On test: Panache summer clothing, May 5, 2009

Superb summer kit

Panache is a new name in cycling clothing

Panache Cyclewear is a fresh face in the cycling apparel market but with features, design and construction that rivals some bigger names. Cyclingnews technical editor James Huang suits up and finds an excellent - albeit pricey - alternative to the big names when the heat comes down hard and heavy.

Panache Cyclewear's Eleven Bib Short and Eleven Jersey are purpose-built for scorching summer heat. The jersey is made with a mesh body - and even-lighter mesh for the side panels and armpits - while the shorts feature a Lycra Power body and mesh side panels with additional perforated panels down by the leg openings and for the bib section.

Out in the heat, the combination allows a considerable amount of cooling air to flow right through and the mesh construction lends a decidedly light feel - just what you want when the sweat starts to flow. If that still isn't enough, there is a full-length zipper on hand as well.

On the flipside, this is definitely a hot weather-only outfit when worn alone. Unlike other most other shorts and jerseys on the market, the Panache Eleven kit is so meshy and airy that additional layers are an absolute requirement for temperatures significantly below 'Africa hot'.

Fit is appropriately snug-but-not-too-snug feel on this tester's 1.73m, 71kg (5' 8", 157lb) build with virtually no extra material flapping about in the breeze. At the same time, it also isn't at all restrictive, even around the shoulders while in the drops which is where some others fall short. Potential buyers should be aware though that the jersey cut was off by a full size so we ended up with a small instead of the usual medium - the proportions were still correct however so aside from having an 'S' instead of an 'M' on the tag, there were no issues.

Gripper tape is sewn to the end of the panel

Overall, we'd still say that the Eleven jersey and shorts are somewhat of a Euro-American hybrid though uber-skinny climber types will probably still prefer something a tad tighter.

The jersey is rather reasonably priced at US$120 but the US$240 shorts fall squarely in the premium end of the pricing spectrum - well into Assos territory in fact - and will likely be a tough sell given Panache's newcomer status and unproven label. Thankfully, you at least get true 'made in Italy' quality for both items plus some particularly well thought-out details on the shorts.

For example, rather than sew a separate layer of gripper tape on the leg openings, Panache owner and designer Don Powell simply stitches it on to the end of the panel to minimize overall thickness on the front half. In addition, the grippers themselves are little more than a sparse array of extra-shallow silicone dots for a feel that is noticeably freer than most conventional banded construction.

On the back half of the leg, a paper-thin layer of silicone is laminated on to the panel itself and whole thing is cut clean for the utmost in minimalism. About the only downside we've discovered over nearly half a year of testing is that the laminated gripper section is best left to line rather than machine drying lest you run the risk of peeling at the edges.

Open mesh straps add to the impressive ventilation.

Long-term comfort is superb as well thanks to a Cytech EIT (Elastic Interface Technology) stretch chamois with just the right amount of padding and coverage. Interestingly, Powell admits that he actively chooses one of Cytech's mid-range inserts, preferring the supposed extra elasticity that comes with stitched - rather than laminated - construction. We honestly couldn't notice the difference but we're not about to argue after logging countless hours without a single saddle sore to speak of.

The jersey features a gripper-infused hem to keep the waist in place, a nicely low-cut collar, and a convenient cable pass-through and internal loops for routing a radio or iPod cable. To preserve breathability and minimize fabric overlap, Panache also builds the top two thirds of the pockets with open mesh. None of it is especially groundbreaking but it's all very well executed - something not everyone can claim.

About the only downsides we've discovered apart from the shorts' cost and somewhat fragile grippers is the somewhat derivative styling. Though no one brand can lay claim to black-and-white, the Eleven jersey in particular still strongly reminds us of a certain well established British brand that rhymes with 'half a'.

And now for something a little different

The Panache Arm Screens look somewhat odd

Powell also sent us off back in August with a pair of 'Arm Screens', which are essentially arm warmers but built with the same open mesh material as on the lower part of the shorts. The idea is to keep the sun's rays off of your skin in hot weather while still allowing airflow.

We were admittedly skeptical but were pleasantly surprised to find that they do actually work - though perhaps we should have expected this given the concept's prevalence in desert cultures. Cooling air noticeably goes right through, sweat is quickly wicked away from the skin, and the white material tends to reflect sunlight. However, hazier and more humid conditions still found us preferring bare skin and we had to deal with a few jeers from our riding buddies regardless (plus a rather erratic tan).

Though pleasingly effective, US$45 is still simply too much to ask for these especially given the simple construction.

Left of center

All in all we're quite impressed with Panache's freshman effort here. The cut and fit are comparable to far more experienced brands, the Italian construction is top-notch, and we found no shortcomings in materials whatsoever. So long as you can get past the heady price tag for some items in the range, this is a very good way to set yourself apart from the mainstream without sacrificing performance to do so.

Panache Eleven Bib Short
Price: US$240
Pros: Excellent racer-appropriate cut, ultra-comfy Cytech chamois, outstanding ventilation and breathability in hot temperatures, free-feeling laminated grippers, 'made in Italy' quality
Cons: Very expensive, laminated grippers don't take well to machine drying
Cyclingnews rating:

Panache Eleven Jersey
Price: US$120
Pros: Perfectly tailored with nary a swatch of excess fabric, lightweight mesh construction ideal for scorching temperatures, internal wire routing for radio/MP3, silicone waist grippers, made in Italy
Cons: Somewhat derivative styling, try-before-you-buy sizing, extra layers required for anything less than summer temps
Cyclingnews rating:

Panache Arm Screens
Price: US$45
Pros: Works as advertised in keeping sun's heat off skin, open mesh fabric still allows airflow
Cons: Too expensive for what they are
Cyclingnews rating:

More information: www.panachecyclewear.com

Photography

For a thumbnail gallery of these images, click here

Images by James Huang/Cyclingnews.com

• Panache is a new name in cycling clothing but their Eleven jersey and bib shorts are impressive performers in hot weather.
• The black-and-white styling is classic but also somewhat derivative.
• Side panels on the jersey are so meshy that they're nearly see-through.
• Gripper tape is sewn to the end of the panel to minimize overall thickness on the outside of the leg while the inner half is simply laminated with rubber.
• Open mesh straps add to the impressive ventilation.
• Three standard-sized rear pockets use mesh upper sections so as not to decrease overall jersey breathability.
• Panache use a well-shaped Cytech stretch chamois with just the right amount of padding and smooth seams that don't irritate even after hours in the saddle.
• The Panache Arm Screens look somewhat odd but are surprisingly effective at keeping the sun's rays off of your skin to help you stay cool - at least in dry and sunny conditions.