OK, I’m going to get this out of the way right at the top because: The CAAD needs mudguard mounts. It’s not aero, and at this price and the tier below it’s a serious contender for ‘first proper road bike’ for a great many customers, and a surefire contender for a spot in our guide to the best aluminium road bikes. I know it doesn’t rain in California, but it sure as hell does in Connecticut where Cannondale’s head office is, and it sure as hell does in the UK, too, even if the launch media was very Los Angeles. Despite this large gripe, I do actually quite like the latest CAAD.

I think it is going through a bit of an identity crisis of late. The old generation aped the dropped chainstays of the SuperSix Evo, but had mudguard mounts to make it a year-round performance bike. Now the stays are back up where they arguably should be for a metal bike, but with the lowest tier of the CAAD family now the cheapest road bike in the brand’s range, it seems caught somewhere in the middle of trying to be a crit bike of yesteryear while also offering new roadies an approachable package.

Despite this slightly confused outlook, I do like the platform. Rubino tyres on a bike at this price is a let-down, but it has the potential to be a really wicked road bike for those that don’t want carbon for whatever reason.

Design and aesthetics

As someone who lusts after the Liquigas-Cannondale era SuperSixes, I must say I love the decision to pop the seat stays back up where they should be. That, along with the basically horizontal top tube, makes the aesthetic package very classique and pleasing to behold.

Much like the latest SuperSix I am slightly underwhelmed by the paint options, especially given the crazy custom versions that have been kicking about on socials. The frameset-only option is delightful, as is the raw version, though these are so rare that I suspect they’re essentially a showpiece, like the 100-piece Team Dream Team limited edition. Black, white, or this perfectly handsome but dull cherry option are your choices, and if you want electronic gears, then it’s just this red.

Gone are the mudguard mounts (someone will die on this hill, I assure you, and it ain't going to be me), but there is a round seatpost and clearance now for 32mm tyres with a bit of wiggle room. This mid-tier model comes with the new SRAM Rival, and ‘robust endurance road wheels’ from DT Swiss of an alloy variety, paired with budget Vittoria Rubino Pro tyres. As I’ll get into when I discuss the handling, these are a little bit of a letdown and again point to the slight confusion of the machine.

The cockpit is a separate system, with alloy bars here. Given Cannondale is only offering integrated cockpits on its top-flight SuperSix models, it’s not a great surprise (and no bad thing) to have a two-piece on offer here. At the bottom bracket there is mercifully a standard BSA threaded shell, and there's UDH compatibility at the back, so no mad Cannondale standards of yesteryear.

The CAAD14 is geometrically very similar to the latest SuperSix Evo, a bike which I really, really liked from a handling perspective. In the same size, the CAAD is 15mm higher, which sounds like a lot, but the latest SuperSix cut 10mm from the head tube to make it lower. Same head tube angle at 73º, but a higher bottom bracket for the CAAD by 3mm, and 5mm longer in the chain stays, but all in all the lineage from SuperSix to CAAD is more or less a straight line.

Specs sheet aside, what I do like about the CAAD is the fact you can still mess about with it. Yes, semi-internal cable routing is a pain, but as a serial setup messer-abouterer I love the fact that, hypothetically with a bit of playing around with hoses and spacers perhaps, I could slap a Thomson seatpost and stem combo and some vintage classic drop bars off eBay and have something that looks pretty old school with modern sensibilities, or I could run it 1x with 35mm tyres and an extremely narrow cockpit to keep up with the trendy folks. It’s one of the main reasons I bought a Bowman Palace back in the day, and now run it with a flat bar like a moron.

Taking the mudguard mounts away, though, is dumb. It has endurance wheels; it’s alloy so will appeal to new cyclists and those looking for a winter bike that doesn’t handle like a water buffalo, and if we’re all honest with ourselves, despite the marketing, it ain’t a crit bike either. If you’re serious about racing, why would you get an alloy frameset that isn’t aero when you can get a Quick Pro frameset (as an example) for less money AND have aero gains AND have weight savings?

I hate to burst some of your bubbles, but if you crash and snap an alloy frame, it’s actually going to be harder to repair than a carbon one. It might take little knocks more easily, but the big stuff is going to write it off whether it’s made of plastic or tin.

Performance

The CAAD14 is, first and foremost, a laugh. There’s definitely something psychological at play, but not being aboard a bike that is carbon or aero, or both in this case, allows the mind to drift into a more playful space, and this is compounded well by the fact that the handling characteristics are pretty much as they are for the SuperSix, which is beautiful to ride. A little more stable with that longer back end, but basically the same.

Compared to my Bowman, admittedly a bike that is many years old now, the CAAD14 is worlds apart. It’s stiff enough in the frame, but like so many bikes it really pays to go up a little in terms of tyre sizes. Even up to a 30c takes some of the sting out of the tail that comes with not having a great deal of seatpost stickup. I have a size down here compared to my usual 56, and it is a little small (ideally I’d have this but with a longer stem, but we are where we are) and even here the seatpost doesn’t extend that far out. It certainly adds to the old school charm in a visual sense, but even a round carbon seatpost can’t do everything.

While I’m on the wheels and tyres, the stock wheels are OK, but the tyres are certainly a weak point for a bike where handling is such a key part of the appeal. Even if you don’t swap the wheels, you’ll have a far better time if you swap the Rubinos out for something moderately premium. Continental GP5000s and Vittoria Corsa Pros are good, but cost a bomb, and realistically, if you’re not dropping top dolla on a race bike then take my word for it and sort yourself out with a set of Hutchinson Blackbirds or Blackbird Race tyres and thank me later; ⅔ the price (or half, when on sale) and they feel really, really good. Same goes for Michelin Power Cups, though they don’t come in the same size range.

The stock wheels make for little to write home about, and I can’t help but feel I’d be writing “these would be a fantastic winter wheelset, and you can save some posh hoops for summer”, but THE RUDDY MUDGUARD MOUNTS ARE GONE.

I don’t lament the separate bar and stem combo, even if to all intents and purposes it’s just as inconvenient as a one-piece given the internal routing. I like the bars, and while they do flex more than I’d perhaps like when cranking out a sprint effort, they’re stiffer than the Seka Spear integrated cockpit. The ergonomics are sound, and being alloy I’m less stressed about leaning the thing up cack-handedly against a wall and it toppling over.

When the road points upwards I did wish I was on the SuperSix, even when I slapped a set of Zipp 202 NSW climbing wheels on. It’s just a little more stolid, but it gets over lumps perfectly well, even ticking off a few PRs on both sustained efforts and uphill sprints. The stock setup with pedals, cages, and computer mount tips the scales at 9.17kg (I did swap the saddle, though), and this isn't exactly feathery; it combines with the additional drag of the tyres, so it does feel sluggish at times, but it is an alloy bike with alloy wheels.

While one can’t necessarily feel the difference in a handful of watts here and there between the best aero road bikes, you absolutely can feel the difference between this and a frame designed to beat the wind. It’s not like having an anchor on or anything so dramatic, but you do have to work harder on the flat. Again, this is aided with better tyres, and you can do a lot with positioning, helmet, and clothing, but fundamentally this is a slower bike than a similarly priced aero frameset, whatever you put on it.

Downhill, though, it’s ripping good. The SRAM brakes are excellent and add a layer of confidence on top of the balance the geometry brings to the table. The same confident turn-in as the SuperSix is at play here, and a front end that is stiff enough to track where you want it to without being so stiff you skitter hither and thither. If this is to be your first ‘proper’ road bike, then there are far worse places to learn to descend than aboard one of these. It doesn’t descend quite as well as the SuperSix, but for a bike that costs substantially less it’s impressive how good an impression it can do if its premium sibling. It’s like the difference between Sprite from the fridge and room temperature Sprite. Same thing really, underneath, but one has a little more ahhhh.

It’s fun, but is that enough? The problem with the CAAD14 is that it’s sort of trying to be all things to all people and hamstringing itself in the process. It’s got the handling of an excellent fast road bike, but without the componentry, and realistically in this day and age if you’re buying a non-aero alloy frameset to race on seriously you probably need your head examining. On the flip side, it occupies the entry-level road bike space for the brand, but without shouldering any of the responsibility to be utilitarian that comes with that market position.

People buying their first road bike will also be looking for something to commute on and use all year round, and without mudguards it can do neither thing well. The Fairlight Strael manages to handle beautifully and be utilitarian enough to be a commuter, winter bike, and light touring masterclass, and if it can be done in steel then it can be done in aluminium, too.

I will also say that I never really got on with the groupset beyond the brakes. The gears were perpetually skipping and mis-shifting no matter what I did to trim and re-trim the rear derailleur. It was frustrating, and again, if this was my first dealings with electronic gears I’d be a bit non-plussed.

Value

£3,700 is a fair wedge but it’s substantially cheaper than the top-flight bikes I so often review nowadays. What else can you get for that money? An Ultegra-equipped Fairlight Strael… A bike I gave a perfect score to. I know any Nero Show followers will be wailing and gnashing their teeth, but both bikes are not aero, made of metal, and handle excellently. One is just a lot more adaptable and a lot more configurable.

It's also several hundred more than the Winspace M6 aero race bike my colleague Tom just reviewed. That has carbon wheels, a one-piece integrated handlebar, etc and is sure to be a much quicker machine.

From more mainstream competition, you could get an Ultegra-spec Canyon Ultimate, with carbon wheels and race tyres for the same cash. Maybe it ain’t as cool, but it’s more bike for your money. A SRAM Force version of the Ultimate with carbon wheels and race tyres will save you 350 quid over the CAAD, which you put towards a power meter, and you can get it in red not white, so people don’t accuse you of being an influencer on the internet.

What I’m trying to say is the CAAD isn’t particularly good value. It isn’t a good enough race bike to be raced as-is without investing in better tyres, for starters, let alone the wheels, and it isn’t utilitarian enough to be a year-round training machine.

Verdict

I liked riding the CAAD, but I am also here to provide consumer advice. I like riding bikes that are cool (have I mentioned my alloy flat bar idiot wagon?) but ‘fun and cool’ only really gets you to the marketing campaign. You can stick cycling’s most effervescent influencer on one in front of a Porsche, but that’s sort of all there is underneath. It is fun, and it is cool, but if that’s all it is, then why not make it cooler? Why not make it more fun? Give it the paint it deserves, and the tyres it needs. Give people who are coming to road cycling for the first time something to really show off at the cafe, and for pity's sake, give them some mudguard mounts.

Winspace has been making bikes since 2008, and despite being around for some time, only in the last several years has the brand’s visibility risen in the western market, as more and more Chinese brands have gained a foothold, popularity and visibility.

I’ve been test riding the Winspace M6 since April. It's one of the brand's latest aero road bikes and sits alongside the T1550 and T1600 models.

The M6 is available in a few configurations; I've tested the 105 Di2 version, though it's also available with 105 mechanical and Ultegra Di2 as well. It's generated interest wherever I've taken it, far more than some of the best road bikes I’ve ridden from more established brands.

As pictured, the bike I have been riding comes in at $3,900, making it a more attractive option than bikes from bike brands with similar specs that may cost a lot more or as an affordable yet capable platform to upgrade further down the line.

I’ve done all my road riding and training on it, and have used it for three road races. Here’s how I got in.

Design and aesthetics

Winspace owns its own factory in China, which I believe allows for some of its competitive pricing. Spec-wise, the bike comes with a strong overall package that doesn’t really have any gaping weaknesses.

You can do quite a lot of customising when ordering on the Winspace website, and the brand uses a direct-to-consumer model supported by dealers in different regions. You can choose from one of nine colour options, and custom paint services are offered in at least the UK, with prices starting from £450.

Two integrated handlebars are available: the Hyper bar, which is what came with my bike; I chose a 36cm/105mm combo and loved it, or you can choose the Hyper 2 for $100 more, which to my mind looks a bit like the bar shape on the Colnago Y1Rs.

The seatpost is an aero Winspace model, which has 15mm of layback in size M and upward, and is inline for the XS and S sizes, topped off with a Selle Italia Novus Boost Evo X-Cross Superflow, an XC MTB-specific saddle, but one which I have also found very comfortable, visually it also fits in well with the bike, and doesn't look out of place.

Handlebar width and stem length can be specified, as can crank length, and (to an extent) chainring size. It's all very customisable, and you should be able to get close to the exact build combo you want. One thing to note is shipping times; you can currently expect a 30-45 day wait for your order to arrive.

My bike came with the stock Unaas Hard D50 wheels with 28mm Continental Grand Prix tyres and tubes, but you can spend up to $1000 more by upgrading things on the wheel front.

The groupset is the always solid Shimano 105 Di2, and it was solid as a rock. The bike comes with a 170mm 34-50T chainset, and I did swap in a 36-52T for a road race; for general riding it’s absolutely fine, but if you're racing and need some more speed in flat-out fast finishes or for a better chainline you may want to go bigger. There's also no included power meter, a positive or negative depending on your opinion; PM crank arms for Shimano chainsets are relatively inexpensive though.

One aftermarket part that caught my eye immediately as I wax each new test bike's chain was the chain itself. Winspace spec'd a SUMC flat top model - a Chinese brand that I wasn’t familiar with. I'm a stickler for running Shimano chains with Shimano groupsets, but I must say performance has been good from it. I can’t say shifting performance was any different to a Shimano unit or poor in any way, and I was paying very close attention.

So, for the frame itself, the M6 is constructed from Toray T700/T800 and M40/60 carbon fibres. Various brands use Toray, so material-wise, the quality is there.

The bottom bracket standard is T47, and my bike came fitted with a Token screw-together unit; the cranks span very well straight out of the box, but more on this further in.

The frame is UDH-friendly and has 32mm tyre clearances; I've run it with 32mm Specialized Cotton TLR tyres comfortably at times.

Winspace quotes 900 grams for an unpainted size M, and my bike came in at 7.9kg out of the box.

The M6 is billed as an aero bike, and the frame is angular and many familiar aero shapes are there from the deep head tube, which tapers at the front (pictured below) to the seatstay junction area; perhaps the most eye-catching are the 68mm deep fork legs which flick backwards at the bottom.

Aero-wise, the brand says the bike has been to the Fuji wind tunnel and this was preceded by CFD modelling. Compared to the brand's C5 bike, Winspace claims an 8.9 watt drag reduction at 48km/h, though that bike has an almost identical frame from what I can see. I don't have any comparisons for the T1550 and T1600 models, though, which would be desirable.

What we don't have currently is any of our own wind tunnel data for the M6, but I would like to see how it fares against a range of current models.

Performance

I've ridden the M6 for over 1000 miles, including using it in three road races, even taking a 5th place in the last one, to really test it in anger and have been highly impressed.

As is often the case with the bikes I know are really going to fit me well, my laps around the block to scrub the brakes in told me a lot straight away, and I was able to find a great position on the M6 pretty much immediately.

Position and fit will make or break things, regardless of the bike you are riding, so let's look at the geometry first. I'm 176cm and have been riding a size M bike, which has the following key geometry figures (full table below):

Stack: 535mm
Reach: 383mm
Wheelbase: 980
Trail: 63.1mm
BB drop: 72mm
Seat tube angle: 74 degrees
Head tube angle: 72.2 degrees

The geometry results in a pretty user-friendly bike in my opinion; that 383mm reach number is the same or within a millimetre or two of bikes like the Cervelo Soloist, Specialised Aethos, Ridley Grifn RS and Ribble Ultra Race, all bikes I have ridden and been very comfortable on. In short, it isn't super aggressive, and a range of riders should be able to get comfortable, and if you do need a longer stem, it's only going to make the bike look mean.

I was very comfortable, but could still achieve a low, aero position on the hoods. Stack-wise, the bike is a touch more aggressive; I rode it with 20mm of spacers.

In use, there is little for me to fault when it comes to the M6; it has performed excellently across the board.

I've loved the handling; it's sharp, exciting and precise. I've felt completely confident on the bike, and descending and cornering under pressure in races has provided another solid testing ground.

The Hyper bar has helped in this department; I really like what it brings to the table. It feels very stiff, though I am a lighter rider, and the shape and ergonomics really help you put the bike where you want it. Also, in its 36cm size it falls within the UCI handlebar width rules, as long as your shifters aren't at a crazy angle, so racers will be ok on that front.

I've ridden the bike with three different wheelsets and a range of tyres, from 28s, 29s and 32s; the bike has felt comfortable with all of them. It's a racy bike, engaging and snappy, but it hasn't beaten me up, and 30 or 32mm tyres will do a lot there. One thing I did notice was that acceleration was improved at low speed with a lighter wheelset, specifically some Roval Rapide CLX III's I'm testing.

The Stock Unaas wheelset weighs in at a claimed 1609 grams, with a 21mm internal width, Pillar steel spokes, cartridge bearing hubs and a three-pawl freehub. The hubs feel buttery smooth, and combined with the 28mm Conti Grand Prix tyres and tubes, the wheels feel nippy enough and smooth. There's nothing wrong with them, and they have felt livelier than other budget wheels I have used.

I've tried the bike with premium wheelsets from Roval and DT Swiss, and an upgrade in wheels and tyres only unlocks more performance. At speed on flat and rolling terrain it feels really quick.

I've done all sorts of efforts and training sessions on the bike, and sprinted flat out on it; it feels very good when accelerating and riding out of the saddle, and the ride quality is there.

Does it feel quite as stiff and direct as something like a Canyon Aeroad CFR when you are really stamping on the pedals? Not quite, but it's not a million miles off and for a bike at this price point, it's meant as a compliment.

I could do everything on this bike; its 7.9kg weight isn't too bad. Of course, we all want a lighter bike, but for a 105-spec aero machine, it's not bad in my opinion; it would be easy enough to start dropping some weight, and the M6 itself certainly doesn't feel sluggish.

I've had no mechanical issues with the bike of any kind, and the quality and paint finishing all seem very good.

Maintenance and servicing

A single issue has raised its head so far, and that relates to the bottom bracket. When I first removed the chain to wax it, I was highly impressed with the way the cranks span; it was probably the best spin test I've seen in a test bike.

Fast forward a few months, and the cranks still spin very well, but the bearings are sounding a bit blown out and rumbly.

I'm light and easy on equipment; I'm also light on the bike washing. I removed the cranks for an inspection, and the right BB bearing feels rougher than the left one. Not terrible, but there's some roughness there which I wouldn't expect after less than six months of use.

A bearing upgrade may help; I can't vouch for the quality of the stock 'Takino' branded bearings, but if that failed, perhaps a deeper look at things would be needed.

Elsewhere, it's a similar story for a bike like this: minimise front-end blasting to protect your headset bearings; though you can access them for regreasing, the bottom bracket is threaded, you just need the correct Token bb tool, and keep everything as clean and as well greased as you can. I can't say there are any specific points to mention.

Value

As mentioned $3,900 or £3,460 is our price tag here for the M6 with Hyper bar and 105 Di2.

The bike comes pretty much assembled, and you get the integrated out-front computer mount included. The bike also comes with a neat foam-lined cardboard box with spares, spacers, a light mount for the combo computer mount, and a Shimano Di2 charger cable.

How does it measure up to the competition from bigger name brands? Let's look at Canyon, with it's often hard to beat direct to consumer pricing.

A base-spec Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 7 starts at $4,999 or £4,499; that bike also has 105 Di2 with a power meter, and 65 mm DT Swiss ARC 1600 carbon wheels with Continental Grand Prix 5000 S TR tyres. It's about $1000 more, with a bigger spec, but you can't specify stem length, and you will need to purchase the computer mount separately. A Specialized Tarmac SL8 Comp with 105 Di2 and alloy wheels comes in at $4,699 or £3,599; that's without a PM and with a two-piece bar.

I've discussed the excellent performance, but putting that aside, I think a key part of the Winspace value proposition is the range of customisation options on offer. You can spec a heck of a lot straight off the bat, and I see notes on the UK website, for example, on communicating cassette and power meter preferences. For less than a lot of bikes, you can choose a lot of the spec to suit from the off, which could save a lot of money and time further down the line.

Verdict

Winspace has put together an excellent all-round road bike in the M6. It's a bike that performs very well everywhere. The handling is excellent, and is further boosted by the very good Hyper bar. The ride quality is good, exciting and engaging, and the bike is comfortable to ride; this will only be boosted by larger, tubeless tyres if you want to go that way with it.

I'd like it to feel even more direct when really putting the power down out of the saddle on steep climbs, but that's a finer point; it really has impressed me across the board.

It sits at a competitive price point, and you can customise an awful lot at point of sale; I think it also provides a good base to upgrade from in the future, or as a competitive frameset to build up into a race bike, etc.

Check the geo, and if it's right for you, I promise you will not be disappointed in the M6.

The Quoc M Pro Lace shoe launched in March this year, and along with the more affordable Escape Road models, brings a lace-up option to the already popular Quoc road shoe range.

The M Pro Lace shares a lot of the same design features as the existing M3 Pro and M3 Air shoes that I have tested and reviewed over the last couple of years.

Lace-up road shoes are, if not fully in vogue, certainly a lot more popular of late amongst the best cycling shoes. There’s the aero angle, and they are regularly cited as being more aerodynamic than a boa or ratchet-equipped shoe, and the sports big names such as Tadej Pogačar, Jonas Vingegaard, Remco Evenepoel and Isaac del Toro are all using lace-up shoes from a range of manufacturers right now.

Quoc says the shoes are ‘born from the pro peloton’s growing preference for lace precision’ and I have found the lacing system to offer more stability and better foot retention than the dials used on other Quoc models.

The shoes feature the existing Quoc carbon fibre sole, with a three-bolt drilling pattern, and a similar type of upper; the laces and new ankle opening design to facilitate them are the talking point here.

The shoes are also a little less cash than other top-level Quoc options; laces, it seems, are cheaper than dials, and the shoes carry an RRP of £290 / $400 / € 360

I've used them exclusively since the start of the year for all of my riding, training and three road races plus track meets; I’ve even crashed in them (not by choice). Here’s what you can expect if you are considering buying a pair.

Design and aesthetics

Quoc appears to have a formula for its road shoes, and the M Pro Lace is very much in keeping with that blueprint, design and aesthetics-wise.

The shoes use the same carbon fibre sole as the M3 Pro and M3 Air; it is a stiff unit that has always been plenty stiff enough for me for any performance-focused road riding. It is also a three-bolt-only setup, so you will need a four-bolt adaptor for Wahoo Speedplay cleats.

The uppers are also very similar in feel and looks to the aforementioned models. It’s a slightly textured mesh TPU surface with perforations all along the front two-thirds of the shoe and two smooth panels, a ‘laminated toe border’ in the brand's words at the front and rear, which makes cleaning them easier.

The major change has come with the addition of the laces, and with them a different tongue and ankle opening area which, to my mind, works better than the previous offerings.

I asked the brand about aero considerations, and it confirmed that aerodynamics hadn't been a specific consideration; the addition of laces was more about 'fit, durability and comfort'.

12 eyelets route the laces up to the split tongue, which splays across the front of your ankle comfortably; at least it has for me. There’s also an elasticated band about halfway down the tongue to tuck the laces under; they have never moved in use for me, and this has worked very well.

The shoes come in one colour, and that’s white, which is always music to my ears. If white isn’t for you, you will have to look elsewhere, I’m afraid.

The shoes themselves look super clean and stylish, and they generated plenty of praise on Instagram and online at launch. Styling is simple, with a ‘Quoc’ wordmark on the outside front of each shoe and a ‘Q’ on the toe box.

Included with each pair is a Quoc tote bag for storage, and three sets of interchangeable polystyrene arch supports, the same as its other models; these stick on, and whilst they aren’t in the same league as G8 or Solestar when it comes to insoles, it’s useful that riders can at least tweak their arch support to suit.

Performance

It’s worth saying straight away that if white shoes are your thing, you will not be let down with these. I think it’s fair to say they are some of the slickest-looking road shoes you can choose right now; clean, minimalist and stylish, at least to my mind.

I’ve ridden them for several months straight and have had a very good experience again. The cleat bolt holes are in a decent spot, not too far forward, and I didn't feel I had any issues in that department, although again, it's a personal one.

I actually sized up with this model to an EU 44, and have been happier for it. It’s a personal one; the shoes run true to size, I would say, but the added size has given my toes a bit more room and left me with a better feel overall - food for thought as these aren’t the widest or most voluminous shoes on the market. For wider shoes, consult our best wide cycling shoes guide.

The shoes aren't as comfortable as the Q36.5 Unique Pro shoes, a personal benchmark for me, but those sit at least a price bracket above.

Stiffness isn’t a concern for me; I’ve sprinted at the end of road races, on the track and done 45-second max uphill intervals and have never once wanted a stiffer shoe. All good on that front.

What is a big improvement for me is the improved foot retention and stability that the laces bring to the table. One of my few gripes with the M3 Pro shoes was the slightly subpar performance from the closure dials, which didn’t do the best job at tightening the shoe down and doing it evenly.

The laces allow you to tighten things down more evenly, across the whole foot, and importantly they haven’t developed slack or worked loose, something I feared.

The eyelets extend around the ankle, which helps lock things in, and the shape of both the laces and eyelet holes, and the not huge amount of stretch in the laces means they stay put. It’s an effective combination all round.

I’ve called Quoc shoes slipper-like in the past due to the open, almost cutaway ankle area; the laces mean this area has changed, and the shoes offer improved ankle support and a better hold when everything is closed down and the laces are tied.

Performance in the heat has been good; I’ve experienced slightly sore feet at the end of a long, hot road race, but this is down to overall fit more than a shoe's ventilation, I think.

The shoes scrub up nicely; it isn’t an effortless wipe-clean job, and you might need to do some light scrubbing and possibly wash the laces or replace them if they really get dirty, but they clean up nicely all told.

Value

In the context of the Quoc range, these shoes are a little cheaper than the M3 Pro and Air models, which have dials, and for me, having used all three pairs, they would be my choice.

A new product being cheaper is refreshing these days, so that’s a positive.

Overall, the shoes are still a lot of money, but it’s fair to say they are in line with or even cheaper than many premium road shoes these days, and they look fantastic, which is always going to draw you into buying something.

A key competitor is probably the Specialized S-Works Torch lace, which retails for around the same money. The Torch may have a slightly stiffer sole, but shoes are a personal choice.

Verdict

The M Pro Lace is my favourite addition to the Quoc range so far. They still look fantastic, but the laces improve the shoes' retention, foot hold and overall performance. I think more riders will be able to get a fit that works for them in them.

They are also cheaper than the dial equipped options, and if being able to tighten your shoes down well is of importance to you, I'd recommend you go for these and save a few dollars.

I think it’s safe to say the Cannondale SuperSix Evo has a passionate, dedicated following. Like the Specialized Tarmac, and maybe the Pinarello Dogma, it has a healthy lineage and hoards of passionate fans keen to espouse how it is the best road bike on the planet.

The new version is very similar to the outgoing model, which I must say was excellent. I had the pleasure of cutting about on a mid-spec model in the French Alps for a good while off the back of some work trips, in addition to a lovely week in Cornwall during a heatwave blasting along the always shockingly hilly coast roads. It’s good. In fact, it’s very good, but I don’t necessarily think it’s sufficiently different from the old one to justify itself from a consumer standpoint, in much the same way as the latest Giant Propel.

Design and Aesthetics

I know the designers will have been beavering away at improving the platform for months, but when I picked the bike up I did genuinely have to check it wasn’t the previous model. Visually it’s a very similar silhouette, with the key giveaway being the seatpost, which loses the cutout near the top. The fork crown is slimmer, and the head tube is 10mm lower (thanks to input from Ben Healey, apparently) which all amounts to a bike that is, according to Cannondale, basically just as aero as the old one, though anywhere from 35-72g lighter depending on tier, which is the same as one or two double espressos, not including the cup and saucer.

The geometry is basically the same save for the lower headtube, which affects the stack and slightly the reach too, which is good because the handling was always the big selling point of any racy Cannondale, and top-tier models get a beautiful carbon one-piece cockpit, though mid- and lower-tier options have to make do with a separate system. In my SRAM Force model, retailing for a cool $7,000, I would like to see a one-piece. There isn’t anything physically wrong with the Vision TriMax bar and conceal stem combo, and it is at least relatively narrow, but it looks like a bit of a cop out, especially with the holes at the base of the wings for external cables that will never be used. It’s like Cannondale either got a mad deal on a shedload of them, or already had a load kicking about and needed to fit them to something to shift them.

While we’re talking aesthetics, I am also not overly enamoured with the paint options. It’s matters not a jot to performance, but considering Cannondale is the brand that brought us the lefty fork, a bike with a rollerblade for a front wheel, and sponsors a pro team with vibes being as much of a performance metric as wins, the colour options all look like they were chosen by a boardroom full of Agent Smiths from The Matrix; it’s all a little corporate and plain. Give me anything but variations on grey, please!

Happily, the days of slightly bonkers Cannondale standards are behind us; the wheels are normally dished, and the bottom bracket isn’t a brand new standard that’ll die out in 6-8 months. The only slightly zany thing is the aero bottles and cages, which I have to admit I didn’t get on with; It was like being 17 again. When you’re on a low-pressure training ride it’s fine, but when the chips are down, and you’re pushing on, it takes a level of thought to get them back into the cage that a round bottle and normal cage simply doesn’t require.

Happily, our own wind tunnel tests show a noticeable improvement on the old model in aero terms, with a 6.9 watt benefit versus the old SuperSix, but this still sits it very much mid-table. It isn’t an aero bike, whatever the bottles say, and the low weight does mean it has designs on the high mountains. Top-spec models can be 6.4kg out of the box, while this model tips the balance at 7.7kg, which is certainly competitive at this price point.

Performance

Unlike the Seka Spear, which has exceptional aerodynamics and a middling ride, the new SuperSix has middling aerodynamics and an exceptional ride. The old one handled very well, and the new one handles… well, the same really. It’s certainly up there in the mix with the best of the best in terms of how it rides, with a poise and balance that only really comes unstuck and gets a little squirrelly above 75km/h when hard on the brakes approaching an alpine hairpin a little too quickly. The rest of the time it’s a delight, turning in on demand and, when faced with surprise oncoming lorries messing up my apex-kissing, able to dive out of a corner as fast as it jumps into it.

There’s nothing terribly wrong with the DT Swiss ERC wheels and Schwalbe One tyres in this spec, but they do feel a little wooden, especially the tyres, when mounted to a platform that sings in the bends as well as this. To see what could reasonably be achieved with some light modding, I slapped a pair of the new Zipp 202 NSW wheels and some 30mm Continental GP5000 S TR tyres and things were markedly better, though probably slightly less aerodynamic.

I have no qualms with the groupset, and other than it feeling like a cheap spec option, the cockpit was plenty stiff enough to hold up to sprints and hard cornering, as was the frame. It’s no Ridley Noah, but it has that taught bowstring I look for in all the best all-rounders that produces a pleasing efficiency when the road points uphill. Again, this was aided by swapping to the Zipp wheels, but realistically I think anything slightly more premium would be an improvement.

One thing that slightly confuses me is the decision to only change the groupset when going from Rival to Force-tier builds. Same wheels, same tyres, same afterthought cockpit. These components feel perfectly good on a Rival-level build, but they feel a little lacklustre on this mid-spec model, and I’d like to see more to bridge the gap to the premium builds. You can get a build with Reserve wheels for more money, which is good to see, however.

I found the position absolutely fine, but I test racy bikes for a living, and so the lower front end proved no impediment. I can’t help but feel, however, that catering to a single Ben Healey may have an alienating effect on a large proportion of the customer base who maybe don’t have the same supple lumbar spines as pro athletes.

In reality, aside from the cockpit, I can’t really fault it in terms of performance. It is brilliant, and while I lament the slightly corporate vibe of the thing, that has no impact on how it goes, turns, and stops, all of which are done in relative comfort. When we tested it in the wind tunnel, the seatpost looked alarmingly flexible laterally, but I am happy to report this wasn't borne out on the road. Comfy, but never floppy anywhere, all without being over-stiff; a bike I’d happily spend all day on were it not for the demands of modern life.

Value

Compared to a Force-equipped Tarmac, there’s a gulf of £250 in favour of the SuperSix at RRP. The Specialized Tarmac SL8, however, comes with a better cockpit and better wheels, so it’s a far better deal in my view. Speccing the better Reserve wheelset jumps things up £2k, but at least then you get the integrated cockpit, and then it’s a good wedge more than the Tarmac.

To further tip the scales against the SuperSix, an Ultegra spec Canyon Aeroad is only £104 dearer than an Ultegra SuperSix, but comes with an integrated cockpit, higher calibre DT Swiss ARC wheels, and top spec Continental tyres.

It’s a hard sell really, no matter how well it handles. This is further compounded by the fact you can still pick up 2025 model SuperSixes, which will ride just as well and only suffer a minor aero and weight penalty, for significantly less cash.

Verdict

In terms of pure performance, the latest Cannondale SuperSix Evo is a brilliant bike to ride. It handles superbly, climbs well, and while the aero package isn’t sensational, it’s an improvement over the old one. When viewed in isolation it’s great, but as soon as you start adding in the context of other options the value proposition isn’t as strong as other options, even from brands that traditionally command a premium.

If you have a SuperSix from a few years ago, I wouldn’t stress about upgrading. It’s certainly in the mix if you’re looking for a brilliant all-rounder, but if you were my mate down the pub I’d suggest you look for a 2025 model on sale before spending big on a 2026 model.

The Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed is the fastest tyre offering from the Italian tyre stalwart. Used by the Visma-Lease a Bike teams for the fastest road stages and time trials, we’ve put it to the test as part of the Cycling News LABS rolling resistance testing where it came out the fastest option on test. Beating out the fabled Continental GP5000 S TR and TT along with other WorldTour race tyre competition.

However, part of why it rolls so fast is the thin casing, tread, and complete lack of puncture protection belt, meaning it is a far more fragile tyre than many other road going options. That does appear to be the only area of compromise though. Using the same Graphene and Silica tread combination as the rest of the Corsa Pro range, it is exceptionally grippy around corners, with good wet weather grip as well. Being so minimal in construction does also make it impressively lightweight, while the cotton casing leads to an exceptionally supple and smooth ride.

But are the compromises in longevity and resilience, alongside the relatively high price, worth the lowest rolling resistance we’ve seen in our testing? And is this the best road race tyre you can buy at the moment?

Design and specifications

As with all of Vittoria’s high performance road tyres for the last decade or so, the Corsa Pro Speed is constructed using the wonder material graphene. Vittoria has long claimed graphene use in the tyres improves longevity, rolling resistance, and cornering traction. Bold claims, and hard to qualify, given that many other brands have, in our testing both in the lab and the field, achieved similar or better rolling resistance and grip without graphene.

In this iteration of the tyres this has been combined with silica in what the brand calls its Race Formulation; faster than the combination used in the standard Corsa Pro tyres. The idea here is that this specific compound combination results in the optimal balance of grip, rolling resistance, wear, and weight. This ‘Speed’ version loses the central tread lines for a slick centre strip, with the tread lines only present on the outer of the tread.

The tread itself is also thinner than that found on the Vittoria Corsa Pro. This is to reduce rolling resistance to the lowest levels possible, but this does however come at the cost of durability, with Vittoria rating it ‘low’ in this regard. Designated a Time Trial tyre or smooth road surface Road Race tyre, longevity is not the focus, speed is.

That transfers to the casing, as a puncture protection belt has been excluded in favour of lower weight and rolling resistance. At least being tubeless, the hope is that any small cuts and gashes will get sealed. But running tubes does mean a higher risk of flats.

The casing itself remains the 320 TPI (threads per inch) cotton casing that the Corsa line has been famous for since its inception. Just two layers of it again reduce weight and rolling resistance, but this is all that lies between the inner and any puncturing objects. This cotton casing also means tan sidewalls are the only option available on these tyres.

Size wise, the 24 and 26mm options are good for those with more old-school setups. Indeed, my old rim brake bike won't accept larger than 25mm so I’m glad to see these options still kicking around. Sizes upwards of that are hookless compatible, while this WR (Wide Rim) version is designed for 25mm internal width wheels and comes in 29mm only. It aims to produce a more uniform round shape on rims as they have gotten progressively wider. Claimed weight is 255g, while the scales of truth found that to be very close at 257g.

Performance

There is one word that sums these tyres up; Fast. In our rolling resistance testing at the Silverstone Sports Engineering Hub, the Vittoria Corsa Pro Speeds were the fastest tyre at all speeds, the only one that could beat the mighty Continental GP5000 TT. At 9 and 11m/s the Speeds were 1.3-1.4w faster.

Compared to the Corsa Pro though, they are an impressive 5-6.3w faster per tyre. That means double figure savings realistically for a pair, and that’s ahead of another race tyre. Compared to the Corsa Pro Control all-round tyre the difference jumps to 10.7-12.6w per tyre.

I have tested a lot of tyres, from rugged winter ones to fast race day specialists. The Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed are noticeably faster than anything else I have used. Taking them out on rides, there was a gliding sensation, which in part is helped by the very supple 320 TPI cotton casing. But the sensation of speed translates to actual increases. Seeing average speeds a good 1-2kph faster than usual across most routes in various conditions is not a scientific way of gauging performance, but these tyres are certainly fast, there is no doubting that.

That speed also translates to other aspects. These tyres are grippy when cornering. Not so much as the GP5000 S TR, which are yet to be beaten in my testing, but certainly up there with the Pirelli P Zero Race TLR RS. Banking over in corners was confident, as was zipping round high-speed bends and fast changes of direction. The light weight also means they accelerate quickly for sprints. However, the grip compared to the GP5000 S TR means that on steeper inclines when really kicking the watts, the rear wheel could be a little skittish for me, but the GP5000 S TR is the only tyre so far that has avoided that in my experience, and we’re talking 10% and above on the gradients.

There are some elements of these tyres that are frustrating though. Firstly, fitting them. These 29mm WR are very easy to fit to the No.6 52/58 test wheels I was using, and I’ve experienced the same with the standard Corsa WR on a set of Scope Artech A.4 wheels with the same internal width of 25mm. They can be fitted by hand with ease without any levers. However, I think this contributes to them being an absolute pain to get the bead sealed. Valves tightened, tape all secured, and sealant topped up well, yet they lost pressure multiple times from 80 PSI.

Riding them for a few hours seemed to eventually get most of this air leakage to stop, but I still required several stops with a mini electric pump to get them back up to 80 PSI as they had dropped to about 65 every hour of the first few hours riding.

Another component of these tyres that most will likely be concerned about is the longevity and the fragility of them. These are thin tyres, which is why they roll so fast. But that comes at the cost of durability. I can already see the rear tyre starting to square off a little bit after 400km. Fortunately I have not had any punctures, but I have avoided using these in wet weather and kept to well-kept roads and avoided shrapnel as best I can. Tubeless gives a bit of security that any small punctures will seal up quickly, but for those using tubes, there is more risk of getting flats from the likes of thorns.

I will say that at just the 200km mark into testing, quite often I would get back from a ride and see the small little damp patches on the exterior of the tyre where sealant has sealed a minuscule, little nick in the tyre. With no puncture belt, debris doesn’t get stuck in the tread or in the belt, instead it penetrates easily through the entire tread and casing. They have, so far, all been small enough that there is no discernible loss in pressure. But it does highlight the fragility of these tyres.

I also must comment about a weird scenario that happened. On one ride, a sudden jolting bump became present. I stopped to check what it was and the tyre tread had bubbled for a few inches and about 1cm rise. Given I couldn’t ride on that, I managed to pierce the bulge with a bit of roadside debris, expecting to be showered in sealant. Instead, the bubble deflated and no pressure was lost. After spinning the wheel, I couldn’t even find where this had occurred. I carried on, and the tyre was fine for the remaining 50km of the ride. I have reached out to Vittoria for comment on this, as it appears that the tread bubbled between the tread and the casing, rather than any of the air within the tyre causing this. The temperature on the day was around 20˚C so nothing exceptional. I’ve had, on older Vittorias once they wear down, the tread come loose from the casing at the sides, but this was back in 2019.

Vittoria’s response was that this is a known issue on a batch of the 29mm WR Corsa Pro Speeds, but that this problem has been remedied. It sent me some non-WR 30mm tyres to test as well, and there have been no such issues of the tread coming away from the casing as before.

Even excluding that potential issue, these are certainly a tyre of compromise, and it will be very individual as to if that is worth it. I would avoid these for long multi-day events, where resilience of components is key. But for road racing and time trials, the fact is that using anything other than these is losing performance. In fact, I’m almost tempted to ride these less in my testing to save them for road races I have coming up, so much is the advantage these have over other tyres.

Value

At £81 these are not cheap, but then no top-end time trial tyres are. They all sit mostly in this £70-90 region. But the Corsa Pro Speed are not tyres that will last very long, and given how fast these are, I’d like to use them in some races. But the longevity of them means using them more in testing means I’ll likely need to buy more for racing, and that comes at a higher cost.

It will be individual as to if that cost is worth it. A fast aero helmet might cost £300 and save a similar number of watts. But that is a one-time purchase, whereas tyres are consumables that you will likely need to replace a few times throughout the year for multiple events.

You can of course limit use to events only, but the fact is these are fun tyres to ride. They roll very smooth and fast and make riding bikes more fun. Going faster for less effort is always a nice feeling. But again, we come back to the cost.

The Vittoria Corsa Pro are similar in cost but have far greater longevity and the same supple feel, but a bit less of the speed sensation. However, for most people I would argue they offer better value overall. The Continental GP5000 S TR are incredibly fast, nearly as much as the Corsa Pro Speed, but last longer for a similar cost, are grippier too, but not as supple.

I would say though, for people searching for every possible watt saving to go as fast as possible, then these tyres are not bad value. They are not the most expensive, but they are the fastest. If you want speed, there is very little reason not to go for these. If you want greater puncture protection and longevity though, look elsewhere. What I will say is that a high quality, supple, and fast tyre will do more to performance and ride feel than any other bike upgrade. These tyres make even an endurance gravel frame with road wheels fitted feel fast and racy. On a road race bike, they make it feel like an absolute rocket and put a big smile on my face.

Verdict

The Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed tyre is what I would call a dedicated race day tyre, and specifically one for better road and weather conditions. Even taking it along some more rural lanes without the presence of rain, nicks and mini-punctures were common. Add in rain and debris to the equation and the fragility of these tyres is exposed. The saving grace is that tubeless means these nicks are sealed almost instantly with negligible impact on pressure.

The flip side of this minimalist construction is that these tyres roll like nothing else. The cotton casing, thin tread, and lack of puncture belt, all result in the most supple and fast rolling tyre I’ve ever used. Our lab testing supports this. If you want the fastest road setup on the market, not using these tyres is costing you watts. That is just a fact.

But as the old saying goes, to finish first, first you must finish. As fast as these tyres are, I can’t ignore the fragile construction of them. If I was on a team with near infinite spare tyres and a service car for punctures, then sure, these are a no-brainer. But in the real world, where I don’t want to spend £81 every <1000km, these are a bit too dear for me. Will I be saving these for dry races? Definitely. Will I use them for everyday rides? No. For the balance of speed and durability, I would opt for something else. However, these are very special tyres, and they make any bike feel like an upgraded version of itself.

Factor launched its Sarana ultra gravel race bike at the start of May, and the Sarana now sits alongside the brand's Ostro gravel and Aluto machines. In the brand’s words, the bike was “built specifically for ultra-distance racing, and riders pushing the limit of modern gravel racing.”

There are some seriously challenging gravel events on the calendar now, and they only seem to be growing in popularity. Take the Traka 360 for instance; the Sarana is a bike that has been designed for riders trying to go as fast as they can for hours on end.

Factor’s range is three models strong, and there’s a fourth mystery hyper aero machine floating around that is as yet unreleased. Factor places the Sarana in the middle of the range with a ‘race endurance’ tag.

Factor released a new pair of Black Inc. Forty Six gravel wheels along with the bike, which are available to buy separately. My test machine came with them, and I’ve been using them too.

It’s worth making the point that not every cyclist is tackling 300km+ ultra races on the weekend. The amateur riders I know do all kinds of general gravel riding with the odd big race or event planned into their calendars.

Factor bikes sit in the premium end of the market, and the Sarana carries an RRP of $8,499 / £8,299 / €10,199. It's undoubtedly a pricey machine; here's how it measured up after testing it out on a wide variety of surfaces and ride durations.

Design and aesthetics

Rob Britton is a name that crops up regularly if you are researching the Sarana. The ex-road pro and now ultra-focused gravel racer had a big hand in the development of this bike, and his super long rides and feedback apparantly informed a lot of the bike's design. He has, along with other Factor athletes like Victor Bossoni, the Traka 560 and Tour Divide winner, been riding and racing on the Sarana since launch. It’s probably a stretch to say this bike was designed specifically for Britton, but my impression from Factor was that he certainly played a big part in its creation.

We’ll get into the details, but Factor has blended and balanced here; this isn’t an all-out, blood and thunder, speed-at-any-cost race bike, and probably won’t be the right bike if you are looking for one. The frame has been put together to provide a balance between speed, comfort and capability, and up front, if you choose to spec one, a suspension fork takes care of the obvious. Throw in 29x2.1 Continental Race King tyres, and you have a bike that can go fast, yet can also be hammered down rough terrain without leaving you feeling beaten up.

There are adventure-focused gravel bikes that are all about comfort, and ones that still address the need for speed. For me, the integrated Black Inc handlebar the Sarana comes with is a perfect example of this kind of bike and the kind of setup you see regularly at gravel races now.

A two-piece, more adjustable unit could have been fitted, but the handlebar provides an aero advantage and a lighter, narrower, stiffer and slightly more aggressive front end. That handlebar, coupled with the big tyres and suspension fork, perfectly sums up the blend of themes at play with the Sarana and what it’s all about.

To the frame, the Sarana is constructed from a mix of Toray, Nippon graphite and Pan-based (polyacrylonitrile) fibres and has clearance for up to 57mm tyres; there's a T47a bb standard, it's 1x only and UDH-friendly.

The front half of the bike looks pretty traditional; the headtube hints at some aero consideration and the fairly thin top tube looks elegant; the rear end of the frame gets a little funkier. Factor has gone for heavily dropped seat stays, which it says act as a leaf spring and an offset, curved seat tube, which are all designed to build compliance into the platform. The chainstays are also dropped to help with that 57mm tyre clearance figure.

The bike can be run with a suspension or rigid fork, as well as a dropper post if you really want to go for it; this is the reason for the round 30.9mm seatpost and external clamp.

There's downtube storage and a set of four mounting points on the underside of the top tube for bags/bottles. A pair of mounts on the top tube and another two under the downtube. Factor includes the downtube, frame and top tube packs with the bike, which is nice.

Factor has talked a lot about nailing the Sarana geometry. I was slightly in between sizes and went for a 52 over a 54, which would generally be my usual size. The 52 was the right call, and I'm glad I went for it, and I'd possibly advise sizing down if you end up in a similar scenario.

Let's look at some numbers; the full geo chart can be seen below, but the Sarana in a 52 has a stack and reach of 558 and 388mm.

Wheelbase for the bike is 1018mm, and the seat tube angle for the 52 and 54-sized machines is 74.5, whilst head tube angle is 71.5 degrees.

BB drop is 82, trail is 65 and chainstay length is set at 425mm for every size.

Two suspension-equipped gravel bikes I have tested are the Lauf Seigla and the Canyon Grail RIFT. Compared to the size medium Seigla and small Grail RIFT I rode, the Sarana has the same chainstay length of 425.

Build-wise, in this spec the Sarana comes with a SRAM Force XPLR groupset; always an excellent option in my view. The hooked Black Inc. 46 wheels are 46mm deep and have a 27mm internal width. They are fitted with Continental RaceKing tyres, which have now been succeeded by the Continental Dubnital. Factor told me it designed around the Race King, but overall it is a similar (if not basically identical) tyre to the Dubnital.

The Factor Black Inc. HB05 integrated handlebar comes fitted; it's a pleasingly ergonomic unit with a reach of 75mm, drop of 116mm and a 17.4 degree flare. I've gotten on well with it and tested a 100mm stem and a 360 bar. You can also choose between an 80-130mm stem and 360-400mm bars; good work, Factor.

You can also choose between 165,170 and 172.5mm cranks at checkout, as well as add on a CeramicSpeed OSPW for a cool $600 off dollars.

Performance

I feel it right to mention I haven’t been able to tackle a monster ride or event on the Sarana, which seemed in keeping with what it's about. I had hoped to find the right event to really put it and myself to the test, but nothing materialised that worked in the time I had with the bike. Instead, I have ridden it at home on varied terrain that I test every gravel bike I review on.

I'll talk about what I see as what may be the key strength of the Sarana first: its capability when things get rough and technical. The bike has felt very composed and stable on technical descents and rougher terrain. I have an mtb descent that regularly makes me nervous and that I’ve even had a couple of small crashes on when I've gotten it wrong. I take every gravel bike down it. The top is narrow, fast, rocky and rutted, and the Sarana just danced down it. I've had great fun in these kinds of sections, and the bike let me carry speed and remain composed.

This composure in the rough stuff has been a standout strength. The Rudy fork up front and big tyres do a lot of the heavy lifting, but the bike’s geometry, wheelbase and overall frame angles all help when tackling technical terrain and pushing it.

If rougher terrain and testing yourself off-road is something you go after in your gravel riding, the Sarana will have you covered, and I’d imagine if you're 10+ hours into a ride and are faced with technical terrain when you're in a bit of a state, it should look after you more than a rigid bike.

A topic that needs mentioning when it comes to the Sarana is the bike's overall weight; on my own scales, my test machine (pictured) came out at 9.87kg for a size 52; that’s heavy for a gravel bike, and I have noticed the weight of the bike at times.

It feels sluggish on steeper climbs, and when accelerating at slower speeds, a heavier overall weight will also affect rolling resistance, a more pressing matter when riding gravel.

In these departments, a little less heft would be desirable. That 44 tooth front ring also means I’m grinding a bit on the steep stuff at times, and coupled with the weight, contributes to things feeling a little slower.

On that 44 tooth chainring, it’s going to depend on the rider and course, but I would want a 42 or even a 40 if I was taking on a big, tough ride with a lot of climbing. If I was on my knees and facing a wall, an easier gear would help. Changing chainrings for the demands of a course is nothing new. It might be worth considering some chainring options if you do invest.

I asked Factor about overall weights for bikes as there aren't any published numbers to be found for the Sarana. The brand told me 'the general goal is 1200g for the mid-range sizes' and that 'a more robust, lower modulus layup' was used to add protection in certain areas. So I think from that it's safe to say you can look at around the 1200 gram mark for a mid-sized frame.

The uncut rigid Sarana fork weighs 550 grams according to Factor, and the RockShox Rudy Ultimate fork (with starnut) fitted on my test bike comes in at 1.26kg on my scales.

On a side note, dropping the fork out of the bike to weigh it put a smile on my face; due to the external front brake hose, it was so easy, taking mere minutes, and made for a refreshing change from fully integrated front ends.

We're looking at a 476-gram weight saving if you were to swap to a rigid fork (not factoring the fork expander bung and cutting it to length); It's also worth noting, whilst I'm in weight weenie mode, that the SRAM Red XPLR-equipped bike will save a few hundred grams over the Force model.

By my maths, that still leaves us with a bike weighing over nine kilos, and whilst weight certainly isn't everything, it may be a consideration for some riders.

When I haven't been throwing it downhill or pointing it upward, the Sarana has ridden beautifully; the bike is comfortable to ride, and that 44-tooth ring does allow you to get up to speed and barrel along on flatter, smoother gravel terrain and on the road too.

The handling isn't race bike sharp, but some of that comes from the big front tyre. It's engaging, smooth and confidence-inspiring, and I always feel confident cornering and turning on the bike.

The more I've ridden the Sarana, the more I've begun to feel that it's quite a specific machine, and one that does seem to align with what Factor say it's been designed for.

If you want an all-out racer, it's not the fastest option, and I can't say it feels race bike fast. I will add here that Factor hasn't shared any hard wind tunnel or testing data on the bike, and we haven't tested it here at Cyclingnews, so I can't say for sure how competitive it is aerodynamically.

If you are a racer that's about to tackle a horrifyingly long, tough ride, and need more comfort and capability, it would very likely be a good choice, particularly, I feel, on rougher, more challenging terrain where it really seems to shine for me.

Weight is more of a factor for gravel bikes, and one concern I do have is that even with a rigid fork specced, the Sarana is still a little on the heavy side; based on my numbers from weighing, a rigid-forked model will still be knocking on for 9kg.

The medium Lauf Seigla I tested (with SRAM Red) came in at 8.59kg, and the small Canyon Grail RIFT at 9.64kg with a GRX double chainset, for context.

Racers generally want speed, and a bike that feels fast; the event and terrain would have to be testing enough to warrant you picking the Sarana. I think racers are often robust (or foolhardy) enough to make a faster, possibly harsher racer bike work for them, unless conditions really are testing.

On this topic, I spoke with an ultra rider who has ridden events like the Tour Divide. They made the case that if you are riding that kind of event on a bike like this, you may end up with it weighing north of 20kg, depending on what you are carrying, further negating overall bike weight for ultra events.

We also discussed the fact that fitter or pro riders have the legs to make an on paper slightly slower bike work on the flat, with something like a suspension fork fitted before reaping the rewards off-road and potentially saving even more time. It was a more nuanced point, but it was good to discuss things like this with someone who had ridden a bike for 2 weeks straight, for example.

I'm not racing a full gravel calendar, but I would ultimately like the Sarana to feel and move a bit faster on certain climbs before I could batter it back down the descent on the other side.

In my testing period, the Sarana has performed perfectly in mechanical terms, plus no flats or other major issues. I've had some rattle at times from the downtube storage bag on rough ground; that's about it and was in part down to what I had in there and how I packed it.

It's been a positive test period, and I've always felt the Sarana has had my back.

Maintenance and servicing

When it comes to working on and maintaining the Sarana, there are some key points to bear in mind:

Starting at the front, if you choose the suspension-equipped version, like a lot of its other forks, RockShox recommends a 50-hour lower leg service interval and a 200-hour damper and air spring service for the Rudy XPLR. So you will need to factor this into maintenance of the bike. Lower leg services are generally fairly low cost, with the bigger 200-hour service costing more. At the very least, try to keep the stanchions as clean and dirt-free as you can.

The suspension fork means an external brake hose, which means you can remove the forks in minutes as mentioned and easily service the bike's headset, a plus point after hours off-road.

The threaded BB is also an easy one to stay on top of, as is the external, standard seatpost clamp, which means no corroded or hard-to-reach internal clamp assemblies to worry about.

Wheel-wise, the Black Inc 46 wheels use a three-pawl freehub body which pulls off easily for cleaning and re-greasing at the least, and the wheels are built with brass nipples which eliminate the corrosion issues that can come with aluminium ones.

Value

The Sarana is an expensive machine, and most of us probably expect a premium price tag when we think of the Factor bike range.

I think if you're gravel bike shopping, there are better value buys out there that will do a lot of the same things the Sarana can, and possibly with a lower overall weight.

Decide whether you really want the suspension fork (and additional associated servicing costs), as it costs several hundred dollars more to spec one, and does add weight. If you think your riding is rough enough to regularly need one, or you like the added smoothing, it will work for you.

If you're invested in the brand and love the design, that paintwork is also very nice; for instance, I'm sure you will be very happy. It's a lovely bike to ride.

Verdict

I've had a great time riding the Sarana; as mentioned, it has performed faultlessly, and I've really enjoyed what it has brought to the table in rough, technical sections.

If you are just shopping for a capable gravel bike to do all sorts of things on, it will be a worthwhile purchase; just switch that 44 ring out for a smaller one if you live somewhere rough AND hilly.

For me, it's also a very attractive bike to look at, and that's always important when you're bike shopping.

The ride quality is good; I have no doubt the platform would provide a comfortable place to spend hours on end during a big ride.

That heavier weight does lead to some sluggishness on steep climbs, a black mark in the bike's ultra-endurance USP and my least favourite thing about it.

I agree with Factor in that it's quite a specific bike all told; I feel unless it meets your gravel bike requirements to a T, there may be more suitable bikes out there available for less cash.

French optics brand Julbo has been stopping people from squinting on sunny days in the Alps for over a century. While the lightweight, yet secure frames, and excellent optic options make its Fury glasses a worthy contender amongst the best mountain bike sunglasses, it’s their toughness that makes them genuinely outstanding.

Design and performance

To put that into perspective, while I’m never deliberately clumsy or careless with glasses, I have a horrible habit of finding they’ve got so scratched they’re barely usable after a month of testing. In fact, in some cases, I’ve written off seriously expensive and well-regarded brands in a single ride without even knowing how. In contrast, I wore three sets of Fury sunnies in pretty much constant rotation for months in all weathers, and they emerged virtually unscathed apart from a couple of slight 1.5-2mm fine lines. Depending on the model, the lens uses an anti-fog and oil-repellent coating to resist steaming, water blurring, and greasy finger marks. There are prescription options, too.

The Class 1 optical quality is excellent with various fixed tints available from the darker oil/mirror 13-percent light transmission Spectron 1, to the more temperate climate-suited, light boosting 49-percent light transmission Spectron 3 Hi Contrast lenses that have been my go-to option. Alternatively, you can invest in the ‘Reactiv’ lenses that change from almost clear to smoke tint depending on the ambient light levels. With light transmission down to 87 percent (‘Clear’ is 90 percent), these are great go-to specs for everything that’ll even work at night. The transition isn’t instant though, so if you’re diving into dark woods off a sunny hilltop, expect to be fumbling for a few seconds. They’re not oil-repellent coated either so they need cleaning more frequently.

All Fury models use the same lightweight full coverage frame which holds the lenses in the centre only to stop distortion and make switching optics super easy. Ventilation gaps right across the top and sides and a lower edge cut-out keep steaming up to a minimum, too. You can see the frames themselves all around your peripheral which might annoy some, but it's not enough to significantly reduce the field of vision. The soft shock-absorbing fixed nose pieces and cunning ‘violin bow’ elastomer ear grips keep the Fury secure even on the most furious descents, apparently without sticking to hair (unfortunately, I can’t confirm or deny that).

The locking hinges are still firm on all three sets, even after months of heavy use and there are Fury S glasses for smaller heads. You get a cleaning/carry bag and a soft case with every pair, and considering the quality and durability, the pricing is excellent compared to other premium brands.

Verdict

I normally temper my excitement at getting fancy new specs as I know they’ll somehow be ruined within a few weeks. Not only does the Julbo Fury offer zero distortion, steam-free clarity, secure comfortable fit, and full coverage protection in a variety of easy switch optics and frame colours, it's also outstandingly tough, which boosts its value up to a wise investment rating. Expect to clean the Reactivs a bit more though, and be ready to buffer a bit in savage strobing conditions.

US brand Tifosi makes a massive range of sun, sports, and safety glasses that cover everything from golf to pickleball. There are a ton of options to choose from its cycling range, and the Sledge tested here is one of the brand's best sunglasses for MTB.

Design and specifications

The full framed Sledge glasses I was testing came with three lenses (Clear, AC Red, and Smoke) covering a range of light conditions from night riding to full sun. Though other Sledge models come with different lens options. The lenses have cutaways in the upper edge to aid ventilation and are pretty straightforward to pop in and out of the frame. The frames are made using Grilamid TR-90 – a polycarbonate known for stress and weathering resistance – with a rubberised section running from mid-way down the arms to the tips.

The frames measure 144mm wide by 59mm deep, while the arms measure 120 from the edge of the frame to the tip. The frames and a single lens weigh in at 38g.

Performance

I've ridden wearing the Sledge glasses in all kinds of light conditions, all weathers, temperatures ranging from freezing to baking, and on a number of different bike types. The three lenses supplied basically have you covered for every light condition, but I mostly used the clear lens (for night rides and dark winter days) and the AC Red for pretty much everything else. The red lens did an excellent job of removing harsh light without darkening my vision and was ideal for mixed conditions where I was riding in and out of wooded sections – where the darker Smoke lens proved to be too much.

The glasses stayed in place well without causing any tightness on the sides of my head from the arms like some models can. The Sledge specs also played nicely with all the MTB helmets I tried, even the ones with a deeper fit that have had compatibility issues with some other models I've tested.

The only negative for me is that they were prone to misting up more than most from sweat when slowing and stopping This was probably down to the full frames sitting very close to my cheekbones and eye sockets which left little room for ventilation from below. However, the close fit also meant that trail debris getting behind the lens was an extremely rare event – even in properly filthy winter conditions where mud and roost were flying everywhere.

Verdict

In terms of value, the Sledge sunglasses are very hard to beat. They look good, are tough and comfortable, and work well in every light condition. The propensity to fog up when working hard at slower speeds – particularly in the cold – isn't ideal, but it could be sorted by pulling the glasses away from my face a little. Overall, the fogging isn't a deal breaker for me though and I'd still highly recommend the glasses given everything else they offer and their maximum-bangs-per-buck price tag.

I'd previously never been a fan of photochromic lensed sunglasses for mountain biking. While they're quick to darken, every lens I'd tried was too slow to clear once I'd entered a dimly-lit area such as the woods. The Rudy Project Cutline glasses with their ImpactX 2Laser Red lens changed all that though and are definitely one of the best mountain bike sunglasses I've ever tested.

Design and specifications

Rudy Project's Cutline sunglasses come in a wide range of frame and lens options. I've been testing the Matte Black frames with the ImpactX 2Black lens ImpactX along with a 2Laser Red lens – available separately.

The semi-flexible lenses are said to be unbreakable "for life", though the warranty is for two years. ImpactX lenses are made using "patented polyurethane optical polymers" which Rudy Project says results in a lens that's lighter than polycarbonate and plastic alternatives. The lenses are also treated with a number of different anti-reflective and hydrophobic layers and coatings, they're also vented with four slots in the upper part of each lens.

The frames are a mixture of stiff (arms and hinges) and flexible (everywhere else) rubberised plastic. The nose piece can be adjusted to suit, and the total weight for the glasses is an average 36g. If you want to lighten the load on your face or change your look, you can convert the full-frames to half-frame or barely any frame, as the top and two bottom sections can be removed individually. You can also customise your glasses by buying a frame kit of a different colour and swapping out the interchangeable parts.

There's plenty of flex in the glasses and the arms point slightly inwards to softly grip the sides of your head, while the tips of the arms turn slightly outward.

Performance

I've been testing the Cutline glasses for many months in a wide range of riding and light conditions and have been seriously impressed. The glasses feel secure yet light and comfortable, and have worked well with every helmet I've tried them with. Lens quality is top notch and the glasses are big enough so as not to impair your vision in any way.

The supplied 2Black lens works well in open riding conditions. However, like every photochromic model I've tried, it's too slow to return to clear when entering darker sections of trail – which forces you to drop your pace for the four minutes or so that the lens takes to react to the dimmer light.

Switching to the additional 2Laser Red lens (sold separately but also available with different frames) made a huge difference though. Red lenses work well in shady woodland conditions, so the time it takes for the lens to lose its tint has never been an issue even when plunging from full sun to forest darkness.

I've been really impressed with how tough the ImpactX lens is too. The Cutlines have been regularly splattered with winter filth, stuffed into packs and pockets while already dirty and without their soft case, but remain scratch and mark-free after many months of riding.

Almost as impressive is how resistant they are to fogging. I've had zero issues with them at lower temperatures, but have had occasional mild fogging when working hard on slow climbs during hot days. The lens clears as soon as more air moves past them though and I've yet to ride in a pair of glasses that never fog up at some point.

Verdict

Rudy Project's Cutline glasses with an ImpactX 2Laser Red photochromic lens are an excellent option for almost all light conditions. In fact, the only time I've taken them off to see more clearly has been in wooded trails when riding after dark – as there is still a minuscule tint in the lens even at its clearest.

Scratch resistance on these glasses is second to none. The Cutlines have been properly mistreated but there's not a mark on the lens.

One very minor point is that you can't actually buy the Matte Black Cutline with the 2Laser Red lens I've tested here unless you shell out for an additional lens. However, it is available with the red/back Carbonium frame option and both models come with the same $269.99 / £219.99 / €254.90 price tag.

We’re definitely spoiled for choice when it comes to 100%’s eyewear. There are 14 different lines within the Sport Performance range – that’s even before you start to consider the spread of goggles or more fashion-orientated specs. Then, as well as the Speedcraft SLs we’ve been testing, there’s also the standard Speedcraft range, Speedcraft XS models for smaller faces and the Speedcraft Air which includes tech that allows wearers to control their level of nasal dilation. Oh, and they all come in a ton of different frame and lens combinations.

With loads of other brands around, it's not just 100% that give you an overwhelming number of options when it comes to choosing new eyewear, but handily we've done some of the hard work for you with our guide to the best mountain bike sunglasses. We recommend having a look at that once you've read through our 100% Speedcraft SL review.

Design

There’s not much to choose between the original Speedcraft glasses and the SL versions tested here. However, the SL models are designed with a shorter lens and a more compact nose bridge to better suit smaller faces such as mine.

The package comes in a robust hardcase that zips open and closed. Inside are stowage slots for the Speedcraft frames with their red mirrored lens (HiPER Red Multilayer Mirror Lens+ to be more precise) and the included clear lens, plus a softcase and spare rubber nose grip.

The shape of the flat-edged (which presumably give aero micro-gains for our roadie chums) Speedcraft frame is continuously curved and has a slightly rubberized finish with soft black arm tips for additional comfort and grip. The finish of the half-framed lens is mirrored but not completely opaque and gives off cool looking red-orange reflections.

Performance

The Speedcraft SLs feel very light on your face and, despite feeling super-secure, there’s no noticeable tension behind the ears from the soft rubber-tipped arms. With their half-frames and large lens, you get a fantastic and almost completely uninterrupted field of vision – even the nose piece is almost invisible.

The clarity of the mirrored orange/red lens tested (loads of other tints are available) is excellent and gives a completely consistent view across your full range of vision. A hydrophobic and oleophobic finish means that water or oily fingerprints shouldn’t stick to the lens. In practice, this means that larger water drops rapidly run off, leaving only a trail of tiny droplets that are invisible to the wearer. Finger marks do occur on the lens, but they are relatively easy to wipe away.

The mirrored lens tint is relatively light and does a great job of removing glare and improving contrast rather than giving a darker field of vision. Colours are more muted than on comparable Oakley mirrored lenses, though they are still a touch on the heavy side for riding in heavily wooded trails or low light conditions.

I’ve worn the Speedcrafts in temperatures around zero to just into double figures and, like any glasses, they can occasionally mist up when you’re working hard. Due to the open design of the bottom of the lens and the amount of air between lens and face, they clear up in moments though.

Despite the slightly fragile appearance of the half-frames, the Speedcraft SLs have proved themselves to be surprisingly robust. Despite several crashes in them on woody trails, the lens itself is still scratch-free after months of riding. Perhaps white frames are not the wisest choice for off-road use though, as my test pair now have a slightly brown hue in places due to various mud splats and handling them with dirty riding gloves. Fortunately, the Speedcraft frames come in several other colours, though we’d definitely recommend black.

Verdict

The 100% Speedcraft SL is a premium piece of eyewear and one of the best riding glasses I’ve ever tested. The overall package is a comprehensive one and helps make these top-end glasses a worthy investment.

The lens is not ideal for low-light conditions, but then again, they are sunglasses and also come with a clear lens. Our only real concern relates more to the mucky nature of off-road riding rather than the Speedcrafts themselves. If you choose white or lightly coloured frames, they will inevitably become dirt-stained over time.

Sunglasses have been getting bigger and bigger and while this trend has been around for a while, no eyewear is able to come close to POC’s enormous Devours. The unmatched real estate of the Devours is designed primarily for off-road riding, giving the same coverage as a set of goggles, but with more trail, XC, and gravel-friendly freedom that comes with sunglasses.

There is more to the Devour glasses than just their massive lenses and POC has added plenty of neat design features to tailor them for off-road riding, however, the size will always be the defining feature of the Devours.

So when it comes to the best mountain bike sunglasses, is bigger actually better? We have been riding the POC Devour glasses to find out.

Design and performance

The Devours at first appear to be a frameless design, however on closer inspection, there is actually a full-frame structure behind the huge Carl Zeiss lens. This separation of lens and frame is what has allowed POC to offer massive coverage without affecting the ergonomics of the glasses.

The frames themselves feature adjustable arms to tune the fit as well as a two-position nose bridge. There are little grippers on the ends of the hooked arms to add a little more grip when wearing or stored in a helmet.

There is the option of regular lenses, Clarity Trail, or Clarity Road, which give complete protection from harmful UVA and UVB rays and are treated with an anti-scratch and Ri-Pel hydrophobic and oleophobic treatment to combat dirt, water, and sweat.

Although the glasses' size makes them visually striking, the branding is pretty subtle. There are POC logos molded on the arms with a little more POC aesthetic text printed on the frame and tucked behind the lens. POC offers a number of frame colour options as well as a wide selection of lens styles to suit your riding conditions.

The Devours were originally released alongside POC’s Kortal helmet, pairing perfectly with a helmet designed to work with goggles. I used the Devours with a number of other POC helmets, including the trail-focused Axion and road/gravel Ventral and Omne, and found they worked well with those too. I didn’t have any issues with helmets from other brands either such as the Oakley DRT5 and Smith Forefront 2.

Real estate isn’t cheap with the Devours priced at $250 / £230 making them expensive even in the premium cycling eyewear realm. POC includes a second clear lens to soften the blow which is handy for mountain bikers and those who ride in dim conditions. It would be nice to see a hard case included at this price point, especially as you will want to keep your lenses in good condition as new ones cost $100 / £80.

Performance 

With such a huge lens, it's no surprise that the Devours feel considerably bigger than any other pair of sunglasses I have worn. The field of view is second to none though and you really have to strain your eyeballs into the peripherals to see the frames.

I thought the lens size might cause issues with non-POC helmets but there have been no problems so far with any of the helmets I have tried. The size means there is loads of coverage and the extended edges add a good amount of side protection too.

The fit is very comfortable and they stayed in place well when rattling down the trail. Although the lenses are wide, the narrow frame shape sits close to the face and avoids any interference with deep-fitting helmets.

Swapping the lenses is an extremely simple process, with six hooks holding the lens in place it's just a matter of popping the lens out the top two and removing the lens. Refitting the lens is equally as straightforward – line up the lens in the bottom four fixtures before pressing it into the frame. There is plenty of flex in the frame which means the process doesn't require force or manhandling either.

The combination of the front vents and set-back frames quickly takes care of any potential fogging – especially if your helmet has channeling across the brow. It’s a bit too effective though and, as someone who suffers badly from watery eyes when riding, I found the Devours to be too breezy when riding at speed. To the point that I needed to clean the tears from the lenses between some trails.

The tears weren’t the only things I was having to clean off the lenses. Despite the claimed oleophobic treatment, the lenses were prone to fingerprints. The clear lenses were particularly bad for stubborn fingerprints that were tricky to clean off.

Verdict

If you're looking for the biggest sunglasses, whether it's for style or protection from eye-poking, the Devours are going to be at the top of the list. Unless you want to wear goggles, no other eyewear offers close to the coverage and field of view as the Devours making them one of the best options out on the trail. The comfortable fit means they will also cross over to gravel and road duties too.

The design is top-notch when it comes to the shape and structure of the frames and lenses. Adjustability assures a good face fit, they work well with a range of helmets and the lenses are simple to swap. There's a good range of tints and colours to tailor the sunglasses to your regular riding conditions, although there isn’t a photochromatic option.

Ventilation was always going to be a key consideration for POC when combating heat and misting with such a large set of glasses, unfortunately, they overachieve making fast descents quite literally eye-watering.

The original Big Trail started as a collaboration between Merida and UK dealers wanting something more rad than the average trail hardtail, but it’s become a super popular mix of tech-taming capability and everyday practicality the world over. For this latest version, Merida has made the geometry even more aggressive to create a serious rad ride that’ll kick ass on proper enduro trails while still letting you mount a kickstand for work days.

Design

Before you freak out about the idea of utility mounts making it look like you’ve stolen a Dutch nan’s shopping bike to hit the trails on, rest assured that the kickstand, rack, and full fender fixtures are very cleverly hidden. The only ‘basic’ looking part is the big seat stay gusset that can mount the ‘whale tail’ rear fender. That’s only a thin plate though and when you look closely at the top quality welding, hollowed out rear dropouts and the flowing hydroformed tube shapes, Merida’s metal working mastery is clear to see.

The big head tube allows the use of ‘Wire Port’ internal brake and gear routing through the Acros headset to keep the main tubes clear and clean, and Merida has capitalised on that with relatively slim and shallow, organically shaped top and down tubes. The down tube is long enough to fit two bottle cages on every size (500 + 700ml on XS – M, 2 x 700ml on L – XL) with an accessory mount in the top tube ‘armpit’. That leaves the oversized seat post straight and clear to take a long travel dropper (200mm on the ‘Long’ size I rode) in a stiffness and reliability boosting 34.9mm diameter. There’s only room for a 2.4in rear tyre between the curving rear stays though, which is a shame as fatter rear rubber is a nice option on a hardtail that’s begging to be ridden properly hard.

You do get a top chain guide mounted on the ISCG bolts around the bottom bracket though, and a 55mm chain line keeps the links clearer of mud on dirty days. Chaotic trail calmness gets another real audio and emotional upgrade from the fully foam-sleeved cables inside the mainframe and a dual-compound clip-on chainstay guard that even has hollow nodules to further deaden chain noise. While we’re on the subject of detailing, the seat tube clamp is a really neat, crisp, twin-band piece that elevates the overall aesthetic more than a basic forged option. Finally, the far end of the stays uses a distinctive angular ‘elbow’ above the dropouts to give clearance to fit the four-pot Shimano brakes on the chainstays rather than seat stays, where they could potentially reduce compliance. Do I even have to say it’s UDH too, or is that just expected on new bikes now?

Geometry

If you’ve been watching what Merida has done with the ‘Agilometer’ geometry on its One-Sixty, One-Forty and One-Twenty full-suspension bikes, then the angles and lengths of the new Big Trail will be less of a surprise. 64-degree head tube, 70mm BB drop and 480mm reach (on a size Long) are still proper rad for a mass-production hardtail rather than a niche cult bike. Merida has been slightly more conservative with their 76.5-degree seat angle compared to its crazy steep full-sus bikes, but it’s still very much a front and centred riding position. If you don’t want a super long stretch, then relatively short seat tubes mean you can size down without running into saddle height issues either, hence the use of Extra Short / Extra Long, etc. naming rather than Extra Small / Extra Large, etc.

Components and build

Merida has matched the more radical angles with a more control-focused build on the Big Trail too. That headlines with the Shimano XT brakes with a 200mm front rotor connecting to the trail through a 2.5in wide, triple MaxTerra compound Maxxis DHF tyre. A basic RockShox Pike fork separates them with 140mm of travel and Shimano hubs on the 30mm internal Merida rims create a sturdy wheelset. Hassle your Merida dealer to fit the tape, valves and sealant needed to turn them tubeless before you leave the shop though as they aren’t supplied. An EXO+ carcass on the rear Dissector tyre means you might not need an insert unless you’re really getting rowdy in the rocks. Deore gears deliver their usual remarkably smooth and accurate shifting reminder that you don’t need anything fancier. The low cost of replacement reduces the concerns about close passing trailside boulders too. While my test bike came with 170mm cranks, production bikes will have 165mm arms on all sizes but XL, which means more ground clearance to compensate for the super low bottom bracket.

The rest of the bike is Merida own brand, which is totally fine. I particularly appreciated the higher rise bars which help lifts the far away front end. The ‘Ergon–ish’ grips are comfy and the short coffin-shaped stem gets matching coffin-shaped spacers underneath. Merida has used a fixed-length dropper post rather than an adjustable one to save a bit of cash, and the lumpy lever mount isn’t the prettiest thing, but the lever action is actually really smooth. The Merida saddle is comfy enough and it comes with a mini-tool mounted underneath. The rear axle has a 4mm and 6mm hex head built into it too.

Ride, handling and performance

While all the detailing and smart spec is important to the overall package, what should dominate a lot of riders' decision to put the Big Trail on your short list is the ride vibe. That’s because the Big Trail isn’t just an exercise in extreme handling arithmetic, it’s clearly a bike that’s been ride tested into a really righteous balance for as much radness as you can handle. It only took about five minutes into the first ride for the super slack front end to save me. Turning a full facial slam into a self-steering emergency press-up save, when the back end went sideways on a wet root as I abseiled a janky drop. With that precedent set, the rest of the first ride was all about pushing harder and harder and realising just how much the Big Trail could handle. Actually, ‘handle’ sounds a bit half-hearted, the naturally centralised, feet-on-the-floor feel insists you attack all the sketchy stuff as fast as possible. It totally dominated snaking chutes that I’d been really concerned about rolling into beforehand and it’ll rail a turn like someone has you on a lunge rein.

It’s not just the geo either. Those slim, pressure-moulded main tubes set up an excellent blend of traction-boosting compliance without worrying twang or wander that could teach many steel bikes a lesson. There’s enough spring and life to really flatter the grip, comfort and smoothness of the base-level fork too, so I never worried about fully committing the front end into the most random rut, root and rock off-piste. As mentioned previously, the higher riser bars help lift the nose off drops or manualing through ditches. The seat angle means there’s enough weight over the front to keep the tyre steering and straight on steep scrambles too. It’s a good job the production bikes will have shorter cranks though, as I had to do a lot of half-cranking to stop tapping out on ruts and stepped sections. While it's relatively light for a trail hardtail, the build kit and grippy tyres mean it's no XC race bike if you're really into long rides and hefty climbs.

Inevitably, the rear end also makes things a game of two halves in terms of the amount of abuse coming from the back wheel. That massive seat tube definitely means sitting and pedalling through rough sections can be a jolting, momentum-spilling experience. Hover your butt off the saddle though and there was enough give in the stays to not find every old fracture in my ankles even on long, rough descents. Backing off ten percent on jagged and ragged technical climbs rather than charging bluntly at everything felt like it gave a thirty percent payback in terms of flow and grip too.

I can’t underestimate how calming the quietness of foam-wrapped cables, pneumatic chain protector, hushed Shimano rear hub, and even the genius spec of rattle-free non-finned pads in the XT brakes is when things might otherwise feel frantic either. It’s literally like wearing a full-face helmet in terms of reducing the acoustic anarchy that automatically spikes anxiety as soon as things start kicking off. Another sure sign that this is a bike that’s been created and crafted by real riders who understand what a big deal small things can be, not just desk jockeys looking over the shoulders of other brands.

Verdict

If you want to go on a forum to complain, then yeah, I’d rather the Big Trail had normal cable routing and space for a bigger rear tyre to reduce the game of two halves impact response. The riotously enjoyable, yet fail-forgiving ride of the radical geometry and compliant yet controlled front end outweighs those niggles by many multiples on genuinely big trails though. Both frame and parts pick are loaded with solid choices and smart details that really elevate the complete package too.

The death of Vitus and Ragley has dramatically reduced the options for affordable but properly radical hardtails, which makes the reshaped Merida even more welcome. You get the same frame on the £2,000 / €2,350 600 version here, the £1,500 / €1,175 Big Trail 500 (with a RockShox Psylo fork), and £1,100 / €1,300 300 version (Suntour XCR34 fork). Whatever model you buy, the fact that it’s a full-feature daily driver for commuting or utility use potentially makes it even better value

Test conditions

Surface: Natural off piste loam, roots and loose rock and a bit of kitty litter red run track

Trails: Natural Enduro DH and singletrack play runs and red and black grade trail center silliness

Tech spec: Merida Big Trail 600

Discipline: Trail

Price: £2,000 / €2,350 / not available in US

Head angle: 64 degrees

Frame material: Hydroformed aluminum alloy

Fork: RockShox Pike, 140mm travel

Size: X Short, Short, Medium, Long, X Long

Weight: 14.48kg (Long tested)

Wheel size: 29in

Chainset: Shimano Deore , 32T, 170mm arms with Hollowtech II bottom bracket.

Rear mech: Shimano Deore

Shifter: Shimano Deore

Cassette: Shimano Deore 12-speed 11-51T

Brakes: Shimano Deore XT hydraulic disc brakes with 200/180mm rotors

Tires: Maxxis DHF 3C MaxTerra 29x2.5in front and Maxxis Dissector 3C MaxTerra 29x2.4in rear tires

Wheels: Merida 30mm tubeless rims on Shimano hubs

Bars: Merida high rise alloy 780mm width

Stem: Merida alloy

Grips: Merida Ergo lock-on

Seatpost: Merida EXP TR 200mm dropper

Saddle: Merida TR

The Rockhopper has been part of Specialized’s lineup since 1985, and ever since its release it’s been one of the most sorted options for new riders getting into mountain biking.

The latest version we have here sports an impressively low weight and a smooth engaging ride, but with several design features severely limiting upgrade potential, it’s hard to recommend to riders who are wanting to enhance the performance of their ride as time goes on.

Does the Rockhopper have what it takes to be one of the best budget mountain bikes? Keep scrolling as we hit the trails to find out.

This review was originally published in October 2022. The Rockhopper Elite 29 is no longer available, but the nearest equivalent model is the Specialized Rockhopper Expert.

Design and geometry

At the heart of the Rockhopper Elite lies an A1 butted aluminium frameset that utilises a low-slung top tube, a chunky ovalized downtube and sleek stays that give a really premium look and feel. With a suitably low 305mm bottom bracket that positions you 62mm below the axles, and a 68.5 degree head angle paired with a 445mm reach (size Large), the Rockhopper projects well on the trail.

While short chainstays are all the rage, Specialized has opted to run a 440mm back centre here, which places the Rockhopper’s rear end at the longer end of the spectrum – I presume this move was made to better suit the Rockhopper’s XC intention, along with providing a balanced ride feel throughout the wide S to XXL size range.

Specialized has gone to great detail to ensure the Rockhopper’s aesthetic is as good as it can be, and by hiding rack mounts inside the stays and featuring a sleek chainstay bridge that doubles as a kickstand mounting point, the overall frame is pleasing to the eye. I'm a huge fan of the army green colourway too, but for those who aren’t, Specialized also offers the Rockhopper Elite in an additional two colourways.

Internal cable routing provides a neat and quiet ride, and there’s space for a fully internally routed dropper should you want to upgrade in the future. But while the cable routing is slick, the quality of the inside of the seat tube itself was sub-par, and due to a lack of reaming, my seat post was scratched up right from the off.

While lots of small details have been stressed, it's strange that several larger, fundamental parts of the design have been missed – the most obvious one being the straight non-tapered head tube. With pretty much all of the best aftermarket forks in 2022 only being available with a tapered 1-18/1.5in steerer option, it seems odd for Specialized to make such an oversight, which really limits the Rockhopper’s future upgrade potential. While I do understand that bikes in this price bracket have been hit the hardest following the global pandemic, I can’t help but feel this decision is limiting the Rockhopper’s general sustainability beyond 2023.

I tested the 29er version, but Specialized also offers the Rockhopper Elite with 27.5in wheels. While smaller wheels this would add an aspect of playfulness to the Rockhopper’s ride, I do think the bike's nature and focus is best suited to bigger 29in hoops.

Components

A straight head tube requires a straight steerer, but thankfully Specialized has selected the excellent RockShox Judy Solo Air fork to provide comfort and grip up front. Having an air-sprung damper means the fork can be adjusted specifically to any rider's weight, which in turn should offer an increase in composure over a more basic coil-sprung fork, similar to the sub-par option that’s fitted to the Trek Roscoe we tested alongside the Rockhopper. While the Judy itself is a component highlight, it’s strange to see that different frame sizes get different amounts of fork travel – the small gets 80mm, the medium gets 90mm, while large and bigger get 100mm; this is a specification choice that is going to give smaller riders a compromised performance on the trail.

Unfortunately, the same goes for stem lengths too, as larger frame sizes get longer stems, another specification choice that is going to offer different characteristics between the various frame sizes – in reality it just means the taller you are, the worse your handling characteristics are. Thankfully, the stem is an easy switch and the stock 740mm bar is a solid and comfortable shape, if a little narrow by current standards.

It’s not all negative in the component department, though and the 11-speed Shimano Deore provides smooth and reliable shifting throughout the enormous 11-51t cassette. The Deore derailleur also features a clutch which helps to keep chain slap to a minimum. But the best component on the whole bike is by far the brakes, and Shimano’s MT200 hydraulic disc units provide best-in-class power, feel and reliability.

Keeping the Rockhopper rolling is a set of 25mm internal rims laced to smooth rolling Formula hubs. Both the front and rear use a traditional quick-release axle system. Specialized’s own Fast Trak tyres roll fast but they’re undersized by modern standards and the relatively firm T5 rubber compound prioritises rolling resistance over grip.

Ride, handling and performance

Thanks to the generous bottom bracket drop, the Rockhopper feels natural and confident on the trail, and when riding back-to back with the more cramped and dated feeling Trek Roscoe 6, the Rockhopper’s low and stable riding position gave me the confidence to push harder almost everywhere. To complement this ‘in the bike’ feel I would like to see the head angle slackened a degree or two though, and while it would dilute the addictively snappy nature slightly, I do think it would unleash the Rockhopper’s full descending potential and maximise fun.

The Rockhopper provides procession and smoothness on the trail, and massively contributing to this smoothness is the Rockshox Judy fork. An air-sprung fork means rider-specific tune-ability to an individual’s weight, and the performance enhancement it gave over roots, through slick off-camber sections and over fast repeated hits just echoed how it’s a vital component for bikes around the $1,000/£1,000 price point. The fact that it’s a straight steerer matched with a non-tapered head tube is a real sour grape though, as it leaves next to no upgrade potential in the fork department should you be looking for even greater performance down the line.

The low 13.2kg weight means the Rockhopper feels eager to surge up and along the trail – something that encouraged me to get out the saddle and sprint through the next section of track with enthusiasm. Along with the fact that the huge range cassette provides a suitable gear for any gradient, I think the Rockhopper would be a stellar option for riders who favour climbing and long-ride efficiency. The biggest thing that limits riding fluidity is the lack of a dropper post, and it’s something I’d like to see on a hardtail at this price.

The best-in-class brakes from Shimano provide the feel and power to slow speeds in a controlled manner with just one finger on the lever. But the biggest cause of compromised traction are Specialized’s own FastTrak tires, and while they do roll fast the hard rubber compound and narrow width proved to be sketchy as soon as I remotely begin to push on the trail. As a result, swapping to a bigger volume gripper front tire would be the first alteration I’d make to the Rockhopper Elite.

Verdict

Summarising the Rockhopper is tricky as its composed shape, great feel and low weight provide some highly desired traits on the trail. However, while I understand bikes in this price bracket have been the main victims of the recent global pandemic, it’s hard to recommend a bike to someone that is heavily compromised in component longevity and upgradability. That being said, if you think you’re a rider who will keep things stock and just ride, the Rockhopper’s trail prowess, excellent brakes and sorted gearing make it a great riding option that should provide years of fun.

Tech specs: Specialized Rockhopper Elite 29

• Model name: Rockhopper Elite 29
• Discipline: Entry-level trail
• Head angle: 68.5 degrees
• Frame material: Alloy
• Sizes: S to XXL
• Weight: 13.2kg (large tested)
• Wheel size: 29x2.3in
• Suspension (front): 100mm travel, 46mm offset
• Groupset: Shimano Deore 1x11-speed
• Crank: Stout 30T alloy
• Brakes: Shimano MT200 with 180/160mm rotors
• Tires: Specialized Fast Trak T5 29x2.35in tires on 25mm rims
• Bars: Stout Mini Rise 740mm
• Seat post: Unbranded 31.6mm

Chinese bikes are one of perhaps two overarching themes in road bikes, along with ‘aero at the front, lightweight at the rear’. While it’s safe to say that a great proportion of ‘Western’ frames are manufactured in China, those bikes that are fully and proudly Chinese are very much upsetting the apple cart, and are now challenging the best road bikes on the market for top dog status and, more importantly, for your money.

In order to furnish you with objective and subjective testing to help inform your purchasing decisions, we’ve begun incorporating these Chinese bikes into our testing. We’ve run the X-Lab AD9 through the wind tunnel before giving it a full review, and at the time of writing, I am due to receive the new Incolour SSR, and my colleague Tom is in the process of testing a new Winspace. Now, though, it’s the turn of the Seka Spear, a bike (or frameset, I should probably say) that has been at the very forefront of the hype train.

The Spear has class-leading aero, a superbly low weight, it’s very speccable at point of sale, offers a ‘race’ geometry in some sizes, and comes in at a price that undercuts the likes of the Specialized Tarmac by a fair wedge, a bike it shares basically its entire geometry with. On paper, it should be able to claim status as the best road bike going, but there is a big catch: it’s just not stiff enough.

I was lucky enough to pinch the frame from our video manager, Jamie, and cut about on my home roads before taking the Spear out to the Alps to zing it up and down some mountains to see what it’s really about. It’s good, but I don’t think it’s quite good enough for ‘best’ status.

Design and aesthetics

When I first laid eyes on the Seka Spear when it arrived, kitted out with some very garish No.6 wheels, I thought it looked far too over-the-top. The silver and purple paint put me in mind of a Dairy Milk wrapper, or perhaps a Premier Inn lobby, but with a more muted set of Enve SES 4.5 wheels, I must say my attitude to the frame has softened considerably.

The frame itself is lovely and skinny, very much in the vein of the Tarmac, which belies the extremely impressive aero package on offer. With a rider on, this is the fastest all-rounder we’ve ever tested, only being beaten by three full-on aero machines. Where it really seems to shine is at higher yaw angles, which likely has something to do with the ‘Wind Eye’; the bifurcated seatstay insertions that create two large holes where they join the seat tube. We obviously can’t attribute performance to a single feature, but it’s at least not holding it back in any way. If you want to have a deep dive into the aero package, then we’ve got a whole Seka Spear wind tunnel deep dive for you to pore over.

The frame is available in two guises: a standard version weighing in at 780g, or the RDC version (Race Day Combatant), tipping the scales at 685g, both for an effectively unpainted matte black frame in a size Medium. I tested the RDC variety.

As well as two tiers of frame, separated by $600, you also have the standard run of sizes plus a ‘Race’ geometry in both medium and large that are a little longer and a little lower. In geometry terms, the Spear is effectively the same as the Specialized Tarmac, but with a smidge shorter reach and higher stack in the standard option and a smidge longer and lower in the race version. I tested the standard geometry.

I’ll get into value later on, but from what I can see you have to order a Seka Rapier cockpit with the frameset at an additional cost of $500, and a seatpost at a cool $200. The latter isn’t an issue, but as I’ll get into shortly, the former is. While it comes in a great many widths and lengths, it is very flexible and not one I got along with at all.

You can only buy the Spear as a frameset, and given the impressive specs, I wanted to give it a fair crack of the whip, so the aforementioned Enves were paired with a full Shimano Dura-Ace groupset and 30mm Continental GP5000 S TR tyres in a build that’s pretty hard to fault.

Performance

The Seka Spear is in many ways an excellent machine. The geometry, either derived from the Tarmac or happened upon by coincidental convergent evolution, is brilliant, and in combination with the low weight makes for an engaging ride. The real issue is that neither the frame nor the cockpit is stiff enough to make the most of what the geometry is offering up.

The cockpit itself is ergonomically and aerodynamically sound, but there’s simply too much flex, especially in the drops. This is compounded by a frame that, by our lab testing, has a very flexible bottom bracket (less stiff even than my steel Fairlight Strael), but the thing I found most frustrating was the amount of torsional flex you can put through the thing, meaning that with the saddle braced against your leg, the bike can shift under you more than you lean in cornering. It doesn’t feel more flexible than a light steel frame, but it certainly doesn’t feel as stiff as a moderately stiff carbon one.

It’s not scary in any way like the Felt Nexar either, but it gives a feeling of imprecision in the bends that you simply don’t have with stiffer machines like the Pinarello Dogma, Scott Addict RC, and the Specialized Tarmac SL8.

This is a shame, because the geometry is excellent. It’s stable at high speeds without ever being dull, and the turn-in is immediate without being so lively that you have to back off. It sits right in that Goldilocks zone.

The flexibility does mean it eats up road chatter and poor surfaces very well, however, and as a bike for long, fast days without being ground to a fine powder, it’s excellent, and at times when descending Alpe d’Huez during some resurfacing works I was glad of the additional compliance. In fact, I set my fastest ever time down the hill on the Spear (361 / 77,749 at the time of writing, thank you very much), but I know that if it had that pip and zing of more taut frames, I could have gone faster.

The low weight is certainly dreamy uphill, especially on sustained efforts. On those little raises where a sprint can muscle you to the top the stiffness means you feel a little less connected to the rear end at max attack, but it doesn’t skip about either like I find with some very stiff machines under high load out of the saddle.

The aero package is certainly satisfying, aided by the ability to fit a cockpit of suitably modern (by which I mean narrow) proportions, flexibility aside. On the flat it ticks away very well, though because it’s more compliant than many bikes, it doesn’t feel all that fast on the flat, as humans perceive speed primarily through that high-frequency vibration that comes broadly under ‘road buzz’. Feeling fast and being fast are different things though, as evidenced by the Cervélo S5 for example, which is phenomenally fast but never really felt it.

Time, and a lack of suitable 32mm tyres at my disposal, meant I wasn’t able to max out the stated tyre clearance, but I suspect this would turn the Spear into a brilliant poor-surface all-road-lite machine (no, I know we don’t need yet another new genre of bikes). Despite the RDC designation on the fork crown, it sadly doesn’t quite feel like a true race-ready machine. It’s not far off, but I suspect the designers prioritised weight over stiffness, and with the aero package on offer I’d take a handful of extra grams in the frame and cockpit to make it feel more like a coiled spring.

Value

Given that the hype around the Spear is that it’s a ‘Tarmac killer’ it makes sense to compare it to the SL8, though as I write this I am aware that a new version is imminent, having spotted one at the Tour Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes recently. All the same, the non-RDC varietal is about $600 less than the standard Tarmac frameset, and the RDC varietal is about $2k cheaper than the S-Works model.

On paper, especially compared to the S-Works, it’s an absolute bargain. With that ‘spare’ two grand, you could get a better cockpit and some very good wheels, but with the guts of the machine feeling as they do it’s still going to feel a lesser bike. I don’t honestly think many customers are weighing up an S-Works or an RDC Seka, and more likely is an RDC Seka or a standard Tarmac, which retail for a near identical value; get the Tarmac.

The Seka is good, but the Tarmac is excellent, and while I appreciate that $600 is a lot of money, if you’re erring on the side of economy and choosing a non-RDC spear over a standard Tarmac I’d perhaps suggest saving up some money or trimming the grams elsewhere in your build sheet to get a better chassis.

Verdict

By the numbers the Seka Spear promises an awful lot, and it actually delivers in a great many ways. It’s extremely light, it has a stellar aero package for an all-rounder, it looks cool, is decently configurable at point of sale, and for a Chinese bike it’s relatively easy to get a hold of. The geometry offers up a handling package that is good, but not great only by dint of a lack of system stiffness from the frame and cockpit.

That’s really the only fault I have with the Spear. I think perhaps it's because my expectations were so high that I came away from my testing feeling a touch disappointed.

It’s a good bike, but not an incredible one, and certainly not a machine to topple the best all-rounders from more established brands… yet. Give it another iteration with a greater focus on stiffness and even if nothing else changes this would be a hell of a bike.

Garmin launched its Edge 550 and 850 models in September 2025, replacing both the 540 and 840 units which had been in the range for some time

The 550 remains a non-touchscreen unit, though its screen was upgraded. This seems to have come at the expense of overall battery life, which has decreased, and which hasn’t been met with cheers in some quarters.

The Edge 550 retails at £379.99 / $399.99 / €449.99, building on the long-term popularity of the 520, 530 and 540 models that preceded it. It's less than a Hammerhead Karoo, and sits roughly in between, depending on your territory, the Wahoo Roam and Bolt. These brands make the best bike computers when shopping, though other players are gaining traction.

I’ve been riding with the 550 for close to 2,000 miles. I’ve used it for everything: bike launches in foreign countries, regular rides close to home, lots of training sessions, gravel, and road racing. I’ve used it long enough for any potential issues to surface.

If you're shopping for a computer, this review should help you decide if the 550 is right for you.

Design and aesthetics

Like the rest of the Garmin computer range, you receive the Edge 550 with a standard round out front handlebar mount, standard O-ring mount, charger cable, lanyard and documentation. Setup is very easy; you can use a QR code to connect your Garmin Connect app and set everything up quickly.

One of the biggest changes between the Edge 540 and 550 was the screen and user interface upgrade that the 550 received. The screen uses a liquid crystal screen display over the 540’s Transflective TFT (Thin-Film Transistor) screen; it’s also slightly larger and is very similar in looks to the flagship Edge 1050 model's glossy, sleek screen. Overall, it’s bright, crisp and easy to read thanks to the boosted pixel count.

Dimensions-wise, there isn’t much in it; the 540 measured up at 57.8 x 85.1 x 19.6 mm compared to the 550’s 54.6 x 92.2 x 16.8 mm. The 550 is also slightly heavier. I’ve included a photo comparing the size of a few different units below so you can see for yourself.

The sheer volume of features packed into lots of Garmin smart watches and bike computers is a major part of the brand's fitness calling card. The 550 is no different and is packed with features from downloadable training plans to gear ratio use analysis; you can read the whole list here. The Garmin Connect app also lets you do an awful lot of post-ride analysis and is easily one of the most comprehensive apps out there from the computer brands.

There is too much to list; bear this in mind if lots of features appeal to you. I said it in my Edge 1050 review, but if you are the kind of rider who wants to fully embrace every feature, try them all out and mess around regularly with your setups, the volume of features on offer from Garmin units should appeal.

Let's look at what changed between the 540 and 550 units. Lots of features remain, it’s not a total wholesale overhaul, and aside from the better screen, storage and processing, you will need to decide if the extras are enough for you.

The Edge 550 gains more internal storage over the 540, jumping up to 32GB from the 16GB the 540 had, so there's more space for routes. The 550 also has a faster processor to speed everything up.

The 550 has 5Hz GPS tracking capability in the enduro and downhill riding profiles to boost off-road accuracy, along with more MTB-specific support generally. There’s also smart fuelling and hydration updates, a timing gates feature to help you measure specific split times, real-time weather overlay, community hazard reporting for things like potholes and upgrades to the Garmin GroupRide feature.

A key buying decision for riders is whether to go for the 550 or 850, and the two are tied closely together. The 850 has a lot of the same features but gets a touchscreen as well as buttons, audible navigation prompts, a bell and the Garmin contactless payment function, as well as a bigger battery life.

On battery life, the 550 has decreased compared to the 540 on account of that nice new screen. Claimed battery life for the 540 was up to 26 hours, claimed life for the 550 (from Garmin) is up to 12 hours for demanding use, and up to 36 hours in battery saver mode.

Garmin has already published a list of software updates for the unit, and you can see what has been adjusted or amended on the brand's site. There has been a 0% brightness screen fix, for example; it’s an interesting list to go over.

Looks-wise, the Edge 550 is a great-looking unit. Its top and bottom edges are squared off and aren't as rounded as the 540; this somehow makes the unit look more modern for me.

The unit has seven buttons altogether. The main power button and up and down arrow navigation buttons are all on the left-hand side, the bottom centre has lap and stop star ride buttons sitting either side of the charging port, whilst the right-hand side has the select and scroll back buttons. All told, it's a very similar layout to the 540.

Performance

That upgraded screen is a key talking point, and it’s very nice, bright, glossy and crisp. I can’t really fault it and can comfortably use it on lower brightness levels, which aids battery life. At max brightness, it isn’t quite as bright as the Hammerhead Karoo, in my view, but I don’t think anyone will criticise the screen; it’s very nice.

The 550 user interface is easy enough to navigate; it's not my favourite out there, but it will be familiar if you are already a Garmin Edge user. You can end up deep into some menus and settings, and a fair bit of button clicking is needed, but overall, it's simple to learn the unit and find what you need.

If you are a 540 or existing Garmin user, everything will be familiar. If you are thinking of switching. Ride profiles are highly customisable; you can toggle the various Garmin pop-up screens off if they are all a bit overkill for you. I know some riders turn off the pothole alerts due to feeling too interrupted at times, for example. The unit will upload your sessions to Training Peaks if you are a trainer, and you can take advantage of the Garmin coaching sessions and plans if you so wish. The Climbing metric screens all still do their job as well.

When it comes to battery life, the Edge 550 battery does drain fairly quickly. On average, this year, I’m doing around eight hours of riding per week, and my longest weekly ride is about 3.5 hours. I'm never going to trouble it on a single ride, but whereas I can leave other computers for multiple weeks between charges, I’ve had to stay on my toes a little bit more with the Edge 550; I’ve come close to being caught out once or twice with a low battery after several rides.

Usage-wise, that’s riding with an HRM and power meter paired and displayed on every ride, and with a nice bright screen, or with it on auto brightness, you may as well ride with a nice bright display if the screen is capable of it and I assume this is the approach Garmin has taken with the device; you're getting a brighter, better screen, overall, battery life is just slightly lower.

Charging responsibility, of course, lies with the user; it’s no good slating a unit’s battery life if you forget to charge it before your long ride at the weekend. It’s not hard to plug a device in and ensure the battery is charged. If you're riding up to 15 hours a week, you're not going to suffer too much with slightly more regular charging. If you are doing big rides regularly, this may not be the perfect model for you, battery life-wise, and Garmin might possibly steer you toward the Edge 1040 solar.

I don’t love the 550’s buttons, and since this is a non-touchscreen model, you will be using them exclusively. I find them a little too small, and the click is a little too vague when they are pressed. It’s fine differences, they do their job, but when I’m in the middle of an interval and need to toggle screens because the climb screen has appeared (you can of course turn this off), snatching for that fairly small button when you are hurting is at times harder than I would like it to be. There's also just so much packed into the unit that I think a touchscreen, especially now that we are all so used to smartphones, would boost the user experience and make life easier.

This hits home when comparing them to the larger, textured buttons on the Hammerhead Karoo. I just find them more user-friendly and easy to work with on that unit.

My key navigational test with the 550 came when I completed a 200km gravel/road audax event in the winter. This route took in a wide range of terrain, and the route was completely unknown to me - a perfect test. Maps were all easy to follow, and everything worked as it should, but I found the zoomed-in map somewhat tricky to follow at times in things like tight woodland. Navigation is solid here, and if you are a Garmin user already, there won't be any surprises, but the Garmin mapping is still not my favourite, and I favour the Hammerhead and Wahoo maps for clarity and ease of navigation.

Value

You are looking at £379.99 / $399.99 / €449.99 for the Edge 550 at RRP if you want one, that's a chunk more than the Edge 540 when it launched.

Does this unit offer good value? Yes, and no.

It's hugely capable, as with all but the most basic Garmin units. I can't stress enough how much you can do with a unit and the Garmin Connect app; there's too much for me. The computer is super powerful, and plenty fast enough in use, that the new screen is also very nice.

However, I think we are very nearly into touchscreen money here, and if a unit in 2026 is going to be button only, they better be excellent buttons, and I can't call the 550 buttons excellent. This is a fairly big weak point in this unit's offering if you ask me, and I'd still rather save up the extra cash and buy a Karoo or 850 or even a 540 if I were spending my own money.

Verdict

The Garmin Edge 550 is a really solid computer that can do a hell of a lot. I've said it before, but it's worth repeating: modern bike computers are absolute powerhouses. The differences are finer between units these days, and computers are so good that generally, it's the nuanced points that determine model differences at times.

It's done everything I've needed it to do without issue, but I don't love it. The unit may get criticism in some quarters for the reduced battery life, which on paper is a negative, but if you don't consistently do 15-hour-plus rides, I can't see it causing many issues; just charge it.

My main issue is the buttons, the at times slightly more fiddly navigation that comes from them and the Garmin UI and their overall size and feel. With so much packed into the unit, navigation should be a joy, and I don't feel it is here, and for the price, I think it's the weak link in the 550's chain.

The 550 is a very good computer, but it isn't perfect. Are touch screens the way forward now that computers can do so much? I'll be very interested to see what comes next from Garmin in this product tier.

The Judge is aimed to provide aggressive gravity-focused riders with the maximum grip, no matter what the trail hallmarks, and just looking at the Judge’s aggressive and oversized tread pattern made us eager to search for the grip limit on our most demanding test tracks. It's also an option worth considering for trail MTB riders looking for maximum grip and rear wheel security.

Design

The Judge is available in WTB’s ‘Tough’ and 'Light' sidewall casing options. Essentially, it is a dual ply casing made up of two 60tpi layers. Our Tough test tyre topped the scales at a hefty 1381g (but lighter than WTB’s claimed 1427g).

The tread pattern is made up of seriously chunky side knobs, which are claimed to enthusiastically cut the dirt in every direction across a wide range of riding conditions. These are paired with centerline knob companions that alternate between long and wide with the aim of balancing rolling speed and braking traction. Interestingly, when inflated, the overall tyre shape looks more squared off than most, which in practice, with its rear-specific focus, makes total sense for the rear wheels' less profound lean angle during cornering when compared to the front. Measuring at 2.37’’ when inflated to 20psi on our 30mm rim brings the Judge acceptably in line with WTB’s claimed 2.4’’ width.

While the tyre was originally available in two compound options, ‘High Grip’ and ‘Fast Rolling’, only High Grip seems to be available now. The Judge utilises WTB’s ‘TriTec’ rubber technology. ‘TriTec’ is a blend of three rubber compounds made up of a firmer rubber across the base of the tyre which is said to stabilise the knobs and prevent any squirming under high load forces, on top of this is medium stiffness centre knobs which offer the desired rolling speed, traction and longevity balance, while slow rebounding and softer still side knobs are said to deliver reliable grip for g-force cornering.

Like most other WTB tyres, we also see TCS tubeless technology featured here. In practice, these tyres seem to take more effort to seat than most other brands of late. It’s the first tyre in while we haven’t managed to successfully seat with only a track pump. Other than the initial ‘pop on’ struggle, they always seem to remain reliable and hold pressure well throughout testing, though.

Performance

Let’s cut to the chase, if you’re looking for a tyre to maximise your all-day rolling efficiency, then this probably isn’t the best option for you. Within the first few pedal strokes, you’re hit with rolling speeds comparable to the most sticky compound, DH-rated tyre options. There’s no avoiding that the increased weight from a chunky construction and soft rubber blend means the Judge requires more effort to reach the trailhead; however, should you encounter any technical sections or steep pitches during the climb, it does a stellar job of cutting the dirt, finding purchase and propelling you forward.

Get it up to speed on the way down and the slow-rolling nature feels less apparent. The overall feel of the dual-ply casing is excellent, and when compared to older WTB tyres, the feel is more alive and less wooden as it conforms over trail features. During aggressive, hard-charging riding, the levels of protection on offer from WTB’s casing feels really reassuring and not once during testing did we experience a full tyre bottom out, even when experimenting with lower-than-normal tyre pressures. This makes the Judge a great option for hard-charging riders or racers who rank protection highly and don’t want the added complications of tyre inserts.

The meaningful side knobs provide maximum hold when leaned over, even in damp and loose loamy terrain, and the transition from upright to the cranked over ragged edge hits the progressive sweet spot, showing no signs of unclear traction. Braking remains effective and predictable with even North Yorkshire’s claggy clay clearing the tread swiftly. Essentially, the Judge never does anything weird and remains predictably reliable on every trail surface we placed in its path.

As a result, with all of the traits and features combined, we think the Judge in this configuration should really pair well with the best electric mountain bikes, whose riders like to ride hard. The ability to bite into soft trail surfaces means climbing characteristics are exceptional, it’s hyper grippy on the way down to and the high levels of protection and willingness to slow down will suit the heavier bike. So far, the Judge is showing no obvious signs of wear, so we expect it to last well too.

Verdict

The Judge may not release the right endorphins on the climbs, but the premium grip properties and high levels of protection make it a strong contender if you’re a gravity rider on the hunt for a year-round rear tyre that grips like stink and won’t flinch when you give it hell.

Apparently born from the dry and loose tyre desires of World Cup DH star Troy Brosnan, the Dissector plates up different elements from the Maxxis buffet to create a great tyre for those riders who feel a bit too gripped on the brand's Minion DHR II and Assegai. Originally designed as a rear, the Dissector works well on the front too, particularly in drier conditions and is one of the best MTB trail tyres around.

Construction

The WT (Wide Trail) carcass is proven Maxxis and while we tested the lightest single-ply Exo version, there’s a DH casing for Troy and friends, plus DD and Exo+ versions. Our 2.4in Exo test tyre rolled onto WTB and Hunt rims easily by hand, but still popped up for a secure fit with a track pump, and sizing is spot on at a fraction under 2.4in from knob to knob.

In terms of Maxxis comparison, the ramped, alternating centre tread sits somewhere between Rekon and DHR II with a significant gap to the Rekon/Aggressor shoulder strip. There’s a choice of a dual compound or triple compound MaxTerra on the Exo and Exo+ tyres, while the DD and 2 Ply DH are MaxxGrip.

Performance

Maxxis is the generally accepted performance benchmark for aggro and trail tyres and the Dissector sits very neatly into that crossover point. It’s lighter than Minion DHF and DHR in a similar size and the ramped tread rolls faster too - especially compared to the DHR so it adds immediate pep to pedalling.

While there is a momentary breath catch as you cross the centre to shoulder gap that original High Roller and High Roller II users will definitely recognise. Make the leap of traction faith though and cornering grip is decent with a controllably lazy fade into drift rather than a dramatic snap out. That soon makes chasing the sideways slip through every corner an addictive pastime, particularly as you’ll get to those corners a bit sooner and faster than you were expecting. That means it’s a great match to well planted, low slung bikes and riders who like to play with the edge of control at every opportunity. That’s on the 2.4 too, so while we’ve not tried them yet, our experience on other 2.6in Maxxis suggests they’ll be properly sideways happy.

Braking is very stable if you get carried away though and while it can’t match the ‘who put a coil fork/shock on my bike?’ damping feel of Hutchinson’s class-leading carcass, it definitely feels more planted and secure than Rekon, Forekaster or Aggressor. Obviously Exo+, DD and DH versions will add increasing amounts of surefooted, slam proofed feel as you move towards and then well past the kilo.

Verdict

If you’re riding around on Maxxis DHF, Assegai or DHR II tyres and wishing you were going a bit quicker, or want a bit more confidence than your Rekon or Forekaster tyres are providing, then here’s your answer. The Dissector boosts rolling speed and response, but still feels damped and anchored with great ‘grip to slip’ bandwidth for control surfers.

Awesome aggressive grip, zero sketchy habits and a ton of well-judged carcass and compound options mean you’ll see a Maxxis Minion DHR II fitted to more new and well-used mountain bikes than any other MTB rear tyre. It works well up front in a lot of situations too. So what are the details that make it so good and where does it work best? Slightly binary behaviour and slower roll mean it might not be the Maxxis for everyone though, and price is always an investment, but it is definitely one of the best MTB trail tyres available.

Design

The original DHR was a great tyre, but the release of the Mk II version a few years back was when back wheel Cinders really crashed the rubber ball. The big centre blocks got a little bit of High Roller (another leading Maxxis tyre model) style ramping to make it look faster, which combined with the lean-loving L-shape and split square side blocks from its big brother, the Minion DHF. Big gaps and serious sipes (central slots to allow the top of the tread to deform to the trail loads) give it a caricature ‘Swamper’ look and make sure it clears filthy conditions as well as that suggests too.

Specifications

As well as a retread, Maxxis bulked up the carcass options of all their trail/enduro tyres at the same time. A light dual-ply DD casing and a ‘silkworm’ wrapped Exo+ casing filled the middle ground between the existing ultra-heavy DH and lightweight Exo. This created a perfect rear and front combo for riders who were hitting stuff harder and harder as bikes got longer, slacker and faster and possibly had ten kilos worth of battery and motor on board too.

Sizing options expanded to cover everything between XC and Plus, and 30mm and wider rims gained a specific 2.4in WT ‘Wide Trail’ version to restore the correct profile and pliability characteristics on a broad base.

Performance

Tyres start becoming favourites by being easy to fit, and while there are always some rims that seem to be a pain, Maxxis blow up without much stress or swearing on most rims we test. The slightly stiffer Exo+ and DD options also seem to inflate easier, although they can be more of a fight to fit at first. So overall, not the dreamiest to fit, but certainly not the worst either. Unlike a lot of tyres, they blow up exactly the size they should too.

Once on, the stress is pretty much gone. Presuming you got the right carcass weight for your riding (rarely kill a tyre = Exo, regular sidewall splitter = Exo+, regular rim dinger = DD, frame-breaking, shock-blowing animal = DH), your Minion will be a component you completely forget about. It’ll handle low pressures without burping, give a great balance of traction boosting compliance, but still stay supportive when you’re really throttling it through turns. It’s damped enough to add calm and control but doesn’t feel dead and even the heavily reinforced versions aren’t so stiff they’ll hammer your feet or blow bottles out of cages. Compared to similarly tough tyres at each level, it’s an acceptable weight too.

The wide, open, block tread is similarly utterly reliable whatever the conditions. Literally from loose, kitty litter trail centre surfaces in summer to dirty Welsh woods in winter, you can go super heavy on the brakes and slam lean angles knowing that a DHR II will let you get away with more than almost any other tyre. While the softer triple compounds start to round off pretty quickly, the well-supported knobs never rip off and while we have seen some warped carcasses, that’s a badge of hardcore honour, not an indictment on the casing.

The only downside is that even with the obvious ramping, those big blocks and gaps mean it’s almost a gear slower (sorry, without a Scandinavian rolling drum lab to play with that’s the best anecdotal metric I can give you) under power than a DHF and a gear and a bit slower than a Maxxis Dissector/Aggressor. A DHF is going to slide or slip more easily if you get heavy on the brakes or torque, though, and all-round Dissector/Aggressor grip isn’t even on the same page. The amount of sensibly progressive carcass options and sizing gives Maxxis an edge over the ranges from Schwalbe and WTB and makes Hutchinson, Michelin, Specialized, Bontrager, Vee etc. look very restricted in terms of choice.

Verdict

There are very few truly fit-and-forget tyres that excel in almost every situation. The Minion DHR might not flatter fitness, but it’s certainly a tyre I know I can always trust to have my back whatever the trail is doing. Crucially, the whole range means there'll be one I could recommend to any aggressive rider without worrying they’ll be nothing but ‘totally stoked’. Shopping around should get you a better deal on price too, and even the more basic dual compound options are better than most competition.

Specialized’s Butcher Grid Trail 2Bliss Ready T9 already ranks as one of the best mountain bike trail tyres available – especially if you’re in the UK and after a high grip bargain. The Hillbilly steps things up with even more traction for sloppier, softer conditions without losing hard surface control or dragging dramatically either.

Design and construction

While the name is similar to the previous generation Specialized tyres, the Grid Trail 2Bliss Ready carcass comes from a different manufacturer. It’s the same 60tpi layup used on the most recent Butcher tyre, though, and the same soft, slow rebound ‘Gripton’ T9 compound is used here on the Hillbilly as well.

The centre/shoulder tread pattern is very different, following the classic ‘square studs with plenty of space around them’ format of most good soft conditions tyres. Specialized run alternating pairs of knobs close for a slight paddle effect, and the knob tops are siped (slotted) to allow them to reshape and spread under load.

Shoulder knobs are slightly angled in for a directional emphasis with alternate lugs getting long supporting buttresses right down the sidewall. U-shaped sipes create a ‘block in block’ effect on every other knob too, but there’s no outward splay or projection over the carcass edge.

Weight is average for a modern 2.4in ‘trail tyre’ at 1074g but at 59mm across, they’re actually closer to 2.3 than 2.4in wide. There’s also a Gravity Grid version, but that takes weight beyond 1300g in pursuit of extreme punishment survival.

Performance

If you don’t like changing tubeless tyres because of the faff and mess involved, you’ll be relieved to hear Specialized 2Bliss setup is about as easy as it gets. Not so tight onto the rim that it’s a fight, but not so loose you’re worried about it ripping off in the first turn or peeling off if you get a blowout. It runs happily at teen pressures if you really want to suck the wheel onto the ground too, but obviously bear in mind that this is a trail tyre. If you’ve got a history of rubber-ruining rim abuse, you can pick the Gravity version.

Impacts aside, the grip and control levels are well up for extreme riding. The more open, lugged tread locks into dirty, wet, and loose conditions significantly better than a ramped or flatter/tighter tread. While they don’t ‘lean outwards’ to grab carving/off-camber traction automatically the side knobs are well-supported enough to deliver the traction as soon as you tip the bars into the turn. The tread cleans super quickly even in clay conditions and when they do start to slide, it’s a very predictable, normally saveable push, rather than a sudden snap-out and dump-you situation.

The T9 rubber and underlying carcass give excellent impact damping and micro-traction too. That reduces nerves when transitioning from slop to roots/rocks or the treacherous mess of ‘who knows what’s waiting under the leaves/around the next corner' that typifies a lot of UK and northern hemisphere riding for half the year. While there’s an audible and haptic rumble on the road and you’ll lose some ground in a roll-down test, they’re certainly not so slow you’ll go home early or stop one run short on a session. If anything their ability to keep you upright where most trail tires won’t mean you’re likely to get more riding in and you’ll certainly be going faster on descents and tech sections too.

The fact they make adequate forks feel great and great forks feel amazing adds to their already excellent value in the UK at least and while they’ll shred fast if run on summer rocks, in their natural habitat wear is proving totally reasonable. We’ve had no ripped knob or unraveling/twisting carcass weirdness from our long-term Butcher tires either.

Verdict

Specialized’s Hillbilly T9 tires are a great choice if you want significant extra grip in the slop and soft conditions. The Grid Trail versions are really well-damped on harder surfaces and not a total pain to pedal either. In the UK at least they’re an absolute bargain as well.

The WTB Verdict TCS Light High Grip does what it says on the tin. Any Wilderness Trail Bikes (WTB) mountain bike tyre tagged with a TCS label is tubeless-ready. High Grip means it’s built using the company’s super-soft, Tritec triple-compound, and the ‘Light’ casing is double-ply 60Tpi with SG2 puncture protection.

The WTB Verdict can be fitted to either wheel but excels as a front-only tyre offering and is incredible hold on hardpack, loam or slippery mud. The Verdict TCS Light High Grip is packing a little extra weight compared to other light tyres in our best mountain bike trail tyres test, and it can be a little punishing, but this is a real confidence tyre, one you can push hard without it biting back.

Design and specifications

For solid clearance and predictable traction, the Verdict TCS Light High Grip employs a 2x2 centre tread. It essentially repeats the same knob shape, which is siped to increase the footprint but also chamfered on the leading edge to reduce rolling resistance. The knob depth is similar to a Maxxis Assegai, but the tread is more channelled, so the tyre offers excellent clearance and mud shedding allowing those lugs to bite even in poor conditions.

The knob profile is also replicated on the shoulder, but these are some of the deepest knobs I’ve seen and, while that would normally create some unwanted flex during hard cornering efforts, this tyre just has incredible hold. You can get up on that edge in a banked turn without the tyre doing anything weird or vague.

Like in boxing, WTB splits its range into weight categories, but don’t go thinking this Light casing isn’t going to pack a punch. The Verdict TCS Light High Grip features a 60Tpi single play casing but with SG2 protection. This is an additional nylon layer to increase pinch flat protection without adding excess weight. WTB builds a bit of texture onto the sidewall for added abrasion resistance, and that extra meat means you can run slightly lower pressure to enhance traction, while still retaining adequate sidewall stiffness and cornering stability.

The Verdict TCS Light High Grip is only offered in a single 2.5in width, but those deep edge lugs do come up to size, so you may struggle slightly with winter clearance on some suspension forks, especially if you run a mudguard.

Although the Verdict is TCS tubeless-ready, I found it can be tricky to get the bead to seat on some rim brands. I got it to go eventually, but it would often need a bit of bead lubrication and a tubeless booster pump to get it to snap into place, plus a little bit of air topping up down the line.

Performance

One of the reasons this is such a good cornering tyre is the High Grip rubber compound. It’s actually WTB’s Tritec triple compound, utilising a firm base with a medium/soft skin down the centre and a super soft edge. I measured the latter at around 50a using a durometer, but it’s also incredibly low rebound. Some soft tyres can still feel loose and unpredictable on hard surfaces, but the Verdict TCS Light High Grip feels incredibly sure-footed. It doesn’t skate around under hard loading or when you’re snapping the front of the bike into a loose turn – you don’t have to fight for the grip, it just feels solid.

It's not the quickest rolling tyre in our test, which is one of the reasons we recommend this for front-only use, but it’s a great choice for harder riding, gravity use and e-bike fitment. I’ve smashed this tyre through some pretty rocky terrain, and it’s emerged unscathed – that extra rubber on the sidewall really does a good job at protecting the tyre from abrasion. The ride feel is impressive too, helped by that low rebound rubber compound. The Verdict TCS Light High Grip never feels nervous, no matter what surface you’re riding on and, with its impressive wet weather performance, it’s a tyre you can easily run year-round.

Verdict

At 1150g for the 29x2.5in size, the WTB Verdict is not a lightweight trail tyre, but the trade-off is an illicit amount of traction, excellent pinch-flat resistance and an impressive wear rate. Hook this up with a WTB Judge Tough High Grip on the rear and you’re going to be unstoppable.

The HellKat Pro ATC is Kenda’s top-tier trail tyre, but there are two bigger siblings for gravity and enduro use. All three tyres get the same moto-x style tread, which was developed for the DH World Cup stage by the Kenda-sponsored UR Team race team, but the protection levels have been reduced and the weight cut for trail riding. This ATC version features a thinner, more resilient and lighter 120tpi casing and a dual-layer rubber compound. It comes fully tubeless-ready and is available in 27.5 and 29er sizes and two widths.

Does this make for one of the best MTB trail tyres around? Well, keep reading to find out.

Design

The three different casing structures Kenda offers are ATC, AEC and AGC. The middle letter represents the application – hence trail, enduro and gravity respectively. From a purely structural point of view, the gravity casing has an Aramid strip under the tread with an apex chafer to resist pinch flats. The light enduro tyre eliminates this chafer and the trail tyre gets some thinner nylon plies, a more resilient 120tpi casing and a weight of 902g, making it one of the lightest trail tyres in the category.

If the tread was an eight-a-side football [aka soccer] formation, it’d be 3-2-2 with a tightly spaced row of wingers. All the knobs are either siped (they have little slits in the surface) or have shallow depressions, which help them deform and spread out, enhancing traction. To add further braking stability, two of the centre lugs are co-joined and they’re also slightly lower profile than the edge lugs, so don’t flex as hard.

The tread has some pretty open channels, so clearance in mud is impressive, but there are a couple of sections where the casing is a little unprotected, so you may need to ride light in the rock gardens. I’ve not had any issues with punctures (thorn or pinch flat), but I have been running this tyre tubeless. Configuring the tyre was straightforward – the bead seated first time and the tyre didn’t require any additional air during the first outing.

Performance

Kenda employs a dual-layer rubber compound in the HellKat Pro ATC. Unlike the multi-layered compound used in the Maxxis Minion DHF 3C and Michelin Force Am2 tyres, the HellKat Pro just has hard centre knobs and a soft edge. The centre knobs wear better, accelerate quicker and offer better braking traction, while the soft edges obviously stop you coming unstuck when getting sideways in a corner. The soft rubber isn’t quite as soft as claimed though – I measured the hardness at around 55a. While this is only medium/soft, it is low-rebound, so on hardpacked trails it gives a nicely damped feel. As a front tyre, the HellKat Pro doesn’t have any bad habits; it’s stable, confidence inspiring and predictable.

On the rear it also belts along at a good lick, so if you want to get a couple of safety cranks in before a jump or to get the extra percent on the crest of a climb, this tyre isn’t going to hold you back. The only real fly in the ointment is the rear end would slip out occasionally on wet roots and didn’t quite have the same tenacity as Maxxis DHR II or WTB Judge when winching up a slippery climb. A good call if you ride hard or you’re 'are friends electric’ is to fit the AEC enduro version. You’re only looking at 100g increase, but you can easily run lower pressures with the thicker casing to enhance the grip.

There’s an obvious reason to buy the HellKat Pro ATC as it’s a lot cheaper than either the Maxxis and WTB tyres, but it matches them when it comes to performance. It doesn’t quite have the massive edge knobs of a Minion DHR II, but you can still stuff it into a turn and come out all smiles. It also covers the ground quickly and efficiently, and if the conditions are not too extreme, you could easily run this tyre all year round, saving you money and setup hassle.

Verdict

In ATC guise, the Kenda HellKat Pro is one of the lighter trail tyres on the market, so may not suit harder riding or e-bike use. It has good grip and braking traction, rolls surprisingly quickly and the moto-x style tread works in most conditions. A summer tyre you could easily run over the winter.

The original Maxxis Assegai, featured in our best mountain bike tyres round-up, was developed by DH racer Greg Minnaar, so naturally it’s available with a reinforced Double Down casing, but there are lighter Exo and Exo+ versions now available for trail riding.

The very best (and most expensive) models use the Maxxis 3C compound which is available in MaxxTerra or MaxxGrip flavours – the latter is the softer overall and the one I’d choose for the front, with the quicker rolling MaxxTerra on the rear. I’d also consider the reinforced EXO+ out back too, but with a regular EXO casing up front, but then there are so many options that you can mix and match the level of grip and reinforcement based on your ride style or the weight of the bike you’re riding.

Design and specifications

One of the prerequisites of any Maxxis trail tyre is the deep edge lugs, and the Assegai has these in spades. These big block knobs offer a predictable shoulder when stuffing the bike into a loose turn or skating down slippery off-camber.

To complement this lateral fortification, the Assegai 3C MaxxGrip EXO+ features a 3 x 2 centre tread of interlocking knobs. These are heavily chamfered for quick rolling and three are siped to create extra traction – a siped knob will splay out slightly under load creating a larger footprint on the trail. The two smaller transition knobs are not siped but they do create a sort of semi-edge and fill in this area. As a result, the tread is a little congested and in really deep mud it can struggle for purchase, but it does clear surprisingly quickly.

The Assegai is available with Maxxis EXO or EXO+ puncture protection options. Both models have medium-duty puncture protection built into the sidewall, but the EXO+ gets an extra butyl (synthetic elastomer) insert wrapped around the bead area to help protect the tyre from pinch flats and also prevent rim damage. It adds a few grams but it’s a key reinforcement to the rear tyre for e-bike and gravity use.

All Maxxis tyres are tubeless ready (TR) and I’ve found they’re some of the easiest to seat. They always go on first time and you can often inflate them and get the bead to snap into place just using a regular track pump, no matter what rim brand they’re fitted to.

This tyre is also a Wide Trail (WT), which means it’s optimised for 35mm inner width rims, adding a little more sidewall depth.

Performance

The Assegai comes in a 3C (triple) compound with either MaxxTerra (medium) or MaxxGrip (soft) option. Both tyres use a hard base rubber for stability, but with a quick rolling centre strip and then a soft rubber on the edge for grip. The MaxxGrip is super tacky, but it does show wear relatively quickly if you’re riding on dry dusty terrain, which is why I’d run the harder-wearing MaxxTerra compound on the rear and keep the MaxxGrip for the front. That way you are not literally burning rubber, which at this price is costly.

Grip levels are superb with the softer MaxxGrip tyre – it feels so surefooted and never does anything unexpected. It’s really consistent at all lean angles, even chopping and changing lines through tight singletrack. You can roost the front into a turn or lean in gradually, it works both ways. It’s a real confidence tyre that lets you push the envelope without having to pay the consequences.

It’s consistent across a range of terrain – I’ve ridden on every sort of surface from wet rocks to dusty hardpack and, apart from deep clag, it always finds grip. You can easily ride this tyre throughout the year and it works pretty good on the rear – it’s not quite as quick rolling as the Maxxis Dissector or DHR II, but it still has a good turn of speed. When cross-rutting, the traction is solid and there’s plenty of grip when winching up steep ascents.

Verdict

The Assegai is a fantastic tyre for use all year round in pretty much any condition you care to name. The only real fly in the ointment is the relatively high price, but then you are buying one of the most controlled and confidence-inspiring MTB trail/gravity tyres on the market.

The Maxxis Minion DHF MTB tyre was a game-changer when it first appeared and it’s continued to dominate the trail and hardcore front tyre market for well over a decade. A faster roll than you’d expect for the great directional and cornering grip it gives means it works both ends too. Add a wide range of carcass and compound options and if I had to pick a single (cost-no-object) tyre for every situation, it would be this one. Which is why I rate the Minion DHF as one of the best MTB trail tyres available, and it's also a great gravity option.

Design

The key to the Minion DHF’s easier roll compared to its DHR II sibling is the slightly elongated, ramped knobs, which means smaller gaps. The alternate split pair are deeply cloven front to rear too, effectively creating four smaller blade blocks that also give extra directional bite. The way those blocks can splay also partially closes what could otherwise be a grip gap over to the alternate split block and L-shaped side knobs that fan out from the shoulders. It's a side pattern so good it was moved across onto the DHR II to give the same aggressive cornering bite front and rear.

Specifications

As the DHF (and DHR II) have been around so long, they’re one of the few current top-performance tyres still available in 26in for retro riders. Maxxis has rolled out a DHF for every trend since though (including a 27.5 x 2.8in ‘Plus’ tyre), so you’re covered for almost every bike fit. The company even created a whole new WT (Wide Trail) carcass lay-up for its 2.4 and 2.6in widths, so that they shaped up correctly on rims 30mm or wider internally.

Maxxis has also expanded its casing offerings in terms of reinforcement level. The lightest option is the Exo, which is fine for XC/old school trail use; Exo+ adds a full protective wrap against cut, puncture and impact punctures for more aggressive trail/enduro use; DD is a lightweight double-ply for hardcore enduro or e-bike use; and then there are super heavyweight DH tyres if your riding is all about radical gravity runs. In contrast to many brands where performance sweet spots fall awkwardly between light and heavy-duty options, weights and ride characteristics are on point for every level too. It’s the same story with rubber compounds. The top triple compound (3C) tyres offer a MaxxTerra all-rounder mix and a super sticky, ultra grippy MaxxGrip option over a hard base for predictable behaviour and extended lifespan. If you want a relative bargain though, the basic Dual Compound tyres are a great split between cornering grip and decent rolling speed/wear life on a tough but not too heavy carcass for much less cost.

Performance

I'm lucky enough to spend most of my time on the 3C MaxxTerra version in Exo or Exo+ spec, because that comes as standard on a huge amount of test bikes. It’s also an excellent ‘context’ tyre to fit to any bike or wheel that I'm testing independently, purely because it’s basically entirely vice-free. It’s easy enough to fit to most rims and, while it’s not the simplest sealing tyre, I rarely have to abandon the floor pump in favour of a compressor to get the job done. Once inflated, it holds pressure and shape well and it’s close enough to the listed size not to make me grumble. Even the Exo version can be run at teen pressures without buckling and folding if you shunt a corner or grab a fistful of brake too hard, while the Exo+, DD and DH increase incrementally in stability and stoutness. Ride feel is appropriate for each weight/use category with a float/damping profile that flatters suspension and frame feel. As you’d hope, the WT casings are a particularly good match to currently ubiquitous 30mm internal rims, avoiding the over-stiff, numb feel that’s apparent in some other ‘stretched’ tyres.

While it looks like the centre-to-shoulder tread gap might trigger a ‘leap of faith’ lurch like the old Maxxis High Roller tyre, the DHF actually tips in really smoothly and predictably. Once you’re into the lean, you can also load it up aggressively on pretty much every surface from slippery gravel to winter slop and wet woods. There’s enough space to mean they clear mud pretty quickly, too so clogging is rarely an issue.

The longer tread blocks also mean the DHF rolls noticeably faster than the DHR II and we know a lot of people who actually run a DHF both ends for a faster, but still hard cornering combo. They are more likely to skid or slip on the back than a DHR, but no less than most other trail tyres.

While the heavier-duty DD and DH carcasses are the ones to go for if you habitually hammer tyres and wheels, the Exo and Exo + are comparatively tough in terms of pointy object and pinch punctures. They don’t rip knobs or tear sidewalls easily either, so most Minions are bald before they get binned rather than being stabbed or slashed to death. Check fresh tyres before fitting though as Maxxis does have occasional issues with warped or twisted tyres.

Verdict

Faster rolling than a DHR II, but no less grippy in turns, the Maxxis Minion DHF is still my favourite hardcore all-rounder on either end of the bike. It comes in a wide range of casing and compound options to suit all riding situations, and once you’ve found the blend that works for you, it's a fit-and-forget tyre for all reasons and seasons. Shop around for a deal, and the pricing might not be such a sting either.

The SDG Bel Air has been one of the best mountain bike saddles since the original mid-'90s versions, which introduced the concept of funky camo, cowskin and other novelty covers. The current iteration keeps a similar overall profile, but is underlined with the latest construction tech to boost the comfort even further creating a fantastic feeling, if slightly weighty, saddle. Although you only get a hint of funkiness with the alloy-railed version.

The third-generation SDG Bel Air is a lot flatter than previously. That doesn’t mean the top profile has lost its subtly raised rear S-bend profile, but it’s nowhere near as deep underneath. If you get the measuring tape out, it’s also a bit shorter than before, but there’s still enough shuffling room without falling off the front compared to the latest stub nosed setups.

The shell drops under the snout to give the deepest padding when you’re on the rivet, and the top is flattened off for easy, effective seat-angle shifting. A ‘Peri-Canal’ groove runs from front to rear, with an ‘undercut’ pressure-relieving hole hidden in the center of the nylon and glass base to protect your plumbing. The rear of the saddle kicks up in the center to keep you anchored when you’re churning a serious gear, but drops away quickly over rounded flanks for a balance of sit bone support and easy movement that worked for everyone who tried it. If you’ve been finding seated salvation in a flatter, wider 150mm+ seat, this likely won’t include you.

In terms of construction, the one-piece ATMOS ‘sonic welded’ cover still gets protective corner bumpers, which is pretty rare these days. It’s really easy to clean, and it’s survived several months of hard riding and several crashes without a scratch. The rails are polished raw where they stick out from under the nose.

The thin layer of EVA foam gives firm support over the flexible base, and the rails have a particularly narrow stance at the rear with flexible ‘free float’ anchors increasing mobility and helping reduce ‘bottoming out’ impacts. This all sets up a seat that was universally loved by the wide range of riders who’ve been using our Pace RC295 host bike, but it’s shock shrugging enough that it’ll work really well on a hardtail too.

Verdict

The latest material tech and smart profiling mean SDG’s classic saddle gets even comfier and lighter. The V3 range starts with the basic ‘steel’ railed option, but with a claimed weight of 318g, it’s definitely worth upgrading to the Lux-Alloy tested here or even the carbon railed (181g) versions if you’re worried about grams.

Specialized's mission to relieve saddle discomfort reaches a peak in the Power range. A cavernous central cutaway combines with a stubby, truncated nose, with the intention of easing pressure on your tender parts and allowing for an all-day aggressive riding position. Specialized pitches it as a road- and off-road suitable model, so let’s take a look at how that translates to off-road riding and how it measures up to the best mountain bike saddles.

Design and aesthetics

The Power Expert sits third in the Power range, above the cheaper Power Comp, (lighter but made with less durable materials), and below the Power Pro Elaston, (similar weight but with a stiffer all-carbon shell and more sophisticated cushioning), and the S-Works Power, (71g lighter, with carbon rails and shell and less padding).

One of its key ingredients is lightweight hollow titanium rails, which are relatively rare at this price point. Even though at 230g, the overall saddle weight isn’t particularly low, you could argue that the lighter rails allow the Power Expert to offset a decent level of cushioning without affecting the overall weight. (Specialized describes it as ‘level 2’ medium density cushioning). The titanium also helps reduce vibrations through the saddle too.

Performance

The Power Expert is definitely a comfortable saddle, no doubt about that. The cushioning is firm enough to feel purposeful, but thick and compliant enough to be a genuine all-day companion, even when you’re shuttling between tarmac and rough ground. The short nose and the relatively narrow tip give a gloriously free-spinning, unencumbered feeling for your legs.

Whether it would work for you as an off-road saddle depends partly on how much you like to shift position as you ride, and partly on how much you like to steer with your thighs when you’re out of the saddle on your gravel bike. It also depends on whether you like to get into a low riding position (and whether this causes you saddle discomfort).

Even though I’d cheerfully leave it on my bike if this was a stock saddle, the Power Expert’s strengths didn’t play to my own needs.

I do like to shift around as I ride, especially on trails, and the flattish profile, probably combined with the upward tilt towards the rear of the saddle, means that the Power Expert wants to keep you in one ‘right’ position. Some riders love this, and on-road or off, the uptick at the rear means you have a really secure base to power against, especially on grinding hills or sprints.

When riding gravel I don’t tend to get into the drops, apart from on the odd hairy descent, and I do like to steer with my thighs. If you’re like me, you might want to consider the Specialized Power Arc instead, which is a near cousin of the Power Expert. It shares a lot of the construction and the undercarriage-friendly cutout, but with more rounded sides for ease of movement, and a longer nose.

And speaking of variants, while Specialized describes the Power Expert as unisex, if you’re a female rider who is looking for the best women’s MTB saddle, you might consider the women-specific MIMIC version of the Power Expert it’s very similar but with a more female-friendly cutaway.

Verdict

If you’d like a secure, comfortable all-day gravel saddle – especially if you like to get low on your bike – the Specialized Power Expert should be on your shortlist. If you don’t want quite such a planted feeling consider one of its near relations such as the Power Arc.

Selle Italia’s X-LR SuperFlow saddles take the classic profile of its SLR and Flite saddles and give it a pure off-road focus, with scuff bumpers, a great shape, and a practical combination of cover materials to bring it in line with the best mountain bike saddles. Its curved profile and light padding won’t be for everyone, but for some riders it will be a fast and liberating ride. Here we’re reviewing the Ti316 model, which sits in the middle of the X-LR range.

Design and aesthetics 

The X-LR is an elegant perch, the rear wings cutting away quickly to a narrow front section and a significantly down-curved tip. The large centre cutout and the highly curved cross-section reflect its intent: it’s a minimalist saddle designed for a more aggressive, forward-tilted riding position, or for riders with a naturally forward-rotated pelvis.

The X-LR Ti316 sits on titanium rails, attached to a carbon and nylon undershell for stiffness and light weight. The cushioning is thin and firm, covered with a taut, hand-stretched cover.

The rear two-thirds of the cover is matt and moderately grippy, the front third with the sloping tip is deliberately shiny and smooth, to make it easier to get back into position when you’ve been off the saddle. Softer padding in the front section also helps the remounts.

Plastic side bumpers extend beyond the cushioning at the widest points, to protect the saddle in a crash or when it’s leaning against a rough wall. Every scrap of material on the X-LR seems to have earned its place, and there’s nothing there that doesn’t need to be.

The colour options are equally minimal, it’s black or black.

The X-LR comes in two widths. More significantly for your wallet and the weight of your bike, it also comes in three chassis materials: manganese 224g (the cheapest); titanium (tested), 176g; and carbon, 138g (the most expensive). Both the ti and carbon models have their own shock-absorbing qualities over the base version and have more durable Fibra-Tek covers.

Performance 

A narrow, curved, lightly padded saddle like the X-LR is a great advert for the benefits of getting a saddle that fits. Whereas it could have been incredibly uncomfortable, for me, my weight carried through my sit bones onto the curved edges in the right place, and the cutout was just right, even when perched slightly forward in the saddle for climbs.

Though the cushioning is thin and firm, it’s surprisingly protective when combined with the little bit of natural flex in the carbon-infused shell underneath it, and it does have the magic feeling of being super purposeful and direct when you put the power down.

The real delight was the freedom of movement. The narrow front section (36mm, compared with 47mm on the Spank Spike 160, for example) gives plenty of room for unhindered pedaling, and the curved sides and relatively smooth materials make it super-easy to let the bike move under you when you need to. That curved, shiny nose also helps maneuverability.

Verdict

Saddles are an immensely personal preference, but if you have the budget, we have no problem in suggesting the X-LR TI316. For cross-country riders in particular, it’s a great combination of lightweight, manoeuvrable form and surprising protection. Some riders would only use it for racing, few would find it ideal for long, rough, rocky days, but for others, it’s a great, fast, all-around option.

Spank wanted to make a race saddle for enduro and DH racers that was also comfortable enough for all-day training. For slower rides on the relentlessly rough ground, you might wish you had more cushioning, but otherwise, it’s a purposeful, manoeuvrable offering when compared to the best mountain bike saddles.

Design and aesthetics 

The Spike 160 is a relatively broad and flat saddle. The most race-oriented perch in the brand's four-saddle range, it has lean, low-profile cushioning that gives it a fast aesthetic. It has a generously sized pressure-relieving groove along almost the full length, which is wide and 6mm deep.

Its profile is flat front-to-back and side-to-side, so you very much feel you’re sitting ‘on’ it, with a broad taper at the rear edges which gives you side support when you’re wiggling to the side, without getting in your way. The covering is matte synthetic rubber, with light ridges for extra grip at the back and a smooth shape around the nose to help stop shorts snagging.

The Spike 160 comes in one width - effectively a medium - and the plastic underside comes in six colour options - our review sample is grey.

Reflecting its mid-range price point, the Spike 160 sits on hollow cromoly rails and a plastic base. The sides of the saddle are designed to have a little flex in them for comfort, though this is pretty subtle.

The whole saddle is constructed using a process called co-moulding, in which the skin, then the padding, then the base are put into a mould and compressed together with heat. The idea is that this gives the padding more durability versus compressing it by stretching the skin across it. Certainly, the skin and the cushioning are taut and look and feel like one uniform piece.

Performance 

Out on the trail, the Spike 160 combines a sense of robustness and security with a definite speed-oriented leanness.

You won’t forget that the cushioning is on the firm, purposeful side - firm enough to feel efficient and remind you that you’re on the trail to perform, but not so firm that you couldn’t stay out all day if you wanted to.

But it’s an easy saddle to live with, and an easy one to stay in the right position in. The cover is grippy but not too grippy, the centre groove comfortable - for my shape at least - and the broadness of the front section gives a stable grip for the legs when you’re out of the saddle. It's a comfortable enough perch when you’re riding further forward than normal while tackling steep climbs, too.

Interestingly, there was a little more propensity to snag shorts than the other saddles in our current crop, despite the ‘anti-snag’ edges. Maybe that was because of the shallow top section and slight lip between the skin and the base, but either way, it wasn’t a deal-breaker.

Verdict

Cross-country riders would look elsewhere since they’d expect a lighter weight for this amount of cushioning, and maybe wouldn’t need the breadth through the front end of the saddle. But for its intended gravity audience, the Spike 160 is a lean and efficient perch for a rider who wants to go fast.

Spank also offers a crash replacement discount for the first two years of ownership, which is a bonus considering saddles are vulnerable to damage when a bike is tumbling down a trail.

If outright speed is the name of the game, few tyres deliver like the Specialized S-Works Fast Trak T5/T7. As Specialized's best XC tyre, they utilise a Gripton T5/T7 compound, which the American brand also claims offers puncture protection, too. Despite the super low weight of 594g and thin sidewalls, the S-Works Fast Traks are well poised and deliver amazing feel and feedback on the trail thanks to the super-sticky T7 side compound and fast-rolling T5 centre tread.

We tested them in a variety of settings ranging from cross-country laps and open gravel roads to trickier and gnarlier trails.

Design

Visually, the S-Works Fast Trak has a very distinct look, something that helps it stand out among the rabble of other XC tyre options. The branding is fairly low-key, but Specialized makes no bones about its S-Works intentions, the latter taking on a red colour treatment. The 120 TPI 'S-Works' casing is designed to be super-lightweight and it is — 594g to be precise – but this does also mean it offers less puncture protection than its rivals.

The Fast Trak is what Specialized refers to as its mixed-condition XC race tyre boasting a T5/T7 dual compound. The 'T' indicates the damping rate of the rubber – the higher the number, the slower the rubber rebounds, and, as a result, the Fast Traks use T7 on the shoulder and T5 down the middle. The alternating diagonal centre line tread combines with closer-spaced intermediate and lower shoulder tread for increased traction and speed.

Performance

The Fast Traks are full of feel and communication, but you can't run the tyre pressures too low as the thin sidewalls do have a tendency to fold over or crumble under lateral cornering force. This lack of sidewall reinforcement is a concern for those who race competitively — XCO and marathon included — so you'll need to run higher-than-normal pressures for peace of mind. During my testing, I ran the pressures at 24-26psi front/rear (at 62kg) and this seemed to do the trick in terms of balancing control with speed. That said, there was some tyre bounce over choppier trails.

In terms of speed, the S-Works Fast Traks really show their mettle up the climbs and along rolling terrain – an attribute that allows you to accelerate and punch up steep kickers with absolute ease. Grip is in abundance, too, despite the tyre's somewhat narrow width (it's only available in 2.2in) and small tread blocks, the trail speed is up there with the Vittoria Mezcal and Bontrager XR2 Team Issue.

Even with slightly higher pressures, I still felt the need to nurse the tyres over rockier and rooty sections of trail for fear of piercing those delicate sidewalls.

Verdict

The Specialized S-Works Fast Trak T5/T7 is a really good tyre at a great price. It's light, fast, and supple, but the former comes at the expense of puncture protection – which is a big deal for the average rider. Nobody wants to flat during a race, which brings me to their intended use: racing. This is not a training tyre and should only be used in racing scenarios where keeping weight to a minimum and going as fast as possible is the chief concern.

On those grounds alone, the S-Works Fast Traks are hard to beat, but as a dedicated, all-round tyre capable of being used as both a training and racing option, you're better off with the Vittoria Mezcal or Bontrager XR2 Team Issue.

Maxxis is the most widely employed tyre on the mountain bike scene, spanning all disciplines ranging from downhill to enduro and cross-country. The tyre pictured here is the Taiwanese-based company's best XC tyre, the Maxxis Aspen EXO, which has been designed to roll with ease as well as grip like a limpet.

Ten-time XCO World Champion Nino Schurter swears by the reliability and performance-infused tyre compound. But just how good is it in real-world scenarios and, better yet, can it cope on the trails all-year round?

Design

The Maxxis Aspen is available in one casing structure only, EXO – a cut- and abrasion-resistant material. While it's not as durable as the brand's other casings, it's still pretty impressive at staving off punctures and the like while remaining as light as possible. The Aspen comes in three sizes (26-, 27.5- and 29-inch), three widths (2.1-, 2.25- and 2.40in), and two casings (60 and 120tpi).

The tyres pictured here are the 2.25in/120tpi model. Despite lacking the aggressive tread patterns of some of the other tyres listed in our best XC tyres guide, the pronounced shoulder knobs are ideally placed to deliver confident cornering, while the shallower center tread has been employed to foster flat-out speed. Of course, this does present a small trade-off when it comes to wet-weather performance. The tread pattern has a tendency to clog up, which means less grip in muddier conditions.

Performance

At 653g per tyre, the Maxxis Aspen EXO is one of the lightest options in the segment and you can feel it when the trail points upwards. This, in combination with the semi-aggressive tread pattern, helps get the power down at the rear – even on looser terrain types. Of course, this largely depends on conditions and the Aspens perform best in dry and loose conditions. In terms of lateral adhesion, the speed at which the Aspens corner is impressive. Lean into the first corner and the tyres bite with vigour, allowing you to push harder thanks to the pronounced shoulder knobs. I found the cornering precision quite surprising given the tread pattern, but the stickiness comes down to the shoulder knobs which deform under load as they dig into the trail surface.

In terms of durability, the Aspens can withstand trail blow after trail blow, which is a boon for aggressive riders who prefer hammering over obstacles as opposed to scything through them. As a result, the EXO sidewall protection – as mentioned above – promotes confidence through rocky singletrack. The strong sidewalls also allow for lower pressures, which unlocks even more assurance and cornering speed.

Verdict

There's a reason the Maxxis Aspen EXO is used by the world's best cross-country mountain bikers – they're fast and super-reliable. Despite lacking the pure, aggressive grip patterns of some rivals, the Aspens deliver enough bite to complement their outright speed. If that's not enough, the 120tpi/EXO casing provides the assurance to push harder without the worry of sidewall damage and punctures.

As far as the best XC tyres are concerned, Schwalbe’s reputation is difficult to dispute, having successfully dominated the Absa Cape Epic with Team Bulls for years under the leadership of five-time winner, Karl Platt.

The Racing Ralph Performance Line TwinSkin tyres pictured here might not be as light as the Evolution Line SnakeSkin-equipped version, but they still possess the same basic tyre architecture and tread pattern. While the Racing Ralph has traditionally been used as a rear tyre in cross-country and marathon racing, it can be used at the front when conditions permit. I spent time using it in front/rear configuration and came away mighty impressed by its behaviour and handling characteristics.

 Design and specification

In terms of design, Schwalbe’s unmistakable brand identity is hard to ignore. The silver Schwalbe logo takes up prominent real estate on the sidewall, while the Racing Ralph wordmark balances things out on the other end – it’s all very premium in look and feel. While it lacks the red or blue colour-coded circumference stripes of the Evolution Line (an attribute that denotes the Addix compound), it still cuts a distinctive facade.

It’s designed for cross-country racing, featuring a low-profile tread pattern down the centre and more prominent shoulder lugs on the sides. The Performance Line tyres pictured here weigh in at 770g a piece, which isn’t as light as you’d expect but the upshot is a super-strong casing and sidewall.

 Performance

As previously mentioned, it’s become popular for cross-country riders to use the Racing Ralph at the rear in combination with a Nobby Nic or Racing Ray up front. While this is a somewhat tried-and-tested configuration, the Racing Ralph is perfectly at home marshaling traction at the front. The low-profile tread pattern has been designed to improve rolling resistance and acceleration, and the shoulder lugs are perfectly placed to foster high grip levels in the corners. The impressive sidewall protection – dubbed TwinSkin TLR – adds assurance for when things get gnarly, but also allows lower pressures to further improve ride pliancy and traction.

The Racing Ralph is most at home in dry conditions, as its tread has been designed to deform around the obstacles. For a relatively light tyre, the Racing Ralphs were adept at dismissing the fast and semi-technical trails of Minley Manor with ease. There’s a suppleness to the casing that helps foster trust and communication from the front, while the paddle-like lugs help boost rear-end traction up the climbs.

Verdict 

With perhaps the exception of the Vittoria Barzo, the Schwalbe Racing Ralph is the most at home in all weather conditions and terrain types. Despite the toughness of the carcass, it's still prone to the odd puncture when riding aggressively, so caution should be taken if that’s your style. That said, it is an extremely reliable tyre and seldom disappoints – which is one of the reasons it’s praised by so many riders and testers around the world. It’s supple, communicative, fast, and grippy and will suit any rider, regardless of your skillset.

The Vittoria Barzo has a solid reputation among mountain bikers owing to attributes such as its reliability, speed and front-end assurance. While some pair it with a Mezcal at the rear, using it at both ends is the safest bet you can make – both as a racer and weekend rider. I've spent thousands of miles training and racing with this tyre and have never been let down. In fact, the Vittoria Barzos were faultless during the times I raced the technically demanding Absa Cape Epic.

The tread pattern is burlier than some of the other options in the best XC tyre space, but the Barzo still provides sterling straight-line speed. It's also got pretty decent clearing channels, so can perform well regardless of the weather and terrain — even in muddy conditions.

Design

Like the Vittoria Mezcal, the Barzo is also available in three distinct sidewall colours: tan, plain black and anthracite. Some markets, such as South Africa, also get it with a special Cape Cobra compound for enhanced puncture protection. It gets Vittoria's proven 120tpi nylon casing and can be had in the choice of TLR, TNT (pictured here), and rigid bead casings, complete with Graphene 4C compound. A Race Formulation four-compound version is also available, which boosts grip in wet, slippery conditions and is the best option if you're looking to run lower pressures.

Tyre widths are pretty comprehensive. The 29-inch version comes in widths of 2.1, 2.25, 2.35 and 2.60in, and Vittoria still caters to those who ride 26- and 27.5-inch wheels. Designed for ‘technical XC’, the Barzo features a centre tread with an alternating ridge design and progressive sipe angles to help bolster traction, while moto-style lugs comprise the shoulder section in a V-formation for cornering grip.

With a relatively open tread pattern, it clears mud with aplomb, but it's still a low-profile tyre, and you'll quickly find the limits of adhesion in dry and dusty terrain - conditions where the tyre is most at home.

Performance

The beauty of the Barzo's compound and tread pattern is its ability to excel in almost all conditions. For a fully lugged tyre, it rolls with the eagerness of a semi-slick, while still providing braking and cornering traction. It's also got pretty decent clearing channels, so performs well in muddy conditions, but it's in dry and loose conditions – hardpack trails in particular – where it really excels.

The evenly spread, siped tread does a sterling job in keeping you upright and allowing you to push harder through corners. Grip levels are predictable, so there are never any trust issues with the front end, and the tread pattern also makes for a great companion at the rear.

The bonus with this particular tyre comes in the form of exceptional sidewall protection. I'm yet to puncture using a Barzo and have probably done upwards of 6,000 miles in various guises – impressive for a 700g tyre.

Verdict

The Vittoria Barzo is one of the most complete XC tyres on the market. It's fast, grippy, and reliable and is very resistant to wear, meaning it will last you ages. As far as protection goes, the 120tpi nylon casing is supple but strong enough to ensure the sidewalls are well looked after, which provides the peace of mind satisfaction all mountain bikers crave. While there are lighter, perhaps somewhat livelier options available, the Vittoria Barzo is exceptional in all but the slipperiest conditions and is the only tyre I trust based on the thousands of trouble-free miles I've spent using them.

Few mountain bike tyre makers possess a portfolio as complete as Vittoria. The Italian company produces some of the most versatile and high-performing rubber options on the market, including the renowned Barzo, Mazza, and the Syerra downcountry tyre. And while the Barzo is often seen as the go-to – read best XC tyre – choice for many cross-country and marathon riders, the Mezcal is fast becoming as popular and for very good reason.

The tread pattern is purposely designed and similar to that of the Maxxis Aspen in that the centre section is packed with low-rolling tread and bookended by sharper, more pronounced shoulder knobs. It's a beautiful tyre, too – the tanwalls present a stylish alternative to the glut of dark-coloured models that comprise the best XC tyre space. I've been using this specific tyre for years, such is its brilliance on the dirt.

To refresh my opinion, I decided to re-test them on the loose and dusty trails of Minley Manor in the UK for a 12-hour mountain bike race.

Design

In terms of visual clout, there aren't many cross-country tyres out there that can compete on an aesthetic level with the Vittoria Mezcal. The tyre pictured here is the tanwall with a reversed-out logo treatment. It looks fantastic and provides another level of contrast to complement your mountain bike. They are also available in plain black and anthracite.

Available with the choice of TLR (pictured here), TNT, and rigid bead 120tpi nylon casings, the Mezcal benefits from Vittoria's proprietary Graphene-enhanced 4C compound. Weights vary from tyre to tyre, but the 29 x 2.1 version tips the scales at just 640g per unit – the 2.25 version we tested weighed just 682g per tyre. While sizing spans 26-, 27.5- and 29-inch, the latter is only available in widths of 2.1, 2.25 and 2.35in, which is plenty wide for modern cross-country racing.

The tread pattern is pretty densely packed with low-profile knobs in the middle and more pronounced lugs along the shoulders, which makes for an appreciably fast-rolling tyre, but the downside to this layout is the less-than-ideal mud clearance, but more on that later. The lugs are siped, which helps them spread out to foster better traction.

Performance

I put a pair of Vittoria Mezcals to the test on the dusty trails of Minley Manor in Camberley, Surrey at the Torq in your Sleep 12-hour MTB race and came away mightily impressed by the assurance and amazing levels of control they provided. The tread pattern, while low-profile and not very aggressive, managed to dismiss the dry and dusty course with relative ease. Even maintaining speed and traction on many of the off-camber and rooty corners, which I always find difficult to navigate. While there was nothing too alarming in terms of putting the sidewall protection to the test, I have used these tyres before on a couple of stage races back in South Africa and can vouch for their ability to handle the hostile, rocky, and thorny terrain.

While many cross-country riders will use the Mezcal at the rear and a Barzo up front, I've always felt confident using a front/rear Mezcal combination. It all comes down to finding the right tyre pressure. The Mezcal rewards with speed and control, allowing you to really dig the wheel into every corner without the fear of washing out. The only real downside is when things get wet, as the tread pattern can clog up quickly, negatively impacting grip and control in the process.

As far as outright performance goes, there's not much in it between the Maxxis Aspen, Barzo, and Mezcal. All three are very good at dismissing dusty and dry conditions, but when it comes to outright speed, the Mezcal is at the top of the pile. The supple casing and low-rolling resistance, coupled with its lightweight properties, mean you're always connected to the trail, which boosts confidence and cornering speed.

Verdict

There's a lot to like here and the Vittoria Mezcal range has something for all types of cross-country riders. As far as weight goes, only the Specialized S-Works Fast Trak is lighter, but that brings its own set of compromises to the equation. You can't go wrong with the Mezcal – the brand's rich heritage and detailed understanding of creating tyres tailored to specific disciplines is the real kicker here.

As a long-time user of the Vittoria Mezcal and having raced on them in myriad countries, the way they perform never ceases to amaze me. Of course, I wouldn't use them in wet conditions, but they're not the worst performers in the mud either. If you're looking for a reliable tyre that prioritises speed, look no further than the Vittoria Mezcal. It's a brilliant tyre for cross-country and marathon riding.

Schwalbe’s Rocket Ron has been one of the best XC tyres for ages, particularly as the front wheel partner to Racing Ralph. While Racing Ray has now replaced it for drier conditions, Rocket Ron is still a brilliantly versatile high-velocity tyre for front or rear use all year round. That comes at a high price and relatively high weight, though, and we’d like to mix up the compound and carcass options more.

Design and build

With its mid-height, wide-spaced, angular blocks, the Rocket Ron tread looks more like a trail tyre than a typical XC design. The shoulder knobs are bigger and more angular than most too, with sipe slots on top to allow surface deformation.

The red stripe denotes the use of Schwalbe’s hardest, fastest Addix Speed compound. The stripe is also offset to the rider's left to make it easy to check whether it’s fitted the right way round.

I tested the Super Race carcass, which is the most supple construction option in the Schwalbe arsenal. It’s only got a thin strip of puncture protection under the crown of the tread and reinforcement right against the rim edge though. Despite that, it’s still slightly heavier than the Super Ground option, which has a full wrap of puncture protection and ‘Snake Skin’ carcass strengthening. That makes it one of the heavier XC tyres around in the 29 x 2.35in size I tested, but comparable with 2.4in tyres from Vittoria, Hutchinson, Pirelli and others.

Rocket Ron also comes in a cheaper ‘Performance’ version, as well as an unprecedented range of sizes, from 20in kids' size upwards.

Performance

Having worked my way through a ton of different XC and fast trail tyre options over a number of years, it takes a lot for one to make a significant impression. Where Ron wins though, is by matching Rocket level speed to impressively tenacious grip in a wide range of conditions. The block-shaped, mid-height tread gives sharper, better supporting working edges compared to tear drop and paddle-style treads. There’s way more to work with than really low-profile ‘semi-slick’ designs too. Even with the hardest of Schwalbe’s Addix compounds, grip in wet and slippery conditions is as good, if not better, than most other race rubber too.

The real surprise is while it growls and grumbles more than slicks or low-tread tyres on tar surfaces, subtle ramping means it still rolls OK on the road. Get it into the rough and that ultra-supple Super Race carcass really comes into its own. With no big sheets of protective material in the mix, it’s free to flow and flux over roots, rocks and ripples rather than getting bounced and stalled. That lets Rocket Ron keep pace with tyres that outroll it on Tarmac, and the rougher the terrain, the more that Schwalbe Super Race advantage becomes obvious.

As well as saving energy and maintaining momentum, that compliance also gives better traction, amplifying its mechanical grip even further. The carcass is still predictable at lower pressures too, rather than suddenly folding and flopping. Even at lower pressures, it still feels alive rather than sluggish, and while the weight dulls initial acceleration compared to superlight tyres, the overall vibe is definitely high velocity.

Another surprise from testing the Super Race carcass on Rocket Ron, Racing Ray and Racing Ralph for a couple of years, and Super Race Wicked Will for a couple of months, is how survivable it is. While there’s very little protection built in, the pliable character actually seems to dodge impact and scuff damage better than Super Ground tyres. The only issue I’ve had is premature sidewall wear if used with a broader, harder type of tyre insert, such as Cush Core, but that hasn’t caused any leaking. Better survivability increases value too, as does on-site event support at most major races in the UK at least, but it’s still an expensive tyre that’s not often discounted.

Verdict

Rocket Ron has been around for a while, but updated carcass and compound tech means it’s still ahead of the game in techier, more slippery situations. The fact it gives you a grip advantage without obviously compromising speed or survivability makes it a truly standout tyre. Especially as the original Maxxis Forekaster, which used to run it very close, was replaced by a heavier, slower version. That said, I think using the slightly softer Addix SpeedGrip compound in the Super Race, not just the Super Ground models, would flatter the talent of the tread pattern even more.

Now Nobby Nic has become a more aggressive tyre, I’d love to see Rocket Ron on a Super Trail carcass for fast general use too. That’s definitely greedy though, seeing as there are already so many versions of Ron available from tiny 16in to 2.8 plus sizes. That leaves only the price to really grumble about, but at least you’re buying a genuinely exceptional tyre rather than paying more for meh.

The Pirelli Scorpion XC RC Team Edition 2.4 tyre boasts a 10 percent wider footprint than the Scorpion XC RC 2.2 but utilizes the same low and fast-rolling center block formation that transitions to wider shoulder lugs. The extra girth promises improved grip and cornering speed thanks to the ability to run super-low tyre pressure but this has done little to affect rolling performance.

The carcass construction takes on the same blueprint as the narrower XC RC tyres with a supple 120tpi casing and SmartGrip rubber compound. Like many of the best XC tyres, it can be had in two sidewall options: Lite MTB and ProWall. As the name suggests, the Lite foregoes any kind of protection to minimise weight and maximise speed, while the ProWall incorporates another layer of woven nylon at the sidewalls for extra protection against cuts and punctures. I tested the latter in various trail conditions to put the casing and tread to the test.

Design

The Pirelli Scorpion XC RC is available in one size only (29-inch) but two widths: 2.2- and 2.4in. The latter adds 50g over the lighter 2.2in tyre. On my scales, the 2.4in Scorpions weighed in at 748g a pop. The Pirelli Scorpion XC RC Team Edition 2.4 are distinguishable by way of the yellow Pirelli and Scorpion wordmark logo on the sidewalls, which double up as a distinctive and aesthetically pleasing colour play – especially when looking at the somewhat duller options out there.

The Scorpion XC RC’s tread layout has been designed to work best in dry conditions and naturally excelled when put to the test at the loose and dusty Minley Manor trails. Since that race, I’ve used them in muddier conditions and have come away mighty impressed with their all-round ability. The tyre itself has been optimised to play best with internal rim widths of 30mm but still paired well with my Bontrager Kovee Elite 23mm carbon rims.

Performance

When it came to this particular tyre design, Pirelli called upon its decades worth of experience in motocross and rally to come up with the SmartGrip compound (now been updated to its Race XC compound with Race and Sport options – Ed). The result is a tyre that benefits from both puncture resistance and all-weather grip properties. As a result, the Scorpion XC RC is pretty adept at riding in varied conditions: dry, loose and wet terrain included. While most of my testing was relegated to dry and grippy trails – conditions best suited to the tread pattern – it managed just fine in the wet and didn't clog up entirely. This, however, is obviously dependent on just how sloppy things are, but in the mild, northern hemisphere colder season conditions, it will manage just fine in the mud.

The fast-rolling centre-tread pattern delivers exceptional straight-line speed. Even up steep, punchy climbs, the Pirellis deliver – thanks to the huge traction afforded by running lower tyre pressures. The wider shoulder lugs come into their own when things get more sinuous, delivering feelsome cornering grip. Flick it into a corner and the tyre bites hard – you can feel it gripping, sometimes even hear the shoulder lugs as they fight for traction – which allows you to push harder and faster.

In fact, for a tyre as wide and heavy as the Pirelli Scorpion XC RC Team Edition 2.4, they are as responsive as lighter rubber options such as the Vittoria Mezcal and Bontrager XR2 Team Issue.

Verdict

The Pirelli Scorpion XC RC Team Edition 2.4 tyres prove that wider doesn’t necessarily have to be slower. The exceptional traction benefits afforded by running lower pressures – something that has even greater potential on wider rims – far outweigh the benefits of lighter tyres. At 748g a piece, it might not be the lightest or cheapest XC tyre on the market, but it is one of the most complete. If you’re looking to improve your cornering speed without sacrificing climbing efficiency, you can’t go wrong with the Pirelli Scorpion XC RC. That said, if the Team Edition 2.4 is too wide or heavy for your liking, the regular and lighter 2.2in version is a worthy alternative.

ODI has been a prominent player in the bike and moto grip industry for over 40 years. In fact, it was the first brand to introduce the lock-on grip, which has become a standard in the market. It's hard to imagine now, but before ODI's innovation in 1999, riders used all sorts of makeshift solutions like hairspray and metal wires to keep their grips from slipping. ODI's original lock-on grip was a true game changer, and bolt-on grips are now widely accepted as the norm in the best MTB grips.

The Dread Lock is the signature grip of old-school XC and marathon racing legend Tinker Juarez, who is still smashing out the miles in XC and ultra-distance events. For this riding style, many riders go for a foam silicone slide-on grip, such as the ESI Chunky. ODI’s version is designed to offer the same comfort and shock absorption properties but in a less fragile, easier-to-fit alternative.

Design and specifications

Like the rest of the ODI range, the Dread Lock uses their V2.1 single bolt inboard collar to attach to the bars. This is lighter and simpler than the original double version, and this design is used on the majority of quality grips out there. The end of the grip is a neatly molded TPE cap, which helps keep the grip's usable surface area high and protects the end of the bar from scrapes and crashes.

Design-wise, they are a simple-looking affair with a smooth profile and a gently contoured surface, which differs greatly from the feature-laden ODI Reflex grip we tested recently. It's an offset design, so there is more padding on the top section of the grip for improved vibration damping, with a thinner area underneath that features ergonomic finger cutouts. They use ODI’s AIRE compound, which is a foam that has similar properties to a foam silicone grip but is harder wearing while still being soft to the touch.

The Dread Lock comes in Blue, Grey, Red, Orange, Green, and the Rasta colour option which I had on test. There is only one size available, and they are 130mm long and 32mm in diameter.

Performance

I was pleasantly surprised by the ODI Dread Lock grip. I've used many sets of foam silicone grips in the past, which, although comfortable and light, have significant drawbacks, with wear and fragility on the trail being the two main issues the Dread Locks didn't suffer from. You lose a bit of feel, and trail feedback can be muted.

Generally, I prefer a narrower grip, but these didn't feel as big and bulky as I'd initially feared, partly due to them being offset so your fingers aren't stretching around the grip but also because the grip compresses a small amount when riding. For longer rides, I'll often go without gloves and found the Dread Locks to be excellent with minimal slipping and without leaving a horrible rubber feeling on your palm post-ride that can sometimes happen with soft compound grips.

The Dread Locks have a slight taper, going from higher on the outside edge down towards the brake lever, which I found comfortable. However, I couldn't get the cutouts on the grip's underside to line up in a way that suited my fingers. I'd prefer a smooth underside, but it wasn't a deal breaker as the cutouts are very shallow. The gently textured surface also felt great when riding gloveless in the wet, and while a slick grip can become slippy, thankfully, I had no such issues here.

Installation was as straightforward as you'd expect for a grip with a single clamp bolt, but make sure you use a good quality Allen key so you don't round the bolt head. A small L and R are also on the end of each grip to ensure you have them set up correctly.

Verdict

The ODI Dread Locks are great for long-distance and multi-day rides where comfort is key. The simple shape and soft-feeling foam compound make for a very comfortable setup. They are very well made, and although expensive, they have lasted well and are far more robust than a classic foam grip.

With over 40 years of experience, ODI has been in the grip game for a long time in both bike and moto, and was the first brand to launch the now standard lock-on grip back in 1999. Lock-on grips use a small Allen key fitting to bolt to your bars to ensure slip-free performance. As far as the best MTB grips go, bolt-on grips are now almost taken for granted, but the original ODI version was a true game-changer.

The brand's latest product combines the best features from a wide range of grips to create the Reflex. Like all ODI products, they are manufactured at its California HQ using high-quality, proprietary medical-grade rubber mixes to provide the ideal grip. ODI also has some eco-credentials: all the packaging is made using recycled plastic from the production process, and the longer-lasting high-grade elastomers used in the grip themselves last much longer, which helps keep down the amount that ends up in landfill.

Design and specification

The key aim with the Reflex is comfort, which ODI sets out to achieve with three different areas of the grip, all using its proprietary grip compound to offer superior damping properties and longevity.

The main upper part of the grip uses a raised section that sits under your hands, which ODI refers to as reactive padding. The lower section incorporates a wider ribbed area designed to help improve grip and lessen arm pump, which can be caused when you hold on too tightly to the bars. Lastly, a waffle section closest to the brake lever is reminiscent of an eighties BMX grip.

The idea is that it can offer the best of both worlds, plenty of cushioning and trail-taming comfort, but without the grip feeling too big or too soft, which can inhibit some trail feedback through the bars. I find that too large a grip can lead to discomfort in my fingers, especially on prolonged technical descents, but this is a personal preference.

ODI uses a single bolt collar to attach to the bars. This increases the usable grip space and leaves the bar with a nice soft end instead of a standard plastic or alloy bar end plug – ideal for preventing damage to van or garage walls when transporting or storing your bike.

The grips come in Black, Medium Blue, Grey, Army Green, Orange, Purple, Pink, Tan, and Red in two different sizes – the standard version at 33.5mm in diameter and the XL at 34.5mm. Both are 135mm in length.

Performance

I was keen to get these on my bike, as I thought they looked to offer a similar layout to my go-to, the DMR Deathgrip, which also uses a softer ribbed section close to the bar combined with a firmer section, and I was not disappointed. I had the standard 33.5mm diameter version on test in a fetching orange hue.

The waffle section closest to the brake lever is just the right size and offers a good compromise of having just enough squish without being vague feeling – as a full waffle grip can sometimes feel. The padded top section was firm and comfortable, and for me felt like it made a difference to the amount of arm pump I was getting. They also have a ribbed section on the underside which is said to offer more control on steeper descents. This isn't something I noticed particularly, but it could be beneficial on super-wet rides.

Installation was as straightforward as you'd expect for a grip with a single clamp bolt, although make sure you use a good quality Allen key to ensure you don't round the bolt head. There is also a small L and R on the end of each grip to ensure you have them set up correctly.

Verdict

I was very impressed with the ODI Reflex grips. They worked for me and improved the comfort of my trail bike, and they also have lived up to the claims of longevity, which is a tricky balance to get right. They are on the expensive side for a grip, but they are a quality item and offer genuine performance benefits for a fraction of the cost of other components. The fact that they come in a wide range of colours and the brand's use of recycled packaging materials only add to their appeal.

UK-based, rider-designed brand Gusset has a loyal following among hardcore riders who want tough kit on a budget. It has packed all their favourite control features into this new S2 grip, and it’s one of the best MTB grips, for as long as it lasts.

While Gusset does double-clamped and push-on grips, this single inside collar design is the security/convenience/comfort sweet spot for most riders. The grip is also eccentric so you get more rubber under your palm for cushioning. The diamond ‘tread’ pattern is also bigger here to add some more damping. A smaller file pattern keeps the volume low where you need the most tactile feedback under your fingers, while your tips can hook into the ribs on the underside.

The thumb area also gets extra grip if you’re hauling up on the bars or trying to flip, and two radial ribs on the outside edges to stop your hands from sliding off the ends accidentally. The lack of an outside edge clamp means you can overhang comfortably if you want though.

You can get all the same features (as well as purple and green options) in the standard S2 grip, but we tested the Extra Soft version using a very tacky VEXK3 compound. That adds serious adhesion to the already high traction feel and it’s a real help if you’re a really aggressive rider and/or you just ride a lot in cold, wet, dirty conditions. The soft compound also makes up for the lack of shock-absorbing ribbing or depth over the full grip. Obviously, the super-soft rubber will wear more quickly as a result, but we’ve not torn or tired them out so far.

Verdict

Grips are a surprisingly personal component and there is a huge range available to choose from. The more aggressive riders in our test team got on really well with the shaping and design though, and while the Extra Soft compound won’t last as long as harder-wearing rivals, we’ll be getting the same again when they do wear out. Top value pricing means regular replacement won’t blow your budget either.

Wilier Triestina released a new Rave SLR gravel bike with a renewed focus on the ever-growing gravel race scene. The first-gen Rave SLR was released back in 2021 and pitched as an on and off-road crossover, when the concept of a dedicated gravel race bike was still forward-thinking.

The original Rave SLR’s success off-road was cemented by Ivor Silk riding to victory at both the Traka 200 and Unbound the following year, but its dual-purpose aims meant the bike had its compromises.

I felt the overall application fell short when I reviewed the original Rave SLR. While I enjoyed the spritely and reactive ride, which undoubtedly contributed to the bike's racing success, it lacked the aero-optimisation and wide tyre clearance that was beginning to creep into the gravel race scene. Ultimately, Wilier’s attempt to juggle both gravel and road duties fell short, leaving the bike feeling confused and compromised, particularly when it came to gravel riding.

These days, any self-discerning gravel bike brand has to have a dedicated gravel race bike in its catalogue, and Wilier has given the second-generation Rave SLR ID2 a clear gravel racing objective. The downtube is denoted with three pixel-style emblems, an arrow, a blank space character and a smiling emoji – symbolising Wilier’s goals for the second-generation Rave. These represent aerodynamic speed, space for bigger tyre clearance and the smiley because gravel riding is meant to be fun, the spirit of gravel and all that.

To compete with the best gravel bikes, the new Rave SLR was designed in collaboration with Wilier’s gravel racers and is laser-focused on off-road races like Unbound, where we first spotted a mystery stealthed-out, aggressive-looking Wilier.

Design and aesthetics

The new Rave SLR ID2 tubing shares very few similarities with the previous Rave SLR. Most notably, besides the very green paint, is the new aero profile. Developed using CFD (Computational Fluid Dynamics)

The resulting tube shaping is claimed to reduce air resistance by 8.9 per cent. For a rider of Slik’s calibre, that equates to a 54-second saving over a 70km course based on Wilier’s own findings.

A couple of key elements have been used to achieve this. The NACA profile downtube transitions from a thinner teardrop into a wider profile to shroud the leading water bottle and smooth out airflow. The fork shares design cues from the Supersonica SLR TT bike, and dropped seatstays and a scooped-out seat tube should limit the disruption of airflow as it passes over the rear of the bike.

To further boost aerodynamics, Wilier recently launched an aero kit which consists of an aerodynamic bottle cage system. The 550ml bottles and cages combined give a smooth profile with the downtube and seat tube to reduce turbulence. The bottle and cage cost €99, so you probably don't want to be throwing these bottles away, but if you need to grab a fresh bottle mid-race, a regular-shaped bottle will also fit in the cage.

One of the selling points of the previous generation Wilier Rave SLR was its impressively low weight. The Campagnolo Ekar build I tested in 2021 was lightning-quick on climbs and reactive sprints. Despite its larger aero tubing, the new Rave SLR only adds 120g to the frame weight but will be considerably more capable at holding speed on fast flat sections. On top of that, Wilier has added additional carbon reinforcement to the chainstay to increase stiffness by a claimed 11.78 per cent.

Increasing stiffness didn’t just involve slapping some extra carbon to the stays and calling it a day either. The Wilier SLR ID2 features a size-tuned layup to maintain the same ride quality for riders across all frame sizes.

As we provided in our lab test, wider tyres are faster, so it's great to see tyre clearance has grown to 52mm, roughly 2in if you speak MTB. While that isn’t the biggest we have seen for a gravel race bike, it's certainly up there.

There's one thing I disliked about the old Rave SLR that has been carried over to the new model. The seat clamp is still unnecessarily recessed into the top tube, making it trickier to insert the seatpost than it should be. It’s far from a deal breaker, as it's not something you will be dealing with regularly.

The bike features a Press Fit bottom bracket shell and is equipped with SRAM’s UDH (Universal Derailleur Hanger). Although my bike was fitted with an electronic groupset, there is cable routing that exits through the underside of the chainstay if you prefer mechanical shifting.

Despite the proliferation of 12sp and 13sp drivetrains these days, double chainsets are still holding on as the preference of some gravel riders, so it’s worth noting that this frame is 1x only; there are no fixtures or cable routing for a front derailleur.

As it's a race bike, you’re not going to find much in the way of bikepacking fixings. There are the standard bottle cage mounts, plus eyelets for a top tube bag and under the downtube for an additional bottle or storage, but that's it.

I would like to see some internal frame storage; it's becoming increasingly common on gravel bikes, but it's a feature that is generally excluded from race bikes. Sure, it would require a little more design work and add a few grams to the frame weight, but I think the convenience of the extra secure storage is worth it, especially when you consider the potential aero penalties of taping ride essentials to your carefully crafted aero frame.

Although the new Rave SLR ID2 is visually very different with its new gravel aero profiles, Wilier hasn’t changed all that much in regards to the geometry. Most notable is an extra 10mm to the stack height, which the new aggressively shaped F-bar offsets; more on the handlebar later.

Beyond the stack height, only minor tweaks have been made to the headtube angle, chainstay and reach compared to the previous generation. This gives a far more traditional fit when compared to the longer top tube and shorter stem trend that we have seen on bikes like the Canyon Grail and Lauf Seigla.

On an aesthetic front, I felt the old bike lacked presence, but the same certainly can’t be said of the new aggressive aero profile. While Slik’s Unbound bike came in a subtle raw carbon finish, our test bike is certainly not going to fly under the radar in its eye-catching 90’s electronica paint scheme. My test bike came in the Pixel Green colourway, which incorporates fluorescent pixels of CRT screens and the laser beams of rave parties. There’s also a Neon Purple inspired by futuristic cities and underground clubs, Byte Cream that nods to the retro computers and consoles aesthetic and finally the understated Glitch Black.

Specifications

I tested the top-tier spec, which means I was treated to a full SRAM RED XPLR AXS groupset. That means the derailleur uses SRAM’s T-Type direct-mount to shift across a 10-46T 13-speed cassette. The bike comes with a 40t chainring. This is fine for general riding, but if you are serious about gravel racing, you’re probably going to want to get something with a few more teeth. It's a bit disappointing that spending almost €10,000 doesn’t get you a power meter, especially on a bike that's aimed at racing.

Miche isn’t a brand that's commonly featured on an off-the-shelf bike; Wilier has opted to keep it Italian and specced the Graff Aero 48. It’s a deep-section hookless gravel wheel aimed at gravel racing, with a 27mm internal rim diameter that's broad enough to comfortably support wider gravel tyres. They performed well during testing, although they aren’t the lightest, so there are a few hundred grams to be saved if you need it. These are fitted with Vittoria T50 tyres, but in my opinion, a set of faster-rolling T30S would have been better suited to the Rave SLR ID2’s nature.

Wilier specs its own F-Bar integrated handlebar on models at higher price points, and my bike came equipped with a suitably racey handlebar width of 37cm on the tops, flaring out to 40mm in the drops. All the flare occurs in the curve of the bar, giving the 126mm drops a comfortable inline hand position. The UCI’s handlebar width rules only apply to mass start road and cyclocross events, so these one-piece aero handlebars are still race legal in gravel and, with the hoods turned in, they promote an aggressive aero position. Cable routing is internally routed through the handlebars and continues unseen into the frame. The handlebar is available separately for an eye-watering $1000 price tag if you want to fit it to your current bike.

The full build comes in at a hair under 8kg for my size medium, which is very respectable, especially considering it's got aero tubing and it’s fitted with 48mm deep rims and 50mm tyres. For comparison, the benchmark of lightweight gravel bikes is the round-tubed and shallow rimmed Specialized S-Works Crux at 7.25kg. It's among the lightest of aero gravel bikes, coming in at not much more than 100g heavier than the Ridley ASTR RS and 300g heavier than the Cervelo Aspero-5.

Performance

The Wilier Rave SLR ID2 only has one purpose: it's a race bike, and it encourages you to ride fast. Climb aboard, and it feels as though you have a rocket between your legs. It's sharp and reactive, urging you to kick it up a gear and attack. Its unapoligetic about its singular focus and all the better for it.

As critical as I was about the old Rave, the one thing that really enamoured me about it was the instant reactivity and eagerness for acceleration. The aero upgrade, deep-section wheels and fat tyres could have easily numbed this experience; thankfully, the Rave SLR ID2 still has this explosive thrust forward when power is sent through the pedals.

Handling is extremely precise, with the short chainstay and wheelbase giving the Rave SLR ID2 a lively yet planted feel through the corners. In fact, I would go as far as saying that this is one of the best-handling bikes I have ever tested. Drill the bike through corner combinations, and it's easy to open up gaps that the wheels behind you will need to close.

What's interesting is that the Rave SLR ID2’s singular focus actually makes it a much better bike for spanning across gravel and sealed surfaces. Low weight ensures you are up to speed quickly, and the aero positioning and frame design hold speed well on flat sections.

Ride feel only tells you so much, but our own independent aero testing backs up what I felt when riding. We wind tunnel tested the Wilier Rave SLR ID2 against the top gravel race bikes, including two spicy unreleased gravel bikes from Argon18 aero gravel bike and Specialized Crux, and the Rave SLR ID2 consistently scored among the fastest bikes. If you want to delve into the numbers, check out the full results in our gravel race bike wind tunnel test.

While our rolling resistance testing has proven wider tyres are faster, and they certainly enhance cornering performance, it's worth noting that the wider tyres don’t necessarily equate to more capability. The bike is taught and even though it comes stock with 50mm Vittoria T50 tyres, there is still a lot of trail feedback translated through the bike. This was particularly noticeable when speeds picked up on rougher tracks, with a lot of vibrations communicated through the bike despite my experimentation with low pressures.

The cause could be attributed to a number of factors, so to try to isolate some of the nervousness when descending on raw surfaces, I switched the tyres to a set of Continental Terra Speed gravel tyres in a smaller 45mm size. Although the differences weren’t dramatic, the combination of a more forgiving sidewall and slightly more rounded profile made a difference to handling and I was able to corner with even more confidence. Ride quality also improved, and although the Terra Speeds I fitted were smaller, they dulled vibrations more effectively.

Changing the tyres didn’t transform it into a magic carpet ride, and the frame stiffness combined with the aggressive aero positioning makes descending on proper technical terrain an experience that demands some attention and care. Let speeds pick up on loose and chunky surfaces, and the bike will begin to feel a bit squirrely. I think it's forgivable; it's a race bike rather than a pseudo mountain bike, and if you are racing, the aero performance should outweigh the additional care needed.

Value

Wilier offers the Rave SLR ID2 in 10 different builds plus a frameset option. Pricing starts at $5,200 / £4,150 / €4,400 for the mechanical GRX 12sp bike up to the SRAM RED-equipped range-topping bike I have been testing, which costs $11,700 / £8,900 / €9,900. In between there are also GRX Di2, SRAM Rival and SRAM Force equipped bikes with either Miche Graff XL, Graff All-Road or Aero Graff Carbon 48mm wheelsets.

Is the Wilier Rave SLR ID2 good value? To put it bluntly, not really. Based on component MSRP’s, you will save money buying a complete bike, but it's a tight margin. The frameset costs around £3000 (add £800 if you want to F-Bar too) and with some shrewd deal shopping and a bit of luck, it could be possible to build up a SRAM RED/Miche Aero Graff 48 equipped Rave SLR ID2 bike cheaper than it comes from Wilier. Admittedly, you would have to factor in additional postage costs and deal with assembling the bike too. In the end, the discounts would need to be good to make the juice worth the squeeze, but let this be a reminder that it shouldn’t be assumed that an off-the-shelf bike build will be cheaper these days.

It’s worth noting that Wilier offers significantly better value than many of its gravel race bike competitors. Want to spend under five figures on a top-tier gravel race bike? You will be looking at a SRAM Force-equipped 3T Exploro RaceMax, Allied Able or Cervelo Aspero-5.

Pinarello’s latest Dogma GR can't be had for less than €14,000 complete, although it does come with a particularly flash set of Princeton Grit 4540 Evolution wheels. The Rave SLR ID2 undercuts some of the big players too, Specialized’s S-Works Crux and Cannondale’s SuperX Lab71, both with Red XPLR, are well North of the €10k mark.

There are better value bikes around. The SRAM RED equipped Lauf Siegla Ultimate that my colleague Tom tested saves a huge chunk of cash, and although it doesn't have a fancy integrated carbon handlebar, it does have a suspension fork and power meter. Trek’s Checkmate SLR 9 and Orbea Terra Race M11eLTD just scrape under the five-figure mark and both include a SRAM RED groupset, with a power meter as standard too.

Verdict

The Rave SLR ID2 hooked me on my first outing and the more I rode it, the more I loved it. It's undeniably fast, both in feel and in our independent aero testing, and the handling prowess is frankly outrageous. If you have confidence in the surface, few bikes will be able to hold the wheel of the Rave SLR ID2 through fast twisting trails. It's addictive, willing you to accelerate harder, go faster and brake later with each corner.

If you're looking for a bike that will absolutely rip the high-octane gravel racing that is seen on distances up to 200km, the Rave SLR ID2 is the tool for the job. It will cover the longer Ultra distance too, especially if you choose a supple tyre to improve comfort, but it's definitely better suited to the smoother, faster and more aggressive nature of short distance races.

To get the most out of the Rave SLR ID2 I would recommend switching out the tyres. Pairing the bike with a set of the best gravel tyres for your local conditions will greatly improve control and confidence on descents.

The Cotton TLR tyre launched at the start of March this year, and the release officially marked the moment when Specialized Cotton tyres received the tubeless treatment. Now, these are the tyres you see being raced on nearly exclusively by Specialized-sponsored teams and riders.

Around the time of the launch, we saw this model being used during Opening Weekend this year. Demi Vollering also used the 32mm version to win at Omloop, as did Franziska Koch at Paris-Roubaix. The tyres hit the ground running, and you can see them being widely used at the top level by teams like Soudal-Quickstep and Red Bull-Bora Hansgrohe.

These tyres take the well-regarded Specialized Cotton tyre platform and make it tubeless-friendly. The tyres use a 320 TPI construction, and are available in 28, 30 and 32mm sizes.

I’ve been testing them out in a 32mm width, doing general riding, training, and a road race over a few months.

Plenty of riders like the Cotton family, but at times, you hear stories of poor puncture resistance and a short shelf life from these race tyres. I’ve put in the hard yards on my home roads for months to properly test them.

If you are looking for new race tyres, have also been Cotton curious or are thinking about switching, this review should help you out.

Design and aesthetics

It seems to me from watching a few YouTube videos and picking up on bits of chat from WorldTour teams that these are the tyres that pro riders wanted: a bigger, tubeless-friendly Cotton option in short, and it seems that is now what they have.

We’ll kick off with the specs. The Cotton TLRs are tubeless-friendly and have a 320TPI construction, which should help produce the fast, supple ride quality they are famed for.

The tyres are available in new, bigger sizes: 28, 30 and 32mm, which makes them bang up to date.

The tyres use the top-level Specialized Dual GRIPTON Compound, T2/T5, and combine a smooth centre tread with the fine sidewall tread that features across most of the Specialized road tyre range.

According to Specialized, the tyres have improved puncture protection, and the new vulcanised construction reduces drag and rolling resistance by 2 watts compared to the Turbo TLR.

The casing still features cotton, but there's now a tubeless bead and 'poly cotton corespun casing' which uses a polyester core with cotton fibres. This is how the brand has married the popular cotton casing with reliable tubeless performance. You can still run them with a tube if you like, but the brand still offers the tube-specific Cotton folding tyre in a 26 and 28mm size.

Cotton tyres have always looked stylish. There's only one colour version to choose from here: the 'tan sidewall' option you see in the images, and the tyres have small red hot patch logos with 'Specialized' and 'Cotton TLR' on the tyre sidewall.

There is also some inflation information at the edge of the sidewall and two tread wear indicators, which are on the opposite side of the tyre to the hot patch.

The tyres do have a rotational direction arrow, so make sure you adhere to this, despite the very fine tread. The maximum recommended pressure for hookless rims is 73 PSI, and 50-80PSI on anything else for the 32mm size.

Overall, it all makes for a bang-up-to-date tyre that still carries a hint of old-school styling for me.

Performance

My last experience with a member of the Cotton family was with the Turbo Cotton Hell Of The North - a fast cotton, tube-specific tyre with slightly more tread that was used in races like the Tour of Flanders within the last five years.

I loved that tyre's performance, but was excited and slightly concerned about how the marriage of Cotton casing with tubeless compatibility would play out. Problematic tubeless tyres won't get far these days. Would the lightweight cotton casings mean constant sealant seepage and top-ups? I had seen these tyres with sidewall sealant applied at Opening Weekend and wanted to know if there was a trade-off for the speed. It turns out I did not need to worry; the Cotton TLR is something of a home run for Specialized.

I have tested the tyres on a pair of Roval Rapide CLX III wheels I am also reviewing, and needed to fit these tyres, switching from the stock Turbo TLR rubber.

The Rovals have a 21mm internal width front and rear, and my 32mm tyres measured up at a shade over 32mm.

Fitting the tyres was very easy on those particular wheels; the initial tubeless setup produced a fair amount of sidewall seepage, which needed cleaning up, but I was able to seat and inflate the tyres with a standard track pump, which is always nice and a good indication that the rim/tyre pairing will play nicely together.

Since that initial seepage, the tyres have behaved perfectly: zero sidewall seepage, leaking, excessive loss of pressure or any other issues. They have been fit-and-forget in this regard; full marks here when it comes to living with them.

I have used them for close to 1000 miles, tackled a local road race with them, and have picked up zero punctures or any cuts that produced sealant spray as far as I can tell. For some context, my local roads in the West Midlands, UK, are far from perfect, with plenty of rough tarmac and potholes.

On close inspection for this review, the front wheel's tyre tread is still in excellent condition, with no visible cuts or nicks to the tread or sidewall, so this is encouraging.

The rear has two small nicks and some signs of wear. I can see where I locked the back wheel up braking after a car pulled in front of me, for instance, but generally the tyres are in great condition.

I've used them for a range of road riding, and whilst these are clearly race or performance-orientated tyres, I haven't found them so fragile that training or general riding on them would be risky or a waste of money. They sit in the 'fast summer all-rounder' box for me as an amateur. It's worth making the point, however, that at times, it can be the luck of the draw with punctures; different riders will have different experiences, but I'm confident these aren't flyweight race-day-only tyres.

We haven't tested these tyres on the Silverstone rolling resistance rig or in the tunnel yet, but I'm confident they will make our next test cohort when we do another. I'm keen to see how they compare to the GP5000 variants and the Vittoria Corsa Pros.

In terms of my own experience, they have been excellent; they feel zippy, fast rolling and exciting to ride, and I can say from my own experience of riding and racing on top-end performance tyres, they feel like they comfortably belong in this bracket.

I feel totally confident cornering on them, and have enjoyed what the 32mm size has brought to the table in terms of comfort, grip and rolling resistance on my home roads (though Specialized does say the CLX III wheels are optimised for 28s)

Value

We're looking at an RRP price of $109.99 / £85 / €99 for these tyres in all three sizes, although like most things in the bike world, you may be able to find them for less online in time.

Personally, I would benchmark these, as mentioned, against the GP5000 S TR and the Vittoria Corsa Pro. If you are shopping for performance road tyres, these three, along with a few other models, dominate the conversation. Official pricing-wise, we are almost at the same price as the Corsa Pro at £90.00 / $104.99 / €95.95, for example.

In reality, the Continental and Vittoria options can be found for less than the Cotton TLR right now, though it must be said they have been on the market a lot longer.

I love riding with them, but I would be happy spending less and buying a GP5 or Corsa Pro for my own bike; what might swing it is what we find when we test these tyres for rolling resistance.

Verdict

Specialized has done an excellent job with the Cotton TLR; it has seemingly nailed the job of blending the cotton performance that has long been celebrated by riders with reliable tubeless performance. As mentioned, the tyres have behaved flawlessly for me aside from that initial setup seepage.

They look good in my opinion, and feel fantastic in use; fast, engaging and grippy. There's a hint of retro styling, in a good way, and they still make me feel like I'm riding on special tyres.

There’s been a steady change in the world of the best gravel bikes in recent years towards greater and greater emulation of mountain bikes. Bigger tyres, suspension, slacker geometry, but everything has been somewhat incremental. A hair more clearance here, a half degree more rad in the head tube there; don’t upset the market, we’ve got a good thing going on here!

Stooge, a boutique brand based in Shropshire, makes ‘beautiful bikes that stand outside of any trends or fashions, that handle wonderfully and challenge the common perception that a rigid bike is a lesser bike.’ Its bikes are quite different, and have been pushing massive tyres and progressive geometry for some years now.

I’ll admit, I’ve been a Stooge customer. I’ve drunk the Kool-Aid. I owned a beautiful blue MK4 that I smashed about the Lake District on before selling it to my far more capable colleague, Graham. As such, I was quite excited to call in, build up, and then test out the Rambler, the brand's only drop bar offering. It’s not been plain sailing, though. It’s a great bike for some things, but for others it’s decidedly flawed. It’s put a big grin on my face at times, and offers up a taste of a wonderfully juvenile ride experience, but at other times it has left me frustrated at the sheer bloody-minded contrarianism of the thing.

Design and aesthetics

You don’t have to be a bike expert to see that the Stooge Rambler is a different beast from basically every other gravel bike out there. It’s steel, which you’ll probably have guessed, but fabricated with a beautiful split top tube that curves down either side of the seat tube to become the seat stays. You might not have noticed that, though, because the fork is usually what people look at first. A chunky, twin-plate crown with sloping shoulders anchors the legs, beset with endless eyelets, that curve and taper in a deeply classique way.

It’s not suspension-corrected, either. It’s designed to be run rigid, with a super-slack 69º head angle and capacity for a humongous 2.8” tyre up front (not quite matched by 2.6” in the rear). You could run it with mudguards and still have room for 2.4” tyres, which is pretty wild, and something I may try out down the line when the weather turns.

You can’t get complete builds, so if you want one be prepared to either build it yourself or employ the help of a decent bike shop. If you live within striking distance of the New Forest, the lovely Woods Cyclery has plenty of experience, and it makes a nice weekend away if nothing else. Building it yourself, as I found, is a bit of a nightmare, and why, despite having had the frame since January 2025, it took me so long to actually get around to reviewing the thing.

It’s a drop bar bike, though you could run it with flat bars with a longer stem than is advised. SRAM is probably your best bet for inter-compatibility here, but I went with Shimano GRX, before realising that the cranks wouldn’t fit, as it has an MTB width BSA BB shell in the eccentric bottom bracket (something that allows you to run it singlespeed, if you so wish). Deore crank it is, then. You can’t fit a complete GRX brake, though, as the brake mounts are IS mount, not flat mount, so I had to opt for XT brake callipers with IS mount adapters. The wheels are 27.5”, or 650b for you roadies, a standard that is as good as dead for gravel bikes and not hugely common for MTB either, especially when the rear axle spacing is non-boost.

Basically, you need to make your life easy and do what Stooge suggests and just get a set of Hope Fortus wheels, which are good but not the lightest. I shod mine with Vittoria Mezcals, which have since been renamed the T70.

Stooge suggests choosing a size that allows you to run a 50-60mm stem, and initially that’s what I did, but then swapped to a 90mm when I found I felt just a bit too off the back of the bike; my roadie is showing, I guess.

A dropper was a must for a bike that pertains to be supremely capable on the rough stuff, topped with a Brooks Swift saddle, partially because I love Brooks saddles as they allow me to ride without padded shorts, and partially because it looks right. Actually the whole thing looks right; it’s gorgeous, and got just as many admiring comments from my riding buddies as when I turn up on the next 'worlds fastest aero bike'. Even strangers would tell me it was beautiful, which rarely ever happens.

Looks matter little, though, if it doesn’t ride well, and it does in the right context.

Performance

The clue, as I found out to the cost of my knees, is in the name. This is a bike predisposed to ambling. Smell the flowers, enjoy the view, take a photo, take your time. It is not, by any stretch of the imagination, a fast bike, and as such, it required a bit of mental recalibration. I took it on a speedy gravel group ride one evening, involving a fair bit of elevation, and got home feeling like I must be very fatigued, as I simply couldn’t keep up. Dropped like a stone on every climb. I got the scales out, out of curiosity:

15.12kg.

Fifteen! That’s as-ridden, with a frame bag of spares (a small multi-tool, a small mini-pump, a TPU tube, a tubeless plug, and some plastic levers), half an un-drunk water bottle, and a computer, but even so, fifteen kilograms in bike terms means it weighs the same as the USS Enterprise. The wheels aren’t all that light, but it’s by no means a heavy build. Yes, it has a leather saddle, but it also has carbon bars, titanium bottle cages, and I even swapped out as many of the 3,000 M5 boss bolts to titanium ones as I could. That’s like riding a Crux with a second Crux on your back. Hell, it’s more than some e-bikes now, and it really does slow you down uphill. This only matters if you’re gasping trying to keep up with your usual group ride, but even if you’re not, it makes life harder if you live somewhere lumpy.

Loaded up with an off-road tour’s worth of stuff, the additional weight of the bike makes up a smaller proportion of the overall system weight, but it is worth bearing in mind that this is still bulk you’re going to be shipping up hill and down dale regardless of pace.

The weight also has impacts outside of climbs. On singletrack, it felt rather cumbersome, though I will admit I am used to much more road-like front ends, but I put this down to a combo of the bulk of the thing and the 69º head angle.

It is, to all intents and purposes, a mountain bike, but lacks the agility. However, on some terrain, it absolutely shines. Genuine off-road rambling is a delight. A jaunt to the woods to pick wild garlic was joyous, and any time I pointed it downhill, on or off-road, I was left beaming like an eight-year-old. It is absurdly stable, whatever the surface, and on flowing open corners, you can hit them at warp speed. I even managed to pick up a top ten on a popular road descent, mostly because I could drop the saddle and stay in a supertuck with absolute confidence. I do think fitting a slightly longer stem than was advised made it grip a little better at the front end, but that is going to be a personal fit issue. It’s doing the bike a disservice to simply distil it down to a ‘modern klunker’, but of any bike I’ve ever ridden, it screams more than anything else ‘ride up a big lumpy hill just to send it back down again’, and I kind of love it for that. Did I pretend in my mind’s eye that I was hurling down the Repack course in late ‘70’s California? Of course I did.

Weirdly, I was about to type ‘you needn’t be put off by the lack of a suspension fork’, before I remembered it’s a gravel bike and that’s still very much not the norm. It actually feels like, as tyres get wider, the short-term industry flirtation with suspension doesn’t seem to have blossomed into a full romance, so in this regard it’s future-proof.

It’s a lot of bike to ramble about on, but if you measure your rides by time rather than distance, watts, calories, or some sort of suffer-based metric, it very quickly gets under your skin. It may be flawed, it may weigh a ton, but when I am on my own and not chasing a group, I haven’t had a ride on it I didn’t enjoy, whether that’s in the woods or just going to buy paint from the hardware store. If my home city of Bristol weren’t so bad for bike theft and it weren’t so clearly going to draw attention, I’d use it every day for everything.

I also ran it initially with flats before swapping to clipless gravel pedals. While it’s slow on climbs, the massive tyres and low gearing on offer with what is effectively an MTB drivetrain mean you could probably ride up the side of a building, albeit slowly. I was able to rumble over steep, rocky terrain that I have often found myself walking up on less.

Value

Normally, in this bit, I compare X option to Y option, but there really isn’t anything comparable to compare the rambler to. For £800, a figure itself that shows it’s based on what the brand thinks it’s worth rather than £799.99 to trick you, you get a steel frame that can ride over almost any terrain. You can run it drop bar or flat bar, you can fit a rack, a full frame bag, you could run it fixed if you’re a moron, or singlespeed if you just need your head examined in a good way. You can run a pannier rack, you can run mudguards AND still have capacity to fit mega tyres. It can sort of do whatever you want it to off-road, other than go fast.

I would say part of the fun, if you can call realising yet another part won’t fit because of some needlessly contrarian design decisions, fun, is in the building of the thing. Much like the Fairlights I’ve ridden, it’s a delight to work on, once everything is in order. External everything, big bolts, threaded bottom bracket. It’s utilitarian, and all the better for it, and despite the massive weight of the thing, I think it’s pretty good value for £800 if it fits your use case.

Verdict

It’s hard for me to overlook the sheer mass of the thing. It really does hamstring the ride feel for the kind of gravel riding I do, and it makes singletrack a bit of a battle. It’s not aero, it’s been a nightmare to put together with quite backwards-thinking standards, it’s so close to being a mountain bike that you should probably just get a mountain bike…and yet I love it, that’s the mad thing.

Before I spent my time testing aero bikes and deliberating on the advantages and disadvantages of aerodynamic tyres, I used to spend a significant portion of my riding time essentially messing about. I’d ride up Lake District passes on a late ‘80’s Specialized Rockhopper with a saddlebag of sandwiches for the joy of the endeavour. I rode truly horrendous fixed-gear gravel bikes and ancient tandems. I even made myself a cantilever-brake, downtube shifter touring bike and rode it halfway down France.

In fact, my happiest memory on a bike was riding through the woods in Sweden on a beat-up town bike with a coaster brake. None of these bikes was terribly good by any measurable metric, but they all brought or continue to bring me immense joy, and the Rambler kinda fits into this category. Just typing this now, I want to go and ride it for a little while in the woods.

You can’t really compare it to modern gravel bikes because it’s not designed to do the same job. If you want to set an FKT, this isn’t the bike to do it on. I can absolutely see why The Woods Cyclery stocks them, though, as I think it might be the perfect bike for the New Forest, or cosplaying the pages of the Rough Stuff Fellowship Archive photobooks.

Would I change anything if I had my time again to build it? I think I’d stick a wide range 50.4 BCD double chainset on it and make it work somehow – I’ve seen it done –, and have a real crawler gear for uphill and a bigger ring for the rest of the time. I’d leave flat pedals on and fit a small front rack. I’d probably fit mudguards too, and probably some 2.25” Schwalbe G-One Allround tyres, and stop trying to treat it like MTB-minus and view it more as gravel-plus. I still might do all of these things. Maybe I’ll go all in and lace a coaster brake to the rear rim and see how quickly I can vaporise the grease inside it…

The Oakley Velo Mach road helmet has been on the market for over a year now and has created waves in that time. Developed with the Tudor Pro Cycling WorldTour team, this is Oakley’s most aerodynamic road helmet.

Oakley says it was ‘designed for real-world riding positions and sprint stage dominance’ and its minimal venting and ‘flow conditioners’ – small fins on the helmet shell to reduce drag and increase airflow attachment – hint that it could be a competitive model at first glance, and it slots in alongside the best road helmets.

It’s a nice-looking lid too, which is always important if you're spending your own cash on kit. The Velo Mach even came out on top in our last CN Labs helmet aero test, beating the until now undisputed top dog when it comes to 'normal' fast road helmets, the Specialized Evade III (the old one, at least).

This is another very competitive road option if you are looking for a quick road helmet. Oakley offers it in two versions, a non-MIPS and a MIPS-equipped version. I’ve been riding in the non-MIPS version pretty much all year, using it for all of my riding, training, and for a road race. The non-MIPS version carries a RRP of £255 / $310 / €300.

We have the data from our own wind tunnel test, and months of real-world testing to pair with it now. If you care about how competitive your helmet is and are on the lookout for a new one, this review should help with your decision-making.

Design and aesthetics

The Velo Mach is a part of Oakley’s ‘helmet eyewear system’; the helmet was designed to pair with the brand's Velo Kato sunglasses. A concept that makes sense, given this is an Oakley helmet.

The brand will probably say you will be fastest when wearing the helmet with a pair of Velo Kato sunglasses, but not everyone is going to wear it with them. I haven’t, and you certainly don’t have to.

Oakley sponsors the Tudor Pro Cycling squad, and the Velo Mach was designed with extensive input from the team, with the overall goal of developing the fastest helmet possible. The brand doesn't however offer up any specific aero claims regarding the helmet.

Oakley cites over 1000 wind tunnel runs as well as CFD (Computational Fluid Dynamics) in the development of the helmet. Some team riders were scanned, and wind tunnel test mannequins were then produced from these scans for more accurate testing. Incidentally, Tudor Pro Cycling has an office at the SilverStone Sports Engineering hub, the venue where we carry out our own wind tunnel testing.

The result of the collaboration is a sleek helmet which uses three front vents, one large main one, and two side vents, which also double as sunglasses storage. Externally, three vents in the middle rear of the helmet are where internal airflow exits.

Two small rubber fins protrude from either side of the helmet in the back quarter. These 'flow conditioners' reduce drag and increase airflow attachment, helping the air passing over the helmet's outer shell to stick to it for longer. It’s a feature that doesn’t feature on many helmets, and I wonder if we will see more of it in the future.

The physical shape of the Velo Mach does remind me of the Evade III in places, with its narrow profile, shallow edges, and slightly squared off rear. It certainly strikes me as being physically a little narrower than some helmets I've worn, like my go-to Scott Cadence Plus.

Details-wise, the helmet comes with a soft bag, which is always handy, and the branding is subtle enough, with two Oakley ‘O’s on either side of the helmet and an ‘Oakley’ wordmark on the rear of the helmet.

Black, white and Red colours are available, and like the Van Rysel FCR, the helmet is available in MIPS and non-MIPS versions. The MIPS version costs slightly more, and it seems slightly odd to sell two versions of the helmet. Surely, MIPS is better for everyone on paper?

I questioned this, and Oakley responded on the choice to offer two versions, explaining;

"The Velo Mach is offered both with and without MIPS (Multi-directional Impact Protection System) to give riders the freedom to choose the helmet that best fits their riding style and personal priorities. By offering both versions, we want to ensure that every cyclist can make an informed, conscious choice based on what they feel is most relevant to their riding experience, while maintaining consistent standards in design, fit, comfort, and construction across the entire Velo Mach range.”

You can get into the weeds on the effectiveness of rotational impact reduction in helmets and head injuries. No rider wants to have to test their helmets' safety capabilities in the real world; it seems Oakley is just happy to give people the choice.

As of yet, the helmet hasn't been tested by Virginia Tech, which carries out independent helmet safety testing. A Virginia Tech score is a useful gauge when shopping for helmets, and whilst it's certainly not a deal breaker, it's a useful metric when comparing and reviewing things.

Performance

I’ve had an issue-free test period with the Velo Mach. I chose to size down from my normal medium size in helmets and went with a small for my test sample. I was somewhat between sizes and only have a small head, but the small has fitted me fine.

The helmet has been perfectly comfortable for me, though of course, everyone's head is different. Having no hair, I tend to be sensitive to uncomfortable helmet interiors, but there haven’t been any. I haven’t noticed the helmet in use for a single second. I can’t say fairer than that. Its padding and overall fit are very comfortable. There are no hidden surprises here.

I’ve kept riding into the warmer weather with the helmet to test its performance in muggier, hotter temperatures here in the UK, and it receives a big tick there. That large front vent does the trick, and the helmet does well in warmer temperatures, as does the 'TurboDry' pad fabric. I haven't used it in anything over thirty degrees Celsius, but it’s certainly a stronger performer than the Fizik Kudo Aero I tested when the temperatures rise.

The sleek retention system dial and adjustable helmet straps all do the job; the Oakley adjuster dial has a nice grippy rubber coating and offers plenty of fine adjustment, although the helmet cradle isn't height adjustable. It’s all been fit and forget for me, and I was happy riding in the helmet from the off.

Glasses storage has been solid for me on a range of glasses. I personally prefer to stick my glasses behind my head if I take them off, so storage is never a key concern for me, but the angle and spacing of the two side vents seem to hold the arms of the glasses very well.

Speed-wise, the Velo Mach came out top of the 'normal' road helmets in our last CN Labs helmet aero test. By 'normal' road helmets, I mean dedicated road lids without integrated visors, or models that were road-going time-trial helmets.

The full results are behind our paywall. We pay top dollar for wind tunnel time, so do think about subscribing if you want to get stuck into the full data set, and you will get access to all of our other tests too. To sum up, though, the Velo Mach was marginally fastest at 40 and 50 km/h in our testing, beating its closest rivals, the Trek Ballista, Canyon Stinger and Evade 3 by less than a watt overall.

It's good to know I've been wearing one of the fastest road helmets around, and I felt confident I was lining up in a competitive helmet for the road race I rode last month. The difference between helmets can be a decent handful of watts, and if you want to put yourself at least in the ballpark of the quickest lids out there, the Velo Mach will get you there.

I haven't crashed in the helmet, and the fact that it is a non-MIPS version hasn't bothered me, though I think I would spend a few extra dollars and get the MIPS one if I were buying (and go for a white one, as is my taste).

Value

The Velo Mach has an RRP of £255 / $310 / €300 for the non-MIPS version I have tested; if you want the MIPS-equipped version, it will set you back £280 / $340 / €330.

That price makes the $20 cheaper (in the MIPS version) than one of its closest aero competitors and generally fast road helmet benchmark model, the Specialized S-Works Evade 3, which I think it’s fair to say is a top choice for racers buying their own helmets who want a fast model.

We are into top-tier pricing here, and a number of helmets, such as the Kask Elemento and Giro Aries Spherical, all occupy this price bracket. The helmet's padding, retention system and dial, for example, are all fairly unexciting. They all work exactly as they should, and the padding is comfortable, but there's no real luxury or super high-end feel in the Velo Mach construction for the price.

I think the draw overall is the aero performance and fit and forget user experience over any luxury details or bonus features. If you want a fast helmet and like the design, you will need to decide if the cost is worth it for you.

Verdict

The Velo Mach is a good road helmet. It's lightweight and comfortable, the styling and overall design is good, it's been developed by Oakley and a WorldTour team and in our testing it came out on top against nearly fifty other helmets.

There's not much to dislike really, and it hasn't given me a second of discomfort or any other issues in months of regular use. If you are shopping for a new performance road helmet the Velo Mach should at the very least be one of the models you consider.

The Specialized Evade 3, like those that came before it, is a very popular helmet among amateur riders and racers. It’s a common sight in amateur scenes around the world. I would bet my house on seeing at least one at my local club ride or race, and it's the first helmet you'll see in our guides to both the best road bike helmets and the best aero helmets.

The Evade 4 then has a lot to live up to, especially at $350 — $50 more than its predecessor.

Despite most aero helmet manufacturers persistently seeking aerodynamic improvements, Specialized has, for the second time in a row, updated the Evade with no claims of being ‘faster’ in this sense.

I say that, but the brand’s wind tunnel operator tells me it is actually a smidge more aerodynamic, but the improvement is less than half a watt, so not something they’ll be shouting about.

Instead, the main goal of the Evade 4 for Specialized was to retain the same aero performance while increasing ventilation and adding comfort. To this end, it claims a 2.4% improvement in cooling performance.

Design and aesthetics

The S-Works Evade 4 bears more of a resemblance to the original Evade. The opening ‘MouthPort’ at the base of the brow has been brought back, the curvature of the vents as they follow the helmet from the front to the rear is more pronounced, with the return of the diagonal vent on either flank.

The exhaust vent from the Evade 3 at the rear remains, though, and this has been widened quite significantly to create a much more squared-off, more open rear, which I'm told is inspired by the TT5.

As a result, the helmet is actually now shorter in front-to-back length than before.

It’s a millimetre wider too, which doesn’t sound like a lot, but this means the internal shape is wider, and will ease the pressure complaints that some wearers experienced on either side of their head.

At face value, it’s impressive that the brand has made it shorter, wider and more ventilated without ruining its aero performance (assuming you believe its claims, of course).

To be completely honest, I prefer the look of the older helmet, but A, who really cares what I think? I’m not exactly the authority when it comes to fashion. And B, I don’t have to look at it when I’m wearing it. I also expect I’m just being averse to change, and when it becomes ubiquitous in the WorldTour, I’ll probably change my tune.

Inside, the retention has switched to a new, lighter-weight cable that is easier to tighten, similar to the one found on Trek's Ballista and Velocis.

It continues to use MIPS Air Node, but in a slightly new ‘Air Node Pro’ version that is claimed to better manage sweat. In reality, these are simply bigger than before, no doubt helping to absorb a little bit more of the moisture.

Performance

The first thing I noticed when putting the Evade 4 on is that it fits the shape of my head better. This is entirely personal, of course, and the Evade 3 was by no means uncomfortable, but there was a small pressure point at my crown — same on the Prevail — which has now gone.

I’m also pleased it has switched to Boa for its retention dial and straps, using the new FS2 system. I like the Boa system on the Ballista and Velocis, and that rings true here too. I feel you can cinch up the helmet a few clicks tighter, comfortably, with the pressure spread more evenly around my head rather than feeling like I’m just squeezing my head from the back.

Again, none of this was particularly bad in the Evade 3, but these are small, iterative improvements between two flagship helmets. You won’t find wholesale change here.

Specialized says the reintroduction of the ‘mouth’ at the bottom of the brow was for cooling purposes, especially for riders with lots of hair, which could stifle the performance of the other vents. Interestingly, I’m told it was also a request from the brand’s upper management, who wanted to bring back the visual DNA of the previous Evades. Albeit only if it could be done “for performance reasons.”

The cooling performance has been pretty good, so clearly they made it work. I really rated this in the Evade 3, and despite a small amount of overheating on a long, slow gravel climb in a humid Girona — which I think is beyond the limit of any helmet — I remained comfortable and unbothered throughout.

Speaking of climbing, it has gained a little weight over the previous helmet. Claimed weights sit at 290g for CE (Europe) and 330g for CPSC (USA), both in size medium. That’s around 20g heavier than before, which isn’t going to trouble anyone in the grand scheme of things.

From a safety standpoint, there hasn’t been any independent testing as yet, so it’s unclear exactly where it will sit in comparison to competitors. It will have passed the relevant standard in each territory, but that is generally a low bar pass-fail result. Once independent testers at the likes of Virginia Tech have published their results, we will be sure to add them here.

The other definition of performance in an aero helmet has to be its aero drag, and while I’ve no reason to doubt Specialized’s statement that it’s on par with the older helmet, I haven’t yet verified it in our own wind tunnel tests.

The Evade 3 was among the most aerodynamic helmets we’ve tested, though, so if Specialized is right in saying this is similar, then it’ll be no slouch.

It’ll be a couple of months before we’re back in the wind tunnel, though, so for the time being, let’s just go with the completely arbitrary and utterly useless statement of “it felt fast.”

Value

I’m regularly tempted to just write ‘laugh out loud’ in this section and move on, because evaluating the value of a helmet that retails at $350 seems a little ridiculous, and it’s about as personal as the way it looks or the way it fits.

But since the POC Procen Air and Kask Elemento are $400, it’s not the most expensive helmet around. And given the popularity of the Evade 3, it’s fair to say enough people think a helmet in this ballpark is worth their hard-earned cash, and the Evade 4 is a marginally better helmet at a marginally higher price. So… same same from a pure value perspective, but having covered the launches of both of the aforementioned, I do feel $300 is a threshold that many cyclists don’t want to go beyond when buying a helmet.

Of course, you can get helmets for half the price that offer similar crash protection, or better ventilation, or similar aerodynamic performance. Where the Evade comes good, though, is its balance of all three. It’s why the Evade 3 was crowned the best overall in each of our road, gravel and aero helmets buying guides. Based on my time with the helmet and this review, I doubt it’ll be long before this takes its place there, too.

Verdict

Do I think the Evade 4 is the best road bike helmet on the market? Maybe. It’s not cheap, and I prefer how the older one looks, but there’s no denying it’s a contender.

There’s little doubt it’s aerodynamic, the ventilation is great, the comfort is top-notch, the few extra grams gained aren’t problematic, and the overall performance is excellent.

It’s a lot of cash to spend on a helmet, but if you want the best product, that’s usually how it works.

Choosing the best gravel bike tyre can be an absolute game changer for your ride experience, inspiring confidence (or not), and sometimes even making the difference between riding and walking. The Pirelli Cinturato Gravel S sits at the most aggressive end of the gravel tyre spectrum, and is unapologetically focused on traction rather than speed, designed to keep things grippy when the going gets muddy.

I tested the tyres in a 700x45c size, in what has been one of the wettest winters on record. From January through March, I’ve ridden mostly on bridleways and purpose-built trails around Bristol (known for its sticky clay mud), as well as on a 3-day bikepacking trip in the Scottish Highlands. With a decent number of miles needed to reach the trails in Bristol, the test conditions highlighted the Cinturato Gravel S’s compromises and strengths, and ultimately I found myself riding where I may have previously spun out and had to walk.

Design and Aesthetics

The Pirelli Cinturato Gravel S is the slowest rolling tyre in the gravel range, but it’s also the most aggressive in mud as one of the chunkiest gravel bike tyres around. In a gravel line-up that includes the faster rolling Cinturato Gravel H for hardpack and dry conditions, the mixed terrain Gravel M, and the race focused Gravel RC, the Gravel S is definitely the mud specialist. These are the tyres you put on for waterlogged trails in a wet winter like the one we’ve recently experienced in the UK, much like the Vittoria T90 we also tested recently.

The Gravel S features widely spaced and chunky centre knobs, paired with aggressive side lugs that almost stray into mountain bike territory. The design intent is clear; dig into soft terrain, shed mud, and provide stability when conditions are at their most slippery.

Pirelli claims the tyre prioritises “control and safety in every condition”, and that is obvious in the tyre’s hardy construction. The Speedgrip compound, shared across much of its off-road range, aims to balance grip with durability and puncture resistance, rather than chasing outright rolling speed. The reinforced TechWALL casing is built around a 60TPI fabric, adding a further layer of protection, and giving the tyre a distinctly tough feel in the hand.

The trade off here is of course weight. The 45mm version comes in at roughly 570g, which puts it on the heavier side of the scale. However, they’re not too dissimilar to the similarly rugged Vittoria Terreno T90 at 544g, or the mud-geared, but now discontinued Schwalbe G-One Ultrabite at 530g.

The tyre is tubeless-ready and hookless compatible, and I mounted the 45mm pair on a set of Hunt 4 Season Gravel wheels on my Fairlight Secan (which has clearance for 50mm on 700c wheels). In terms of look, the tyres are unapologetically rugged. The gumwalls definitely made my Secan look more sturdy workhorse than slick gravel racer, but that’s the kind of reliability I want when I’m tackling the slick clay-mud around Bristol.

Performance

Living in the city, my off-road riding usually starts with at least 30 minutes on tarmac, and so my first experience of the Gravel S was drag. The combination of large knobs and a sturdy casing creates a lag, which is a reminder that they were not designed with smooth asphalt in mind, and I was certainly reminded of this tyre choice on group rides with significant tarmac sections. Compared with faster rolling options like the Cinturato Gravel H, or something racier like the Schwalbe G-One RS, you’ll definitely notice yourself pushing harder.

But the moment I turned onto my sloppy local trails, the story changed entirely.

Over the course of testing from January through March, the Gravel S proved to be a confidence-inspiring tyre once pointed off-road. From ankle-deep mud to slick limestone climbs and even the XC loops at the trail centre, the tyres consistently delivered impressive traction, which had me riding with trust.

On flat but muddy sections, I was able to cut through quagmires that would usually have me spinning out. In one particular boggy spot, I was able to ride through so easily that I turned my bike around to ride over it a few more times in awe. The tall centre knobs dig in deep, allowing you to keep momentum where less aggressive tyres might spin out. I also found them to be very grippy when cornering, and I felt in control thanks to the pronounced shoulder knobs.

As described by Pirelli, that sense of security is arguably the Gravel S’s USP. In sloppy winter riding conditions where traction can be unpredictable, the tyres offer a boost of confidence that encouraged me to ride more aggressively – or at least, not to worry about slipping out. Descending muddy trails felt controlled, and grip was dependable even on wet limestone. The tread pattern is excellent at shedding mud, and there never seemed to be any build up.

I ran the tyres tubeless at around 35-40psi, which gave a smooth ride on rough bridleways without much trail chatter. The tubeless setup was mostly straightforward, and after warming the tyres by the radiator I was able to seat them with a tubeless pump on the first try. There was a slow leak after the initial set up and I found the tyre flat after a few days without riding, but they now seem to have sealed well and I’ve had no problems since then.

Thanks to the tough composition, the Gravel S has been impressively hardy. While the ground conditions were much more challenging in Bristol than the Highlands (mud-wise), the robust tyre held up well on chunky Scottish gravel. There have been no punctures to deal with across three months of winter riding, and the tread shows little sign of premature wear.

As with the sluggishness, weight remains another compromise with the Cinturato Gravel S. With excellent protection and grip comes a heavier overall feel, and riders chasing fast speeds should look elsewhere. But ultimately these tyres deliver exactly what they promise: confidence-inspiring grip and control in poor conditions. If you’re looking for something to see you through the winter mud, the Gravel S turns what might otherwise be a tentative ride into something far more enjoyable.

Value

At roughly the same price as similarly knobbly tyres like the Schwalbe G-One RX or WTB Resolute, the Pirelli Cinturato Gravel S sits squarely in the centre of the mud-focused gravel tyre bracket. Where it excels is its reliability. With three months of winter riding on the rubber, there were no punctures and no premature wearing. If you’ve ever tried to fix a puncture in low temps while you and your bike are caked in mud, you’ll know how important this durability is.

These are not the tyres for fast hardpack gravel or anything where you’ll spend too much of your ride on tarmac. There are far better options that roll faster, like the Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H, for example. If your winter riding means mud, unpredictable terrain and sloppy trails, the Gravel S offers a compelling balance of grip and control.

Verdict

The Pirelli Cinturato Gravel S is not a tyre for chasing speed, but that is also why it works so well. On tarmac, there’s no denying that it’s slow and sluggish. But point it towards some mud, and the story changes completely. The chunky knobs, sturdy casing and wide spacing of the tread result in excellent traction and a reassuring ride when things are unpredictable.

Throughout months of riding on clay-heavy trails, these tyres gave me a confidence boost that had me reaching for my gravel bike on the wettest of days. But as things dry out a little, I’m looking forward to putting something a little slicker back on.

I’ve been testing the Rudy Project Kelion cycling sunglasses with an ImpactX photochromic lens. They’re up there with some of the best cycling glasses I’ve used, but they’re not without their flaws. The glasses are described by the brand as being “the pinnacle of innovation and excellence in the world of sports eyewear”, and sit at the top of Rudy Project’s eyewear range.

There’s no two ways about it; with a price tag of £269 / €269 / $299, these are an expensive pair of sunglasses. However, the versatility offered by the photochromic lens - which on this Matte Green Sage pair is in the 2 Laser Black tint - means that these will happily keep your vision sharp in everything from pretty much total darkness right through to all but the brightest of sunlight.

I’ve been riding with the Kelion’s over the last month or so in Bristol in the South West of the UK through late Winter into early Spring, so have worn the glasses in a broad variety of light and weather conditions. I’ve used the glasses primarily on the road, with one particularly boggy gravel ride thrown in for good measure.

Design and Aesthetics

The Kelion’s have a pretty modern aesthetic, with a large lens that offers a lot of coverage. Used by the likes of WorldTeam Bahrain Victorious and ProTeam Flanders Baloise, these fit right in inside the peloton. Of all of the sunglasses in Rudy Project’s range, I’d say these are the most modern, with alternatives like the Propulse or Turbolence having a much more retro look about them.

Rudy Project states that the Kelion’s ideal size range is ‘medium to large’ and the fit is ‘optimised for larger faces’. Fortunately, I’m a paid up member of the moon headed community, so I found the size to work well with my melon. If you had a smaller face, I can imagine these would be pretty cumbersome.

I tested the matte green sage colourway, but the photochromic options are also available in gloss black and gloss white. The standard version that uses the mirrored RPOptics multilaser mirrored lens has a broader variety of colours available, including a very Euro fluoro pink colourway, which I really like. The finish on the frames is great, and when the lenses darken to the ‘Laser Black’ tint, they look really sleek.

Whilst I appreciate how they look in my hand, I didn’t love the way they looked on my face. They’re quite tall, and don’t wrap around quite as wide as some other brands. Now, I am a lifelong Oakley user (from the original RadarLocks through to Jawbreakers, Sutros, Encoders, and more) so I’m very used to how they look on my face, and I also have a huge head so - whilst I didn’t adore how these looked on me - your experience may differ.

The photochromic lens Rudy Project uses is one of the best on the market. Rudy Project itself describes it as being “Unbreakable” – a claim I can’t vouch for. It also says it has “Exceptional Optical Clarity” and is “Lightweight and Durable” – not claims which I can say are true. The field of vision is massive, and the lens is crisp and clear from all angles. There are two small ventilation slits along the bottom of the lens and one just above the nose piece, which aid in breathability and help prevent the lenses steaming up during hard efforts.

The frame itself is made from Rilsan, which Rudy Project describes as “an exceptional eco-sustainable material known for its strength and flexibility”. I did some research, and it turns out Rilsan is a bio-based polyamide derived from castor bean oil, and is 100% renewable. A lot of modern sunglasses are manufactured from pretty standard nylon -- even Oakley’s proprietary “O-Matter” frames boil down to basic nylon - which is not a renewable material, so it’s good to see a more eco-conscious material being used by the Italian brand.

A small thing, but the glasses come in a hard case with foam padding and a soft bag. A lot of brands have started to do away with the hard case by way of shrinkflation, so it’s great to see Rudy Project still providing one that means the glasses can be stored and transported safely. For the price, I’d expect nothing less.

Performance

The design of these shades is very well thought out. For me, one of the standout features is the fully adjustable nose pad and arms. They’re made of a bendy, rubberised material that allows for basically infinite adjustment to really dial in the fit and ensure the frames won’t slip off your face. A nice side effect of the slightly rubberised arms is how they cling to your helmet vents when stowed there, which I really liked.

Straight out the box (the lovely solid box), the glasses were intuitive to adjust and fit to my face. The bendy arms and nose piece offer enough resistance that it’s easy to dial in the fit, but aren’t slack enough to bend out of place when you put them on. After a few rides in these glasses, going back to another pair without any adjustability felt quite jarring, and I wish adjustment like this was more commonplace on premium eyewear.

One slight niggle I had with my frames was a slightly loose hinge on one side. The left had a crisp snap to it, whereas the right was a bit floppier and wouldn’t stay snapped open. Of course, when wearing the glasses, this is a non-issue, but at this price point I’d expect perfection. Fortunately, the hinges are adjustable with a small flathead screwdriver, so I was able to tighten this up and remedy the fault. However, as it’s a very small, delicate screw, that isn’t something everyone would be comfortable doing, and you shouldn’t need to on a brand new pair of premium glasses straight out the box. I’ll give Rudy Project the benefit of the doubt on this one, but I’d be interested to see if this is a recurring issue over time that comes back.

Another key feature of the frames is the Quick Change Technology. A small button just next to the hinge on each side that, when depressed, releases the lower half of the frame to make switching lenses a breeze. I’ve always hated having to bend frames to snap out the lenses on other models of sunglasses, like an Oakley Sutro for example, it always feels dangerously close to snapping something. This feature makes that problem a thing of the past and, whilst you probably won’t need to swap the photochromic lens all that often, it’s a nice touch.

I am, among other things, a sweaty man. A common issue I have with sunglasses when I’m training is that they very quickly get covered in sweat or steamed up, and I end up taking them off and storing them in my helmet. Whilst this is a bit gross, and means I have to clean my glasses a lot, it does make it easy to test the ventilation on glasses. The thin vents on these lenses actually proved pretty effective, and I didn’t find them steaming up at any point, even on slower climbs when pushing hard (circumstances that can induce steam on a lot of less well ventilated sunnies).

The photochromic lens is the hallmark feature of these shades, and I’m pleased to report that it performed exceptionally. I remember a few years ago, someone from Rudy Project explained to me that its photochromic technology is actually baked into the lenses during construction, rather than a coating applied afterwards, meaning it lasts forever and doesn’t “wear off”. I found the adjustment to happen very quickly, and I was never left squinting in the light or taking them off when it got cloudy or dark underneath tree cover. My one criticism is that on one particularly bright and sunny day (yes, we do get those in Bristol sometimes), I found about the limit of the lens and would have opted for something mirrored or darker to really deal with the brightness. In Rudy Project’s defense, there was standing water on the road (because, despite the odd sunny day, it is always raining), which added to the glare, so I think it’s fair to say a pretty exceptional circumstance.

Size and aesthetic wise, I would compare these to something like an Oakley Sutro, which happens to be my sunglasses of choice when I’m not testing. Whilst I’ve not used Oakley’s photochromic lens, they measure up very similarly to the Rudy Projects, so I think make a fair comparison. I’d say the Rudy Project’s have slightly better ventilation (unless you opt for one of the Oakley lenses with ten pretty large holes drilled along the top), and offer heaps more adjustability. However, the RRP of the Oakley Sutro Lite with a photochromic lens is £188, almost £100 cheaper than the Rudy Projects, so I would expect the additional features offered by the Rudy Projects.

Value

Now, there’s no getting away from it, these are some of the most expensive sunglasses on the market (excluding anything with Meta AI slop integrated into it). £269 is a lot of money to drop on some cycling specific shades.

However, I actually think they’re not terrible from a value perspective. They are expensive, but they have heaps of features like the adjustable arms and nose piece that you just don’t see on other brands very often.

The photochromic lens is one of the highest quality on the market, and makes the sunglasses versatile enough to count as two pairs of sunglasses in one. If you consider buying two pairs of Oakleys with a standard and a lowlight lens, the price becomes a bit easier to swallow.

I still think they’re price is at the absolute far end of what you should pay for something like this, but Rudy Project says you can use they’re ideal for road cycling, triathlon, running, AND beach volleyball, so you can spread the cost out between all four of your hobbies.

Verdict

Overall, I think these are a really great pair of sunglasses. They are packed with features that make them easy to use and versatile, and represent the real top end of the eyewear market. They’re not flawless, and if you have a smaller face you may be better off with something a bit less huge, but for a lot of people I think these would be a great purchase that covers a lot of bases.

Gravel is a spectrum. All the way from praying for grip on 28c tyres to falling asleep climbing on a full blown MTB. Important context as someone who mainly rides on the road or heads straight to that sweet sweet singletrack on an XC bike.

The best gravel bikes aim to fit neatly in the middle somewhere; confident enough to have fun, fast enough to keep you awake. So what does the Specialized Crux DSW Comp have to offer? Is it a road bike with an identity crisis? Is it enough to make the most mundane off-road riding enjoyable?

To answer these questions I took the “lightest alloy gravel bike” out on a platter of central Scotland's finest gravel and tarmac. A mixture of chunky and smooth, often wet, fast and hilly.

Design and Aesthetics

Perhaps taking aesthetic cues from the Tarmac SL4, the Crux paints a classic silhouette, with clean lines and simple tube shapes. Something I greatly appreciate.

The clean looks also carry over to the simple frame features and glorious lack of gimmicks. A round 27.2mm seatpost, 68mm BSA BB, three bottle cage mounts, 47mm tyre clearance and most importantly, no headset cable routing. Personally I believe this feature has no place on off road bikes but I understand some people want that clean look. I would love to see mudguard mounts, but I suppose we can’t expect that from a bike designed in California.

The 40c Pathfinder tyres hint at the bikes intended use. As the current trend is to go wider and wider, I would like to see that tyre clearance fully utilised out of the box but I appreciate Specialized isn't trying to make the Crux something it isn’t. After all, Specialized has the Diverge in its range for those more adventurous/chunky gravel rides.

SRAM provides the shifting and brakes with Apex XPLR mechanical, with a generous 11/46T cassette and 40T chainring. We also have 160mm rotors front and rear.

DT Swiss rims are a nice touch but you won’t see that label on the OEM hubs; a choice to keep cost down as is common practice at this more budget friendly price range.

The Comp model we have here is the only complete build of this bike, but I am glad to see a frame only option available though; something I wish more brands would offer.

The stock flared handlebars are quite wide. Quoted at 42cm they measure closer to 43cm on the tops and 47cm on the drops. This is matched with a 100mm stem for some quick handling and plenty of leverage when sprinting.

The tan wall Pathfinders go down well aesthetically and adding a couple of stainless steel bottle cages really tied the whole bike together. I can’t help but think some classic silver spokes and hubs would complete the look Specialized was going for here but the black does disappear nicely.

Specialized positions the Crux DSW as a more affordable version of the Carbon fibre Crux and indeed, the geometry is identical. To achieve a similar ride feel, Specialized makes great use of its “D’Aluisio Smartweld Technology”, a patented manufacturing technique that heavily hydroforms the tubing to create stronger welds and reduce weight. You can see it most clearly around the bottom bracket; the shell and down tube are formed from one single tube. The welds aren’t smoothed down but you’d be hard pressed to find nicer joints on another mass produced alloy bike. Something that really helps the Crux DSW stand out from its competitors. I feel Specialized has nailed this across its whole alloy lineup.

Overall the Crux DSW is quite the handsome bike. Simple shapes and lines that let the geometry and design choices speak for itself.

Performance

These Specialized Pathfinders roll nicely on the road. They aren’t the fastest according to Bicyclerollingresistance.com, but didn’t feel like I was dragging an anchor behind me. They do a great job smoothing road chatter in the 40c size on this bike. I was also able to fit a mudguard through the fork with the extra space. If you wanted to use this bike for cyclocross you’d have huge amounts of mud clearance. Similarly, off-road in dry conditions, these tyres roll very nicely. The shoulder knobs hook up well in the corners and I found the traction good on some pretty steep gravel climbs. In the wet, it's a different story; next to no grip on mud and poor braking performance, as expected for a semi slick. These are perfectly suited in most scenarios however.

The wheels are fine. Basic hubs and spokes and a decently wide rim at 24mm inner diameter. J-bend spokes are easy to replace and find in most bike shops and the cartridge bearing hubs can be serviced, so these should be a reliable workhorse wheelset for many years. However these straight gauge spokes lead to a stiff, wooden feeling while riding. I would be looking to upgrade to a nicer wheelset for an improved performance.

The Sram Apex brakes give good modulation but lacking outright power at higher speed and on steeper tracks. The hoods are a great shape though and the levers have a generous range of adjustment; useful for those with smaller hands.

One thing did bother me; the flared bar means the edge of the squared off leaver did create a pressure point on my hands. I was able to get comfortable but felt it worth noting if you suffer from hand pain.

1x gearing shines on undulating and more technical terrain where being able to shift quickly to get on top of a gear is important, but it does feel limiting at higher speeds on the road. I often found myself jumping between the 12 and 11 tooth sprockets, looking for a comfortable cadence and coasting descents I would otherwise keep pushing on, especially above 45km/h. It’s more than enough for most riding conditions but if you're looking for that edge in a race or maybe wondering if you could keep up with the local chaingang, I would be wishing for a 2x drivetrain.

This was my first time on SRAM’s mechanical double tap system. Unlike Shimano, SRAM uses a ratcheting escapement mechanism controlled by one paddle instead of two separate levers. It's been around a fair while now and I’ve had some lukewarm experience with it in the repair stand. I was surprised at first with how intuitive it was once I was riding it. It's smooth enough with a nice clack noise from the shifter. Unfortunately I have however found myself getting a little frustrated with it. Trying to shift up just one gear will often lead to a miss shift and the amount of throw required to shift multiple gears is obscene; not great for people with smaller hands.

The most confusing spec choice to me is the handlebars. I really don’t understand the trend for ultra wide, flared drop bars. While I was comfortable on the hoods, the drops just felt so far away and put me so low down that I barely used them and didn’t add anything to my confidence or my ability to take a corner.

Close your eyes and imagine descending a road bike. Now think: how are you steering around corners? Through your hips right? You're not turning the bars like you would with a car steering wheel. So at high speed on the Crux the bars added nothing to my experience and made me significantly less aerodynamic on the road. While at low speed on tight technical trails they did improve the handling but honestly I would rather just be on my mountain bike on terrain like that and I’d have way more fun.

Yes, your more adventure focused gravel bike might benefit from this. The Crux is not that; it’s a tight, nimble, aggressive bike with semi slick tyres. In my opinion the bars just don’t match what Specialized is trying to achieve here. Thankfully the standard a-head cockpit and external hoses allowed me to play around with my position and once I found a match to my road bike fit, the Crux started to make a lot more sense.

Before receiving this bike I visited one of my favourite websites, bikeinsights.com, to compare the sizing to my road bikes and was surprised to find the stack and reach figures to be almost identical. only adding 10mm of reach. So out on the road it did indeed, feel very similar and easy to get used to. The extra wheel base and slacker head angle does well to add stability off-road. In long sweeping bends and at high speed it felt very stable and predictable; a slight departure from the CX roots of the Crux. Those looking for that classic CX race bike feel may want to look elsewhere, but genuine cyclocross geometry is becoming very hard to find nowadays.

Pointing the Crux uphill felt very familiar and it certainly doesn’t feel like an over 9kg bike. With a surprising amount of stiffness from such slender chainstays, the Crux is more than happy under heavy torque. Even on very steep off road climbs I was able to keep traction on the back wheel while keeping the front firmly on the ground. For a bit of fun I took the Crux for a little max effort hill climb up to Stirling castle; a short sharp climb, ending with a cobbled section. The Crux handled this very well; I happily razzed up the tarmac and felt in control over cobbles.

Increasing the gradient and roughness of the trail will help you find the limits very quickly. The Crux is not dancing with the cool MTB kids at the school disco. However if you’re willing to push those limits, it delivers a seriously enjoyable ride, a “by the seat of your pants” experience if you dare. Maybe those MTB kids will notice...

It’s a fantastic handling bike on tarmac and unpaved roads adding an extra dimension to old routes and more mundane trails.

Value

At the time of writing you can find this bike for under £2000 but for the sake of comparison I’ll be comparing it to other bikes at full RRP.

Value is an interesting topic with this bike; £2300 puts the Crux against entry level carbon fibre framed bikes, such as the Giant Revolt Advanced 1 and Cube’s Nuroad C:62 ONE. And comparing it to other alloy bikes like the Trek checkpoint ALR, it’s significantly more expensive. So where’s the value?

Specialized has produced a very high quality frame with the DSW tubing, with excellent welds and paint work as well as those hassle free features. I feel this is what you are paying for: a high end metal bike that competes with similarly priced carbon bikes. And in the subcategory of performance gravel, I don’t see many alloy alternatives.

For me the easier headset cable routing alone is reason enough to buy the Crux over any competitor, cheaper or not.

There was one bike that stood out to me as a compelling alternative; The Fairlight Secan. It’s a fair bit more expensive, but comes with some interesting options if you’re willing to save up.

Verdict

I had a great time with the Crux. It’s an incredibly satisfying bike to ride, in the right conditions. Largely I can forgive all the issues I have with the spec for the handling characteristics alone. It suits the type of gravel riding accessible to me; long road sections to nice wide fireroad tails and green singletrack along with lesser ridden broken tarmac roads. I genuinely could see it as a replacement for a general use road bike; it's fast enough and the option to take a traffic free trail is a novelty that's not lost on me. I think that's where the Crux DSW shines.

AMS (All Mountain Style) is best known for its range of bike accessories from crank and frame protectors to straps and mudguards. These are usually jazzed up in either bright colours, designs, or collabs with the likes of Red Bull, Kriss Kyle, and even Netflix’s Stranger Things.

AMS released their first MTB grips a few years ago, the range consists of three grips, although sadly, none of them are '80s science fiction themed. The AMS grip range consists of the single-thickness, dual-pattern, and dual-density Cero, a feathery 18g Extralight foam grip, and the tapered Berm grips I have been testing.

Design and specification

The grips texture uses a micro-diamond pattern with a waffle style at the center, this is very similar to the ODI Elite Flow, a classic and my go-to MTB grips. Where they differ is that the AMS Berm have a noticeable tapered shape, measuring 29.5mm on the inside and growing to 33.9mm at the outside diameter.

The single collar design has a built-in rubber bar end so you can lean your bike without worrying about scratching anything. As with any sealed end grip, when fitting make sure the handlebar is all the way to the end of the grip before tightening the collar.

AMS has loads of colour options available, our review grips are the Red Camo version, but there is also Blue Camo, White Camo, Orange Camo, Yellow Camo, Green, a rather unpleasant brownish Gum, and plain old match-everything Black.

Performance

Some riders will be immediately drawn to the tapered shape, although there is only a 3.6mm difference in the diameter between the inside clamp end and the outside; it's a noticeable taper both visually and in hand. I found the inside to feel quite narrow although that will appeal to riders with smaller hands.

As previously mentioned the grips design is very similar to one of my favorite grips so I have no complaints there. I did find the texture of the surface to be quite hard which doesn't lend itself well to gloveless riding, especially if you're prone to sweaty palms. The harder compound should mean they last longer though and my test samples are showing zero wear.

The Berm’s give little in the way of damping due to their thinner profile, this ensures a solid bar feel and tactile trail feedback but on longer rides can lead to tired hands.

Verdict

If you have small hands, like a tapered shape, and want a very direct bar feel you will really like the AMS Berm grips. Personally I would like a little more dampening for long descents and the rubber to be a tackier for gloveless grip.

Owned by downhill legend Steve Peat, Peaty’s Products has an excellent mountain bike equipment range, which includes its Monarch grips. The two grip designs share smart details, come in two sizes, and a bunch of colors. They’re packaged to be as planet-friendly as possible too, and are some of the best MTB grips I've ever tested.

Design and build

The Monarch grips come in two designs, knurled file pattern or mushroom ribbed. That only applies to the topside though as the underside of both grips has a siped bar design for finger grip and then a chevron ribbed thumb panel on the inboard section. There’s a half flange on the inboard edge, a bulged outside edge and the grips taper slightly from inside to outside.

They’re molded onto an 80 percent recycled ocean plastic core that taps securely onto the bar, locking in place with 3mm stainless steel bolted lock-rings with a slim rounded profile. The 20a durometer grip rubber is also molded onto the core asymmetrically so that it’s thicker on the rider-facing side.

Both grip designs are available in ‘Thin’ (30-32mm) or ‘Thick’ (32-34mm) and black, red, mango, turquoise and slate grey colour options. You can accessorize them with coloured lock rings anodized in black, bourbon, emerald, gold, mango, navy, punch, red, silver, slate, turquoise and violet.

Peaty’s also uses recycled and recyclable cardboard packaging (including the grip plugs which are normally plastic) with wire and paper ties on the lock ring cards rather than zip-ties.

Performance

Grips are very much a personal thing but Peaty’s consulted over a 1,000 riders (including me) about their preferred designs before testing the most popular options. They then built their own 3D printing and molding setup to prototype various designs before settling on the final two designs.

Unsurprisingly, they feel like a ‘best of’ compilation of popular designs such as DMR’s Deathgrip, PNW’s Loam built onto the tapered, offset form of Ergon. Testing them back to back though, you appreciate the extra detailing of the Monarchs. These include the extra stability of the chevron thumb pad compared to a simpler mushroom section. The extra grip and firmer feedback from the finger bars being cut into the grip rather than sitting on top of a flexy base. The half-flange, grip taper and outside lip naturally position your hand really well with a neutral wrist angle and let you know when you’re getting to the edges. Laser-etched lock rings and printed logos on the grip faces and end pieces make accurate alignment easy too.

I normally prefer an aggressive grip pattern like the knurled design, but still chose them for wet weather or any other situation when maximum feedback and grip were the priority. I was surprised how much I liked the combination of comfortable topside cushioning and precise underside finger grip of the mushroom designs though. This means they became my go-to for long, rougher rides on both my XC and trail bikes where the extra comfort noticeably reduced buzz fatigue and softened baked ground, tight fork, or stiff wheel issues.

So far, they’re lasting really well too, with no tears or splits despite a couple of crashes. The thicker ends also protect carbon bar tips as well as anything your bike falls against.

Verdict

There are load of different grip options available, but for me the Peaty’s approach of trying everything and cherry-picking the best parts of each really works. The tapered, asymmetric design means even the thin knurled grips give super clean and precise feedback in all weathers without being bruising. Alternatively, the semi-mushroom design adds noticeable comfort without diluting bar control or compromising confident grip. The compound seems a great balance of tactile and tough so far, the pricing is reasonable and Peaty’s deserve credit for thinking eco where they can.

In 2025, Fizik moved into a new category by launching a range of four premium cycle helmets. Of these, the Kudo and Kudo Aero were designed for road, gravel and XC MTB use.

It has now added the mid-priced Kyros, aimed at the same cycling categories. While its Kudo and Kudo Aero carried a premium £270 / $320 price, the Kyros knocks a whole £100 / $120 off this, making it a much more accessible road bike helmet option for a broader range of cyclists.

We’ve been riding with the Kyros both on the road and on gravel to see how it shapes up.

Design and aesthetics

The Kyros shares the overall shape of the Kudo, although Fizik has made changes to the details. Although the vent positioning is the same across the two helmets, the vents are a little smaller in the Kyros and the ribs a little wider. The transverse member across the crown of the helmet is structurally part of the EPS shell rather than a separate component, as in the Kudo, and is a little deeper than that in the Kudo. The brow vents in the Kyros are a little narrower too.

The Kyros’ shell has exposed EPS foam at its bottom, unlike the Kudo where the outer shell extends over the foam. Over time, the polystyrene can become marked and gouged where exposed, something that’s avoided with the Kudo’s wrap-around shell.

While the Kudo has the MIPS Air system, which incorporates a sliding layer underneath the helmet’s padding, the Kyros has a MIPS Evolve Core liner. This is akin to the original MIPS system, with a separate plastic liner within the helmet shell to which the helmet’s padding is attached.

Fizik has yet to send the Kyros to the Virginia Tech helmet lab, but the Kudo’s four-star rating put it mid-pack among helmets that have been tested.

The Kyros’ retainer system is similar to that of the Kudo, with height adjustment of the rear cradle and a large adjuster dial. It shares Fizik’s crown adjustment system, where red studs in the front sides of the retainer can be moved between three anchor points in the front portion of the helmet shell to alter the helmet’s internal shape and where it sits on the brow and temples.

At the rear, the two large vents also mirror the Kudo, with a central reflector which can be replaced with a light unit. But whereas the Kudo and Kudo Air are sold with the red LED light, it’s an additional cost item for the Kyros.

The Kyros’s strap design is similar to the Kudo, although it omits the reflective thread present in the Kudo. The chin straps are separate pieces attached to the plastic Y-splitters, so the height of the splitters below the ears cannot be adjusted. There’s a standard click-in buckle to the chin strap.

The Kyros has a 335g claimed weight in size L, and my helmet was spot-on. That’s almost the same as the Kudo’s weight with the light fitted.

Performance

The Kyros helmet felt comfortable on my head with minimal adjustment. While some helmets have a tendency to feel perched on my head, the Kyros sat deeper at the sides, and the rear retainer placed itself snugly under my occipital prominence.

Together, these gave a planted feel, even before I fastened the chin strap and, if I shook my head, the helmet moved with it, rather than rocking. The straps felt secure when fastened and sat close to my head, particularly the rear one. There was zero tendency to flap while riding.

I was initially sceptical that the crown adjustment system would make a significant change to the fit of the helmet. But moving the red studs between the default forward position and the furthest rearward position did change the pressure distribution, putting greater pressure on my brow. The furthest forward position was more comfortable for my head shape.

The strap splitters sat just below my ears without rubbing on them or being uncomfortable, although some riders may find that the lack of adjustability for the splitters leads to a less comfortable fit.

Airflow through the Kyros felt good, and the helmet was comfortable-to-cool in UK springtime temperatures, even on windless, low-speed gravel climbs.

I didn’t have the opportunity to wear the helmet in hotter weather. It’s possible that it would run hotter than some other helmets in the heat, although the wide double strip of transverse brow padding should help prevent sweat from dripping into the eyes.

The two side front vents are reasonably sunglasses-friendly, and the sidearms of my sunnies docked pretty easily, although I still prefer to hook the glasses in the back of my collar when not needed, Contador style.

In stronger crosswinds, there was quite a lot of noise from the helmet, which seemed to come from the wind passing over the edges of the plastic MIPS liner. This wasn’t too intrusive, though, and when riding into the wind rather than across it, it disappeared.

Value

While many cycling helmets, including Fizik’s own Kudo and Kudo Aero, pitch towards the £300 mark, the £100 lower price of the Kyros is significantly more affordable.

Although Fizik has downgraded some specs, the overall design of the Kyros retains the shape and many of the features of the Kudo. Unlike the Kudo, Fizik doesn’t make any aero claims for the Kyros, but given the similar overall shape and vent distribution, its aerodynamics could be broadly in line with the pricier helmet.

The Kyros’ £169.99 / $199.99 / €190 list price puts it in competition with helmets such as the Kask Valegro, Poc Omne Air and Specialized Propero 4, also mid-tier helmets from their respective brands that trickle down tech from their premium offerings.

Verdict

Fizik has made some smart modifications to the Kyros to lower the price relative to the Kudo, while keeping the key elements of that helmet’s design. The overall shape is similar and I reckon you’d be hard-pressed to notice any reduced airflow, while the key elements of adjustability are retained.

MIPS Core may not be as neatly integrated as MIPS Air but it doesn’t impinge on the helmet’s internals and there’s the same fit system as the Kudo, offering broad adjustability. This leads to a comfortable helmet that sat deep on my head, offering a reassuringly planted fit.

The Kyros feels like a good option for riders who are looking for Fizik’s style without the premium pricing of the Kudo.

Scorecard

The Garmin Varia RearVue 820 has taken over as the premium radar light offering from Garmin. It finally adopts the USB-C charging port after years of micro-USB, but far more than that it has massively beefed up performance across the board, making it a contender for our guide to the best bike lights. More lumens, larger detection radius, longer radar range, greater battery life, and a whole host of new features that make it possibly the most complete radar light offering on the market right now.

But that’s not to say it’s perfect. With this inflated performance comes an equally inflated price, making it the most expensive radar light on the market (without a camera, at least) by some margin. It also gate keeps certain features and limits them to specific Garmin devices over specific bluetooth connections. When paired with the right bike computer though, it is a mighty device and superb for enhancing awareness while riding out on the roads.

Design and specifications

The Garmin Varia RearVue 820 builds heavily on the footprint of the original Varia, which has been a common template for many other brand attempts at radar lights. The same quarter turn Garmin mount is present, and is the same depth as previously so will fit existing Varia mounting options. Design wise, it’s an inverse of the previous Varia, with the radar detection panel now being located at the top of the unit, while the main light is at the bottom. The charging port remains at the rear base of the unit but is now, finally, USB-C. The main control button also remains on the top of the unit. You can run the device in either orientation (light at the top or bottom) and it will still work the same.

In terms of the light itself, it comprises three separate lights. There is the main one that faces rearwards and has a maximum brightness of 100 lumens, but there are also two smaller LEDs which face out to the side to allow for greater side visibility. This light only works at 100 lumens in the Day Flash mode, while Peloton is just 8, Solid is 25, and Night Flash is 40. Radar only is also another option with no light active, while customised light modes can be created in the Varia app.

Battery life for these modes is a claimed 10 hours for Solid, 15 for Peloton and Night Flash, 24 for Day Flash, and 30 for Radar Only. With the inclusion of the side LEDs, the visibility range is 220˚, while the Day Flash light is claimed to be visible from 2 kilometres away. There is also an option to have a brake light active, which can either flash or brighten as your speed changes, but does impact the battery life.

Of course this is a radar light, and the radar has really been bolstered. Radar range is claimed to be 175m, with a 60˚ FOV (up from 40˚ and 140m). As well as detecting the speed of the approaching vehicles, it also tracks the size. Standard speed and sized vehicles register as an Orange warning, while faster or larger ones register as a Red warning. It is also able to track multiple vehicles at once and give their position relative to the rider, and can keep track of them as they maintain the same speed or move laterally.

This can all connect to a headunit or phone, via ANT+ or Bluetooth, but several of the features are Bluetooth restricted and also limited to specific Garmin headunits. An interesting discovery while testing was also that if the RearVue is connected to your phone, and you have headphones in, you will get an audio alert to cars behind without the need for any form of visual display unit.

The Varia RearVue 820 is 98.9 x 25.9 x 43.2 mm and a weight of 86g without the mount. With the mount, the weight is 123g. Also supplied are several different mounting plates for fitting behind the main mount. These account for different seatpost angles as well as shapes, be that rounded, bladed, or flat profiled. Two ladder straps are supplied to account for different seatpost depths. A USB-C to USB-C charge cable is also supplied, along with a lanyard to keep the unit attached to your seatpost if it falls off the mount.

Performance

When it comes to performance, the Garmin Varia RearVue 820 is something of a powerhouse. The 100 lumens max brightness on the day flash mode beats many of the competition when it comes to peak brightness, and therefore expected distance the light can be seen from. It’s not as high as some standalone lights such as the Lezyne Strip Drive Pro, but it is more than bright enough to be seen from well over a kilometre away out on the road.

The other big benefit of the RearVue is the side light. Rather than having an exposed side to the light to be seen from the peripherals, it instead features two small red LEDs that are mounted on the side of the unit giving a genuinely great visibility for more than 180˚. There aren’t a heap of light modes as standard, but the ones provided work well enough for all circumstances I have found myself riding in. Peloton mode is dim enough to not blind other riders but still be nicely visible, Day Flash is exceptional in bright conditions, Night Flash does not glare other road users, and the full beam modes are visible enough. There are tailored modes that can be adjusted in the Varia app as well if you want to add to that collection of modes.

The Garmin Varia app is also where you control additional features, similar to the Wahoo Trackr Radar and the Wahoo app. The brake light can be set to flash or blush when slowing down to let other road users know your speed is changing. You can also set a disruptive flash pattern to occur when a vehicle is detected behind. These are both great features, but do have a big impact on the total battery life.

24 hours is the claimed battery life for the Day Flash mode, but in reality I’ve seen closer to 10 hours on a full charge. I have had the same occur with the Wahoo radar, where the flash upon detection and brake light activates frequently and therefore drains the battery significantly faster than without these modes. The brake light also activates when you go from a downhill to an uphill, as there is a significant change in speed. It’s a useful feature, and one I always keep on, but it does impact battery life a lot. When used on radar only (not my preferred mode) or without the brake light and detection flash, the battery life is far closer to what is claimed. However, you miss out on a lot of features if you want to prioritise longer battery run times.

There is of course the star of the show, the radar itself. The RearVue has flipped the design from the previous Varia light, and most other radar lights. The bulb is at the base of the unit, rather than the top, and the radar detector occupies that space now. In reality this has no impact on aesthetics as it’s behind you, and performance wise there is nothing in the way regardless of the orientation of the light or radar detector.

The radar is an interesting one as the claimed detection range is 175m, however, it is actually further and there’s a smart way of telling. When you connect a radar light via ANT+, it can only detect cars on screen at around below ~200m, anything more than that and the vehicle shows as being right behind you on the indicator to the right of the screen. It’s an odd broadcasting flaw of radar information, so in reality, the headunit displays that the vehicle might be 20m away rather than 220m away. Once the car hits 200m, it shows on the device as being the maximum distance detected away. Only the Trek Carback has managed this before, as it has a long, yet narrow, detection range. The RearVue also has this, picking cars over 200m away consistently. However, using a bluetooth connection with certain Garmin devices, it does actually detect further than 200m without this ANT+ bug, showing them as being at the edge of the distance scale on the right hand side.

When connected with the Garmin Edge 1050, 550, and 850 devices, the RearVue also comes alive with a host of new features. As well as detecting cars behind, it also detects them to the side with the 60˚ FOV. A new Radar screen on Garmin devices shows you where vehicles are relative to you, both distance behind and also which side they are. This is great when taking exits off and across a busy road where you need to move across, or go into different lanes for roundabouts or junctions. It is just a shame that this is limited to specific Garmin devices via their own Bluetooth signalling, effectively gatekeeping these features from other headunits, even lower tier Garmin models.

The radar also does an exceptional job at detecting multiple vehicles behind you at once. Often radar devices can get maybe 2-3 simultaneously, whereas the RearVue was easily able to keep track of 6+ objects. I had a few false positives as well, where there was no vehicle behind, but never a false negative. Cars also didn’t fall out of detection if they maintained the same speed as me, a big problem I had with the Carback. Yet another feature I love with the radar is that it differentiates between different vehicle sizes. Whereas most radars have an orange or red warning for fast approaching or regular speeds, the RearVue also turns red for large vehicles like lorries or buses that can have a greater suction effect on a bike as they pass. It’s a superb feature as even with radar lights I have been shocked before when a lorry has passed close at speed and I’ve felt the bike destabilise. Now there is a warning so you can prepare and be less affected.

In the advanced radar format via Bluetooth to a Garmin Edge 1050, this goes a step further showing different object markers based on a load of facts. Vehicles are represented by a thin small rectangle (bikes and motorbikes), a wider squared rectangle (cars), and a longer thicker rectangle (vans and lorries). As their speed increases they get given a hazard warning. If the vehicle is travelling fast, this turns from orange to red, or if it is a larger vehicle. It does a great job at keeping you more aware of surroundings and so far has been flawless at detecting and differentiating between vehicles.

Another great feature I discovered was when the RearVue is connected to the Garmin Varia app on your phone. You can have the app running passively in the background, and it still connects simultaneously while it is connected to your headunit. I generally ride with a single ear bud in on the left hand side, and realised that the RearVue was sending notifications to my phone which then sent to my ear bud. It’s a useful feature as it means you can run the radar without the need for any form of heads-up display, and without the loud alert that the BBB Signal Radar gives. It still needs an external device, a phone in this case, but it’s a useful feature for commuters.

I will mention that I had some difficulties maintaining the Bluetooth connection between Radar and Edge 1050 whenever the unit switched off and I’m unsure on the reasons. Often it would ‘setup light network’, but not connect the radar itself. I then had to reconnect via ANT+ for the meantime. It appears that it worked more consistently when my phone was also connected via Bluetooth to the RearVue 820, and it would then connect more consistently to the Edge 1050. This of course meant that with an ANT+ connection I missed out on the Advanced Radar capabilities that set this radar apart from the rest of the field.

Value

Value is always going to be somewhat subjective based on the value that you put upon different attributes and technologies. The glaring obvious fact about the new Varia RearVue 820 is that the price has increased dramatically from the old Varia model. Now sitting at £259.99 / $299.99 it is the most expensive standard radar light on the market, save for the Varia RTC715 radar, light, and camera combo.

For reference, the Wahoo Trackr Radar is £179.99/$249.99, the BBB Signal Radar is £119.99, and the Trek CarBack is £169.99/$199.99. Even the old Varia RTL515 is £169.99/199.99, but now can be found on Garmin’s own site for $149.99. The old RTL515 is certainly better value for money for US buyers, while the BBB is exceptional value for UK and EU.

It is a fact that the RearVue has a greater FOV for radar detection, brighter LEDs, and longer radar detection range than many other radar lights. Lumens wise the other key competitors are under 100 lumens maximum, while the Trek CarBack is the only radar with a longer range, but poor FOV and detection retention.

Battery wise the RearVue also struggles, especially when using some of the additional features. These features are shared with some lights like the Wahoo Trackr Radar, but total ranges of the performance of the RearVue does mean it outperforms the Trackr. However, I would argue that it isn’t so much better to justify the price, at least not with other bike computers.

A lot of the advanced radar tracking capabilities are limited to Garmin only devices, and newer ones at that. Testing with an Edge 1050, the performance is notably better and the advanced radar capabilities are exceptional. But when used with a Wahoo Roam 3, those additional capabilities are diminished. This would be the same with older Garmin units, such as the Explore 2 I’ve also used, or Hammerhead devices. It still works as any other radar does, but at that point the price hike seems unjustified.

It’s a lot like Apple accessories that work best with an iPhone. If you have a Garmin Edge 550, 850, or 1050, then the RearVue is likely worth the added cost. Otherwise, there is not enough justification to purchase this over other solidly performing radar light options.

Verdict

The Garmin Varia RearVue 820 is an impressive step up from the previous generation Varia light, and outperforms most other radar lights in pretty much any capacity that matters. It also comes with a superb advanced radar tracking feature, but unfortunately this is locked to use with specific Garmin models and is not available on other devices.

With these new features, and long desired USB C charging, comes a hefty increase in price. This is undoubtedly the best radar light that I have tested, but with many of the advanced features somewhat gatekept to specific Garmin devices, for buyers without those Garmin devices this does not represent great value. If you have a newer Garmin model however, this is an exceptional device that really enhances road safety.

The DT Swiss A 1800 Wheelset may be the brand's most budget offering in the A for Aero line-up, but the performance is not exactly budget. The wheels still feature the superb and bombproof DT Swiss ratchet hub system, for example. However the engagement is limited to 20˚, so accelerating from coasting can feel minutely delayed.

Aero performance is the name of the game with these rims, as it is with all of the best road bike wheels on the market nowadays, and they are not bad. The widths are narrow by today’s standards, but they still roll well across flat and minimally rolling terrain.

The downside of these wheels is the weight. They are no featherweight, but in the rain they have a bad habit of holding water in the rim which makes them even more cumbersome. This can also result in some puddles when you get home.

However for the cost, the performance is not at all bad, and in some ways belies the low price making them an impressive value set of wheels.

Design and specifications

Being the budget offering in DT Swiss’ aero line-up, the A 1800 utilises an aluminium rim, rather than the carbon used in the high performing ARC Dicut 1400 models and up. It is still tubeless, but uses hooked rims, or ‘crotchet tubeless’ as this is called. The rim itself is only available in this 30mm depth, whereas higher end models in this range come with different depth offerings. The rim has a 19.9mm internal width, and 24.75mm external. DT Swiss states that it is designed to be used with the 26mm Continental Aero 111 front tyre and 28mm GP5000 S TR rear for the WTS (Wheel Tyre System) and maximum aero optimisation.

Moving down from the rim, the wheels use DT Aero comp wide straightpull spokes. These are arranged in a 2-cross pattern with 24 front and rear in a 1:1 ratio split. Essentially, 12 spokes either side.

The hub is the lowest spec offering DT Swiss offers of its Ratchet technology. Now the patent has expired, many other wheel brands have moved to this freehub design, due to the lower number of moving parts, enhanced serviceability, and reliability. Some brands have been a bit innovative with how they’ve made this design, but the DT Swiss version remains the standard bearer. This specific hub is the 370 with Ratchet LN 18. This is not as lightweight, features two springs and floating ratchets, and steel rather than ceramic bearings, compared to the DT Swiss 240 and 180 hubs which use the higher end and lighter EXP variation of the ratchet technology with a single spring and a fixed ratchet.

The 370 hubs here use the LN technology which is actually an aftermarket adjustment from standard pawls and bearings to the Ratchet tech, and the lowest tier offering from DT Swiss. The ratchet itself is 18 tooth, so 20 degrees of engagement rather than the standard 10 degrees on the 36 tooth option on the 350 hubs and above. However the Ratchet LN tech does not allow for switching out to a higher tooth system.

The wheels are supplied with tubeless valves, although I was only supplied with one for some reason, and pre-installed tubeless tape. A Shimano or SRAM XDR hub can be specified upon point of purchase.

Performance

As with all test tyres, the first job is setup, and just how easy or difficult that proves to be. With what is a rather conservative internal width of 20mm, it was very easy to fit the Pirelli Cinturato Velo 28mm tyres to the DT Swiss A 1800 rims. The wheels came pre-taped, and the valve was easy to fit and get secure. Strangely only one valve was supplied, plus no rotor lock rings, so I had to use some spares. Tyres were fitted without the need for grippy gloves or levers, and inflated well without too much sealant and just a track pump.

The tyres do certainly sit quite wide, but in line with the fact these tyres always come up significantly wider than advertised; 30.67mm to be exact.

Given that I’ve logged a lot of hours on these tires across different wheels, I have a fairly good idea about what performance differences a change in wheels results in. Over the winter I have used these Pirelli tyres across a range of wheels, from mid-range carbon wheels, to proper budget offerings that cost as much as some sets of tyres.

My initial impressions of the A 1800 were that of pretty reasonable acceleration on the flats. This is likely due to the spoke lacing pattern being one that gives a good level of stiffness and responsiveness when it comes to torsional forces when accelerating or braking. 24 spokes with a two-cross lacing is a solid combination and DT Swiss alloy spokes have always done well with balancing stiffness. The straight pull design also helps them feel very stable in the corners, with no discernible flex in the wheels.

The aero profiling of the wheels also likely helps with a fairly solid fast rolling sensation up to around 35kph. After this, the lack of depth does become noticeable compared to deeper section wheels. But the trade-off with deeper section alloy wheels is a significant increase in weight.

Weight, unfortunately, is an area where these wheels do struggle. Both for an obvious reason, and one less obvious one. Firstly, 1810g is not light for a wheelset, especially a performance one. These are more budget friendly offerings, but they are still heavy. This is most perceptible on inclines, anything beyond 3-4% gradient becomes a tangible slog to accelerate these wheels. Admittedly, they are not a wheelset that is necessarily aimed at racing, more a solid set to get you around. In that regard, they do very well, and I am judging them against more premium offerings.

However, there is a slight flaw that can make them even heavier than the cheapest wheels I use for winter training, the bog standard Shimano RS line. When riding in the rain, the DT Swiss A 1800 has a bad habit of getting water into the rim, which then is not that easily removed. I noticed this when getting back, hanging the bike up, and hearing water sloshing in the rim when spinning the wheel. I noticed it again when I realised there was a puddle under the bike when the hole that can let the water out found its way to the bottom of the wheel in the stand. It was a significant amount of water that has found its way into the rim, and this in turn adds a good amount of rotational weight. This is likely why, during wet rides, I found these wheels to be even more arduous to accelerate up inclines than the 2kg Shimano RS wheelset. You can drain the wheels, but you don’t want to have to do that while riding out in the rain ideally.

Another element that is noticeable is the reduced number of teeth in the ratchet hub leading to slightly delayed acceleration perceptions. A 20˚ engagement rate is not massive in the scheme of things, but it was noticeable all the same. When riding at a constant speed with pressure applied to the pedals it has no impact. The rest of the hub performs superbly, and after around 1500km of using these across a fairly bleak 2026 January and February, the hub is in great condition with the bearings front and rear running smoothly. I’m a big fan of the DT Swiss Ratchet hubs, as is every other wheel brand as they adopted the technology as soon as the patent ran out. It’s simple, easier to maintain, and easier to replace parts if needed. It really boosts these wheels’ performance as a solid wheel to get you through most rides.

Value

I have bemoaned these wheels for the overall weight and lack of higher speed aero performance, but that is compared to wheelsets that start at around £1000/$1200. For just £409.99/$592 the DT Swiss A 1800 are a wheelset that has enough performance to not detract from riding (the Shimano RS wheels are what I would call get-round wheels and are not fun), but also rugged enough to be a bit more use-and-forget than something more race focussed.

I’ve spent a lot of time riding the Shimano 105 wheelset, it’s lighter, more responsive, but more expensive. I’ve also had to replace the bearings more frequently as poor weather eats away at the internals. That is where the DT Swiss wheels perform very well, I never feel I have to worry about any components of them struggling after being used in heavy rain, through flooded roads, or through salt and grit laden snow slush.

There are cheaper wheels, but frankly they feel cheaper, and are either not as fun to ride or will need more maintenance in the foul weather they are likely to be used. I would like the DT Swiss A 1800 to not store water the way they do, and for faster paced rides the aero performance is limited, but for just riding, and not racing or doing rapid accelerations, they do a very good job. They are your classic bomb-proof training wheels that can cope with the winter without being expensive enough that you’ll be worried about them. Paired with the longevity that you won’t need to replace them after a foul winter.

Verdict

I like the DT Swiss A 1800 wheelset. It does a very good job and exceeds in the price bracket that it occupies. It is, of course, not as spritely as lighter sets of wheels, or as fast as deeper options, but it also costs significantly less and has impressive resilience against foul weather.

My only genuine gripe is the fact the rim holds water, adding to the weight and leaking at times around the house/shed. A 20mm internal width and slowish hub engagement don’t really make a big difference, and for riding at 20-35kph the wheels do well. At higher speeds or in competitive events I would want more from them, but that’s where I’d get a higher end set of race wheels. For training, riding worry-free, and not spending heaps on a do-it-all set of training wheels, these are exceptionally good.