Topics: Fitting a new seat, Diet and weight, Returning to competitive racing, Sore hamstrings - bike fit issues.
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Problems with fitting a new seat
I am a 53-year-old cat. 2 rider and have been racing for 30 years. One problem I have never had, until recently, is post ride bilateral ‘charley horses’ and calf, sometimes even foot arch cramping.
I don't think this is an electrolyte or hydration issue. Several months ago I began experimenting with the "sit bone" seats (Selle SMP and ISM) to be a little more friendly on "the boys" and better accommodate my rotated and dropped sacrum. I do feel like I am better planted on the seat and sitting straighter in general but it feels like I have a little more weight shifted forward and my quads, and to a lesser degree my hamstrings, are working harder while my gluts are not as much. I set my knee to spindle distance the same as I have always had. Any ideas or thoughts? Is this an inherent issue with these types of seats?
Steve Hogg says:
I had to Google "charley horses" to find out it is U.S. slang for cramps. If you are convinced it is not hydration or nutritional (magnesium etc?), then it probably has something to do with the seats you are experimenting with. Can you restore your old position and seat as a starting point?
If so, have a look at this post as it is good advice for anyone experimenting with their bike position.
Then start making changes one at a time. I assume that the SMPs and ISM seats you have tried have altered your position in space above the bike. Your are convinced that your knee is in the same relationship to the pedal that you are used but this doesn't mean you are in the same position on the bike that you are used to. The Knee / Pedal relationship can be the same with differing seat heights and setbacks. Based on what you have said, I'd suggest that your experimenting has left your seat too far forward and and too high.
What I would suggest doing is going back to your original position. Then read the post I've linked to above, and the information below.
Basic instructions for fitting a different seat
1. Lock up the bike in an indoor trainer and use a carpenter’s level to make sure that the bike is leveled between axle centres. This is important as everything you do will only be accurate if the bike is level and stable. In addition to the carpenters level, you will need a steel rule 300 mm long and a marker pen
2. Measure the flat section of the seat rail and use the marker pen to mark the midpoint in the length of the flat section
3. Measure from the flat section to the top of the seat directly above the point you have marked at the midpoint of the seat rail. Record that measurement as seat depth
4. Lay the new seat upside down on top of the old seat so that the curves forward of the seat shoulders match up as closely as possible. The seat shoulders are the most forward part of the widest part of the rear of the seat. The curves are where the seat narrows as it comes forward from the shoulders. Match up the profile of the curves as best as can be done.
5. Note whether the nose of the new seat layed upside down on the old one is forward or rearward of the nose of the old seat currently fitted. Record the difference as seat nose difference. A plus number means that the new seat’s nose is forward of the old seat. A minus number means that the new seat is rearward of the old one.
6. Measure from the centre of the bottom bracket (centre of rotation of the cranks) to the top of the old seat fitted to the bike. Make sure that the measuring edge of the tape passes through the mark on the midpoint of the seat rail. Record that measurement as seat height.
7. Measure from the tip of the nose of the old seat to the back of the handlebar. Make sure that the front wheel is facing straight ahead. Record this measurement as nose to handlebar
8. Remove old seat and fit new seat. Make sure that you mark the midpoint of the seat rail. Fit the new seat at the same seat height as the old seat making sure that you measure seat height in the same way. Look at your seat nose difference measurement. If it is a plus number, move the new seat so that it’s nose to handlebar measurement is that much less than that of the old seat. If it is a minus number, make sure that the new seat’s nose to handlebar measurement is that much more than that of the old seat.
9. Recheck seat height and then recheck nose to handlebar distance. This is as close as you will get by measurement. Any further adjustment must be done by feel. This method will only work as accurately as the measurements you take. Even then, I am depending on you to have enough awareness of how you should feel when pedaling to recognise that feeling when you duplicate it on the new seat.
Diet and weight
I am a relatively new road bike rider (about 3 years of serious training / riding) and during the spring / summer / early fall I currently ride 4 days a week averaging 120+ miles per week. My typical ride is 30-40 miles long and I will occasionally do a 60+ mile ride. During the winters I tend ride indoors and do mostly speed / hill / interval work 3-4 days a week for about an hour.
My question relates to diet and weight. I have struggled to stay down at my winter weight ( 167 lbs) despite the longer ride and work out times (currently I float around 170+). I have not changed my diet much if at all (intake 2000-2200 calories per day). I am looking to start racing next year (at a very amateur level of course) and I would like drop some more weight. My question is this - what do you recommend for someone to do for their diet to help lost more weight? Do you think it has more to do with the exercise being longer endurance rides vs. short interval rides? Any diet plans that you might recommend? Thanks
Pamela Hinton says:
You are really asking two questions: 1) Why can’t I maintain my winter weight during the rest of the year when my training volume is increased?; and 2) How should I change my diet to lose weight?
Regarding your difficulty maintaining your winter weight despite the increased training volume, keep in mind that we are talking about a very small difference in body weight (167 vs. 170 lbs, i.e., less than 2%!). Recognize that body weight and body composition are not the same thing. In other words, you don’t know whether the increase in body weight is due to gains in muscle, fat or a combination. It is quite possible that, in reality, you are relatively leaner now due to a gain in lean body mass since the winter.
Before I give anyone advice on how to lose weight, I always ask them to consider whether their weight loss goal or "ideal" body weight is realistic. Trying to achieve a body weight or percent body fat that is too low and/or cannot be sustained will ultimately have undesirable effects on performance and health. You didn’t provide your height, so I cannot determine whether losing a few pounds would leave you at a healthy body weight. However, at 2,000-2,200 kcal/day, your energy intake is quite low, making it difficult to consume a nutritionally adequate diet. In my experience, you will be much more successful at losing the weight and maintaining a lower weight if you focus more on your training and less on "dieting".
The First Law of Thermodynamics applies to human beings, so to lose weight, you have to create an energy deficit. A negative energy balance of 500 kcal per day will result in the loss of about one pound per week. If you lose weight too rapidly (<2 pounds/ week) than you risk losing muscle mass, which is obviously something you want to avoid.
To create an energy deficit you can decrease your energy intake and/or increase your energy output. Being aware of portion size is a great place to start to decrease your energy intake. There are other small changes that you can make to your diet that aren’t likely to have a negative impact on your training. You want to limit your intake of foods that have a high energy density, i.e., a lot of kcals per volume, and that are low in other nutrients (like vitamins and minerals). A good example of this type of food is the fat that we add to our food (e.g., butter on bread, dressing on salad, etc.) I am by no means suggesting that you eliminate these foods from your diet.
Rather, simply decrease the amount that you consume. For example, by using one tablespoon of dressing instead of two, you cut out 100 kcal.
This a very small decrease in your overall energy intake, but over the course of 4-5 weeks would result in a loss of one pound of body fat. You should also pay attention to the energy you consume as beverages. Soda, fruit "juice," and beer have about 150-200 calories per 12-ounce serving, and most of that energy comes from simple sugar (or alcohol). You could easily reduce your energy intake by eliminating these "empty" calories.
To increase the "energy out" half of the energy-balance equation you could increase the frequency or duration of your exercise session to expend more calories. You might also try increasing the intensity of your workouts by doing hill repeats or intervals once a week. The high-intensity efforts (>85% of max) cause your metabolic rate to stay elevated for several hours after the workout. This increase in your metabolic rate by 10% is equivalent to approximately 200 extra calories expended during the 24 hours after the high-intensity session. It takes an energy deficit of 3500 kcal to lose one pound of body fat. You could accomplish this by substituting a high-intensity workout for 8 weeks.
Don’t lose sight of your ultimate objective - which is to excel at cycling - as you try to drop a few pounds. Keep focused on your training, which is just as important as your weight, in preparing to race next year.
Returning to competitive cycling
After 4-5 years off cycling completely, and a further year off of racing, I've finally jumped back in and bought a race-worthy bike to see me back into cycling. I raced throughout high school for several years but hung it up my first year of college due to some crashes, an unrelated surgery, time constraints, and too many close calls on the road. I've missed it ever since, but only now, at 25, have I found the time, serious motivation, and money to get back into it.
I'm in relatively good shape from a healthy amount of running (20-35miles per week) the last year or so, but nothing I would consider competitive form, let alone anything worth much on the bike for that matter. I have a general time frame outlined in my mind wherein I train the rest of the summer and fall (without any thought of racing this year), continue throughout the winter, and finally resume racing in the spring. This will give me a good 5-7 months to build some serious fitness. Does this sound about right to you? Do you think I'm rushing it--or could I move things forward even? And here's the thing: for the most amount of fun and for my own motivation, I want to be competitive again right from the first races in the early spring--really hit the ground running so to speak. I don't plan on hanging at the back for dear life for my first few races back like when I started out at 14. What sort of plan should I be looking at for the next few months to get me set?
Scott Saifer says:
You are on the right track with the idea of training through the rest of this summer and right up to the 2012 races. You need a training plan, which is more than I can describe here in adequate detail. I'd suggest you get yourself a book or work with a coach. Very briefly, you should do a few months of base and then start increasing intensity gradually with one month that includes long sub-lactic threshold intervals a couple of days per week, one month that includes shorter LT intervals a couple of days per week, and then one month that includes either club rides, races that you enter for training, or supra-threshold efforts, sprints, all-out hill repeats and the like one or two days per week. I usually suggest that people use racing to put the finishing touches on racing fitness so that they get a dose of tactical education along with their high-end fitness, but if you want to be hot off the blocks, you'll have to develop your high end before you start racing.
Sore hamstrings - a bike fit issue?
I recently did a 7x3 VO2 max workout and my hamstrings and calf's hurt for days after. I then started to study bike fitting and found your site. The first thing I did was to check my cleat position. I was 10mm too far back!
I had a Retul fit two years ago. The fitter said he did not believe in KOP and moved me back (aft). I never checked my cleats. My legs also get tired after a FTP interval workout but not as bad as they do with VO2 max intervals. I did your balance test and can do it but it is very hard. I am comfortable on the bike and can do 4/5 hr. rides. I think my saddle height is good.
Should I try to move my saddle forward 3-5mm? Do you recommend anyone in USA, Texas for a good fit? Could the hamstring and calf soreness be anything else?
Thank you for any help. All fitters within 100 miles of me use the KOP method.
Steve Hogg says:
I agree with your Retul guy about KOPS but struggle to understand how a quality bike fit can ignore your feet!.
Too far rearward a cleat position will hinder your ability to sprint. However, the rearward cleat position shouldn't create a problem for your hamstrings and calves unless either:
1. Your seat is too high
2. Your seat is too far back
3. A combination of both.
If either 1, 2 or 3 applies to you, and based on what you have told me, it is likely, then yes, you will have problems passing the balance test. The most common positional mistake I see is too high a seat height. You mentioned you'd been to our site, so read the posts on seat height; and this one.
Apply that info, and see how you get on.
As to competent bike fitters in Texas; there is only one gent that I would suggest; Jerry Gerlich at Castle Hill Cycles in Austin. He is way ahead of run of the mill bike fitters and will do a good job.