll have a change of clothes - or at least shoes - at work. Offices are becoming more and more accommodating to cycle commuters by installing showers and locker rooms, however, the simple addition of spare shoes under your desk could open you up to clipless shoes, and perhaps more importantly, the best winter cycling shoes.

The final word

Ultimately, the question of clipless or flat pedals does not have a one-size fits all answer. If you're confident using clipless pedals in traffic, then as far as pedalling efficiency is concerned, clipless will be the better option. The downfall will be whether or not it means carrying spare shoes for the journey, which can be bulky. 

Flat pedals can negate the requirement for spare shoes, but pedalling efficiency will suffer, and if you're an all-weather commuter, then wearing wet shoes throughout a working day will be far from pleasant. 

Two-in-one pedals, such as Shimano's M324, enable you to choose on the day, depending on weather, distance and logistics of your day ahead. 

Stages Cycling might have brought affordability to the segment with its crank-based power meter systems but it's the pedal-based units from PowerTap, Garmin and now Favero Electronics that are fast-becoming the go-to choice among cyclists. This despite weighing a considerable amount more than the crank-based alternative

Not only are power pedals easy to swap between bikes but the plug-and-play nature also nullifies the need for complex fitting procedures as experienced by crank, hub, spindle and spider-based power meters.

Favero Electronics may be a newcomer to the power-meter game but the Italian manufacturer has taken the fight to PowerTap and Garmin by offering a lighter and more affordable power pedal - called the Assioma. In fact, they weigh just 150g per pedal, which is less than the Garmin Vectors and PowerTap P2s.

Design

Boasting a 10.5mm stack height, the Favero Assioma Duo pedals are a tidy-looking package and virtually impossible to tell apart from its Uno sibling, the only real difference being that it measures power directly at each axle. All the sensors and strain gauges are located in the housing pod next to the pedal body. This nifty pod construction feature not only helps impart a more traditional pedal appearance but also ensures the electronics won't get damaged by impacts or falls.

All the electronic parts of the Assioma pedals have been sealed inside a bicomponent resin block in the pod housing making it easier to maintain down the line. The pedal body is replaceable and the pod is waterproof (IP67 certified) so you can ride throughout the winter months without the risk of damaging the electronic innards and strain gauges.

Specification, set-up and calibration

You'll need to download the Favero Electronics app onto your smartphone to initiate the pedal activation process before heading out on your first ride. Failing to do so will render the pedals useless as they won't transmit any data to your cycling computer.

Pairing the power pedals to your cycling computer is a fairly straightforward exercise. Simply search for your pedals, set your crankarm length and perform a zero-offset or 'calibration'. As a rule of thumb, we recommend performing a zero-offset before every ride as it allows the power meter to adapt to changes in ambient air temperature and avoid any power anomalies - it also serves as a health check of sorts and will show up any looming errors.

The rechargeable lithium-ion batteries are claimed to last around 50+ hours - we logged an impressive 53 hours on average per charge. Much of the battery pack's efficiency stems from what Favero calls 'Start/Stop technology' which automatically puts the pedals on stand-by when inactivity is detected - they will instantly power up again upon rotating the crank.

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In terms of the charging process, the Assioma Duo pedals can be topped up at the same time thanks to a double micro-USB cable with magnetic power connectors. You can also check the charge level at any time using the Favero Assioma app but, to give you an idea, the 'low battery' signal will flash on your GPS when you've got 8 hours or less of charge left.

Riding experience

Unlike other power meters that harvest data based on the angular velocity of the crank arm through each rotation, the Assioma uses an instantaneous angular velocity (IAV) measuring technique thanks to an on-board gyroscopic sensor. According to Favero, the IAV way of harvesting data is class-leading with accuracy to a maximum deviation of only one per cent.

Compared to some of the other power meters we have on test, the Favero Assioma Duo pedals are not as generous when it comes to dishing out free watts - power is earned here but this is more a case of accuracy than anything else. Benchmarked against the Elite Direto X smart turbo trainer, the Assiomas were bang-on in terms of power data - both in the low- and mid-range bands. At times they appeared to read a little lower in the sprints but, on the whole, the readings are consistent and repeatable.

My only bugbear - and I'm nitpicking here - is they aren't weighted like a traditional pedal.  What I mean is that when you come to a halt and have to start pedalling again, the pedals spin freely on the axles, making it difficult to clip in.

Other than that, the platform is wide and supportive enough to promote an even transfer of power and the entire feel, as well as feedback, is in line with what you'd expect from a traditional pedal. In fact, it functions and feels a lot like the Look Keo - one of my personal favourites. Speaking of Look, the Favero pedals are built around the French company's cleat system and are compatible with Look cleats.

Verdict

It's appreciably hard to critique a power meter, let alone a power pedal, owing to the myriad preferential factors that come into play when making an informed decision. For me, personally, consistency is king, and reliability will always trump weight when it comes to tech of this nature. That said, as far as pedal formats go, the Favero Assioma Duos are far from portly and comparatively light on the power pedal spectrum, weighing in at 150g apiece.

Furthermore, they're accurate, consistent across the power curve and beautiful to look at. In fact, save for the housing pods, it's almost impossible to tell it apart from a traditional road bike pedal and that's another reason why it appeals to me - it's stealthy in every respect. And because the pedals broadcast constantly on both ANT+ and Bluetooth Smart, you can use them with Zwift or any other indoor cycling app.

The kicker here, however, is the affordability, ease of use and longterm maintenance benefits it brings its users. If you're in the market for something reliable, accurate, and affordable, the Favero Assioma Duo power pedals get our recommendation and stamp of approval.

Log book

• Mileage: 3,188km
• Test term: 6 months
• Platforms used: Outdoor, indoor, Zwift, RGT

Tech spec: Favero Assioma Duo power pedals

• RRP: £611 / €695
• Weight: 300g (actual, 150g per pedal)
• Measurement: Dual-sided
• Battery life: 50+ hours
• Battery type: Rechargeable lithium-ion
• Accuracy: +/- 1 per cent
• Cleat system: Look

Results

This article originally appeared on BikeRadar

At Interbike, Speedplay is showing prototypes of its forthcoming Aero Pedal System, a one-side Zero pedal with a dimpled underside that, when clipped into the aero cleat, creates a smooth, unbroken surface all the way down to the shoe sole.

Speedplay's Zero pedal system is "upside down" compared to most road pedals, in that cleat has moving parts for engagement instead of the pedal. The company claims this system allows for more cornering clearance, lower weight, better float and easier disengagement. The Aero Pedal System will keep all the same design except for the double-sided entry.

As the pedal is still in prototype form, Speedplay does not have a weight or any pricing to give. The Aero Pedal System should be available by early 2015, company representatives told BikeRadar.

The Cleat Buddy is a screw-in plug to protect the Zero cleat

It's not that often that a cyclo-cross race creates as many mechanical problems for riders as occurred during the first round of the Superprestige series in Ruddervoorde on Sunday afternoon. Several riders felt that their bike let them down when it mattered most. Although Klaas Vantornout (Sunweb-Revor) felt riders shouldn't complain.

During the post-race chats with riders at the finish in Ruddervoorde, it was hard not to find one who talked about the mechanical problems he encountered. Here's a round-up...

Winner Niels Albert (BKCP-Powerplus): "My pedals were still set quite tight from Saturday's race where we didn't have to get off the bikes much. It was my own mistake and it took a lot of time before it was re-adjusted because first I had to inform the mechanics and then wait one more lap to get a good bike. I was really mad at myself."

World champion Zdenek Stybar (Quick Step-Innergetic): "My chain dropped twice. It was my own fault because I changed gears before taking the corner."

Bart Wellens (Telenet-Fidea): "I clicked out of my pedals twice. I'm using a new type of pedals and they are quite tight so I told my mechanics to open them up a little during the first two laps. It didn't help at all and tomorrow I'll fit back the old pedals on my bike."

Sven Nys (Landbouwkrediet): "Every time I shifted back to the small ring on the descents ahead those steep climbs my chain dropped. The first couple of times I bounced back, but after about six times I cracked. It never happened during training and today it happened with all three of my bikes, certainly four or five times. After a while I had to ride much more carefully."

All these complaints sounded weary to Vantornout who lived up to his straight-talking reputation.

"Nys should shift in the descent instead of the corner, or if thinks that his bike was poorly set-up he should fire his mechanics. The same with these pedals. We're all riding with the same equipment so it's no excuse. Everybody encounters the same misery so one shouldn't blame a poor result on that," he said.

In the small but high-level Flemish cyclo-cross scene the reaction from Vantornout is a tricky one. First of all, because he's openly telling living-legend Sven Nys to stop whining and secondly, because most riders get along with each other quite well. None of the riders is currently in a war of words with one another, like Sven Nys and Bart Wellens (Telenet-Fidea) have in the past. However, the Vantornout-reaction shows that the pressure on both mechanics and riders is mounting. Ruddervoorde showed that finishing on the podium might become a rarity for the usual suspects and it will only make everyone's nerves more tense.

While many of the biggest names of the contemporary peloton have been on show at the Tour of Oman this week, some greats of yesteryear have been following the race.

Eddy Merckx is on hand in his role as race director, while Bernard Hinault has also arrived in the Gulf State to keep a close eye on proceedings. With ten Tours de France, eight Giri d’Italia and four rainbow jerseys between them, Formula One legend Alain Prost could hardly have asked for two better guides than Merckx and Hinault when he took to the roads of Oman.

Not that Prost is any slouch himself and since retiring from driving, the Frenchman is as often seen on two wheels as he is on four, and is a regular on the cyclosportive circuit. Indeed, Prost competed in the very first Etape du Tour in 1993, the same year that he captured the fourth of his world titles. On Saturday morning, he rode part of the course of the stage five time trial in the company of Merckx.

Shimano has addressed the one major complaint with its previous Dura-Ace pedals with the introduction of the latest PD-7900 model. By swapping in a carbon composite body – but retaining everything that was already so good – they've been able to shave off about 30g for a more competitive 250g actual weight per pair (plus 75g for cleats and hardware). They're as surefooted, solid and bombproof as ever but now a little lighter on the scale.

In with the new but keeping the old

Underfoot, the new pedal is indistinguishable from its heavier aluminum counterpart (and we intentionally ran mixed pairs during testing). Clipping in requires the usual firm – but not overly so – push and you're rewarded with an audible and tactile 'click' when you're properly attached. Unless your cleat is clogged with mud, engagement is smooth and easy, with the big platform offering up a quick, no-look target for your foot.

Once under way, a massive 64mm-wide replaceable stainless steel plate lends superb support for your foot without even the slightest hint of out-of-plane rocking – even more so than Look's recently enlarged KéO platform, which is the same width (but isn't replaceable). The plate provides a smooth surface on which the included six-degree cleats can float to help save your knees but with the slightest hint of resistance to prevent that 'walking on ice' feeling.

Release is as simple and straightforward as always – just twist in or out – and the tension adjustment offers an impressively broad range. New riders (who are unlikely to use these top-end pedals anyway) might find the lower limit to still be a tad firm but sprinters should be plenty happy with the other end of the spectrum.

Café stops highlight another long-standing benefit. The dual-density cleats use a hard plastic compound for a sure and safe engagement plus a smooth float, with softer – and admirably grippy – bits positioned at the very tip and also way out to the sides. This makes walking on dicey stairs and slick polished concrete floors a notably less scary experience.

Long-term durability on more common surfaces like sidewalks and asphalt could be better but in our view, it's a worthy price to pay for safety and at about US$25 a set, Shimano's SPD-SL cleats are still the least expensive of all the major brands.

Speaking of durability, Shimano thankfully have retained the previous Dura-Ace pedal's bulletproof triple-bearing spindle design. Built around a tough steel axle, the cartridge design incorporates three sets of bearings per pedal – two ball and one needle – all of which are easily adjustable and serviceable as needed. We have Dura-Ace pedals that are generations old and aside from needing to replace those older plastic plates on occasion, those are still in service and spinning as freely as new – and utterly silently throughout, with nary a hint of extra maintenance.

Not exactly a bargain but still an excellent long-term investment

Unfortunately, these latest Dura-Ace pedals also bring a substantial price increase to go along with the weight decrease: official retail price is now $349.99 as compared to $299.99 for the alloy version. According to Shimano US press officer Devin Walton, the current PD-7810 model will still be available but perhaps not for long, depending on customer demand.

"We actually continue existing models while there is still reasonable demand," he told us. "That being said, the added benefits of the 7900 will probably quickly displace demand for the PD-7810."

Perhaps, but more value-minded riders may find the 7900 model a tough sell. True, they offer what is likely the best long-term durability of any clipless road pedal we've used but it's tough to argue with the numbers. The standard Look KéO Carbon is roughly half the price and just 259g a set, Speedplay's stainless steel Zero is lighter still and not much more expensive, and even Shimano's own Ultegra offers nearly identical durability, platform and consistency benefits to the Dura-Ace flagship but at half the cost and with an extra 70g or so.

Feel free to knock off a star based on that if you feel the need, but in terms of sheer performance, mechanical function and long-term durability, there's not a single flaw we can find here. Ask us five years from now and we'll probably still be using these.

Specifications:

Price: $349.99
Weight: 250g/pair (plus 75g for cleats and hardware)
Features: The wide flat profile gives better road clearance and cornering, also allowing wider bearing placement for increased rigidity and uniform load distribution
Silky smooth 3-bearing axle system, two ball- and one wide roller-bearing
Stainless steel pedal body plate for increased durability
Open design allows for easy access and cleat adjustments
Wider shoe cleat has a long life and is easier for walking than other cleats
Large binding target allows quick engagement while wide cleats provides more efficient pedalling
Two types of shoe cleats available: fixed, or 3 degrees of float in each direction

Cyclingnews rating: 5 stars

The sudden disappearance of his left pedal in the final sprint of the Superprestige round in Gieten last week could have turned out much worse for Sven Nys. The Belgian champion was in the lead group as the line approached, but as he launched his sprint, his Shimano XTR pedal became detached from the crank arm - something that could have easily caused a serious crash.

Luckily for Nys, he stayed upright and was able to run his bike across the line for fourth place. Luckier still, the three men ahead of him weren't contending for the overall series victory, and Nys was able to maintain his overall lead.

At the time, there was much speculation as to what happened to the pedal. Did it break? Did it come unthreaded? Both scenarios seemed unlikely considering the reputation of the Shimano pedal and of the mechanics who service Nys's bikes.

The Belgian newspaper Het Nieuwsblad examined Nys' bike after the race, and they had the impression the pedal had just come off the crank. Fons Wouters, Nys' mechanic, didn't agree with that theory when interviewed last week. "That the pedal would've turned off the crank during the race is hard to believe. ... If the pedal had been loose then Sven would've noticed right away, leaving him without a chance to even think about all-out sprinting," Wouter told Het Nieuwsblad.

Shimano requested an investigation, as it would with any equipment failure. They seemed convinced the pedal came unscrewed from the crank arm and, after looking into the issue with the team, both parties agreed today that this was the case.

"Shimano investigated the incident together with the Landbouwkrediet team management. Both parties agree that the pedal was not tightened well enough. This means that the pedal did not break, as was reported in various media. We hope this decision clarifies all the uncertainties surrounding this incident."

Before the conclusion was reached, Wouters did agree that the Shimano pedals hadn't failed in 15 years, and said, "Luckily Nys isn't a bad-tempered person, but of course we want to keep mistakes likes these out of our game; this is top sport. Nys could have crashed and broken a collarbone, bringing an end to his season."

Look's latest flagship road pedal trades in the usual wound steel spring in favour of a flexible carbon fibre 'blade'. Though one might think the primary motivation for doing so is reducing weight, the main benefit is the difference in feel produced by the altered spring curve.

Even compared to Look's own KéO 2 Max, the KéO Blade offers a much snappier engagement and release that's noticeable from the first time you clip in. It's not that the resistance is higher but rather that it comes on more immediately when the rear gate is flexed open.

As a result, you're either very much 'in' or very much 'out' and there's no vagueness in between, whereas with the standard system there's a short period where the rear gate is flexed open and you're still partially engaged.

The carbon blade system does carry with it some drawbacks, though. Look offer the KéO Blade pedals with either a 12Nm or 16Nm spring (roughly corresponding to the softer and harder settings of a standard KéO) but there's no fine adjustment from there and users can't easily switch between the two on their own (qualified dealers are equipped with special tools to make the swap).

In addition, while the blade is prominently displayed on the outside bottom edge of the pedal for all to admire, it's also in prime position for damage in a crash. To be fair, it is a replaceable part, though we can't help but wonder if a particularly bad wreck might damage the spring so badly that the pedal is disabled.

Otherwise, the pedal is simply superb. The titanium spindle rotates virtually drag-free on three silky-smooth cartridge bearings and longer threads afford a bit of stance width adjustment for those in need.

Up top, Look have further improved upon the KéO 2 Max's wide stainless steel plate with an even bigger and wider piece on the KéO Blade that provides the expected gains in foot stability – those coming from older-style KéOs will notice a huge improvement.

Not surprisingly, the carbon fibre blade and long-fibre composite body and rear gate construction yield an impressive showing on the scales. Our test set weighs just 185g per pair, plus 74g for cleats and hardware.

The non-replaceable stainless steel plate is even bigger and wider than on the standard KéO 2 Max.

Look even include two sets of cleats, too: one bi-density set for a silkier rotational float and smoother engagement, and another with grip material on the bottom for easier walking. In either case, cleat covers are included so you don't slip and embarrass yourself on the way to picking up your macchiato at the counter.

Lack of adjustability and crash damage susceptibility aside, the Look KéO Blade's biggest downside is its price – a whopping US$499 per pair. While they're truly excellent road pedals, only the very well-to-do are likely to be able to justify their exorbitant cost.

Look's ubiquitous KéO road pedal receives a significant update in the new KéO 2 Max, with a wider composite body and co-moulded stainless steel upper plate that lends a more solid feel underfoot and less out-of-plane rocking compared to the original KéO.

The stainless steel plate also yields smoother rotational float than before plus seemingly more resistance to long-term body wear – a good thing considering they're not replaceable. 

Just 4.5 degrees of lateral movement is provided by the included grey KéO Grip cleats but optional red cleats double that figure for those who need it. Fully fixed cleats are available too. 

When it comes for your mid-ride cafe stop, soft rubber pads on the front and back of the cleats help prevent embarrassing spills on slick floors.  

However, they do wear pretty quickly if you spend too much time ambling about, in contrast to Shimano's SPD-SL cleat which uses a longer lasting compound.

One other note about the cleats: keep them clean and be mindful of wear. Our KéO testers ran nice and quietly for their first few hard weeks but eventually started to develop a subtle squeak under hard pedaling load (or when we ran a year-old set of KéO cleats).

Clean them thoroughly and the din mostly goes away but it's still disappointing that we should have to do that sort of thing when other pedal designs run silent in nearly all conditions.

Otherwise, everything that was good about the first KéO design thankfully carries over. Entry and exit are intuitive and smooth, the release tension has plenty of adjustment range and the easy-to-service cartridge-style chromoly axle assemblies rotate on three silky bearings each. 

The new KéO 2 Max axles also have a pedal washer-friendly 2mm of additional threading for riders who need to run a wider stance.  

Our base-level test pedals cost just US$179.99 but weigh only 259g per pair – a modest 65g more than last year's pricey KéO Carbon Titanium at less than half their cost.  

For now, just three KéO 2 Max models are available and none has titanium spindles but we expect that option will be added soon enough to satisfy the weight weenies.

Weight: 259g (per pair, without cleats); 75g (cleats and hardware, per pair)
Pros: Noticeably wider platform is very stable underfoot, reasonable price, lightweight, smooth and easy entry/exit, wide range of release tension adjustment, easily serviced and silky-running bearings.
Cons: In-molded steel plate isn't replaceable, cleat walking surfaces wear quickly, still some occasional squeaking issues.

Menchov heads a heady three

By Anthony Tan in Riomaggiore, Italy

Denis Menchov. So much raw power. And as of Thursday evening in Riomaggiore, the new maglia rosa of the Centenary Giro d'Italia.

The Russian from Rabobank began the day 1:20 behind overnight leader Danilo Di Luca. He expected to go well. Three days prior, he forewarned Cyclingnews, "You have to be in top condition for that one special day, even if it is not really a day for specialists."

At each of the three time checks along this sinuous, undulating, tough-as-nails percorso that measured 60.6 kilometres - the profile of which we've never seen before in modern Giro d'Italia history - the 31-year-old, two-time Vuelta a España champion showed his condition was indeed ottima (the highest); out of 187 riders, the fastest after 18.6, 34.5, 44.5 kilometres, and, of course, by the finish.

To succeed, it required not just superlative form to tackle the climbs of Bracco and Termine, that together amounted to more than 1,100 metres' elevation, but an equal dose of nail-biting descending that would have burned through those rubber brake blocks that differentiate between life and death, finesse as well.

Thursday in Cinque Terre, Menchov had both in spades.

"I'm a big tour rider, so it's very important to have the maglia rosa. It's a great personal satisfaction, and it's good for Russian cycling," said Menchov.

"I knew the time gaps were going to be close between the best riders [after the time trial] because Di Luca is in very good condition. I thought I'd have the [pink] jersey by a few seconds," he said, 40 seconds separating the current top three on the classifica generale - although from 4th to 10th, the gaps are wider, ranging from Liquigas' Franco Pellizzotti at 2:00 to Thomas Lövkvist of Team Columbia-High Road, 5:53 in arrears.

"It's true, I came here better than last year. But even though today was a great day, it was more or less what I expected," Menchov told Cyclingnews.

It appears we have a maglia rosa quietly confident.

Is he, like many describe his pink-suited predecessor Di Luca, a cold-blooded killer? Is he out for blood in this Giro, Cyclingnews asked him a few days ago?

"Am I dangerous?" said Menchov rhetorically.

"I think I am a simple person, just a cyclist and not so dangerous," he said, smiling.

Perhaps smiling at the thought of being an assassin in another life, a profession he'd probably excel in. Because the way things stand now and with nine stages to Rome, Menchov is very dangerous indeed. Perilous, even.

"Now, at least, I'm in a good position on the general classification; I'm getting better each day and I'm now in a position to fight for [overall] victory."

Leipheimer: More than a contender; Di Luca still in the hunt

Only 20 seconds behind the Russian juggernaut, one can say Astana's Levi Leipheimer is more than just a contender for the 2009 Giro. The 35-year-old from Santa Rosa, California is now a favourite - not the favourite, but a favourite.

"Twenty seconds [from the stage win], it's hard to take," said Leipheimer, who moved up one place to third overall, 40 seconds behind Di Luca. "But," he said, "I think it'll be a close third week."

Speaking of Di Luca, the 2007 champ proved his form is far from waning. As he predicted and as he expected, the 33-year-old lost 1:54 to Menchov against the clock, though importantly made time on many of his rivals who showed signs of weakness. And with three mountain finishes in the final week, "Il Killer di Spoltore" is, for many, still the hot tip for the final maglia rosa in Roma.

Said Di Luca, "I am happy. The race is never finished until it's over. We will wait."

The guy expected to do so much in Cinque Terre, Team Columbia-High Road's Michael Rogers, fell short of the day's best marks - 1:37:13 seeing the Australian with only the 14th best time and by consequence, he lost three places on GC to sit sixth overall. Cervelo TestTeam's Carlos Sastre wasn't overwhelming, either, but moving up a rung to fifth overall still makes the Spaniard dangerous.

Never seen anything like it

Not since the 1992 Giro - 17 years ago, Spaniard Miguel Indurain dominated in a 66km time trial en route to the first of two overall victories - have we seen a time trial of this length, and late Thursday morning, the weight of expectation in the seaside town of Sestri Levante felt heavy as the combined mass of the publicity caravan.

Cyclingnews chose to follow the rider who left twenty-first and expected to do well, American David Zabriskie of Garmin-Slipstream, who left the start house at 12:25. But the goofy lad from Salt Lake City, Utah, could only manage the tenth best time when he finished in 1:45:11, some way behind Alessandro Bertolini's early best time of 1:39:50.

Another Anglophone TT specialist who bore the first name David was Millar, Zabriskie's Garmin-Slipstream buddy knocking Bertolini off his perch - though his time at the top was equally temporary, with Team Columbia-High Road's Marco Pinotti and Edvald Boasson Hagen soon displacing the Scot, the latter in 1:37:56.

With Astana's Lance Armstrong now out on the road, ISD's Giovanni Visconti took the top spot, lasting all of 15 minutes before the best 30 riders on the classifica generale took their turn to supercede the Italian, beginning with Bradley Wiggins (Garmin-Slipstream), then Janez Brajkovic (Astana), then Stefano Garzelli (Acqua & Sapone), a virtual stage winner after clocking 1.35.32.

When Armstrong came in with 1:36:55 - 1:23 off Garzelli - the seven-time Tour winner's time was rather appropriately good enough for seventh at that point.

Still, no-one could best Garzelli until Leipheimer, when the fourth-last rider to leave put 43 seconds into the 2000 Giro champ.

And then there were three: Rogers, Menchov and the maglia rosa of Di Luca.

Speedplay's lollipop pedals offer dual-sided entry and a selection of colours, axle materials and adjustment options. The Light Actions give 15° of non-adjustable, non-centering float and the unique pedal body and cleat require very little force to operate (once you get used to the stomp motion, rather than toe first).

The cleats take a little extra time to set up - there's a plethora of shims and screws.

They're also very clunky to walk on, but provide a solid platform for pedalling. While the Light Actions are pitched as 'hybrid' pedals, most leisure riders would be far better off with a walkable pedal/shoe combo. That said, they offer a unique free-float feeling unlike any other. The low-stress float is great for problematic knees, but we found that it's not ideal for heavy sprinting because you can drift in the Light Actions too much. They're a good combination of strength and low weight and have a grease port for maintenance.